Cavitation from sight glass after pickup tube installation

[Bobby_M]

The design will work great. It's just a matter of build cost vs drilling a new 1/2" hole. Custom TC parts are pricey because there is a lot of linear weld length involved. You're looking at a 2" long spool with a 1/8" NPT half coupling welded into the side. Then a SS washer welded to the ID on one end and a piece of stainless tubing welded to the washer ID. It's probably a $60-80 piece.

 

[flyingpole]

I like the idea except for the dip tube you have in the design. Please do not use a dip tube with the Brew-Boss system. Dip tubes should not be used on systems with pump recirculation as it forces the pump to inhale sediment (TRUB) that can plug the holes in the COFI filter infusion tube or the sparge arm on BIAB models. Worse yet it can damage the pump impeller. The system was designed without a dip tube on purpose, for these reasons. I've had a few people request a dip tubes and for the life of me I can't figure out why one is wanted. It won't improve efficiency of the mash in any way (exactly the opposite if it plugs things up). The 1" of dead space on the bottom of the kettle prevents TRUB from entering the fermenter when draining as well. A dip tube would force the TRUB to be sucked right into the fermenter. Simply tipping the kettle slightly at the end of the drain into the fermenter gets any left over wort out without the risk of TRUB making the trip as well. Maybe I'm missing something as there seems to be appeal for the dip tube. Any feedback would be appreciated as if it makes sense I'd look at offering the device drawn out here.

Relative to the sight glass on the valve. I added the option of a sight glass originally as a weldless device that required people to drill a hole in the kettle to mount it. People did not like that design, so I added one inline with the valve on the pump output. Every pump supplied with the Brew-Boss system is equipped with a flow restriction valve. My experience has been that restricting the flow out of the pump does not affect mash efficiency but can slow the flow enough to prevent air getting sucked into the sight glass. Of course the sight glass will not show actual wort level when the pump is running. I personally don't use a sight glass, can't see a reason for one in a system that starts out with a full volume mash and it is just one more thing to clean and or break (glass). Are you using a dip tube now? If so, that could be the cause of the air getting sucked in through the sight glass, as the dip tube could be getting plugged up.

The best solution for you is to simply drill a hole and convert the sight glass to a weldless version. I can get you the parts to do that very cheaply.

Hope that helps!

Okay, I haven't seen this anywhere on the boards and based on everyone saying that utilizing 1 port for both a drain and a sight glass is a bad idea. This is the piece that needs to be made.

I don't have a lot of time at the moment so you just get a picture. Chicken scratch, like what my brain is made of. For those vendors reading this, your welcome. You all have new kits and components coming out in 2016. I put up the "keg tool" a few years back so, here's a new idea. Again, I'm not being an a$$ here. It's just the way the world works. An idea to help another person and someone will capitalize on it if they can. Just is. Look at electric brewing kits and components.

The pic is of a triclover setup since this thread is about a brew boss kettle. I'm going to think some more about an off the shelf pipe components build of this. Hopefully it will not require much soldering or welding like this picture. I'm not sure off hand if a section of pipe would be needed if one were to use a long flange ferrule. There might be enough room for the sight glass port.

The sight glass port could be setup to be in any direction really. Straight up, off to one side 90 degrees for a little more water level reading, or out the bottom if one wanted and with a a couple 90's a much lower level reading. This will not require any mods to the sight glass as it is just reading the fluid level. With say a 1" dip tube assembly in a 1 1/2" triclover piece. There will be space all around the dip tube making the two separate as well as there won't be any flow going by the sight glass to cause any false readings.

Any questions, ask

 

[flyingpole]

The dip tube is causing your issue. Ditch the dip tube please!

\

Hey Guys!

I have recently purchased the 15 gallon brew-boss system. I have run some wet tests and one smash brew on it but I didn't like the loss in the kettle below the tri-clamp fitting so I ordered a 1" pickup tube for it.

I had to trim down the tube in order for it to fit but it is pretty snug on the bottom of the kettle.

I performed a wet test last night and the minute I turned on the pump I had a cavitation. I realized that it was coming from the top of the sight glass so I put a piece of duct tape on it and then everything worked fine.

Obviously the path of least resistance occured but would be ok to just run this way?

A couple of concerns I have:

1. That I am putting to much stress on the march pump.
2. During the mash or brewing cycle since there is such a low clearance that it would clog.
3. Do I need to get a better clearence on the pickup tube?

I have attached pictures of my system and the pickup tube.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Rex

 

[30Bones]

That's a bullsh!t accusation if I've ever read one and that's all I'll say about that because you are being an a$$.

