Coffin keezer questions to those who have built one

[Gsx1300rk6]

Hello everyone I'm a long time lurker and I've finally decided to take the plunge and get rid of the bottles for a keezer. After negotiations with swmbo was agreed could build a small one for the kitchen. I scored a working holiday 5cu freezer for $25 and the muscle to get it out the house. I started building the 10" collar and frame over the weekend and was wondering if 1/2 birch would be sufficient to use as a lid using 3/4 iso board insulation. Most I've seen use the factory lid but I'm thinking later negotiations could get a larger freezer and could repurpose this as a fermenter to do lagers so wanting to keep the factory lid in one piece. Also going to be using two 120mm fans to circulate air through the coffin. I've also seen mixed responses on check valves for the gas system. I'll be running three secondary regulators for co2 side two for taps one for force carbing also one nitrigen regulator for stout tap and wondering if they are really needed for each gas line if kegs are never over filled shaken or tipped? If there's any other quirks with a coffin keezer or experiences would like to share please feel free. In my lurking I've read many very informative threads that has helped me over the years with various things so appreciate any feedback

 

[rwc_617]

How big/heavy will the coffin be? That will drive how strong the lid needs to be. If you want to preserve the factory lid, just abandon the coffin and bring the taps out the front. If you really like the coffin approach, remember that when you open the lid it will hit the wall behind the keezer unless it is on wheels and you first pull it away from the wall. Then think about how tall wheels+platform+freezer+10"-collar+lid will be. Bigger wheels will let it roll easier (carpet? smooth floor? rough floor?) but they will make it taller. A 10" collar sounds like overkill but I assume you need the height to put one keg on the compressor hump. Consider how high you want to lift a full keg. I ripped 2x8s down to about 6.25" to get them square then capped the collar with 0.75" wood to protect the insulation from clumsy people like me. So this 7" collar gives more than enough room above my kegs, all on the floor. Your 120mm fans should work just fine. Your selection of regulators and manifolds are a battle between your pocket book and your desire for flexibility. Simplest would be to run one regulator into a 4-product manifold. If you want to force carb a serving pressure you can speed it up by feeding the gas through the liquid post so that it bubbles up through the beer from the bottom of the keg. Lots of threads on HBT on how to do that. A check valve is a must for that and I'm not sure how they are a liability on the other lines. For the beer lines, long and skinny is best. 3/16" ID, 12' long. You can always shorten but you can't make it longer. Mine are super-stiff Ultra-Bev and if I did it over I would use John Guest fittings instead of barbed stainless which were a pain with that line. Good luck with your build!
<https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=597064>

 

[Gsx1300rk6]

Appreciate all the information. I already have the regulators tanks two perlick 650ss flow control taps and a stainless taprite stout tap. I also went with 100ft of the bev seal ultra 3/16 with the John guests for the tubing as I've heard about the pain with the barbs. I had bought my stainless shanks before learned this so I do have to fight with them on the shack side but 3 better than 6 lol. Also that longer runs would be needed to balance the system. The keezer will be on hardwood floor and I built a double frame somewhat for the bottom which lifts the freezer only an inch from the floor but uses 3" heavy duty rubber swivel wheels with locks. I'm a tall guy so the collar height isn't horrible. I've been debating on cutting down but don't have problems lifting the kegs up over it. i just happened to have an oak 2x10 left over in the shop. I may still cut it down but there's kids always in and out of the house and as I did purchase tap locks the added height makes me feel little more comfortable. Main thing wasnt sure if the wood using the r6 iso board would insulate enough I have two 3/4 layers on the collar and was planning on doing the same on the lid with same inside the coffin. I have some 1 inch foam airseal strip tape left over from installing some windows was going to use between the lid and collar. Strength wise don't think the 1/2 be to bad since ill be using some left over marble vinyl as the bartop instead of tile or stone. I'm pretty sure I'm over thinking and over building but I have two full sheets of 1/2 and 1/4 birch each while the 1/4 planning on skinning with just didn't want to go buy anything thicker for the lid if wouldn't make any difference. Trying to use up some of the left over materials that's taking up shop space. Also i may just buy shutoff valves with check valves and put on regulators going to the gas connects to have ease of mind.