(CraftBeerPi) - Convert my Gas Herms System to 240V 50A Electric Herms

[kirbcheck]

I've been brewing almost 10 years (all but the first 2 brews have been all grain). For the last 6 years I've been brewing on a 3 Vessel Gas Herms system utilizing 2 Keggles and a large Igloo cooler. I'd like to convert this to an all electric system. During a remodel I've installed a 240V/50A line (6-2 w/ ground) direct to my workshop with the intention of converting my current system to electric (Will make winter brewing more tolerable to say the least). While my hopes are to eventually become more and more automated with a BruControl setup, I am choosing to start out with the CraftBeerPi setup because it makes the most sense for me right now. This being said, I could use plenty of guidance. So please be patient with me as I work through this conversion.

This is the diagram for connecting straight to the Pi's I/O's.

#1 - Is a Spa panel absolutely necessary? Wouldn't it be less complicated to just swap the 50A Breaker with a 50A GFCI breaker at the subpanel?

#2 - I plan on using a 5500 Watt element along the lines of:

https://www.amazon.com/Rheem-SP10869PH-5500-watt-Resistored-Stainless/dp/B009AX2VAK
This being the case should my SSR be rated at 50A or should I use a 30A SSR since a 5500 Watt element is using less than 25A at 240V?

https://www.amazon.com/Fotek-Solid-Module-24-480VAC-SSR-50DA/dp/B08DF76YWD
I know I've read to avoid this brand specifically, but it was the quickest to show up on Amazon when I made a search for 50A breakers.

#3 - My current pump is 120V. What's the best way to wire in a 120V outlet?

#4 - What gauge wire should I use?

#5 - To those who have build a CBP setup, what do you know now, that you wish you would've known before starting?

 

[RufusBrewer]

The earliest in the path you can insert a GFCI, the better and more safe. The GFCI will protect the cabling along path from the panel through your system. Only down aide is of the inconvenience of walking to the panel. If you tripped your GFCI, a short walk and tike to think about what went wrong might be a good thing.

50 amp on an SSR is a maximum rating. You can use it on a 30 amp circuit without issue. In fact over rating an SSR is a good idea. Once you are willing to absorb the additional cost. I would rather have a high quality 30 amp SSR over a cheap and suspect 50 amp brand.

 

[doug293cz]

With 6-2+gnd, you don't have a neutral, so there is no 120V available for the pump without:

1. Adding in a 2:1 step down transformer. If you do this, then you will need to add separate GFCI protection after the transformer, as the transformer isolates the secondary from the GFCI protected primary side.
2. Adding a separate 120V power input to the control panel.
3. Running the pump from a circuit totally separate from the control panel.

16AWG wire is enough for Chugger type pumps, which pull about 1.4A. The 16AWG wire should be protected with a 10A fuse/breaker.

You should use a ULWD (ultra low watt density) element in your boil kettle to avoid wort scorching. The element you link is medium watt density.

Your schematics are not legible, so can't comment on them.

Brew on

 

[spittybug]

#1 - Is a Spa panel absolutely necessary? Wouldn't it be less complicated to just swap the 50A Breaker with a 50A GFCI breaker at the subpanel?
_____I went with a 30amp breaker in the box since I built my panel to never allow both elements to fire simultaneously.

#2 - I plan on using a 5500 Watt element along the lines of:
This being the case should my SSR be rated at 50A or should I use a 30A SSR since a 5500 Watt element is using less than 25A at 240V?
I know I've read to avoid this brand specifically, but it was the quickest to show up on Amazon when I made a search for 50A breakers.

_____DON'T go Fotek in my opinion. I had a couple fail closed, resulting in run away temperatures. I use more expensive, heavy duty Teledyne Lars with big heatsinks that get really hot. Hit me up if you can't find one elsewhere, I may have one to sell. Go with the low density 5500w elements unless you want scorched wort.

#3 - My current pump is 120V. What's the best way to wire in a 120V outlet?
_____As others have mentioned, to get 120v you need 3 wire. Each hot is 120v, but 180* opposite in phase. Hot to hot gives you 240, but one hot to ground gives you 120v.

#4 - What gauge wire should I use?
_____My runs for the elements are 12/3 for the 23ft or so from my panel, overhead and down to the kettles.

#5 - To those who have build a CBP setup, what do you know now, that you wish you would've known before starting?
_____Avoid RPi? I had mine all done with RPi and found I spent more time tracking down computer/monitor/connectivity/software issues than I did brewing. I finally ripped it all apart and went with 4 controllers: PID for HLT, Auber boil controller for BK, simple Inkbird temp controller for mash tun (turns pump on/off to herms coil) and another Inkbird temp controller to act as a thermometer for herms output and to provide a safety lockout should the herms temp get too high. A few buttons/lights/switches and voila, no more fighting RPi.

 

[doug293cz]

...

#3 - My current pump is 120V. What's the best way to wire in a 120V outlet?
_____As others have mentioned, to get 120v you need 3 wire. Each hot is 120v, but 180* opposite in phase. Hot to hot gives you 240, but one hot to ground gives you 120v.

#4 - What gauge wire should I use?
_____My runs for the elements are 12/3 for the 23ft or so from my panel, overhead and down to the kettles.

...

No, to get 120V you need 4 wires: hot1, hot2, neutral, and ground. Hot1 to hot2 is 240V, and either hot to neutral gives 120V. Hot to ground is a code violation.

12AWG is good to 20A. A 5500W element draws 23A, so you need to run 10AWG wire to meet code.

Brew on

 

[spittybug]

No, to get 120V you need 4 wires: hot1, hot2, neutral, and ground. Hot1 to hot2 is 240V, and either hot to neutral gives 120V. Hot to ground is a code violation.

12AWG is good to 20A. A 5500W element draws 23A, so you need to run 10AWG wire to meet code.

Brew on

You are correct, bad wording on my part. Should have said hot to neutral. I also wasn't clear that for the previously mentioned GFCI's to function, there must obviously be a ground wire too.