Corny Keg ID?

[The Original Slim]

Anyone familiar with this style single handle keg? I'm mainly interested to know if I can order a standard seal replacement kit, and if all the parts are interchangeable? I'm assuming little else is different...capacity and.or strength.

 

[Deadalus]

It's a ball lock keg, the lid is oval, and a standard seal replacement kit should work fine. You wouldn't need the extra post o-rings that are provided as sometimes they include o-rings for both ball lock and pin lock posts. I have a three gallon with that handle style and base but it is in my keezer at the moment so I can't read the manufacturer. The pressure relief valve on mine is different but my lid might not be original as yours appear to both be the same. I think mine might be a 7-up keg. I did replace the seals on it when I got it.

I don't think your poppet seals will be replaceable. If you need new poppets you can seek out original style poppets or replace with universal poppets.

 

[day_trippr]

Might want to replace the lid on the left keg. It's missing part of the manual PRV...

Cheers!

 

[balrog]

I'd replace both lids ($20 ea) personally, but std o-ring set will fit everything. I have a couple like that but the handle style is not unique to a single manufacturer.

[edit: I got 3 similarly handled ones from a buddy, and one was a non-standard "race track" lid instead of the usual oval; all three had similar handles, all were ball lock; I did not keep the racetrack one]

 

[The Original Slim]

It's a ball lock keg, the lid is oval, and a standard seal replacement kit should work fine. You wouldn't need the extra post o-rings that are provided as sometimes they include o-rings for both ball lock and pin lock posts. I have a three gallon with that handle style and base but it is in my keezer at the moment so I can't read the manufacturer. The pressure relief valve on mine is different but my lid might not be original as yours appear to both be the same. I think mine might be a 7-up keg. I did replace the seals on it when I got it.

I don't think your poppet seals will be replaceable. If you need new poppets you can seek out original style poppets or replace with universal poppets.

That's good information Deadalus. I had no idea about the poppets, so I'm glad you mentioned that. I was a little concerned that the tanks might be outdated, and they probably are, but at least serviceable.

Might want to replace the lid on the left keg. It's missing part of the manual PRV...

Cheers!

I have considered doing that. I probably should try to get a good cleaning in while it's still possible to do it outside.

I'd replace both lids ($20 ea) personally, but std o-ring set will fit everything. I have a couple like that but the handle style is not unique to a single manufacturer.

[edit: I got 3 similarly handled ones from a buddy, and one was a non-standard "race track" lid instead of the usual oval; all three had similar handles, all were ball lock; I did not keep the racetrack one]

I'm just hoping that they will hold pressure and get me by while I figure out my style of brewing. These didn't cost me much to buy, and it's all an investment in happiness anyway, right?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I'm late to the party here but I have six of kegs exactly like you have. Single handle, oval lid ball lock Cornelius-Spartan 5-gallon kegs. I also have a three gallon keg, the same. I've had mine for close to twenty years and all of them work great, easily rebuilt with gasket sets easily found on the web.

You should get many years out of yours too!

 

[redrocker652002]

I have one of those, or at least it looks similar. I have not dived into it yet, but it does not have a lid and I am sure the Orings will need to be replaced. I am going to dig it out though, as I am restricted to height in my kegerator and that might be one that I can use now.

 

[Deadalus]

I have one of those, or at least it looks similar. I have not dived into it yet, but it does not have a lid and I am sure the Orings will need to be replaced. I am going to dig it out though, as I am restricted to height in my kegerator and that might be one that I can use now.

Ball locks are generally about the same height and the width generally about the same. The variation is small. Duotight QDs are lower profile might get you more space. A pin lock keg is inches shorter than a ball lock but about an inch wider and may be an option for a specific fit.

 

[mac_1103]

My guess is that the poppets and posts will give you more trouble than the lids. If you're lucky and they seal the way they are then don't mess with them except to replace the o-rings.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I have one of those, or at least it looks similar. I have not dived into it yet, but it does not have a lid and I am sure the Orings will need to be replaced. I am going to dig it out though, as I am restricted to height in my kegerator and that might be one that I can use now.

My suggestion when you get used kegs is to clean them very thoroughly and replace all of the gaskets. If you know for sure that the previous owner kept them in good working order, you could skip some of the gaskets. Use your best judgement on what you should do. If you're not sure it's good piece of mind to know you replaced everything.

