Brewer's Edge Mash & Boil

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jlinz said:
Yeah, I have. I got reimbursed for the robobrew though and I’m hoping I will with the Grainfather. But man, I want one of these electric units without having things go wrong!
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I've read about people online and you tube that have done 100 brews on the Gf. My aunt has had hers for years and has done countless brews without a single problem. I'm crossing my fingers on my Gf . Imo those things are too pricey to have issues
 
owmatooth said:
I try hard to keep things simple. I set the heat to 154. when it reaches temp I pour my grains into a wilserbrewer bag and stir to remove clumps. then I wrap a sleeping bag over the whole thing and leave it for an hour. It drops a bit and the heater kicks in once or twice over the hour, I'm not worried about it. Then I lift the bag with the collander and set it above the m&b to drain into the kettle while the temp is coming up to boiling. Its designed with little bolts sticking out to rest on the rim. Since I lose a little water with the adsorption of the grains, I add a bit of semi hot water through the bag to rinse the grains. After the 60 minute boil I use an immersion chiller to get the temp down. I use a recirc pump in my old 10 gal pot to push ice water through the chiller. since i'm in florida that will get me down to 70 degrees in about 30 minutes. I pitch the yeast pop the lock on it and set it in a walmart bucket half filled with water and I float 3-4 frozen water bottles to keep the temp down in high 60's. (i gotta get another fridge). Primary for 3 weeks, cold crash and rack to keg. 3 days at 25 psi and it's good to go.
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Hello looking to do a setup similar to yours. Do you know what measurements you gave wilser for your bag? I don’t have the unit yet. Also, ever any issues with the bag scorching when the mash and boil kicks back on to heat during the mash? Thanks!
 
Overjoyed to have found this thread! I love my Brewer's Edge, and have been using it since I moved into an apartment a year ago. I'm using mine very differently though... I had an All-Grain setup using a 10G Igloo Mash Tun, and a 10G HLT. I didn't have to give those up moving into the apartment, so I use the BE in conjunction with those too. I use the BE to hit my strike water temp, fill the mash-tun, and seal it. Heat the sparge water in the unit, and pull off any water for boiling on the stove for my mash-out. This gives me control in the standard 3-tier all-grain method of fly sparging from HLT into the tun, which is filling the Brewer's Edge, which I start to boil as soon as I have a few gallons of wort collected. A bit of a bastard's approach, but I find it gives me total control of the whole process, start to finish, the the built-in mash tun has been great for 10 pounds or less of grain for sure.

Glad to have found this!
 
Does anyone know if the inside end of the valve is a threaded female end (and what size it is)? I can’t tell just by feeling and want to attach bazooka screw filter. Has anyone attached any type of ball valve end filtration. Does it get in the way of the grain basket when submerged? Any recommendations on filtration.
 
Just opened one of these as a gift last night. It really seems like it will be a pretty solid upgrade to my stovetop biab set up. I think my wife's motive was to get me out of the kitchen during her workdays (she works from home, I try to brew when she's working so we can spend our rare joint free time together) and banish me to the basement/garage/deck. Looks like I finally have a solid reason to purchase a wort chiller as well.
I see the thread is a year old, but hopefully there's a few users still active that can answer my inevitable string of questions.

The rabbit hole gets deeper....
 
Immocles said:
Just opened one of these as a gift last night. It really seems like it will be a pretty solid upgrade to my stovetop biab set up. I think my wife's motive was to get me out of the kitchen during her workdays (she works from home, I try to brew when she's working so we can spend our rare joint free time together) and banish me to the basement/garage/deck. Looks like I finally have a solid reason to purchase a wort chiller as well.
I see the thread is a year old, but hopefully there's a few users still active that can answer my inevitable string of questions.

The rabbit hole gets deeper....
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That's the reason I got my wife to buy me one two (?) years ago or maybe it was just last year (re: step up from stove top). It will be a very welcomed upgrade; I assure you that.

