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Control fermentation temp.

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Rick Crane

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Hello,
Do I need to keep my carboy at 64 degrees for 2 weeks? Or can I take it out of the cooler at some point and leave at room temp. When I rack to the secondary do I need to put the carboy back in the cooler at 64 degrees for 2 weeks? Thanks, it's my first beer using my chest freezer for fermenting. I am making an Irish Stout.
 

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Hello,
Do I need to keep my carboy at 64 degrees for 2 weeks? Or can I take it out of the cooler at some point and leave at room temp. When I rack to the secondary do I need to put the carboy back in the cooler at 64 degrees for 2 weeks? Thanks, it's my first beer using my chest freezer for fermenting. I am making an Irish Stout.
Keep it coolish/controlled until fermentation has slowed down significantly, but ideally not quite completely. You could turn the temp controller up a little toward the end, say 1 or 2 degrees per day, when things have slowed down, or move it into a warmer area. By doing this, you encourage the yeast to keep fermenting and finish up. It slides into the condition phase, so leave it there for a week to 2 weeks, depending on the beer and other things. It should then be ready to package if gravity is stable and at or near projected FG.

Please, do not rack to a secondary!
They're not needed and may (will) cause trouble while solving nothing. Leave it in the primary. Secondaries are still (tenaciously) mentioned in kit instructions, but for no good reason.
 
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Rick Crane

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Keep it coolish/controlled until fermentation has slowed down significantly, but ideally not quite completely. You could turn the temp controller up a little toward the end, say 1 or 2 degrees per day, when things have slowed down, or move it into a warmer area. By doing this, you encourage the yeast to keep fermenting and finish up. It slides into the condition phase, so leave it there for a week to 2 weeks, depending on the beer and other things. It should then be ready to package if gravity is stable and at or near projected FG.

Please, do not rack to a secondary!
They're not needed and may (will) cause trouble while solving nothing. Leave it in the primary. Secondary's are still (tenaciously) mentioned in kit instructions, but for no good reason.
Thanks for the advice about not using a secondary. I was never too keen on using the secondary, I just thought it was part of the process and went with it. Time to order my next beer kit. Belgian all grain I think.
Erik
 

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Thanks for the advice about not using a secondary. I was never too keen on using the secondary, I just thought it was part of the process and went with it. Time to order my next beer kit. Belgian all grain I think.
Erik
There is some use for secondaries, for bulk aging past 1-2 months, or mixed fermentation sours.

But for most routine (>99.99%) homebrewed beers there is no advantage or very little if the transfer can be done properly under CO2 into 100% liquid pre-purged secondaries (e.g., kegs).

Also, any air/oxygen ingress when dry hopping will cause oxidation and ruin hop sensation quickly, so even when doing that in the primary, one needs to be diligent.
 
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I like the accessibility you have with the standup fridge. I like to watch the fermentation action sometimes. I can only see the top while in the chest freezer. I have a harness on my carboy to put it in and lift it out of the chest freezer. I bought a humidifier too for the freezer. It works good, no more moisture accumulating and the smell of mold is gone. Mold was growing on the harness for the carboy.
New and Improved Eva-dry E-500 Renewable Mini Dehumidifier
 

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My vote is for a 4.4 cubic foot mini fridge. Holds one carboy or two Corny kegs. Front loading makes for easy work and beer tasks.View attachment 704422
You're using aluminum foil instead of regular airlocks? Any advantage other than omitting the needed space on top?

BTW, I noticed pinholes developing in the aluminum foil used for starter "hoods." I now cover those foil hoods with some Starsaned plastic wrap.
 
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