Copper CF Chiller and Stainless fittings

[dinokath]

Howdy,

Anyone know any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't use stainless steel compression fittings on the ends of my copper coil CF chiller? I want to use these on this (but the 1/2" version) so I can add a thermometer and barbed fittings, making brew day that much easier.

Thanks for the input!

 

[VikeMan]

Are you concerned about galvanic corrosion? If so, Copper and Stainless Steel together are not generally a problem.

 

[MaxStout]

 

[VikeMan]

Various sources disagree about Stainless/Copper compatibilty. e.g. here's one of many that says it's ok.

It's from Right Combination of Metals, Steels and Alloys to Avoid Bimetallic Corrosion (Galvanic Corrosion)

I probably should have said that in my experience, Copper and Stainless Steel together are not generally a problem.

 

[Deadalus]

Timely question! That may explain why there isn't a fitting on the wort side of these. Darnit I just picked one up used and ordered the parts in SS. Mine came with similar compression fittings as the OP (good price BTW @dinokath) but they were disconnected and needed new ferrules. Everything else I have is stainless but I switched out a plate chiller and went with a copper CFC based on cost and potentially better cooling with the copper version. I know what galvanic corrosion is but didn't know that was potentially an issue for copper with SS.

Well, I could connect a short length of tubing between the fittings. Maybe a sharkbite adapter would work too. I'll have to do some reading on it.

Previous user clamped down hard on the tubing, mine has slight banding on the copper ends. I purchased delrin ferrules which are some sort of plastic. The outer diameter of the tubing on the the wort end is 5/8". Those replace the trapezoidal shaped ferrule, not the ring one. Brewhardware uses them on their 5/8" pickups, got the idea from there. Previous owner also had o-rings in there instead, but they were mangled up and I didn't realize they were o-rings at first.

 

[Deadalus]

Well, if I go with the tubing idea, I can use the female QD xNPT I ordered but didn't need!

Is it more of a direct contact issue?

 

[MaxStout]

Various sources disagree about Stainless/Copper compatibilty. e.g. here's one of many that says it's ok.

It's from Right Combination of Metals, Steels and Alloys to Avoid Bimetallic Corrosion (Galvanic Corrosion)

I probably should have said that in my experience, Copper and Stainless Steel together are not generally a problem.

Might have to do with the type of ss. Some may be more susceptible than others. I suppose the austenitic types, i.e., 304/316, would be less prone.

 

[Deadalus]

Might have to do with the type of ss. Some may be more susceptible than others. I suppose the austenitic types, i.e., 304/316, would be less prone.

I'm just reading something that says this, but specifically is saying brass,

The Reason Some Stainless Steels and Brasses Do not Work Together​

The metals should have no more than a .15V to .25V on the anodic index or metals that are extremely close together as listed on the index. In the case of stainless steel (410) and brass, they are seven metals apart, which means they would be likely to corrode if connected directly. When it comes to stainless steel (301, 304 and 310) and brass, they are only two metals apart, which means they can be safely connected together with minimal risk of galvanic corrosion.

Will Using Dissimilar Plumbing Pipe Metals Accelerate Pipe Corrosion?

 

[Deadalus]

If you click through on the .15V to .25V link, it goes to a pdf listing those index values. 304 SS (18% chromium type steels) has an index of 0.50 and copper is 0.35 making the difference 0.15V. Provided Midwest Nuflow fixes pipes correctly and knows their stuff, might be ok for copper or brass (0.40V) to be in contact.

 

[Broken Crow]

Maybe my reasoning is faulty (I do have brain-damage), but I haven't been concerned at the connection owing to my cleaning practice: I occasionally clean my copper CFC with Star San [and yes, I know it is a sanitizer, BUT it also cleans copper quite well]. Star San is more reactive than my wort will ever be, so after a good soak and thorough flush, I am comfortable running my wort through it.

 

[Broken Crow]

...Oh, I should add: I've had a 3/8" copper tube on a SS compression fitting for my filtered water tap under my kitchen sink for the last 20 years and even if you shake it around, it's still rock solid with no degradation leaks.

 

[Deadalus]

Maybe my reasoning is faulty (I do have brain-damage), but I haven't been concerned at the connection owing to my cleaning practice: I occasionally clean my copper CFC with Star San [and yes, I know it is a sanitizer, BUT it also cleans copper quite well]. Star San is more reactive than my wort will ever be, so after a good soak and thorough flush, I am comfortable running my wort through it.