I use my all the time : )

Edit - I take it you got the one without the re circulation pump?

1st upgrade recommended - swap out the basket for one of W's BIABs. I feel that if you don't have a pump the water doesn't do a good job penetrating the grain because the holes are only on the bottom and not up the sides a bit. Anyways, I feel the BIAB also makes cleaning up easier.

ps: You can get a fermentation lid for it should you wish to mail, boil, and ferment inside of it. I find it useful for temp maintaining when it's critical to a certain beer I'm making.

pps: You can distill in the device, too...not sure entirely what you have to buy, but some people have bought it.

ppps: There's an active Facebook user's group, too.
 
TwistedGray said:
That's the reason I got my wife to buy me one two (?) years ago or maybe it was just last year (re: step up from stove top). It will be a very welcomed upgrade; I assure you that.

I use my all the time : )

Edit - I take it you got the one without the re circulation pump?

1st upgrade recommended - swap out the basket for one of W's BIABs. I feel that if you don't have a pump the water doesn't do a good job penetrating the grain because the holes are only on the bottom and not up the sides a bit. Anyways, I feel the BIAB also makes cleaning up easier.

ps: You can get a fermentation lid for it should you wish to mail, boil, and ferment inside of it. I find it useful for temp maintaining when it's critical to a certain beer I'm making.

pps: You can distill in the device, too...not sure entirely what you have to buy, but some people have bought it.

ppps: There's an active Facebook user's group, too.
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Yep, no pump. I planned on ordering a wilser bag sometime before the new year. A new bag and a wort chiller immediately popped into my head upon unwrapping haha. I was considering keeping the bag inside of the pipe to making draining more convenient, though. I'm sure I could be talked out of that since I hadn't really considered the sides of the pipe were solid walls.

How is the steam output? I'm slightly worried about that causing havoc. Also may need to find a heavy duty extension cord.
 
Immocles said:
Yep, no pump. I planned on ordering a wilser bag sometime before the new year. A new bag and a wort chiller immediately popped into my head upon unwrapping haha. I was considering keeping the bag inside of the pipe to making draining more convenient, though. I'm sure I could be talked out of that since I hadn't really considered the sides of the pipe were solid walls.

How is the steam output? I'm slightly worried about that causing havoc. Also may need to find a heavy duty extension cord.
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Steam - I run it in the garage, but yah it puts out some steam. I don't it's much different than the stove top though.

Cord - check out their FAQ; there are types you can't/shouldn't use.

I rigged up a J hook in the garage about the M&B to tie off the bag so that it's hoisted above. It works well :)
 
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I'd prefer to keep everything in the basement, so hopefully that works out. I have a place scouted out to put it down there where I could hang a bag to drain should I go that route. I know enough electricians that getting an outlet hooked up in that spot should be no problem. Need to find an appropriate table to set it on though. Otherwise yep, there's always the garage, but that puts me back to the stove top in the winters. Hopefully I'm just being overly cautious because my wife isn't worried about steam. And she worries about everything, haha. Thanks for the info.

Do you do full volume, no sparge? This is my preference, as my batch sizes are usually 2.5 on my stove. I might increase that slightly to 3-3.25G though. Debating running a test boil sometime this evening to start creating a Beersmith profile.
 
Immocles said:
I'd prefer to keep everything in the basement, so hopefully that works out. I have a place scouted out to put it down there where I could hang a bag to drain should I go that route. I know enough electricians that getting an outlet hooked up in that spot should be no problem. Need to find an appropriate table to set it on though. Otherwise yep, there's always the garage, but that puts me back to the stove top in the winters. Hopefully I'm just being overly cautious because my wife isn't worried about steam. And she worries about everything, haha. Thanks for the info.

Do you do full volume, no sparge? This is my preference, as my batch sizes are usually 2.5 on my stove. I might increase that slightly to 3-3.25G though. Debating running a test boil sometime this evening to start creating a Beersmith profile.
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Just make sure you have easy access to the underside of it as you may have to flip the reset switch on the bottom.

