Brau Supply

[TexasWine]

If you were exclusively brewing 2.5 gallon batches and wanted to go as KISS as possible, would you recommend this system or induction with a cooler? In the past six months I've converted my equipment to small batches but still use propane. I'm ready for the final switch to indoors but stuck between these two electrical options.

I think KISS is going to mean different things for different folks. Me, I'd go with a Brau Supply system over a cooler and induction. I like the simplicity of heating up water and adding grain without the complication of figuring out additional heat loss in the cooler MT, possibly missing my temp and having to adjust. I also like having the alarms and appropriate amounts of automation in the Brau Supply controller. For me, those alarms, and other automagic things like adjusting output when nearing a boil and starting timers when temps are hit, help keep it simple.

For others, they don't want to attach hoses and clean a pump. But this isn't something I view as any trouble at all.

But I agree with @wilserbrewer, there are even more basic options than the two you listed. How about a 5 gallon kettle boiled on the stove top, and just slip it into a warm oven to hold mash temp? I've done lots of 6 gallon batches that way!

 

[bstway]

Yeah my reference to KISS is based on my past five years of BP, cooler and propane. To me that is simple except for having get the propane. I also got tired of (for me that's not simple) five gallon batches. Thus, my 2.5 gallon routine has made brewing more enjoyable. I am used to being able to get my water temps up very quickly with propane and 4 + gallons. My hunch is a 3500w induction would be faster than a 1500w element set up. I'm not that concerned about a couple degree drop in mash temp but baby sitting the water while waiting to get to strike and boil temperatures is getting on my nerves (not simple). I also don't like cleaning equipment but at least the Brau Supply mini is small in scale.

 

[TexasWine]

but baby sitting the water while waiting to get to strike and boil temperatures is getting on my nerves (not simple). I also don't like cleaning equipment but at least the Brau Supply mini is small in scale.

I've been known to set my system up, dial in the strike temp, come back a few hours later (or overnight) and then start brewing. That's one of the beauties of having a system with a controller. And for me that's KISS.

Concerning cleaning, it takes minimal effort. Put some water in the kettle, turn on the pump and set the controller to 160F, dump in some PBW, walk away for a while (minutes or hours), dump the water and rinse. You might have to lightly rub some tough spots in the kettle where the hot break cooks on, and maybe the element, but that's it. Super duper simple.

 

[bstway]

Looks as though the mini comes with either a 1500 watt or 2000 watt element. Usually, more is better but with my usual 4 + gallon full volume not sure. I can easily run a dedicated 20 amp GCFI protected circuit but would rather not. What do you think?

 

[TexasWine]

Looks as though the mini comes with either a 1500 watt or 2000 watt element. Usually, more is better but with my usual 4 + gallon full volume not sure. I can easily run a dedicated 20 amp GCFI protected circuit but would rather not. What do you think?

I've easily boiled 7 gallons with a single 1500 watt element. But a 2000 watt element will be a little faster.

Your kitchen and bathrooms should have 20 amp circuits. Run an extension cord if you need to.

 

[c_g_b]

Question for you brewers who use a Unibrau electric BIAB system, I have the new unibrau-mini and during my first brew day I was unsure of the best practice at transferring the cool wort to the fermentor. I opted to use sanitized tubing/racking cane vs draining from the ball valve because I wasn’t sure if I should recirculate the hot/boiling wort through the pump and tubing to sanitize prior to cool down. What do you recommend? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TexasWine]

Question for you brewers who use a Unibrau electric BIAB system, I have the new unibrau-mini and during my first brew day I was unsure of the best practice at transferring the cool wort to the fermentor. I opted to use sanitized tubing/racking cane vs draining from the ball valve because I wasn’t sure if I should recirculate the hot/boiling wort through the pump and tubing to sanitize prior to cool down. What do you recommend? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Lots of us use pumps and plate chillers. The norm is to circulate boiling wort through them the last 10 minutes of the boil. Just make sure you don't throttle your pump suction while circulating boiling wort because you'll severely cavitate your pump.

 

[whovous]

I transfer from the ball valve. I try to use a cleaner and very hot water after I brew, but I often get lazy if the brewing day goes long.