I just measured the height of my Pepsi kegs and both the single handle style and the dual are 25" high. That's to the top of each handle.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Here's a comparison on the Duotight and regular post connectors. I like that the Duotight line comes straight out rather than the slight angle, that might give you better access with limited head space in your kegerator.

 

[The Original Slim]

I'm really happy I posted the question. I've learned a lot on just this simple question.

There's Flaggons of good information here.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I'm really happy I posted the question. I've learned a lot on just this simple question.

There's Flaggons of good information here.

That's what we're all here for, to learn, share knowledge and ideas!

Glad you were part of it!

 

[day_trippr]

That's what we're all here for, to learn, share knowledge and ideas!

Nah. I'm here for the chicks

Cheers!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Nah. I'm here for the chicks

Cheers!

Not a surprise . . .

 

[balrog]

I'm here for the jokes.

 

[Broken Crow]

Nah. I'm here for the chicks

Cheers!

 

[shavy]

Glad I read this today . . . I have a 3 gal tank with a broken handle. I’ve searched the web with no luck trying to find a replacement handle. I may have to get some really good epoxy to try to repair it; would rather get a new handle though. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[IslandLizard]

I may have to get some really good epoxy to try to repair it

Epoxy won't fix it. There's too much weight hanging on that repaired crack. Epoxy doesn't adhere to other materials very well either.

You could fabricate a (stainless) steel brace going all the way to the other end, through that groove on the top of the plastic handle, with a mounting ear on each end where the mounting bolts go through. All that weight and stress is then transferred directly to the ears and mounting bolts. The plastic makes it just easier on the hands for holding/lifting.

 

[balrog]

Glad I read this today . . . I have a 3 gal tank with a broken handle. I’ve searched the web with no luck trying to find a replacement handle. I may have to get some really good epoxy to try to repair it; would rather get a new handle though. Any thoughts? Thanks.

As you have a screw there, I'd be pseudo-inclined to fashion a metal, or wire, or fiberglass, or epoxy with wire, strap-ish thing that would be screwed at both ends.

Likely, however, having done so, it would "work" until it didn't. But that's me.

 

[IslandLizard]

As you have a screw there, I'd be pseudo-inclined to fashion a metal, or wire, or fiberglass, or epoxy with wire, strap-ish thing that would be screwed at both ends.

You're onto something!
A (braided) flexible steel wire attached to both bolts, with some plastic or epoxy in the middle, to provide an easy-on-the-hands handle.

 

[shavy]

Epoxy won't fix it. There's too much weight hanging on that repaired crack. Epoxy doesn't adhere to other materials very well either.

You could fabricate a (stainless) steel brace going all the way to the other end, through that groove on the top of the plastic handle, with a mounting ear on each end where the mounting bolts go through. All that weight and stress is then transferred directly to the ears and mounting bolts. The plastic makes it just easier on the hands for holding/lifting.

Thanks. I appreciate the help.

 

[redrocker652002]

I got up this morning and thought, hey I have one of those. It fits in my ferm fridge, so I thought I would try and rebuild it. New Orings on the posts and new poppets thanks to the box of stuff Bbeer me gave me and viola. I used a lid from another keg that I still need to rebuild and a new Oring on the lid. Held like a champ. Now, a good cleaning and sanitizing and I have another keg that I can use. That makes 5 good ones and 4 or 5 that I need to rebuild or buy new parts for. LOL.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Glad I read this today . . . I have a 3 gal tank with a broken handle. I’ve searched the web with no luck trying to find a replacement handle. I may have to get some really good epoxy to try to repair it; would rather get a new handle though. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Here's an idea for your broken handle, look at places that sell used corny kegs and ask if they have any junk kegs. Those would be ones they can't sell as usable kegs, either all dented or never will hold pressure.

In the past I have seen ones for sale for parts. Maybe even someone here has something, also maybe a home brew club.

Don't give up hope finding a good replacement handle. A fabricated metal one is a great idea, maybe one carved from wood.

 

[mashdar]

Those look like a-type ball lock fittings. IIRC the liquid line is a different thread than the more common b-type (the ones with taller hex part on bottom). Just FYI if replacing the fittings for better poppet seal or something.