Full volume; however I generally do small batches around the same volumes. I've done 5gal batches, too. Grain volume becomes an issue though.
 
Doing a lot of reading and researching here.
I figure I will get a bag sized to the kettle itself, not the pipe. Seems to me I'd rather have it slightly oversized for the pipe, than undersized for the kettle.
Any issues with errors constantly tripping when not using the pipe? Without the pipe, doesn't the grain bed just sit right on top of the heat element and cause scorching if/when the element kicks in?
 
Immocles said:
Doing a lot of reading and researching here.
I figure I will get a bag sized to the kettle itself, not the pipe. Seems to me I'd rather have it slightly oversized for the pipe, than undersized for the kettle.
Any issues with errors constantly tripping when not using the pipe? Without the pipe, doesn't the grain bed just sit right on top of the heat element and cause scorching if/when the element kicks in?
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I've had a few batches that constantly triggered the reset; however, I think I was running LARGE grain bills then. It only happened a few times for me, all during the same run.

But yah, try to keep the grain above the base.
 
Assuming my new (first!) immersion chiller shows up on time tomorrow, I plan on breaking in the first brew on my unit. I have an idea in mind for the short term when it comes to a stand/table, but really looking for something more convenient. Everything I have come across seems to be just a few inches too short, or way too tall for my liking. I think something in the 16-18 inches high range is about perfect for me height wise, and still be able to drain into my tallest fermenter. Wheels are probably mandatory as my brewing area and chilling area will probably be across the basement for the foreseeable future. I saw a link to a wheeled printer stand on an earlier post in this thread, but the ones I've seen have seemed flimsy for something that going to be full of boiling liquid. Does anyone have any suggestions for something that isn't custom built? Although, I'd appreciate the custom builds as well. I always do have beer to buy labor...
 
I use an old chair with a flat wooden seat. It's super stable and a good height for draining straight into my fermenter. I do have to use a small step stool to get high enough to lift out the grain pipe. The other thing I'd suggest is a hole so you can easily access the reset switch. I can't do this with the chair and had my first E4 error last brew. Fortunately it happened in the last 2 minutes of the boil otherwise it would have been a huge pain.

Cheers!
 
DSCF0435[1].JPG
Immocles said:
Assuming my new (first!) immersion chiller shows up on time tomorrow, I plan on breaking in the first brew on my unit. I have an idea in mind for the short term when it comes to a stand/table, but really looking for something more convenient. Everything I have come across seems to be just a few inches too short, or way too tall for my liking. I think something in the 16-18 inches high range is about perfect for me height wise, and still be able to drain into my tallest fermenter. Wheels are probably mandatory as my brewing area and chilling area will probably be across the basement for the foreseeable future. I saw a link to a wheeled printer stand on an earlier post in this thread, but the ones I've seen have seemed flimsy for something that going to be full of boiling liquid. Does anyone have any suggestions for something that isn't custom built? Although, I'd appreciate the custom builds as well. I always do have beer to buy labor...
Click to expand...

I got an elfa stand with wheels from the Container Store. It is 21" tall. That has worked really well for me.
 
Hi everyone! I’ve been using the Mash and Boil for a few batches now and now that I’m trying to “perfect” my beers a little bit more I’ve been starting to pay more attention to mash/spare volume and pre and post boil gravitates in a effort to make more consistent beers. The one issue that I’ve been noticing is that for the life of me I can’t collect the correct amount of wort using any calculator that I’ve found online.
For instance
Currently brewing a IPA with 13lbs of grain. I am trying to get a total of 6gal into the fermentor.
The calculator says I should be mashing with 4 gal and sparging with 6gal to get a total volume of 7.5 gal pre boil (assuming .25 gal to trub loss and 1 gal loss from the fermenter to the keg) which is obviously more then I would need to collect. But after adding the above stated amount I am still only ending up with 6.5 gal collected in the mash and boil (pre boil). Ideally I would have liked to have about 6.75 total pre boil so I would be able to get closer to 6 gal in the fermemter but it’s not the end of the world. Just very frustrating that I can’t get the numbers dialed in. After reading this thread I’ve seen people with similar grain bills using 4gal to mash and another 4 to sparge and coming up with 6.5 gal pre boil and I’m just not sure what I’m doing wrong.. :(

