Bru'n Water help

[wapitiscat]

I'm messing with my water profile for Yooper's Oatmeal Stout and don't know why the Additions cells are staying red. It looks like all the adjustments for the Actual finished water are in line with the Target. According to the pop-up dialog, the additions cells turn red when the target and actual are more than 10 ppm different.

Todd

 

[Yooper]

I haven't used bru'nwater lately, and I can't remember why the cells turn red.

Regardless, I'd ditch all of the additions except for the calcium chloride. You don't need the magnesium at all, and you don't want the sulfate. Bring the chloride to 50-75 ppm, and the mash pH to 5.5 or so, and you'd be good!

 

[jddevinn]

What version of Bru'n Water do you have? There was an error in the highlighting in a recent version. See link.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7554149&postcount=16

 

[wapitiscat]

I have version 3.4 with a 4/18/2015 date stamp at the bottom of the Instructions Sheet.Martins comment about the incorrect formula is later than this so I think that's what the problem is.

 

[wapitiscat]

Thanks for the water profile suggestions Yoop. It never occurred to me to adjust the pH with the mash thickness. If I go to a mash of 1.7 qt/lb with the CaCl addition I get an estimated pH of 5.35.

I went back to your original recipe post and saw that you included your water profile. If I plug that into the spreadsheet as the target I can move my tap water to get pretty close to to all the minerals. I'm always low on Ca but it seems like getting the Cl (and SO4) carries more weight here.

Todd

 

[Murphys_Law]

I haven't used bru'nwater lately, and I can't remember why the cells turn red.

Regardless, I'd ditch all of the additions except for the calcium chloride. You don't need the magnesium at all, and you don't want the sulfate. Bring the chloride to 50-75 ppm, and the mash pH to 5.5 or so, and you'd be good!

Apologies for the thread jack but I have a somewhat related question as a follow up to your answer...

When you say you don't want the sulfate, are you saying in general or for this style? I notice some styles call for a LOT of sulfate (i.e. >200ppm). Also, if you're using RO or distilled (doesn't appear the OP is in this case) shouldn't you add some magnesium or will the grains supply a sufficient amount?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks for the water profile suggestions Yoop. It never occurred to me to adjust the pH with the mash thickness. If I go to a mash of 1.7 qt/lb with the CaCl addition I get an estimated pH of 5.35.

I went back to your original recipe post and saw that you included your water profile. If I plug that into the spreadsheet as the target I can move my tap water to get pretty close to to all the minerals. I'm always low on Ca but it seems like getting the Cl (and SO4) carries more weight here.

Todd

You don't need (or want) the sulfate, or the magnesium as malt as plenty of magnesium anyway. Yeast flocculation is better (resulting in clearer beer) with a Ca of 50+, but for a stout it really doesn't matter. I'd use only calcium chloride, to get the chloride to 50-75 ppm or so, and target a mash pH of 5.4-5.5 and not lower. I like a roasty beer (although this one is not terribly roasty) mashed at a higher mash pH than lighter beers like pale ales. I'd go with the "less is more" approach here, and simply to get the chloride where it's desirable and a slightly higher mash pH.

Apologies for the thread jack but I have a somewhat related question as a follow up to your answer...

When you say you don't want the sulfate, are you saying in general or for this style? I notice some styles call for a LOT of sulfate (i.e. >200ppm). Also, if you're using RO or distilled (doesn't appear the OP is in this case) shouldn't you add some magnesium or will the grains supply a sufficient amount?

In a stout, or with noble hops like in a pilsner, sulfate can be an unpleasant flavor addition. Just like I don't put garlic in my apple pie, I don't like to add sulfate to my stouts (although a minimal amount will not be perceptible). In some stouts, say, like a dry stout, that dry finish could be great. But in this beer, I want a fuller mouthfeel and richness and higher sulfate would negate that.

Magnesium is never a needed addition, as malt does supply plenty. The only time it's generally added is if you're increasing the sulfate and the calcium is already high and so you can add epsom salts, or for that "sour, dry" flavor that you may want in some IPAs (I don't).

 

[murphyslaw]

Apologies for the thread jack but I have a somewhat related question as a follow up to your answer...

When you say you don't want the sulfate, are you saying in general or for this style? I notice some styles call for a LOT of sulfate (i.e. >200ppm). Also, if you're using RO or distilled (doesn't appear the OP is in this case) shouldn't you add some magnesium or will the grains supply a sufficient amount?

Hello, brother. In Palmer's water book he says, like you suggest, that the grain gives you all the magnesium you need, in most cases.

Sulfate accentuates bitterness. So its commonly used at higher levels in IPAs, but not stouts. (edit: or I guess yooper beat me to it and clarified that it could be used in some stouts.)

 

[Murphys_Law]

Hello, brother. In Palmer's water book he says, like you suggest, that the grain gives you all the magnesium you need, in most cases.

Sulfate accentuates bitterness. So its commonly used at higher levels in IPAs, but not stouts. (edit: or I guess yooper beat me to it and clarified that it could be used in some stouts.)

Hey, did I just answer myself?

 

[wapitiscat]

Hey, did I just answer myself?

Any post that can be self verified, will be self verified.

-- Murphy's_murphy's Law