CO2 regulator question

[Duane]

Am I right in saying that, with the gas line connected and open, I CAN increase the regulator pressure at any time, BUT CANNOT reduce the regulator pressure (no matter how much I turn the screw counter-clockwise) without first closing the regulator valve and releasing the higher pressure in my keg headspace?

Or is it indeed possible to reduce regulator pressure even with a higher pressure pushing back at it from the keg headspace?

Brand new at kegging and trying to figure out how this works. Googling hasn't been very helpful.

Thanks!

 

[beernutz]

You can reduce the regulator pressure but you run the risk of liquid coming back into your gas line if the keg is so full that the bottom of the gas tube in immersed. I am speaking from experience.

 

[day_trippr]

If you do not have an "anti-backflow valve" between regulator and keg, your supposition would be correct, and the low pressure gauge will "see" the keg pressure if you crank down the regulator...

Cheers!

 

[Duane]

Ok! Follow up hypothetical question:

Keg 1 liquid is carbonated to 10 lbs of pressure. Keg 2 liquid to 20 lbs of pressure. If I shut off the main valve to the cylinder but open up both gas valves to the regulator, the regulator will read the medium (15 lbs) and gas will flow freely over time between kegs until the liquid in both kegs are at 15 lbs. Am I right?


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[day_trippr]

Again assuming the lack of back flow preventing valves, the head space pressures will indeed equalize, and in the example given the net pressure will read 15 psi.

As for the beers, it would take some time for their carbonation levels to equalize - but they eventually would...

Cheers!

 

[Duane]

Thanks! I can't say for certain that I do not have a back flow preventing valve, but I suspect that is the case. I over-carbonated my first keg. I'm in the process now of trying to relieve some of the pressure in that liquid, but in the mean time, in order to continue enjoying my beverage, I have to slow dispensing speed down to a trickle (just a couple pounds of pressure) to prevent excessive foaming. However, when I leave the regulator for a period of time at 3-4 pounds then check it again after sitting that way overnight, I find the low pressure gauge reading 20 lbs again. I can only assume that means gas is being pushed back into the regulator.

Thanks again. I'm learning a lot.

 

[Duane]

Here's the latest enigma: my tank is feeding 12# of pressure into my regulator even though it's not hooked up to any kegs and the regulator is dialed down as far as I can turn it. When I open up a line the pressure immediately drops to zero, of course, but when I close it it creeps back up to 12# every time.

Any thoughts, anyone? Only thing I can think of is the regulator screw is stuck. I'll try forcing it next (with main valve closed). But is there any other explanation for why this is happening?


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[day_trippr]

Anything you can think of that might have prompted such behavior - or is it possible this problem was always extant and you only just discovered it?

Creep can happen when a tiny bit of crud wedges in the regulator needle valve/seat interface. You can try blasting that out. I don't know if a diaphragm failure causes creep or just a full on peg-the-needle overpressure situation - never had the pleasure...

Cheers!

 

[Duane]

Turns out the screw was just stuck and needed a bunch of pressure. It's strange. I seem to have to use a lot of strength to get the screw to turn in any direction. Should I remove the screw and hit it with WD-40?

Now the whole thing is acting strange (to me) in another way. With valves to kegs closed I can set the regulator pressure to whatever I need now (with some blood and sweat). But when I open the valve to the tank the needle drops to zero and only rises again to a couple pounds of pressure. Can't find a leak anywhere, though there shouldn't be one because this is a keg I've had attached and working just fine until now (I'm on my last pint or two).

No need to keep answering my questions. You've been too kind and patient. I'm sure I'll figure everything out by trial and error.

Best


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[day_trippr]

Aw, shucks, this is just background noise to the hockey game

I'd put some kind of lubricant on the regulator pressure screw before it galls. I had to do the same to all of my regulators - for whatever reason they all come dry as a bone and they will get cranky with time if you don't lube them first. I use a "dry" silicone lube from a spray can with the plastic wand then exercise the screw the full travel (or close to it) before setting it back to the desired pressure.

Don't know about the kegs - other than there was a lot of head space at low pressure...

Cheers!

 

[Duane]

Thanks! I was just running back to my computer to tell you I think I have all my problems fixed to keep you from going through the trouble of responding.

1/2 wrench worked like a charm to move my sticky regulator screw. I also used some WD-40 on it. Don't think it'll be a problem again.

Also kicked the keg that was making my regulator act weird. You're probably right re. the headspace at low pressure (though I couldn't hear any hissing). When I moved the gas line to a full keg I didn't have any issues.

All in a all a pretty rough first experience with kegging, but I THINK I'm getting the hang of it.

Can't thank you enough for all the help!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Good job, Duane!

And just for future reference, don't count on WD-40 as a "lubricant". per Se, as it's actually a better solvent than a lube.

Get some lightweight oil for needs such as this, or even some mineral oil, as they will last longer than WD-40 .