 

[seatazzz]

I've got three of those same style kegs, bought from a friend of a friend a few years ago. One has a slightly bent opening and hasn't been used, the other two just needed new o-rings, posts, and one lid. I like them, they're slightly lighter than the rubber-handled kegs, and easier to attach disconnects with not a lot of headspace.

 

[The Original Slim]

As a total newbie, this does confuse me a bit (actually a lot)...I was just wondering if I could simply replace the posts (valves) with later model posts, thereby avoiding any problems down the road with wore out or damaged poppets as mac_1103 suggested. Thanks to OakIskandBrewery for the advice on the post connectors too.

 

[mashdar]

You can replace the post fittings, but the threading will be different between A type and the more common B type.

Type A will usually be labeled as such, whereas Type B may not indicate a type. You can tell the difference by the height of the hex bit at the bottom. (A type have a shorter hex height for a wrench.)

After looking at this link, AEB has som A-looking B types, so the plot thickens?
https://www.kegoutlet.com/how-can-i-tell-what-type-of-posts-will-fit-on-my-corny-keg.html
If the liquid post threads are too big for the gas fitting (don't force it!), and liquid fitting is loose on gas post threads, it's probably A type.

 

[mac_1103]

After looking at this link, AEB has som A-looking B types, so the plot thickens?

The plot does indeed thicken. The issue I've run into is with 19/32-18 posts that have too many threads. They hit the top of the keg before they compress the dip tube o-rings. I just ordered a set of those AEB "A-looking B types" to see if they'll solve this problem.

 

[mashdar]

The plot does indeed thicken. The issue I've run into is with 19/32-18 posts that have too many threads. They hit the top of the keg before they compress the dip tube o-rings. I just ordered a set of those AEB "A-looking B types" to see if they'll solve this problem.

I am fairly new to kegging, but I feel like both Torpedo and Kegland fittings basically bottom out. It feels gnarly every time I tighten one, but I figured it was just me. I can totally see a 1-2 thread difference causing issues.

 

[The Original Slim]

I'm late to the party here but I have six of kegs exactly like you have. Single handle, oval lid ball lock Cornelius-Spartan 5-gallon kegs. I also have a three gallon keg, the same. I've had mine for close to twenty years and all of them work great, easily rebuilt with gasket sets easily found on the web.

You should get many years out of yours too!

I was able to give these kegs a pretty good looking over,and it appears that 4 of the 5 I have are also Cornelius-Spartan.I removed the lid and removed the gas and liquid tubes (this one has a straight liquid pick-up tube). It looks like it has never been used as both tubes had a dark sticky residue on them. Obviously VERY old syrup. They also look to have been stored outside as several had old soil stuck on the bottom and the seals on both posts looks to be near disintegration from sun and weather exposure.The 5th keg looks ever so slightly different, and that is mainly a maybe 1/4" height difference. I'll have to give it a good cleaning and get the stickers off it.Maybe I can ID it then.I'm guessing it is a Corny-Sparton too, but that will be determined later.

Several of the posts do look like they have maybe been mishandled. (dented and scratched up etc). I'm assuming these see some rough service during their lifetime.

Any idea what I should be looking for in the event I need to replace some of these posts?

I need to remove a couple of the posts and look for the ID like mashdar and mack_1103 suggested in the posts above.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I was able to give these kegs a pretty good looking over,and it appears that 4 of the 5 I have are also Cornelius-Spartan.I removed the lid and removed the gas and liquid tubes (this one has a straight liquid pick-up tube). It looks like it has never been used as both tubes had a dark sticky residue on them. Obviously VERY old syrup. They also look to have been stored outside as several had old soil stuck on the bottom and the seals on both posts looks to be near disintegration from sun and weather exposure.The 5th keg looks ever so slightly different, and that is mainly a maybe 1/4" height difference. I'll have to give it a good cleaning and get the stickers off it.Maybe I can ID it then.I'm guessing it is a Corny-Sparton too, but that will be determined later.

Several of the posts do look like they have maybe been mishandled. (dented and scratched up etc). I'm assuming these see some rough service during their lifetime.

Any idea what I should be looking for in the event I need to replace some of these posts?

I need to remove a couple of the posts and look for the ID like mashdar and mack_1103 suggested in the posts above.

If the posts are all beat up/dented, but I'd try getting one of the QD's on it and see if they fit ok. From what I've seen if the posts are trashed, you'd see the keg body with comparable wear. I have one keg that's got some big dents near the top but it still has good posts and seals just fine. Unless a keg has been run over by a truck they seem fairly robust.

