Brew Magic to electric

[jtkratzer]

Very Important. Do you have the element connected? If not - all bets are off...

Yes, element plugged in, breakers on, 120V on the outlet. It's the leg going from the breaker to the contactor. The leg passing through the SSR is not getting through to the contactor.

I'm disappointed that my 240V indicator lights are on with 120V, so as they're currently wired, I'm only getting a solid light that the contactor has closed the contacts and one hot leg is lighting the LED.

 

[P-J]

Yes, element plugged in, breakers on, 120V on the outlet. It's the leg going from the breaker to the contactor. The leg passing through the SSR is not getting through to the contactor.

I'm disappointed that my 240V indicator lights are on with 120V, so as they're currently wired, I'm only getting a solid light that the contactor has closed the contacts and one hot leg is lighting the LED.

Something is NOT right.!

 

[jtkratzer]

Something is NOT right.!

I found the issue with the SSRs...installer error. Those +/- signs mean something. Amazing.

Now trying to figure out how to get the 240V indicators to light up only when 240V are present.

 

[jtkratzer]

I guess I need to check my wiring on my temp probes. The probe is plugged into the "outlet" on the right, but the temp on the left PID is updating.

I rewired the connections at the PID for the RTDs, red wires on 3 & 4, white on terminal 5.

I'm going to swap the wiring for the RTDs and see if the corresponding PID and appropriate panel mount for the RTDs match up.

This is why we test.

 

[jtkratzer]

Proper wiring fixes everything. Had the temp probes wired to the wrong PIDs. Fixed.

Set a temp for 145 on the BK and recirculated just to see everything work and the PID go from 100% to maintaining. Had a two degree overshoot.

Then pumped to the HLT through the dip tub and watched the temp go up on the PID there. Happy to see the PIDs and the dial thermometers are matching.

 

[jtkratzer]

This is the MLT, but the fitting is identical to the BK. I wanted to see how this tee fitting, thermometer, and ball valve would hook up using the Brewer's Hardware compression fitting to 1/2" MNPT.

Maybe I just won't use this thermometer at all. The BK will have the temp probe connected to the PID already. I want to see the temp as I'll be using the HERMS coil to chill and will be able to see the wort temp as it's recirculated.

After getting the boil kettle back, it already has a 1/2" coupler for one of the thermometers. This tee fitting and 90* elbow thermometer are going on the output of the MLT. Not necessary, but I already have it and it will give me something else to look at during the mash.

Settings and wiring are fixed on the PIDs. Just need to install the HERMS coil.

 

[jtkratzer]

HERMS coil installed. Easy. Didn't have to cut the coil at all. Should work well for chilling at 50'.

 

[jtkratzer]

Confirmed to be leak free, with pressure from an output restriction.

 

[jtkratzer]

So...this is the return on the mash tun. Not sure why Sabco set it up this way other than to save space or prevent a hose from crimping when filled with wort.

I'm going to put a valve on it to prevent spilling wort all over when disconnecting the hose, but I'm not thrilled with the vertical mount the way it is. It flexes quite a bit when opening and closing the valve.

Any reason I shouldn't cut it off before the 90? I have a compression to NPT elbow I could put on it with the valve that should be more solid. Any other suggestions before I cut it?

 

[kpr121]

Good work! Looks great!

 

[jtkratzer]

Good work! Looks great!

Thanks! Been busy on this. Wanted to be ready to go for a brew next weekend so it can ferment out over 2.5 weeks while I'm away. Ready for kegging when I get back. Going to be awesome to have 10 gallo batches...either to split, or try to fill all of my kegs at once.

 

[jtkratzer]

Decided to tear apart the fittings on the output of the MLT as the QD sat below the bottom of the keg and any time I take the keg off the stand for cleaning or anything else, it'd lean on the fitting. There just isn't enough material to cut away from any of the threaded parts to make it work.

Decided to go this way:

This is a point where I'm almost positive I will eventually get something welded that's stronger than the 1/2" tube that goes through the keg to the dip tube. I can hear the dip tube shifting the false bottom when I torque on the outside tube. I think cutting one side of the threads off an extra 1/2" nipple and getting it welded to the side of the keg, over the existing tubing, would definitely be stronger than what's there now.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

So...this is the return on the mash tun. Not sure why Sabco set it up this way other than to save space or prevent a hose from crimping when filled with wort.