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

I think 99% of Darin's (brewboss) choices are awesome and I like the whole system in every way besides this one design hiccup. I get asked constantly if you can put one of my sightglasses inline with a drain and I always recommend against it whether I stand to lose a sale or not.

Exactly! A friends system WAS setup in this manor and he has since changed it up.

Also to the OP, having your dip tube that close to the bottom isn't really needed. All you will do is suck up more protein and hop sludge into the carboy. Not a bad thing at all, but it's not critical to get every drop out of the BK. Nice rig!

 

[GreenMonti]

Fantastic idea!

Thank you

Yeah, that's a cool idea Monti. Only thing that might be a pain is cleaning it but hey, part of the job right.

Thank you. I wondered about cleaning but being triclover. I figured it would be simple if a scrubbing was needed. I'd think a tooth brush or some sort of brush would get in there pretty easy.

 

[GreenMonti]

The design will work great. It's just a matter of build cost vs drilling a new 1/2" hole. Custom TC parts are pricey because there is a lot of linear weld length involved. You're looking at a 2" long spool with a 1/8" NPT half coupling welded into the side. Then a SS washer welded to the ID on one end and a piece of stainless tubing welded to the washer ID. It's probably a $60-80 piece.

I never said it would be cheap. I think we all know that there are those that would pay for it. Look at element housings. Several options at different price points. Yet they do the same thing. The bits and pieces could be sold and soldered at home too. I also thought about the bling factor. There's a lot going in that direction and one less hole could change things in someone's mind. Or even a weld less fitting if said person is one that has to have things welded. Lots to consider. I also mentioned trying to make the idea work with just pipe fittings, that would require less custom work.
Does your weldor or you charge for welds by the inch? I've never heard anyone put weld cost in terms of linear length.

I like the idea except for the dip tube you have in the design. Please do not use a dip tube with the Brew-Boss system. Dip tubes should not be used on systems with pump recirculation as it forces the pump to inhale sediment (TRUB) that can plug the holes in the COFI filter infusion tube or the sparge arm on BIAB models. Worse yet it can damage the pump impeller. The system was designed without a dip tube on purpose, for these reasons. I've had a few people request a dip tubes and for the life of me I can't figure out why one is wanted. It won't improve efficiency of the mash in any way (exactly the opposite if it plugs things up). The 1" of dead space on the bottom of the kettle prevents TRUB from entering the fermenter when draining as well. A dip tube would force the TRUB to be sucked right into the fermenter. Simply tipping the kettle slightly at the end of the drain into the fermenter gets any left over wort out without the risk of TRUB making the trip as well. Maybe I'm missing something as there seems to be appeal for the dip tube. Any feedback would be appreciated as if it makes sense I'd look at offering the device drawn out here.

Relative to the sight glass on the valve. I added the option of a sight glass originally as a weldless device that required people to drill a hole in the kettle to mount it. People did not like that design, so I added one inline with the valve on the pump output. Every pump supplied with the Brew-Boss system is equipped with a flow restriction valve. My experience has been that restricting the flow out of the pump does not affect mash efficiency but can slow the flow enough to prevent air getting sucked into the sight glass. Of course the sight glass will not show actual wort level when the pump is running. I personally don't use a sight glass, can't see a reason for one in a system that starts out with a full volume mash and it is just one more thing to clean and or break (glass). Are you using a dip tube now? If so, that could be the cause of the air getting sucked in through the sight glass, as the dip tube could be getting plugged up.

The best solution for you is to simply drill a hole and convert the sight glass to a weldless version. I can get you the parts to do that very cheaply.

Hope that helps!

Hello Darin,
Like I mentioned in our e mails. I don't brew with the brew boss system. (I'd just like others to know this) The idea was meant to help out the OP of the thread as well as others that might want to have only one port welded into their kettle. Sometimes finding a good weldor is hard to do and not cheap. So the fewer fittings to weld in, the better. Also, this being a general posting. Other brewers aren't so worried about running small bits through their pumps as they have different pieces of equipment that aren't as sensitive. Maybe you could omit the dip tube? I'm not sure if the drawing would work better (without the dip tube) then what's offered now or not. I'd think it would be more accurate, maybe not?

You've got a great product that can be offered in many configurations to accommodate a great number of people. Well done.

 

[GreenMonti]

A little more thought,
I wonder if a smaller input/feed hole to the sight glass would help? What I mean is, say the reduction bushing (if there is one) had a small hole in it like the cap on top of the sight glass to vent it. If that would help alleviate the Venturi effect. its still open, you'll still get a reading. Just not as much pressure differential while liquid is flowing past it........


Another idea,
The OP could turn the whole mess on its side (90 degrees) and install a small valve (a 90 will also be required) and just shut off the sight glass all together when not wanted. Could leave it as is too, it just won't read as low on the kettle.