The gaskets and seals are replaceable and even the posts themselves so most kegs are serviceable but if you have to replace everything you need to weigh out if a used keg is worth it considering the price of new.

 

[The Original Slim]

If the posts are all beat up/dented, but I'd try getting one of the QD's on it and see if they fit ok. From what I've seen if the posts are trashed, you'd see the keg body with comparable wear. I have one keg that's got some big dents near the top but it still has good posts and seals just fine. Unless a keg has been run over by a truck they seem fairly robust.

The gaskets and seals are replaceable and even the posts themselves so most kegs are serviceable but if you have to replace everything you need to weigh out if a used keg is worth it considering the price of new.

It may well be the same for me as it's been for others. Everything might be workable, jut in dire need of the thorough cleaning. That is the first step. Not sure how to test pressure without C02, but there is probably a work around.

 

[mac_1103]

Not sure how to test pressure without C02

Do you have an air compressor?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Even a hand pump works. I have one that I use to dispense kegged beer. It's got the gas qd on the end of a short hose. You can apply enough pressure to check for leaks.

Like I mentioned, it's a handy pump for beer you can serve right away, over using CO2.

On Amazon search " corny keg hand pump".

 

[Yesfan]

I am fairly new to kegging, but I feel like both Torpedo and Kegland fittings basically bottom out. It feels gnarly every time I tighten one, but I figured it was just me. I can totally see a 1-2 thread difference causing issues.

Some of my Torpedos are like that. They still hold pressure though.

Seems I've read here you can double up on the dip tube Orings if there's leaks. I may try that on some of my leaky kegs.

 

[redrocker652002]

As far as checking pressure, I took an old length of compressor hose and cut a small piece off. I used hose clamps to put a connector on one side and then a QD on the other. I can connect the small hose to my little pancake compressor and pump about 10 to 15 psi into the keg and hit it with some soapy water to see if there are any leaks. It isn't pretty, but it works. LOL

 

[The Original Slim]

Do you have an air compressor?

Yes. In fact I do. Just sitting there doin nuthin.

Even a hand pump works. I have one that I use to dispense kegged beer. It's got the gas qd on the end of a short hose. You can apply enough pressure to check for leaks.

Like I mentioned, it's a handy pump for beer you can serve right away, over using CO2.

On Amazon search " corny keg hand pump".

I should look around. All the bicycle/basketball pumps that have made their way through this family. Having said that, I haven't seen one in a good long while. Wouldn't hurt to put the word out.

Some of my Torpedos are like that. They still hold pressure though.

Seems I've read here you can double up on the dip tube Orings if there's leaks. I may try that on some of my leaky kegs.

That's good to know also!

Even a hand pump works. I have one that I use to dispense kegged beer. It's got the gas qd on the end of a short hose. You can apply enough pressure to check for leaks.

Like I mentioned, it's a handy pump for beer you can serve right away, over using CO2.

On Amazon search " corny keg hand pump".

I looked. Man, those look nice.I'll try to find something in my price range ($0)..with surgery coming up and Christmas just around the corner.

Some of my Torpedos are like that. They still hold pressure though.

Seems I've read here you can double up on the dip tube Orings if there's leaks. I may try that on some of my leaky kegs.

As far as checking pressure, I took an old length of compressor hose and cut a small piece off. I used hose clamps to put a connector on one side and then a QD on the other. I can connect the small hose to my little pancake compressor and pump about 10 to 15 psi into the keg and hit it with some soapy water to see if there are any leaks. It isn't pretty, but it works. LOL

I appreciate that info. A couple fittings and a shortish length of hose.Great!

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Yes, with Christmas coming up soon, get those items on the Christmas list!

Also consider, with the holidays some of the home brew supply places might have holiday specials and/or closeouts. I have seen those pumps at Adventures in Home Brewing on an over stock sale some time ago. Kicked myself for not getting another.

 

[redrocker652002]

Yes, with Christmas coming up soon, get those items on the Christmas list!

Also consider, with the holidays some of the home brew supply places might have holiday specials and/or closeouts. I have seen those pumps at Adventures in Home Brewing on an over stock sale some time ago. Kicked myself for not getting another.

I was thinking the same thing. Might do a bit of shopping myself for some things that could come in handy. LOL