 

[c_g_b]

Thanks, I'll have to order some additional tubing to go from the pump/ball valve to the fermentor and give it a try. Will stick with the auto siphon for this weekend's brew.

Looking forward to getting my first batch into the keg this weekend. It was my first batch with the new mini system and my first all-grain batch. Anxious to see how it tastes. Cheers!

 

[cservaes6]

I am considering purchasing this system and was hoping I could get some feedback from some of you who have had it.

1. Have any of you installed whirlpool functionality with this? I use a plate chiller, but want to be able to do loose hop additions but would need a whirlpool in order to do it. If anyone has installed anything, I'd be interested in pictures if you have them.

2. One of the things I really like about the Brew Boss system is that it has functionality to squeeze the grains. I know there is a lot of back and forth about whether or not this is a good thing/bad thing, but have any of you ever tried to figure out a way to adjust this system to accommodate for that functionality?

3. Do any of you have photos of your plate chiller setup? Most of the ones I've seen use gravity to flow from the kettle to the chiller to a carboy. I would love to see a setup that included pumps to pump through the chiller.

Thanks guys!

 

[andrewmaixner]

I am considering purchasing this system and was hoping I could get some feedback from some of you who have had it.

1. Have any of you installed whirlpool functionality with this? I use a plate chiller, but want to be able to do loose hop additions but would need a whirlpool in order to do it. If anyone has installed anything, I'd be interested in pictures if you have them.

2. One of the things I really like about the Brew Boss system is that it has functionality to squeeze the grains. I know there is a lot of back and forth about whether or not this is a good thing/bad thing, but have any of you ever tried to figure out a way to adjust this system to accommodate for that functionality?

3. Do any of you have photos of your plate chiller setup? Most of the ones I've seen use gravity to flow from the kettle to the chiller to a carboy. I would love to see a setup that included pumps to pump through the chiller.

Thanks guys!

I have a different system, but can answer:
1) order a SS tubing that has the bottom bent at a 90deg angle and the top set to hook to whatever your pump output goes to. Will cost 12 - 50 $ depending. hook your pump output to that, and clip it to the edge of the kettle. boom, you have a removable adjustable recirculation / whirlpool fitting
Alternate, punch a hole and put in a weldless whirlpool fitting, there are lots of different kinds out there.

2) You can twist and squeeze a good BIAB bag even better than the BB-COFI. I used to do that, but now have a SS mesh basket, and I just pull it up on a pulley, and while heating to boil, let the grain drain for a couple minutes, pour a little sparge water over it and let it drain few more. Hitting 85-75% for 1.04-1.07 batches
Some people use a round pizza pan or custom SS press plate to squeeze, but I haven't found it necessary.

3) here's an album of some of my brewing setup pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/Wfk4JvD2wohQADsv9
One pump, 2 ball valves, 1 3-way valve, counterflow chiller and recirculating mash.
I plan to add another T-valve between the chiller return and the whirlpool input, to for the option to run off directly from the chiller to a fermenter when desired, for increased chill efficiency -- chill the whole kettle down to ~110Fwhere the recirculating chill efficiency starts to really drop off, then divert the output to a fermenter and the output will be at pitching temperature.

 

[whovous]

I am considering purchasing this system and was hoping I could get some feedback from some of you who have had it.

...

3. Do any of you have photos of your plate chiller setup? Most of the ones I've seen use gravity to flow from the kettle to the chiller to a carboy. I would love to see a setup that included pumps to pump through the chiller.

Thanks guys!

No pics, but using the pump that came with the system worked fine for me. I brew in the kitchen and put the plate chiller in the kitchen sink with the kettle next to the sink. Leave the hose where it is. Take the hose that connects to the top of the kettle and connect it to the chiller input instead. Then take a slightly longer hose and run it from the chiller output to the top of the kettle input. I run a short hose from the kitchen faucet to the chiller and just let the cooling water run through and out into the sink.

I wound up trashing the pump and replaced it with a Chugger that has far more power than I could ever use in such a small system. I put a valve on the output side to restrict the flow from the pump.