So the charts above were helpful but as was also noted the specific stainless steel composition is also important. I am attaching a table with anodic index values that is a little more detailed. It's helpful in that it provides examples of what values for the difference are important in relation to the environment. A difference of 0.15 is conservative so the difference (0.15) between 18% chromium SS and copper would not be a problem it does seem. Doesn't appear like I will be able to use my beryllium fittings. Last time I buy stuff off the dark web!

 

[dinokath]

Galvanic corrosion isn't too much of a concern for me. I am no metallurgist but it seems the 15 - 30 minutes every few weeks and being stored dry should render this concern moot or minimal and it seems the chart @Deadalus provided just now confirms it. Even in the tome How to Brew by His Holiness John Palmer in Appendix B, addresses the metal issue and how best to deal with dissimilar metals in a homebrewing environment.

Guess my biggest concern really is the quality of the connection as it relates to leaking and crushing the copper tubing, since it's much softer, and impeding flow.

 

[Deadalus]

Galvanic corrosion isn't too much of a concern for me. I am no metallurgist but it seems the 15 - 30 minutes every few weeks and being stored dry should render this concern moot or minimal and it seems the chart @Deadalus provided just now confirms it. Even in the tome How to Brew by His Holiness John Palmer in Appendix B, addresses the metal issue and how best to deal with dissimilar metals in a homebrewing environment.

Guess my biggest concern really is the quality of the connection as it relates to leaking and crushing the copper tubing, since it's much softer, and impeding flow.

As I mentioned, the previous owner seems to have compressed the copper a little bit on the one I just got (pic below). I know on softer tubing, like pex, compression style fittings sometimes have a sort of spacer inside the softer tubing to prevent compression. The valves on my radiant heat system have this in conjunction with pex supply lines. I mentioned earlier that I bought a Delrin/nylon ferrule as a replacement, which you can read the reasoning for here. So you would be able to tighten these using less force provided that Delrin ferrule works with your specific fittings. I need to remove that pickup tube to get my MT false bottom in and out and that was part of the reason for buying it. I had one spare Delrin ferrule I bought but needed two so I bought a pack of ten off ebay. I will be receiving them this friday and will be brewing this weekend so I could report back to let you know if that works. I am currently looking to use a cross fitting with a dial gauge and an oxygen stone on the output. The dial thermometer needs a bushing though which may not arrive until Monday but I can work around that as a I have a brumometer and can use a tee instead of the cross.

 

[Deadalus]

Or look for a brass compression adapter as copper is also considered softer and I think I have seen those with inserts to protect the tubing. Might be the better choice if available as brass is in the middle of copper and 304 SS index values.

 

[MaxStout]

Galvanic corrosion isn't too much of a concern for me. I am no metallurgist but it seems the 15 - 30 minutes every few weeks and being stored dry should render this concern moot or minimal and it seems the chart @Deadalus provided just now confirms it. Even in the tome How to Brew by His Holiness John Palmer in Appendix B, addresses the metal issue and how best to deal with dissimilar metals in a homebrewing environment.

Guess my biggest concern really is the quality of the connection as it relates to leaking and crushing the copper tubing, since it's much softer, and impeding flow.

And using an adequate amount of teflon tape in threaded connections will at least keep water out of the joints. The tape won't electrically isolate the two metals, as the threads bite into the tape and would be in contact with one another. But keeping the gear dry during storage, as you mentioned, should minimize the galvanic corrosion risk.

 

[Deadalus]

When I first received my CFC just a few days ago, I thought I needed new SS compression fittings as one of the two ferrules (per fitting) was missing and replaced by the o-rings. Then I remembered about the 5/8" delrins so I went with that. But here's possibly a better choice and it is push to connect removable. It's safe for potable water and probably there's a male thread type as well if needed.

 

[hotbeer]

What are you putting the fittings on? The ends for the cooling water or the ends for the wort?

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

 

[dinokath]

When I first received my CFC just a few days ago, I thought I needed new SS compression fittings as one of the two ferrules (per fitting) was missing and replaced by the o-rings. Then I remembered about the 5/8" delrins so I went with that. But here's possibly a better choice and it is push to connect removable. It's safe for potable water and probably there's a male thread type as well if needed.