TLDR: I can’t get mash and sparge numbers to equal projected pre boil volume. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
 
Jag75 said:
Just add 1/4 gallon to your sparge. Does the M&B have a calculator in their book or do they have an app?
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I don’t think that they do. I’ve just been using a few different online calculators and always come up short (which is better then having too much since I can always just add a bit more water to the sparge) but I’d obviously like to be able to have some correct calculations before starting the brew day. I’m just not sure where I could be “loosing” about a gallon of pre boil volume or needing to add another 2 gal of sparge water depending on which calculator I use. Just one of those things that will bug me. Obviously making corrections while sparring isn’t an issue but I figured I’d ask if anyone had any ideas what I could be doing wrong that other people seem to be using similar calculators and collecting the correct amount of pre boil volume. As you said just add a 1/4 gal to the sparge but in the calculators eyes I should then have a volume of 7.75 gal when I would in reality have about 6.75. I just don’t know how people with similar grain bills (13lbs) use 8 gal to get to 6.5 gal pre boil and I have to use 10. Can grain crush factor in to this equation at all? Not sure what other variables there can really be if someone’s using the same system..
 
Your going off of a calculator . One that is probably just a general one . It really matters what your vessel does . Lots of notes will help you figure out your amounts to a T. Check out the Grainfather app . Maybe it's close to that of the M&B . My Gf boils off 1 gph. The app is dead on the amounts on every single beer .
 
@Heer4beer beer what are you using for the following; grain absorption, boil off, kettle trub loss?

preboil = mash water + sparge water - grain absorption - system losses(assume none in an all in one)

13lb of grain will absorb almost a 1.5gal unless you use a bag and squeeze it dry. Even when I squeeze the crap out of a bag I still get close to .1gal/pound grain absorption which is no where close to .6gal/pound some calculators use.

I put my hops in bags and a 5 gal batch of beer gives me a half gallon of settled trub. If you dump it all in the fermentor that will compact to maybe .25gal.

If you measure volume of hot water you need to account for expansion.
 
Heer4beer said:
Hi everyone! I’ve been using the Mash and Boil for a few batches now and now that I’m trying to “perfect” my beers a little bit more I’ve been starting to pay more attention to mash/spare volume and pre and post boil gravitates in a effort to make more consistent beers. The one issue that I’ve been noticing is that for the life of me I can’t collect the correct amount of wort using any calculator that I’ve found online.
For instance
Currently brewing a IPA with 13lbs of grain. I am trying to get a total of 6gal into the fermentor.
The calculator says I should be mashing with 4 gal and sparging with 6gal to get a total volume of 7.5 gal pre boil (assuming .25 gal to trub loss and 1 gal loss from the fermenter to the keg) which is obviously more then I would need to collect. But after adding the above stated amount I am still only ending up with 6.5 gal collected in the mash and boil (pre boil). Ideally I would have liked to have about 6.75 total pre boil so I would be able to get closer to 6 gal in the fermemter but it’s not the end of the world. Just very frustrating that I can’t get the numbers dialed in. After reading this thread I’ve seen people with similar grain bills using 4gal to mash and another 4 to sparge and coming up with 6.5 gal pre boil and I’m just not sure what I’m doing wrong.. :(

TLDR: I can’t get mash and sparge numbers to equal projected pre boil volume. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
Click to expand...
It does sound like there's something going on. What calculator are you using? I've used Brewers friends and biab calculator. Bru'n water will get you a pretty good number as well. I calculate my strike water with 1.7 qt/#. Then I'll heat up my sparge water with a little extra. I just sparge until I hit my desired volume. I use a biab bag inside the grain pipe. Letting the grain drain thoroughly and squeezing the bag gently will also help to get a little more wort into the kettle.
 
