CO2 Regulator Adjustment Screw Too Tight

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KookyBrewsky

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How can I tackle this?

There's about 3lbs of CO2 left in the tank. I thought I might've been out because beer wasn't flowing, but I weighed it and the adjustment screw seems to be crazy tight. No way can I adjust it easily with a flat head, I have to stick to using a wrench and attaching it to the adjustment nut.

High pressure device of course, disassembly seems sketchy. I just want to know if there's any notable way to make it easier to turn. I used the tiniest bit of of DOW111 to see if it'd help loosen things, but no luck.

This is an old regulator someone gave me, it's worked fine for some years, and I inevitably want to upgrade, but I'd still like to get this one in shape.

Regards
 
Can you post a picture? From your description it sounds like you expect it to pass gas with the adjustment screwed tightly in, which means 'closed'...does the output gauge says there's pressure?
 
First off, are you sure you have the co2 in the tank still? The tare weight on the tank does not include the regulator weight. With the regulator off, crack open the co2 tank a bit and see if it hisses as co2 escapes. Also, what is the make/model of the regulator. I'm sure there are others on this site who have experience with your model. Maye attach a pic too.
 
It still has room in both directions to rotate. Sorry, can't get a pic now, it's not butted up against the nut, nor too far out, should theoretically be right around the middle.

The CO2 tanks are identical, I weighed them both and compared them, one is 3lbs heavier. There is still CO2 in it, it hissed.
 
The adjustment screw might have galled the bonnet threads...

I used a bit of this buster spray on the showing part of the screw. I unscrewed it as far as it would go and cleaned it well. It's turning "somewhat" easily now. I tightened it all the way in and the CO2 barely went up. The tare weight on the CO2 tanks is the same, and one was 3lbs heavier, precisely. It has been barely used. Beer flows out when the residual pressure in the keg allows it, nothing stuck there. No leaks anywhere.

The gas post and ball lock are clean... Valve was open.

Hmm...
 
That ain't right.
Remove the regulator, and open the cylinder valve for a short burst - and see if you get one or not...

Cheers!

I get plenty of burst.

I also get a large burst when I unscrew the regulator from the CO2 tank with everything shut off.
 
In that case I would suspect either the screw/bonnet threading is stripped so you're not actually changing the compression on the spring that drives the diaphragm into the valve cartridge...or the cartridge is defective...

Cheers!
 
Maybe I'm mis-interpreting what was written in a couple of posts above, but all regulators for all high pressure gasses I have ever used in my entire life, you screw in the adj to get more pressure out. That being said:

The regulator is a simple device. With the proper tools AND the regulator not attached to the pressure cylinder, you can unscrew the piece that the adj nut/bolt screws into. This is also how you inspect/replace the diaphragm (which typically last decades).

Once that piece is removed from the regulator body, just treat it like any other bolt screwing into something. Couple drops of oil might be all that it needs. Maybe you'll need to "chase" the female threads with a tap. Really not a big deal here.
 
Did you miss ^that^?

Cheers!

If you're talking to me, nope, didn't miss that. Did you miss this:

"the adjustment screw seems to be crazy tight. No way can I adjust it easily"

We don't have a clue where the adj screw is or what it is doing. Which is why it needs to be taken apart and properly serviced.
 
To the OP, @KookyBrewsky.
Is it possible beer has backed-up into the regulator at some point in time?
That could explain the needle valve, underneath the diaphragm, got stuck. The needle valve is the actual regulator, letting only a certain amount of gas through.
 
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