That SharkBite is only rated to 200F. It's just 6% more for boiling wort (or so) so maybe it will be OK? Dunno. Probably going to go with brass compression fittings and do the vinegar/H2O2 dip to deal with the lead.

Might even skip it all together and just keep using the silicone tubing slipped over the ends of the copper tubing using worm drive clamps. The main thing I wanted to do was add a thermometer to the chiller. Might just make one that I add inline. Dunno.

 

[dinokath]

What are you putting the fittings on? The ends for the cooling water or the ends for the wort?

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

Yeah, that's probably the best advice and hard to argue. Most likely will wind up doing that.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Deadalus]

That SharkBite is only rated to 200F. It's just 6% more for boiling wort (or so) so maybe it will be OK? Dunno. Probably going to go with brass compression fittings and do the vinegar/H2O2 dip to deal with the lead.

Might even skip it all together and just keep using the silicone tubing slipped over the ends of the copper tubing using worm drive clamps. The main thing I wanted to do was add a thermometer to the chiller. Might just make one that I add inline. Dunno.

Sorry I didn't see that! Probably the insert is the issue, and I wouldn't use it then. Might still find one for potable water though even if all brass, maybe not ptc. I did the dip treatment on a specific valve myself feeding into my mash tun. I've gotten away from the worm drive clamps and typically use the ear clamps (Oteikers) if I have to. My original IC was a real pain with dripping and using tubing on copper with the worm clamps.

You could also solder an adapter on there. I can't find my cheap torch is why I wasn't thinking of it. The tank is empty too and I don't want to buy a new tank for just two fittings and I don't even like the torch anyway as I am used to a real plumbers torch. Which I have and its tank is also empty and out of date. But maybe you have friend with a torch.

What are you putting the fittings on? The ends for the cooling water or the ends for the wort?

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

They'll get funky at the wort in as the wort will push under the tubing. Then it needs to be taken apart. Maybe it can be done perfectly and the clamp positioned just right but in all honesty it's not a sanitary connection.

 

[Deadalus]

Here's a female thread with a lead free brass insert from supplyhouse.com, also a male. Great place to order fittings from, I've used them many times. They are real cheap on shipping too, like $5 for small stuff. Home Depot has them too. Lowes female and male too.

 

[hotbeer]

They'll get funky at the wort in as the wort will push under the tubing. Then it needs to be taken apart. Maybe it can be done perfectly and the clamp positioned just right but in all honesty it's not a sanitary connection.

Well I was expecting that it'd be understood that the tubing is removed and cleaned after every use. So I don't see a problem for the wort or anything else that get under the tubing just for the time of use for that one batch of wort..

 

[Deadalus]

Well I was expecting that it'd be understood that the tubing is removed and cleaned after every use. So I don't see a problem for the wort or anything else that get under the tubing just for the time of use for that one batch of wort..

That's understandably a PITA to do every time and unnecessary. You can sanitize with Starsan and/or recirculate hot wort through the tubing without having to fuss with the worm clamp every time. The worm clamp itself is part of the problem as the fit isn't isn't great near the screw part. On and off repeatedly with those clamps isn't their intended use and hard on tubing with the slots. Not saying that QDs and camlocks are the best but more pros than just sliding the tubing on and off with a worm clamp.

 

[dinokath]

I have wrestled with getting QD's or camlocks but they are just another place for funk to find refuge and harbor, so barbed fittings it is! Less secure, for sure but generally it's just me around and the occasional bystander. As for the worm clamps, I use ones with a big plastic wingnut for easy turning on and off by hand and then a wrap a couple rounds of black electrical tape around the end of the hose so the clamp doesn't cut into the end too quickly. It's been the better part of 5 years since I moved from 3/8" to 1/2" and the hose has been nipped once, just a couple weeks ago in fact, by about 2 inches. I am pretty happy about it. Only REAL reason I was looking at QD's or camlocks is so when people come over and watch they go 'oooooooo' with the fancy dancy connectors. Been brewing since 2006 and been using barbs all the while with ne'er an issue, that I can recall at least!

OK. I have officially talked myself out of adding the compression fittings! Now to construct an inline thermometer using this, this and this. I've always wanted to know the temps as it exits the chiller so I can optimize the flow rate, which is what started the whole journey.

