Co2 Regulator Wye?

[enormous13]

Hey Guys, so this is probably a pretty dumb question, but it's regarding if a primary regulator has a Wye on it, (like: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...aw0Uogzmx0iqCdTI2-VC-HXD&ust=1515038283642803 ).

Then, would both outputs on the wye need to be tubed and at least closed off by ball lock (etc.)? Or, do those small ball valves/check valves provide enough assurance against leaking Co2? Are there any extra precautions I could take to prevent Co2 leaks at those ball valves/check valves with how the gas will be set up, like so:

I'm thinking of doing my tank outside of the fridge, using a primary regulator on it with a wye. One line of that wye would run into the fride to carbonate kegs (multi-gauge secondary). The other line fo the wye stays outside the fridge for an accessible "utility line".

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[SanPancho]

Should be fine. To test it set the reg to 30psi then close tank supply. Come back in few hours. IF the pressure held, no leaks. Ball valves are ok but ball/check valves better

 

[mongoose33]

I do exactly that with part of my setup. I've found the little valves work on mine; I had a leak for a while, eventually traced it to the Quick Disconnect on my utility line. Tightening it solved that.

In the pic below, you can see the double-regulator and the little valves; one goes into the refrigerator to carb kegs I might have in there (force carb, or overflow serving). The other, the red line, goes to my utility line where I can use it to purge a keg with star-san, or attach some open tubing to the line so I can flush a fermenter or whatever.

You can see that the utility line is off, while the other carbing a keg in the refrigerator is on.

 

[enormous13]

I do exactly that with part of my setup. I've found the little valves work on mine; I had a leak for a while, eventually traced it to the Quick Disconnect on my utility line. Tightening it solved that.

In the pic below, you can see the double-regulator and the little valves; one goes into the refrigerator to carb kegs I might have in there (force carb, or overflow serving). The other, the red line, goes to my utility line where I can use it to purge a keg with star-san, or attach some open tubing to the line so I can flush a fermenter or whatever.

You can see that the utility line is off, while the other carbing a keg in the refrigerator is on.

View attachment 552205

View attachment 552204

Great to hear! Sounds like I'll be pullling the trigger on a primary reg with the wye later today. Thank you for your help on this one.

How'd you go about "injecting" the co2 line into that fridge? Looks like in the pic those are the QDs you were referencing. I know some folks just drill out a hole and feed the line into the interior, then fill it with something like expanding foam, but I'm looking into maybe a cleaner install.

 

[mongoose33]

Great to hear! Sounds like I'll be pullling the trigger on a primary reg with the wye later today. Thank you for your help on this one.

How'd you go about "injecting" the co2 line into that fridge? Looks like in the pic those are the QDs you were referencing. I know some folks just drill out a hole and feed the line into the interior, then fill it with something like expanding foam, but I'm looking into maybe a cleaner install.

They're bulkhead shanks. They use mfl fittings (think swivel nuts) to connect on either side of the refrigerator. They come in different lengths, here are the ones I used:

https://www.chicompany.net/common-i...k-2-7-8-long?zenid=79meqg23pr4ntuvg0av9sk1155

I have two of them, one to pass CO2 into the refrigerator to carb kegs; the other is to feed CO2 out from the refrigerator to CO2-harvesting jars.

They're pricey buggers; can't see why they should cost what they do, but I wanted that simple and elegant solution to moving gas into and out of the refrigerator.

 

[enormous13]

They're bulkhead shanks. They use mfl fittings (think swivel nuts) to connect on either side of the refrigerator. They come in different lengths, here are the ones I used:

https://www.chicompany.net/common-i...k-2-7-8-long?zenid=79meqg23pr4ntuvg0av9sk1155

I have two of them, one to pass CO2 into the refrigerator to carb kegs; the other is to feed CO2 out from the refrigerator to CO2-harvesting jars.

They're pricey buggers; can't see why they should cost what they do, but I wanted that simple and elegant solution to moving gas into and out of the refrigerator.

View attachment 552251 View attachment 552253

Perfect, those are a great solution.

Found this thread on HBT (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/keezer-gas-bulkhead-solution.464092/) using the same bulkhead, with all the hardware listed out in the first post with a picture. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you went with SS QD's (male and female) on the inside and outside connected to your hosing with some oetiker clamps?

 

[mongoose33]

Perfect, those are a great solution.

Found this thread on HBT (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/keezer-gas-bulkhead-solution.464092/) using the same bulkhead, with all the hardware listed out in the first post with a picture. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you went with SS QD's (male and female) on the inside and outside connected to your hosing with some oetiker clamps?

They're not stainless quick-disconnects where the tubing connects to the bulkhead shank. They're swivel nuts. Like these:

https://www.chicompany.net/index.ph...ducts_id=594&zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

You use one on the end that connects to the bulkhead shank; I use Quick Disconnects that have MFL fittings, so I use them on the other end of the tubing as well. Like these:

https://www.chicompany.net/beer-sto...-gas-mfl-end?zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

You need the little nylon washer when you connect to a bare metal end like the little ball-valve shutoffs, but the Quick Disconnects already have a plastic insert incorporated with them, so you don't need the nylon washer.

https://www.chicompany.net/common-i...ting-washers?zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

The small clear one is what you need for these.

 

[enormous13]

They're not stainless quick-disconnects where the tubing connects to the bulkhead shank. They're swivel nuts. Like these:

https://www.chicompany.net/index.ph...ducts_id=594&zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

You use one on the end that connects to the bulkhead shank; I use Quick Disconnects that have MFL fittings, so I use them on the other end of the tubing as well. Like these:

https://www.chicompany.net/beer-sto...-gas-mfl-end?zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

You need the little nylon washer when you connect to a bare metal end like the little ball-valve shutoffs, but the Quick Disconnects already have a plastic insert incorporated with them, so you don't need the nylon washer.

https://www.chicompany.net/common-i...ting-washers?zenid=7qf7mf7o7abf9520edejci6uu7

The small clear one is what you need for these.

Got it, now I understand how all the hardware works in your picture. Thank you for the help on this one!

 

[enormous13]

Just in case anyone else is interested in this kind of setup, I found another good thread on using a bulkhead going through the sidewall of a fridge, specifically post #5 with the pics (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...bulkhead-fitting-for-gas.601063/#post-7874250).

Off to blow some cash now.

 

[mongoose33]

Just in case anyone else is interested in this kind of setup, I found another good thread on using a bulkhead going through the sidewall of a fridge, specifically post #5 with the pics (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...bulkhead-fitting-for-gas.601063/#post-7874250).

Off to blow some cash now.

Heh heh.....and he thinks this is the end of it.