Cold crashing

[Kmcogar]

Well, I'm trying to completely understand cold crashing. I've read many threads but there is so many different opinions on how to do it and when to do it.

When are you supposed to do it?
How Lon are you supposed to do it?
Is there some beers that you don't need to do it to?

If I want to harvest some yeast, should I cold crash my beer overnight? Ya know just to get the yeast cold enough not to get sucked up into my racking. Last time I went to harvest the yeast it seemed like there was still too much beer in the bottom of the carboy to harvest it. But I figured if the yeast was colder I could get more beer out without disturbing it.

What if I cold crashed the beer one night? Just to make the yeast solidify a little. Is that ok?

Still new to the harvesting the yeast thing so any additional comments on that would be great.
For instance, after I harvest the yeast and have it in a 8 ounce mason jar. When I go to use it, do I use the whole thing? Try to use just what's on top? Not the sediment on the bottom? Right?

 

[hopheaded]

Ive never harvested yeast so i cant comment there but...

Cold crash once the beer is all the way done (ie before you keg/bottle). This will help clarify the beer by dropping all the yeast/dry hops/whatever else might be hanging around to the bottom of your carboy. I cold crash for 2-3 days at around 35 degrees by moving the carboy into my kegerator or fridge. (ive gone lower in the past, but have also accidently frozen beer so i keep it above freezing just in case. anything cold is helpful though.)

helps clear your beer and slightly speeds up your force carbing since the beer is already cold and doesnt need to cool down in the keg.

 

[Buna_Bere]

The colder you can get it without freezing the better. I drop the temp down to 28-29F then hold it for 48 hours. Dr.Bamforth, on an episode of Brew Strong about chill haze, said colder temps -1 to -2C were more important than the length of the crash.

 

[Franknferter]

I just learned something new. So a day or two before bottling it is best to drop the temperature as low as possible to help the beer clarify. Is this a good habit to get into for all beers?

 

[Jsuds]

Doing this today:

Brewed on the eighth and the gravity has evened out and krausen has dropped.
Moving bucket into the kegereator at around forty degrees.
Taking off the airlock and replacing with sanitized foil. (temperature change will suck the water from the airlock into the beer)
Spraying the crap out of everything with star san.
Finally kegging in two days with a hop bag hanging inside and bottling sugar.
Should be ready in a few weeks.

Jw

 

[BOBrob]

Cold crash is simply dropping the temp down to low 30s for a few days until the beer clears. But the fermentation process has to be complete! That will normally take 3weeks or longer depending on the type/style of brew and the YEAST. Give the yeast time to clean up the full process; you can not rush them. Washed yeast is the stuff at the bottom, the stuff on top is beer. You make your starter from the stuff on the bottom of the mason jar. Pour off as much liquid as you can without disturbing the sediment (yeast) on the bottom, use the sediment for your starter. Cheers

 

[gr8shandini]

I just learned something new. So a day or two before bottling it is best to drop the temperature as low as possible to help the beer clarify. Is this a good habit to get into for all beers?

Depends on the style. If you're doing something like a Hefe that should have some yeast in suspension, you probably don't want to cold crash. But for the most part, yes. Even dark beers benefit from being clear.

And while I agree with BOBrob up above that you need to wait until fermentation is complete, waiting at least three weeks kinda defeats the purpose of a cold crash. Most ales are completely done in 10-14 days. If your beer tastes good and is at FG, waiting any longer is just waiting for the yeast to clear. And the reason to do a cold crash is so you don't have to wait so long for the yeast to clear.