 

[Deadalus]

Good plan then to go with the barbs, you weren't going to impress anybody anyway. If you are that concerned about funk that you disassemble your barbs every time, I don't see you coping well with the SS tee. Taking that apart every brew is just going to be a bother with the teflon tape since CIP is off the table! I have a whole bag of those butterfly style clamps and like the reviewers at the link you posted, I too find that they rust out and crack. I converted my first CFC to an IC 25 years ago, and I never liked using tubing on the copper pipe because it would spring leaks now and then under the worm clamps. Smooth copper is not even as good as a barb as far as holding power. I missed the recalcitrance of the "...and barbed fittings", glad to have helped you arrive at your predertermined position. I at least learned something here thanks @VikeMan and @MaxStout!

 

[hotbeer]

That's understandably a PITA to do every time and unnecessary. You can sanitize with Starsan and/or recirculate hot wort through the tubing without having to fuss with the worm clamp every time. The worm clamp itself is part of the problem as the fit isn't isn't great near the screw part. On and off repeatedly with those clamps isn't their intended use and hard on tubing with the slots. Not saying that QDs and camlocks are the best but more pros than just sliding the tubing on and off with a worm clamp.

Well also I didn't specify a worm clamp. However I did specify a properly sized clamp.

IMO, many of the issues people have with worm clamps are that they don't use the proper size clamp and will try to make one work on a hose that is small a diameter than the clamp was intended.

FYI, I don't think any of us are trying to give the OP the perfect solution... well at least some of us. We are just suggesting other ways so the OP can have plenty of suggestions to choose from and decide which is less of a PITA to them.

 

[dinokath]

I missed the recalcitrance of the "...and barbed fittings",

Recalcitrance, eh? Nice. Check my first post where I stated it would be barbed fittings on the compression fitting. There was no predetermined position here. Only mentioned the QD's when you did, perhaps overshared my thought process on them by 'thinking out loud' and clearly you missed the jest in my statement on impressing people. I don't think I said I disassemble the barbed fittings after every brew BUT I do remove the worm clamps and hose from the CF chiller and flush it out.

Thank you for the condescending diatribe. Much appreciated!

 

[Deadalus]

Well also I didn't specify a worm clamp. However I did specify a properly sized clamp.

IMO, many of the issues people have with worm clamps are that they don't use the proper size clamp and will try to make one work on a hose that is small a diameter than the clamp was intended.

FYI, I don't think any of us are trying to give the OP the perfect solution... well at least some of us. We are just suggesting other ways so the OP can have plenty of suggestions to choose from and decide which is less of a PITA to them.

There generally isn't a perfect solution, there are pros and cons to everything most times. FYI I was simply expressing the cons associated with your suggestion and in no way suggested QDs or camlocks as perfect. I also provided multiple suggestions for an adapter. You are the one who suggested to "just use a properly sized tube and properly sized clamp..." without discussing any other options. And the OP had just stated they were using a worm drive clamp so I was addressing both of you at that point. And even if they weren't taking it off every time, there is no difference from the barbed QD, barbed camlock, even a barbed TC fitting and and a barb in the tee when cleaning involves taking the tubing off other than a quick brushing or wipe down of the specific quick disconnect. Plus the benefit of a more fixed connection instead of a repeated loosening and tightening of the worm drive clamp. But I certainly wasn't suggesting to "just" do it one way.

Since you mentioned it, what readily removable properly sized clamps are you using? (You've had a chance to specify and haven't.) I've got an assortment box of the standard worm drive clamps to go along with the bag of assorted thumbscrew type, also a digital caliper to measure with. I'm game for trying a new style. I still have one of those butterfly type clamps on my recirc manifold. They can be useful in certain situations but they are often just cheaply made.

 

[Deadalus]

Recalcitrance, eh? Nice. Check my first post where I stated it would be barbed fittings on the compression fitting. There was no predetermined position here. Only mentioned the QD's when you did, perhaps overshared my thought process on them by 'thinking out loud' and clearly you missed the jest in my statement on impressing people. I don't think I said I disassemble the barbed fittings after every brew BUT I do remove the worm clamps and hose from the CF chiller and flush it out.

Thank you for the condescending diatribe. Much appreciated!