I'm going to put a valve on it to prevent spilling wort all over when disconnecting the hose, but I'm not thrilled with the vertical mount the way it is. It flexes quite a bit when opening and closing the valve.

Any reason I shouldn't cut it off before the 90? I have a compression to NPT elbow I could put on it with the valve that should be more solid. Any other suggestions before I cut it?

[

I would also think it limits strain on the weld to the BK... kind of like a strain-relief on a electrical cord... Maybe a little mounting bracket welded to the side of the tank and a little arm that comes out and clamps the tube or valve? you could test with a bracket held to the BK with a ratchet-strap before welding... I bet it would really stiffen it up...

also, I think the pickup tube should be shortened a couple inches to not grab all the trub... just my opinion..

-mike

 

[jtkratzer]

I would also think it limits strain on the weld to the BK... kind of like a strain-relief on a electrical cord... Maybe a little mounting bracket welded to the side of the tank and a little arm that comes out and clamps the tube or valve? you could test with a bracket held to the BK with a ratchet-strap before welding... I bet it would really stiffen it up...

also, I think the pickup tube should be shortened a couple inches to not grab all the trub... just my opinion..

-mike

I'm confused...the 90* bend and lengthy tube I'm considering cutting before the bend, close to the side wall of the keg, is on the MLT. I'm thinking about using a 90* elbow compression to MNPT fitting to mount the ball valve closer to the side wall and have less deadspace, not that a few inches of 1/2" is much to worry about, just less to spill and drain all over.

And for the length of the dip tube, again...are we talking MLT or BK?

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

I'm confused...the 90* bend and lengthy tube I'm considering cutting before the bend, close to the side wall of the keg, is on the MLT. I'm thinking about using a 90* elbow compression to MNPT fitting to mount the ball valve closer to the side wall and have less deadspace, not that a few inches of 1/2" is much to worry about, just less to spill and drain all over.

And for the length of the dip tube, again...are we talking MLT or BK?

ahhh... I thought you were removing it because it was too flexy and pointed down... if you have the valve shut and disconnect the hose, not much comes out, right?... are you disconnecting with the valve open?

I normally have a pitcher or other container handy to drain pre-boil wort from hoses, fittings, and such into the BK, and then also use it post boil for draining the chiller...

on the dip tube, I have them on HLT, MLT, and BK and had a brain fart thinking it was the BK.... never mind..

 

[jtkratzer]

ahhh... I thought you were removing it because it was too flexy and pointed down... if you have the valve shut and disconnect the hose, not much comes out, right?... are you disconnecting with the valve open?

I normally have a pitcher or other container handy to drain pre-boil wort from hoses, fittings, and such into the BK, and then also use it post boil for draining the chiller...

on the dip tube, I have them on HLT, MLT, and BK and had a brain fart thinking it was the BK.... never mind..

I have dip tubes on all three as well. I'm thinking of the downward turned part of the tube wasn't there, I would have less to drain into a pitcher. I can't see any advantage to the plumbing other than space constraints from their original design, but using a 90* elbow alleviates that, reduces the amount I have to drain, and eliminates the flexing on that fitting.

Just looking for a second or third opinion before removing it.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

If you bump the valve now, it can flex a bit more than if it was a stub, maybe they had a problem with fatigue... also, if you had the valve off, and set it down on it's side or was cleaning it, it would be easier to dent the tip on the end of the tube...... might be interesting what the Mfr has to say.....

 

[jtkratzer]

Looks like the current build design still has that 90* bend on the MLT...

 

[jtkratzer]

Got my replacement part for a March pump that broke during shipping. Two pumps are running and I should be good for a full water run when I get home on Sunday.

 

[kpr121]

Got my replacement part for a March pump that broke during shipping. Two pumps are running and I should be good for a full water run when I get home on Sunday.

Bahhh! Throw some sugar and some hops and yeast in there, make some beer!

