Connecting 2 counterflow chillers

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spiny_norman

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I have an issue that my counterflow chiller will only bring my wort down to 89 degrees (hose water temp is 65). A common suggestion is to use a pre-chiller, but I'm wondering if extending the length of copper would be more effective, i.e. connecting two CFCs together. Anyone tried this?
 
have you thought about recirculating your wort back into the pot? this would of course require some sort of pump and cant be done by gravity. might be cheaper than buying a second CFC.
 
How long is the coil now? If it's 25 feet, something is wrong. Are you sure you're running it counterflow?

I forget where I purchased it, but I'm pretty sure it's 25ft 3/8". Hose water in at the end where the wort comes out. I have the kettle out connected to a March pump, which is connected to the CFC. The pick-up tube in the boil kettle is very narrow so the flow rate of the wort is slow as it is so not much scope for adjusting the flow rate--although perhaps I should experiment by boiling up some water and throttling the flow rate to a trickle and see if that brings the temp down some more.
 
Don't forget that you're also going to double your loss from wort in the extra coil or plate.

+1 on recirc back to the kettle. That's what I do.

Put a temp probe at the chiller exit and recirc until it is down to what you want, then move the output hose into your fermenter.
 
I've been doing some digging around and I'm pretty sure that my problem is that I'm getting too much air in the wort chiller so I'm getting crap efficiency. Actually, I'm certain this is the problem because it's always a nightmare priming the pump and the tube between the kettle and the pump inlet always has air in it. Think I'll change the kettle pickup tube for something larger diameter and start recirculating back into the boil kettle as well.
 
Stick it into a cooler full of snow...

We used to get rink ice from the local ice skating areana.

We now have a plate chiller and wouldn't go back to the counter flow.

We cool 20 gallons in 20 minutes.

hopfen
 
you know, we did get some snow in Riverside and Claremont a few weeks ago. . .




and I hear Armageddon is scheduled for next week. . .
 
Then take a cooler, fill it with cold water and throw in a few bags of ice.

It's not rocket science...
 
Currently I'm putting the fermenter in a temp controlled chest freezer, but it's still taking 3+ hours to get it down from 89 to 65 degrees.
 
I don't think you picked up on my question. Are you SURE that you are running it counterflow? What I mean is, do you have the WORT IN on the end of the coil where the Coolant OUT is? This is extremely important. It also helps that you orient the coil so that the wort in is on the bottom and out is on the top. it will help get any trapped air out of there.

I was getting the wort out to be in the range of 5 degrees over the coolant temp with my CFC.
 
silly question. can you tell if there is anything inside the pipes to cause turbulence in either the water or wort as it passes through the chiller?
 
I don't get ANY air in my counterflow unless I have a vacuum leak (due to the pump).

My set-up is like this: Kettle's valve -> 3/8" braided hose -> counterflow inlet (run upwards to outlet) -> counterflow outlet -> 5/8" braided hose -> Pump in -> Pump out -> 5/8" braided hose -> 3/8" ball valve -> 3/8" hose into the fermenter.

To sanitize + prime, my procedure is this: I fill a 5-gallon bucket half-way with a mild sanitizing solution, and I use a spray nozzle that I attach to the garden hose. I insert that nozzle into the 3/8" braided inlet (the one that attaches to the kettle's ball valve), WHILE under the water level in the bucket, and I push water through the hose until no more air bubbles come out. I leave both the 3/8" input and the 3/8" output in the sanitizing bucket, and I let the pump circulate this solution for 15-30 minutes, until I am ready to chill.

When ready to chill, I close the 3/8" ball valve on the outlet (circulations stops), then I put my thumb over the 3/8" inlet, and I attach it to the kettle's valve using a hose clamp.

Then I start the flow of cold water, and I open the kettle's ball valve, and the 3/8" outlet ball valve, dumping into the sanitizing solution bucket, until I get a clear running of beer coming out of the outlet.

Then I throttle back the 3/8" valve until I get the desired temperature.

When I'm done, I use the same nozzle to rinse out the chiller.

M_C
 
SOLVED:

I did an experiment this morning. I replaced the boil kettle pickup tube for a wider diameter pipe. This removed the issue of air getting into the pump inlet. Ground water was 62 degrees. First pass through the CFC the temp came down to 79 degrees instantly. I recirculated into the boil kettle and after 10 minutes the temp came down to 68 degrees, but wouldn't go any lower. Restricting the flow rate of the coolant or the wort would not reduce it. The in-line temp gauge was over reading; my calibrated thermometer was showing 65 degrees. This seems to align with what other people are seeing: that the temp will come down to around 2 to 5 degrees above the coolant temp.

All in all, very happy. Ordered a pre-chiller for those summer brew days.
 
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