Yes you did say it in the first post, mentioned using barbs since 2006, described your precautionary tubing fix, implied that using QDs and camlocks is simply for showing off, with no anecdotes of you actually using them or even any real pros and cons, while basing your decision on the single suggestion that they may harbor funk as suggested by just one poster. I suppose hidebound would have been better. If you don't take it apart every time, how are you going to get the tee clean? I've got multiple brushes, it's hard enough with a regular brush on a regular 1/2" disconnected tee to clean around an oxygen stone in the tee with a union fitting and male QD on the other ports. I can't really see putting a brush through a barb tip to clean around the t-stat probe and the interior cavity of the tee. You could CIP but then no need to disconnect the tubing at the clamp at all. You could recirc wort too as additional precaution provided you have a pump.

No problem on the exposition to your very terse reasoning to again what appears to have already been predetermined-you have a bias against quick connects. You just needed one person to say what you wanted to hear. It's fine, other people have had difficulties finding compression fittings for the style of CFC I have so they have some options presented.

 

[dinokath]

Bruh

 

[Dland]

Anyway...I recently had to look in to this topic when installing in new well, expansion tank, etc. Considered mixing metals in house side plumbing as there was a time lag on the bronze T fitting I needed for expansion tank. It can be done, but a di-electric insulator is recommended. In the end, I waited for the bronze T, just to keep things simple.

What does above have to do with current thread? Not much; this is not continuous flow, immersion and fixed infrastructure. Also don't want to be mixing metals in marine applications, have seen that go badly.

Application that is the subject of this thread;.. Don't worry about. Just use some teflon tape on the treads and everything will likely be just fine.

 

[hotbeer]

There generally isn't a perfect solution, there are pros and cons to everything most times. FYI I was simply expressing the cons associated with your suggestion and in no way suggested QDs or camlocks as perfect. I also provided multiple suggestions for an adapter. You are the one who suggested to "just use a properly sized tube and properly sized clamp..." without discussing any other options.

I didn't see where any had suggested what I suggested. So I was just adding one to the list of things already suggested. I didn't know it was required that I discuss other options. Until the OP asks or says something to make me think otherwise I'm assuming they are capable of figuring out what they'd like to try next and what will be more of a PITA to them or not. Con's and pro's also include personal preference and I can't make that for the OP. Some say bottling is a PITA, yet I and others think Kegging is a PITA.

And even if they weren't taking it off every time, there is no difference from the barbed QD, barbed camlock, even a barbed TC fitting and and a barb in the tee when cleaning involves taking the tubing off other than a quick brushing or wipe down of the specific quick disconnect. Plus the benefit of a more fixed connection instead of a repeated loosening and tightening of the worm drive clamp. But I certainly wasn't suggesting to "just" do it one way.

I'm not sure why one wouldn't take the hose off every time. But I'd rather not add to the already labored and lengthy discussion this has become about what fitting to put on the chiller. And quick disconnects come in many forms. Some not so easy to simply wipe off. Many I've seen with a O-ring that if not removed and the grove it sits in cleaned/sanitized, then a place to harbor infection if used on the tube for the wort.

These type clamps would be more preferable for clamping vinyl or silicone tubing than a worm clamp.

Walmart.com

They are inexpensive and can be found at a local auto parts store in a box of assorted sizes. Of course they are easier to deal with if you have the proper hose clamp pliers for these type clamps. However wide jaw pliers work well enough and sometimes if the hose, the tube you are putting it on, the fluid pressure is low enough and other things like planet alignment is just right then I can squeeze with my thumb and forefingers and get them on and off. Even on automobiles and other machinery.

Since you mentioned it, what readily removable properly sized clamps are you using?

I only use a simple immersion coil chiller. I just slip the ends of the vinyl tubing over the smooth ends of the copper tubing. It holds well enough. Though if I was to turn the pressure up too high I'd expect the tube on the inlet side would blow off.

But still the worm clamp you shun isn't so bad a choice IMO. If they are the correct size and haven't been used on any tubes that were smaller diameter prior to the current use. Even if that other use was still within the size range of the worm clamp.

And the size range is NOT always determined by how far the clamp allows you to turn it. Some have the slots all the entire length of the clamp. Probably just so you have the option to use it in other situations than the manufacturer imagined or just that it's more cost effective for their processes to make it that way. Other worm clamps limit how far you can screw the band. I don't think either is better if one knows what to consider.