Jag75 said:
Your going off of a calculator . One that is probably just a general one . It really matters what your vessel does . Lots of notes will help you figure out your amounts to a T. Check out the Grainfather app . Maybe it's close to that of the M&B . My Gf boils off 1 gph. The app is dead on the amounts on every single beer .
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree I know it’s all different depending on the system that I’m using. I did realize my boil off number was slightly off I had it estimated at .5 gal per hour when it’s really closer to 1 gal per hour. I’ll Deff have to check out that app. Thank you.

ba-brewer said:
@Heer4beer beer what are you using for the following; grain absorption, boil off, kettle trub loss?

preboil = mash water + sparge water - grain absorption - system losses(assume none in an all in one)

13lb of grain will absorb almost a 1.5gal unless you use a bag and squeeze it dry. Even when I squeeze the crap out of a bag I still get close to .1gal/pound grain absorption which is no where close to .6gal/pound some calculators use.

I put my hops in bags and a 5 gal batch of beer gives me a half gallon of settled trub. If you dump it all in the fermentor that will compact to maybe .25gal.

If you measure volume of hot water you need to account for expansion.
Click to expand...


13lb grain bill
By the math: 4 (mash) + 6 (sparge)= 10 gal - absorption rate (X) pre boil gravity = 6.5 can “X” for absorption really be 3.5 gal? I think that seems very excessive

Coastalbrew said:
It does sound like there's something going on. What calculator are you using? I've used Brewers friends and biab calculator. Bru'n water will get you a pretty good number as well. I calculate my strike water with 1.7 qt/#. Then I'll heat up my sparge water with a little extra. I just sparge until I hit my desired volume. I use a biab bag inside the grain pipe. Letting the grain drain thoroughly and squeezing the bag gently will also help to get a little more wort into the kettle.
Click to expand...

I was using a calculator by morebeer and grain absorption was set at .13 and boil off was set to 10%.

When I switch the .13 for grain absorption to .6 (just to see) it just has me add another 5 gal of sparge water to compensate (saying I now need about 15 gal of water total to start)
 
Heer4beer said:
13lb grain bill
By the math: 4 (mash) + 6 (sparge)= 10 gal - absorption rate (X) pre boil gravity = 6.5 can “X” for absorption really be 3.5 gal? I think that seems very excessive
Click to expand...
Me too. Maybe there is a dead space value hidden somewhere in the calculator.

Preboil = package volume + boil off + kettle loss + fermentor loss
Assume .5gal lost to kettle trub
Assume 1gal/hr
Assume .5gal lost to fermentor trub
Assume 5gal packaged
Preboil = 5 + 1 + .5 + .5 = 7gal

Assume .12gal/pound 13lb will absorb 1.56gal. ​
mash + sparge = preboil + absorption = 7 + 1.56 = 8.5gal

Plug in your number for my assumptions and see what you get and how that matches to your last brews.

Every system is a bit different, just be consistent where you can and make adjustment as needed to find what works for you.

edit: the above assumes a batch sparge type situation, if you fly sparge then that is not enough, extra water(a few gallons maybe) is required and you need to control when you stop the drain.
 
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[QUOTE="Heer4beer, post: 8764423, member: 263484
I was using a calculator by morebeer and grain absorption was set at .13 and boil off was set to 10%.