 

[jtkratzer]

Bahhh! Throw some sugar and some hops and yeast in there, make some beer!

I suppose I could tell my wife to grab some grain from the HBS and show some commitment.

 

[kpr121]

I suppose I could tell my wife to grab some grain from the HBS and show some commitment.

Like x10000

 

[jtkratzer]

Like x10000

I got home a bit later than I had hoped and decided against getting into a mess today. I did cut that 90* bend off my MLT and mount the 90* compression to NPT fitting and put a ball valve on it.

Also changed out the replacement pump head on my March pump. Brought water to a boil in the BK, heated water in the HLT and ran PBW through most of the system, rinsing with the hot water that was boiled in the HLT.

Looks like one of my Auber SW1 switches is defective and won't stay depressed. I'll give them a call on Monday.

As much as I want to brew this coming weekend, I have to finish the remodeling project and get a wall framed, electric run, and drywalled so my wife can paint while I'm out of town. It's going to be our daughter's room to make room in the nursery for our boy we're expecting in July. I have to at least act like my priorities are in order.

 

[jtkratzer]

Ordered everything for my first batch on this rig...10 gallons of Centennial Blonde. I brewed the partial mash recipe a few months ago and everyone loved it. Figured this would be an inexpensive batch to cut my teeth on.

 

[jtkratzer]

After some reconsideration, I'm going to mount the control panel on the wall, not on the stand. I didn't like having to route the two element power cords, two pump power cords, and two temp sensors cords through the stand where I'm trying to run the hoses and pumps and everything else that sits on the rack below the kettles.

I'm picking up wire and two male 30 amp plugs to make my own power cords to give me enough space to work away from the garage wall without a tangled mess of cords.

I picked up a 25 ft hose for drinking water to fill the kettles yesterday with an adapter to hook it up to a spare ball valve.

Ingredients showed up today and I'm ready to rock for Saturday morning.

 

[kosmokramer]

Isnt itrecommended not to use to males so you dont zap yourself by accident?

 

[jtkratzer]

Isnt itrecommended not to use to males so you dont zap yourself by accident?

The male is coming from the element, the plug won't be hot until it's inserted into the receptacle, just like any other appliance/light in your house. I'm simply replacing this:

With a plug like this (correct plug, not the one pictured) and a wire:

 

[kpr121]

After some reconsideration, I'm going to mount the control panel on the wall, not on the stand. I didn't like having to route the two element power cords, two pump power cords, and two temp sensors cords through the stand where I'm trying to run the hoses and pumps and everything else that sits on the rack below the kettles.

I'm picking up wire and two male 30 amp plugs to make my own power cords to give me enough space to work away from the garage wall without a tangled mess of cords.

I picked up a 25 ft hose for drinking water to fill the kettles yesterday with an adapter to hook it up to a spare ball valve.

Ingredients showed up today and I'm ready to rock for Saturday morning.

Even though I don’t know how your brew area is setup all that well, I think its a wise decision to get it mounted to the wall. That’s one thing I wish I would have done, was make my control panel more permanent (instead of set up to sit on a counter). Since I brew on my built-in garage workbench, I don’t think I will ever move my setup (unless I move houses or tear down the garage or something). For safety reasons the further away and more stable the CP is the better for the most part.

Glad your gonna pop that e-cherry this weekend! I am going to be attempting a partial parti-gyle brew on Saturday morning, a 5 gallon batch of a big barleywine (to celebrate my wife’s pregnancy), and 10 gallons of pale ale (to get me through my wife’s pregnancy). I have all day to brew and will have plenty of extra grains and DME on hand because there’s a good chance I am going to mess this one up royally.

 

[jtkratzer]

6' to 20'.

 

[sethhobrin]

The male is coming from the element, the plug won't be hot until it's inserted into the receptacle, just like any other appliance/light in your house. I'm simply replacing this:

With a plug like this (correct plug, not the one pictured) and a wire:

Hey can you clarify why you are switching plugs and receptacles? I am planning on using the top pictured one for 240v elements 2 hots and 1 ground. Was wondering why you are switching? I also have a switch on each element so the plug will not be hot until after it is plugged in and I flip the switch.