In this thread you've never given the OP a chance to respond much. Maybe you think it helpful to the OP, but to me it's just filled this thread up with useless conversation that the OP and everyone else must wade through.

And I realize I've been guilty sometimes of the same thing, but I'm trying to be better! IMO, the OP probably could figure out most of the additional discussion you've made in their stead. This thread has turned from a simple question into something that's much like trying to take a sip of water from a open fire hydrant.

 

[Deadalus]

Last paragraph is about galvanic corrosion, beginning is for @hotbeer

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

Just means exactly. There's a big difference between "just do it this way" and "you could do it this way" or "how about this". You further qualified it with what not to do, use a QD. And that you didn't mention alternatives afterward reinforces that. If you misspoke just say it.

Then you give a backhanded comment directed to me, with a "We" when "We" includes me who had just given multiple suggestions directed towards the question about adapters. And it was actually you who introduced the not using QD discussion. OP questioned using an adapter to a tee then barbs. Nothing I said until you chimed in was about QDs (other than me mentioning I might I use a spare I had), it was about types of adapters and composition.

FYI, I don't think any of us are trying to give the OP the perfect solution... well at least some of us. We are just suggesting other ways so the OP can have plenty of suggestions to choose from and decide which is less of a PITA to them.

You were the one who hijacked it! Emphatically defending a process that you admittedly don't even use. That's rich! I have multiple hoses that I wouldn't want to repeatedly take off their worm clamps after every brew. The OP would have at least four and practically had to pull teeth to get you to admit to a different style you weren't even using.

And the OP did have time to respond. Three times no less, before officially talking themself out of it. Reread the thread you've been dissembling here.


Anyway...there's an additional factor to galvanic corrosion beyond the electrolyte (water, wort) and it relates to the relative surface area of the two metals being joined. If you are joining a small area anodic (less noble) piece such as copper pipe to a larger area cathodic surface, say a stainless steel tank corrosion will occur. The other way around though, like here a stainless fitting to copper pipe not usually a problem. The caveat is that first example (given at the link) is considered within a submersed supply water situation. As mentioned by several posters, drying out the fittings and minimizing contact using teflon would result in short contact time on a small surface area.

 

[hotbeer]

Just means exactly. There's a big difference between "just do it this way" and "you could do it this way" or "how about this". You further qualified it with what not to do, use a QD. And that you didn't mention alternatives afterward reinforces that. If you misspoke just say it.

You are parsing the words of a quickly written statement and assigning more meaning to them than I and I'd think most anyone else would have put to them.

The subject of my initial reply is about what I and let me repeat that what I would do. The next sentence doesn't really state the subject being addressed. You've taken that as me commanding the OP to do as I say. You couldn't be further from the truth. I want the OP to do what they think will work best for them.

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.

 

[Deadalus]

You are parsing the words of a quickly written statement and assigning more meaning to them than I and I'd think most anyone else would have put to them.

The subject of my initial reply is about what I and let me repeat that what I would do. The next sentence doesn't really state the subject being addressed. You've taken that as me commanding the OP to do as I say. You couldn't be further from the truth. I want the OP to do what they think will work best for them.

You are really making a mountain out of a molehill.

You are admitting that what you wrote was in haste and that you don't mean it the way you have written it but the onus was on me to understand you properly?! Nice try with the gaslighting but the third sentence does have a subject--"you" here referring to the OP-- and refers back to the sole direction you gave in the second sentence.

I wouldn't put anything on the end for the wort. Just use a properly sized tube to slip over the end with a properly sized clamp. Then you won't have to worry if that quick connect is harboring something that might infect your beer.