When I switch the .13 for grain absorption to .6 (just to see) it just has me add another 5 gal of sparge water to compensate (saying I now need about 15 gal of water total to start)[/QUOTE]
That is a very specific calculator that factors allot of variables into the equation. If you're actual numbers are not the same as the assumed values in the formula you'll never get an accurate result. I suggest doing a few more brews on your system and observing and noting your actual values for each of those variables, then plugging your numbers into the calculator. On my M&B I have a boil off rate of 1 gallon, I basically live at sea level. I leave .25 gallon in the kettle when transferring to the fermenter.

I just plugged my numbers into the calculator from my may batch and it was within .25 gallon. That's not too bad. What values are you entering for your trub losses and your equipment losses?
 
57BF7369-6305-4EB2-B10A-A9238EC3C68E.png
ba-brewer said:
Me too. Maybe there is a dead space value hidden somewhere in the calculator.

Preboil = package volume + boil off + kettle loss + fermentor loss
Assume .5gal lost to kettle trub
Assume 1gal/hr
Assume .5gal lost to fermentor trub
Assume 5gal packaged
Preboil = 5 + 1 + .5 + .5 = 7gal

Assume .12gal/pound 13lb will absorb 1.56gal. ​
mash + sparge = preboil + absorption = 7 + 1.56 = 8.5gal

Plug in your number for my assumptions and see what you get and how that matches to your last brews.

Every system is a bit different, just be consistent where you can and make adjustment as needed to find what works for you.

edit: the above assumes a batch sparge type situation, if you fly sparge then that is not enough, extra water(a few gallons maybe) is required and you need to control when you stop the drain.
Click to expand...

Ok maybe the calculator that I was using from morebeer was for batch sparking then? Since the numbers that you indicated are similar to what that calculator said. When I used a calculator from homebrewing.com t came out much closer to the actual amounts that I used and ended up with. I used 4 gal to mash and 6 gal to sparge and came up with about 6.25-6.35 gal pre boil. The grain absorption is also much higher at 2.6gal then your estimated 1.56 gal. I’ll just need to brew some more and get everything dialed in! (Not that I really need an excuse to keep brewing )
 
TheLionKing said:
Does anyone have a BrewFather equipment profile for the Mash & Boil that's been working for them?
Click to expand...

Also interested in this. I changed some numbers around to mimic the last recipe that I did but have not tried the equipment profile on a new brew so I’m not sure if it’s accurate. Would love to see what other people have used for it.
 
I feel the major problem with these setups is the mash temp not being consistent all the way through, since the heating element and temp probe is down at the bottom, so the thicker your mash is in the mash tube, the more problems you will have. Now the new units with the circulation pumps solve this problem, pulls the mash liquor from the bottom, then recirculates it on top, basically stabilizing your temps. And maximizing your yield. I would always monitor the temp towards the top of the mash. and whats coming out of the re-circulation tube since the temp is often times wrong on the unit itself. But once you find out the temp variation, if any, you can quickly determine the real temp based on the reading.

But even if you have an older unit this can be easily solved with a $70 pump and some silicone hose. I would opt for this setup anyway over the built in pump because you can control what type of pump you get, a quality one with SS input and output housing. Plus you can vary your flow rate with a simple valve on the output of the pump.

I would also invest in some sort of insulation for these units. It helps during mash and it also helps during boil as well.

I also find its a good idea to include some rice hulls, about 1/2+ lbs to every mash to make sure youre getting a proper filter bed. They are cheap and will give you a perfect filter bed every time.

I sparge with hot water that I get from a dedicated 100 cup coffee brewer ($125) I got just for this purpose. I replaced the valve on the coffee brewer with a proper SS one to control flow. Sparge until your wart volume is reached (7-7.5 gal) and youre good to go.

I also feel that the fault with these systems, at least the 120v ones, is the time it takes to get to temp, and boil. And also is the boil vigorous enough? I guess this is kind of one of those things one has to weigh the pros and cons. 1500w-1600w is kind of lacking IMO. But you do get to brew in your basement or even kitchen vs brewing outside or garage. Those of us that have vigorous winters without a dedicated insulated garage can attest that these things are perfect for indoor brewing.

