Brewery Redesign...

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benbradford

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I have been brewing for years and about a year ago I thought that I was done with my setup. Upon further conversation with a commercial brewer, I realized that I could further improve on my design.

I currently have a 5 vessel setup. It has essentially 2 bk's and 2 mt's (all keg conversions). Each boil kettle has center dip tube, dial thermo, sight glass, herms coil, and 2 120v electric heating elements(3000w). Each mt is fitted with a false bottom and dial thermo. The 5th vessel is a converted 7.75 short keg that sits above the mt's for expanded mash space for high gravity beers and for sparging.

My stand also includes 2 pumps(1 chugger and 1 march). I chill using a convolutus chiller.

Allright, here are my concerns. I currently do not have a process for whirlpoolling. I would like to add a rims tube that could be cross utilized on either bk for faster temp rises.

Another thought is that a professional brewery runs on essentially a 4 vessel system that starts with a hlt tank(kept at constant 170) and blended with cold water when necessary to add water at any temp desired. I am considering modifying one of my mt's to be a designated lauter tank and mt seperate. This would be a gravity setup with a 1" valve to allow the full mash to be transferred. I would be able to eventually add a motorized mash paddle to lauter tun and a more sophisticated sparge setup to mt. Finally I would like to add a whirlpool in and out on the bk's for creating cleaner wort into chiller.

I just read about a hopback prechiller that could be filled with rice hulls for filtering that sounds interesting also.

In a further attempt to plan my stand, I am interested in switching from single tier to multi tier and implement some gravity transfers.

I would also have to have a cold water vessel for blending since I usually use some combination of filtered and treated water.

here is a pic of my setup now.

The 7.75 5th tank is not pictured but it isn't that complicated.

brewery8.jpg


a4.jpg
 
I have changed things a bit where the pumps are not hidden inside stand and are now mounted on front of stand for ease of access(the chugger tends to scream and stop working if not opened and lubed periodically.
 
I currently brew 2 twelve gallon batches simultaneously. It ends up being around a 9 hour brew day. At some point I usually get out of sync and end up staggering everything threw chiller at end anyway.

Pro breweries seperate the mash and luater tun so that they can mash in every 3 hours or so. Designating seperate tanks allows a production line setup. Also, would provide space for seperate mash motor and sparge arm.
 
Their mash tun is more sophisticated and expensive than a keg with a false bottom so a lauter tun is used mainly for cost savings assuming they only do infusion mashing.

Maybe I'm missing a detail, but I don't understand how mashing in one keg twice and transferring to a lauter tun (I assume also a keg) is better than mashing in two keg mash/lauter tuns. Also, how is there more space for a mash motor and sparge arm?
 
I am struggling with this also. This thread is setup to try to flesh out thoughts with the pros and cons of ideas.

i feel like a motorized mash paddle may hinder access to mash tun. Also i am not sure that there would be ample space above tank for both motorized paddle and sparge arm.
 
I plan on wrapping my mashtun like yours, can I get some closeup pics of how you wrapped it and what banding you used? Thanks!
 
after working with these for a year or so now, I am not sure that I would wrap it in wood after all. I believe that it may add a very minor amount of insulation, but not much.

I initially did this for aesthetics, but the cleanliness of it is a bit of a chore. I suppose if I had a floor drain and a hose to clean it, it wouldn't be a problem.

Here is a link to my build thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/who-needs-blichmann-when-you-can-build-bradford-327817/
 
How about making the mash motor assembly removable (mount it to a cover) and the same for the lautering arm setup?

Where is your sparge water coming from?

When I started reading your thread I expected your 5 vessel setup to be 2 MLTs and 2 BKs and 1 HLT with dual HERMS coils. That's what I would setup vs trying to deal with moving the mash to a second vessel, etc.

Also, for the volumes (10 gal batches) why not look into converting to 240V vs a 5th 120V line? (I read it that you had two separate 120V elements to each BK)

Good luck with whatever you do!
 
after working with these for a year or so now, I am not sure that I would wrap it in wood after all. I believe that it may add a very minor amount of insulation, but not much.

I initially did this for aesthetics, but the cleanliness of it is a bit of a chore. I suppose if I had a floor drain and a hose to clean it, it wouldn't be a problem.

Here is a link to my build thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/who-needs-blichmann-when-you-can-build-bradford-327817/

Thank you for your info, it helped me out a TON! cant wait to finish it up! https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/single-tier-rebuild-lots-fun-stuff-513049/#post6654223
 
I beleive that I am going to simply change the versatility of my setup.

If i remove 1 of the heating elements from each of the boil kettles, I will be able to wire 2 seperate rims tubes.

This would allow me to apply three elements to each of the bk's if necessary for increasing temperature climb. I would also be able to treat either bk as a hlt when desired. i am thinking of setting them up so that I will also be able to run them through a inline dial thermometer for using to measure output of rims or chiller.

This dial thermo inline setup would also allow me to blend water from the hlt and a cold water reservoir.

This is a picture of what is the inspiration.

hbt-chillwizard-1612.jpg
 
so i discovered that the above picture is a brewmagic chill wizard.

I also discovered this rims wizard on their website.

I was pondering how to design each of these things for my brewery to aid in the movement of water from vessel to vessel fast and at the right temps.

b7.jpg
 
my design would be a manual version without a pid. I would open and close a valve while looking at a dial thermo to control flow and temp.
 

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