How about have you even used a CFC (used one, cleaned it, used it again)? I built one as I said 25 years ago. For various reasons I wasn't comfortable with whether it was fully clean inside and converted it to an IC. So I completely understand wanting to be extremely confident about sanitation. But you can't see inside a CFC. If a brewer isn't confident enough in getting connections cleaned without complete disassembly every time, they will never be happy with the CFC or a plate chiller. I'm asking about your use because I just went through a bunch of discussion with you emphatically defending a cleaning process that is just hypothetical to you. I brew on a 3V2p EHERMS, initially using a SS IC and then I switched to a plate chiller. I have added in a hopstopper II, removed my hop spider, and want to whirlporl still. I switched back to my IC but a CFC appears to be the a better choice. I am fully confident of my CIP and sanitation process with the plate chiller so the CFC won't be an issue. And as matter of fact, I am putting together my copper CFC in nearly the same fashion as the OP. So with this being an open forum, the suggestions you are making are being viewed by me almost as if I had posted the question myself, hence my involvement. The only angle I am seeing from you is that you think clamps need 100% removal for sanitation and that quick connect fittings shouldn't be used as they might get funky. Do you have any quick connects, have you used any?

 

[hotbeer]

You are admitting that what you wrote was in haste and that you don't mean it the way you have written it but the onus was on me to understand you properly?! Nice try with the gaslighting but the third sentence does have a subject--"you" here referring to the OP-- and refers back to the sole direction you gave in the second sentence.

How about have you even used a CFC (used one, cleaned it, used it again)? I built one as I said 25 years ago. For various reasons I wasn't comfortable with whether it was fully clean inside and converted it to an IC. So I completely understand wanting to be extremely confident about sanitation. But you can't see inside a CFC. If a brewer isn't confident enough in getting connections cleaned without complete disassembly every time, they will never be happy with the CFC or a plate chiller. I'm asking about your use because I just went through a bunch of discussion with you emphatically defending a cleaning process that is just hypothetical to you. I brew on a 3V2p EHERMS, initially using a SS IC and then I switched to a plate chiller. I have added in a hopstopper II, removed my hop spider, and want to whirlporl still. I switched back to my IC but a CFC appears to be the a better choice. I am fully confident of my CIP and sanitation process with the plate chiller so the CFC won't be an issue. And as matter of fact, I am putting together my copper CFC in nearly the same fashion as the OP. So with this being an open forum, the suggestions you are making are being viewed by me almost as if I had posted the question myself, hence my involvement. The only angle I am seeing from you is that you think clamps need 100% removal for sanitation and that quick connect fittings shouldn't be used as they might get funky. Do you have any quick connects, have you used any?

This is a social forum. Not a highly specialized site for only peer reviewed discussion. You aren't being very social!

You are taking offense at very small and trivial things.

And most certainly you are posing what I wrote in an entirely different manner than was intended when written. So you are the one gaslighting.

 

[Deadalus]

This is a social forum. Not a highly specialized site for only peer reviewed discussion. You aren't being very social!

You are taking offense at very small and trivial things.

And most certainly you are posing what I wrote in an entirely different manner than was intended when written. So you are the one gaslighting.

It's good that you keep admitting that you mispoke because we are communicating with text. Own it already, I'm not a mind-reader. And I called you on two complete fabrications concerning my participation here, and you just kept going and making up more BS and still claiming it's me. I think you have a mistaken idea of what is social. HBTalk is not a highly specialized site for peer reviewed discussion? It's not a site where homebrewing peers discuss electrical panel construction, water chemistry, grain malting, yeast biology and genetics, DIY brewing rigs, user written brewing software and other brewing programs, and oxidation, oxidation, oxidation? [Is this the point where I am supposed to know what you meant?] There are sub-forums for general chit-chat but this thread isn't in it. The thread topic is using stainless steel compression fittings on the ends of my copper coil CF chiller. That's a no and a no to the boldfaced questions I posed to you earlier then?

Following up now, I received the Delrin compression sleeve/ferrules. Given that I had a sort of groove on the wort side copper ends, I was hesitant to overtighten these. There's not a lot of room left before the tee fitting. I got some grab but the entire fitting would still spin. I tightened it down nearly completely though and no good, still spinning. I could conceivably solder on a coupling and then get more extension but I think I will go with the brass compression by NPT adapters as plan B as they have the sleeve to prevent further compression. I'm hoping they will seal and perhaps smooth the copper tubing back to round. Those automobile type clamps might work although with complete honesty the bigger ones can be real bastards without the specialty pliers. I've used smaller ones with small engines (mower, log splitter, power washer) that weren't so difficult Thank you for that mostly on topic suggestion hotbeer. I recognized your genuine experience using them given the pliers comments along with your humorous note about planet alignment. I guess the moon was in Ares today making that easier for me.