BTW they do sell additional heater arms that go well in these systems, basically adding another 1600w that you hang on the inside of the kettle once trying to boil. Doubling your wattage. I think they are around $130ish but you need another dedicated 20amp circuit. I dont have one but seriously considering one to up the game.
 
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If someone is not getting the water volumes right most probably is because of some wrong estimate (boil, losses, etc.). I use this calculator https://www.mibrewsupply.com/recipe/mash and it is very accurate most of the time. Worst case I am left with extra sparge water. I use 0.9g/hr boiloff rate, 0.3g kettle loss, and 0.3g fermenter loss. I also mash thin at 1.6 mash thickness. I have the cheap Amazon pump for recirculation (did manually before 1.5g every 15min), mix mash twice (do 75min mash) and kind of fly sparge and mix grains twice there too. I also squeeze grains at the end. I also cush my grains at 0.48. Since I started all this I have been getting 92% avg conversion efficiency and getting the best beers I have ever made. Have the system for one year now. Started doing extract and last 12 has been all-grain. For the price, I think it is hard to beat this system. Others use similar H/W as you can see. Other than adding recirculation I think the best improvement would be for more accurate temp control. but once you get to know it then you can manage easily.
 
So, first things first, I really love brewing on this unit. I biab inside the mash pipe on the original, non recirc version.

But I either have a brew problem, a software problem, or both. I've nearly always used beer smith, and it has been consistent as can be when I was brewing stovetop batches of all sorts of quantities. I noticed since I upgraded to the M&B, I hit my volumes, I hit my pre boil gravity, but miss my OG by a point or two, while still ended up with the correct volume into the fermenter. It generally isn't a big deal when its a 4-5% beer, but I noticed when I'm shooting for something over 6%, the difference expands. My last two brews, I missed by 6-7 gravity points (both were spoze to be around 1.063, and ended up being around 1.055/56. Measurements backed up by spare hydrometer, and refractometer. All three are in agreement). It's definitely not life or death, but how is it that I'm mashing efficiently ( sometimes even exceeding it by a point or two), boiling down to the correct volume, but NOT getting the correct gravity? M&B not boiling hard enough? Missing something in the beersmith profile? I think I'm just going to have to resort to lowering my BH Eff on the profile, and use a handful more grain?
 
Immocles said:
But I either have a brew problem, a software problem, or both. I've nearly always used beer smith, and it has been consistent as can be when I was brewing stovetop batches of all sorts of quantities. I noticed since I upgraded to the M&B, I hit my volumes, I hit my pre boil gravity, but miss my OG by a point or two, while still ended up with the correct volume into the fermenter.
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My only guess would be your eq settings show zero deadspace and a matching higher than actual boil-off.
 
Review time here. I brewed my first ever batch of all grain beer the other night with my brand new Mash & Boil. No fancy mods, or recirculation. Held mash temperature at a steady 150 during the 60 minute mash. Didn't really notice the dramatic temperature swings on the control panel like a lot of other users have talked about. Achieved a good boil about 50 minutes after getting my pre-boil volume in the kettle. Overall, I feel it's the best $299 I've ever spent on homebrewing.
 
I sure can’t wait to break mine out and use it. It’s been sitting in the box for well over a month now. Been waiting to break it in on my first 5 gallon batch. Ordered a couple kegs today so hopefully it won’t be long now.
 
Snark_Wolf_Brewing said:
Review time here. I brewed my first ever batch of all grain beer the other night with my brand new Mash & Boil. No fancy mods, or recirculation. Held mash temperature at a steady 150 during the 60 minute mash. Didn't really notice the dramatic temperature swings on the control panel like a lot of other users have talked about. Achieved a good boil about 50 minutes after getting my pre-boil volume in the kettle. Overall, I feel it's the best $299 I've ever spent on homebrewing.
Click to expand...

I always get the temp swing, but I don't fret...still makes good beer :)
 

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