Cold crashing question.

[rcgriff88]

Monday marks two weeks in my LBK fermenter and was thinking of cold crashing since I was told it would help settle the yeast ( I think). I was wondering if two weeks is enough for the mr beer west coast ale or should strap in and wait longer or bottle and wait a certain amount of time?

The real question I have though is with the cold crashing, I'm currently reading about home brewing in a book I received and haven't made it far enough to see anything if there is about cold crashing. Does the temp need to be a certain temp or would a average fridge work?

Thanks for any feed back!

 

[Nanobru]

Just the fridge. Make sure the beer is done first.

 

[rcgriff88]

Ok because I have been checking it every couple days or so and I checked it last night and the bubbles I did have in there are gone for a couple of days now. The only thing would be that I don't have a hydrometer to do any gravity readings.

 

[Brewskii]

Ok because I have been checking it every couple days or so and I checked it last night and the bubbles I did have in there are gone for a couple of days now. The only thing would be that I don't have a hydrometer to do any gravity readings.

Get one. It's the only real way to tell what's going on.

 

[rcgriff88]

Yea I plan on getting just gotta make the hike to a shop that has them and see how much they are haha but the other thing is I didn't take a OG reading how would I be able to determine if the FG is telling me it's done

 

[TopherM]

All post-fermentation cold crashing does is help with clarity. Doesn't change the taste/quality of the beer at all.

Have you ever used Whirlfloc in your boil? Much easier than cold crashing post fermentation.

The idea behind cold crashing is not really to settle the yeast. They settle either way once there is nothing left for them to eat. Cold crashing will help with clarity in your final beer by coagulating and settling the remaining proteins in your beer.

Putting a Whirlfloc tablet in your boil at the 5 minute mark will accomplish about 90% of the same thing. The Irish Moss compounds in the Whirlfloc tablet bond together proteins, making them weigh more and settle faster.

Cold crashing post boil can be a PITA. Ideally, you'd want to rack to secondary before cold crashing, then you'd need to get back to room temp before bottling to prepare the yeast to carb and condition. Not worth it for the subtle change in clarity, in my opinion.

If I were you, I'd skip the cold crashing procedure and just go buy some Whirlfloc tablets for your next batch. They are about $2 for a 10 pack.

 

[rcgriff88]

I've never heard of that before but I don't have a secondary only my LBK. I'm just trying to make sure my first comes out as good as I can and was told that cold crashing would help since I'll be bottling next week. Thank you for all the info tho.

 

[TopherM]

Cold crashing is purely cosmetic....in your case in a Mr. Beer fermentor, I'd just skip it. The yeast will settle and compact just fine due to gravity if you keep your bottles upright during carb/conditioning.

 

[AnOldUR]

Ideally, you'd want to rack to secondary before cold crashing, then you'd need to get back to room temp before bottling to prepare the yeast to carb and condition.

Not true. Nothing wrong with cold crashing in the primary. In fact, it's very effective. Also, no need to bring back to room temperature before bottling. There will be plenty of yeast still in suspension to carbonate your beer. Bottling cold will help preserve the clarity of your beer. Just be sure to allow the bottles to return to room temperature for a few weeks after bottling.



edit:
Also use the highest temperature your beer was at after fermentation was complete to determine the amount of priming sugar to use. Not the cold crash temperature.

 

[OHIOSTEVE]

I gotta disagree with TOPHER also. I cold crash damned near everything I brew and have never warmed it back up prior to bottling. I also use whirlfloc and there is still a big difference pre and post cold crashing.

 

[rcgriff88]

I guess I'm going to skip the cold crash and wait till I have more batches under my belt to do anything that I'm not too sure of plus I'm still reading that book so all of the info you guys gave me plus the books info will reinsure me but thanks for all the help.

 

[YeastHerder]

Since I have a closely related question, I'll piggy back it on this thread.

So for a hefe, cold crashing would actually be undesirable?

 

[beerloaf]

I tend to follow the cold crash method for a lot of my Belgians by following the original brewers style. They don't just cold crash for "clarity" but also due to fermentation and cleanup still taking place but at a much slower pace. I also see it as batch conditioning. I do not let it warm up to room temps when I bottle. I bottle at whatever temp I'm cold crashing at and let it warm up on its own over a few days. Never had any issues with it yet. You do not have to bottle at 70*F. It just has to sit there for a few weeks at that temp to carb. I also cold crash in the primary. I have a Duvel clone sitting in the fridge as we speak and that one is going to be there for 3 weeks total.

I do not like to see people give new brewers misinformation simply because they do not know enough about a subject/disagree with, or do not practice a certain style of brewing. It doesn't help anyone.

beerloaf

 

[beerloaf]

Since I have a closely related question, I'll piggy back it on this thread.

So for a hefe, cold crashing would actually be undesirable?

Yes if you are going for original style due to most everything will fall out of suspension during cold crashing.

beerloaf

 

[YeastHerder]

Thanks beerloaf!

I pitched Saturday, had first signs of fermentation within about 5 hours, and am 4 days in now. All seems to be going smoothly and just trying to plan ahead for this, my first, brew.

So if I understand correctly, cold crashing is mostly for cosmetics? And similar clean up and conditioning (which appear to be separable from the clarity effect of cold crashing?) can be achieved by leaving it in the primary for a total of 2 to 3 weeks?

Since the noob guide elsewhere on this site left cold crashing out, I just want to make sure I'm not skipping a step. Feedback is much appreciated!