 

[Cobby]

Hi guys,just got my 120v system.Wondering how deep you place recirculating tube into grain bed?
Thanx.

 

[TexasWine]

Hi guys,just got my 120v system.Wondering how deep you place recirculating tube into grain bed?
Thanx.

I actually stopped using the hose and now use a mash cap with a locline manifold. When I was using the hose I would place it just below the wort surface, making sure it didn't erode a channel in the bed.

 

[whovous]

Which Locline do you use? The one with all of the drain holes, or the one that just drains at the end. I use the one with all of the holes, but I worry about getting them all under the water line. If I don't, it seems I add unnecessary oxygen to the process. I'm not trying to go full LODO, but it seems worth paying attention to this.

 

[Cobby]

Cheers!

 

[h22lude]

Which Locline do you use? The one with all of the drain holes, or the one that just drains at the end. I use the one with all of the holes, but I worry about getting them all under the water line. If I don't, it seems I add unnecessary oxygen to the process. I'm not trying to go full LODO, but it seems worth paying attention to this.

I use the ones with the holes. If you worry about O2, you can add a few solid ones to drop the others closer to the wort or even slightly under the top of the wort

 

[TexasWine]

Which Locline do you use? The one with all of the drain holes, or the one that just drains at the end. I use the one with all of the holes, but I worry about getting them all under the water line. If I don't, it seems I add unnecessary oxygen to the process. I'm not trying to go full LODO, but it seems worth paying attention to this.

I use the manifold with all the holes. By also using a floating mash cap I am guaranteeing mine are all under the surface of the wort.

 

[whovous]

I use the ones with the holes. If you worry about O2, you can add a few solid ones to drop the others closer to the wort or even slightly under the top of the wort

Good point. Time for me to do just that!

 

[whovous]

I use the manifold with all the holes. By also using a floating mash cap I am guaranteeing mine are all under the surface of the wort.

OK, I've just added "mash cap" to my brewing vocabulary. What do you use for your cap?

 

[TexasWine]

OK, I've just added "mash cap" to my brewing vocabulary. What do you use for your cap?

I got a stainless steel cake pan off Amazon that's just smaller than the diameter of my mash tun. Drilled a hold in it, installed a bulkhead, tee with RTD and hose connection on the top, elbow and Locline underneath.

 

[whovous]

Are you still using the original Mini-brau kettle? I.e., the 24L Bayou Classic? And have you completely ditched the lid in favor of the mash cap? I am giving serious thought to copying you on this.

 

[TexasWine]

Are you still using the original Mini-brau kettle? I.e., the 24L Bayou Classic? And have you completely ditched the lid in favor of the mash cap? I am giving serious thought to copying you on this.

My original actually used a 36 quart Bayou Classic kettle. But I wanted to go no sparge, so I sold it and got a 60 quart Bayou Classic.

It shouldn't be too hard to find a cake pan that would be a good fit for the 24 quart.

 

[Cobby]

One more question guys,what is the best way to calibrate temperature probe rtd pt100 EZ boil, do the boiling frozen water duo?
Thank you.

 

[TexasWine]

One more question guys,what is the best way to calibrate temperature probe rtd pt100 EZ boil, do the boiling frozen water duo?
Thank you.

Buy a Thermoworks thermometer with an appropriate accuracy and calibrate against it around mash temp, 150-160F.

 

[tofuguy]

Buy a Thermoworks thermometer with an appropriate accuracy and calibrate against it around mash temp, 150-160F.

I agree. You want to calibrate the RTD at a temperature range that matters the most; the mash.

 

[Cobby]

I agree. You want to calibrate the RTD at a temperature range that matters the most; the mash.

Cheers guys will do that.

 

[Cobby]

Hi guys, did anyone created BeerSmith profile for Unibrau 45 l. pot what are your values if you don't mind sharing.In my case water markings are little off, if I put 10 liters of water in it will show 9 littes.
Thanx.

 

[TexasWine]

Hi guys, did anyone created BeerSmith profile for Unibrau 45 l. pot what are your values if you don't mind sharing.In my case water markings are little off, if I put 10 liters of water in it will show 9 littes.
Thanx.

Sorry, can't help. I use Brewer's Friend.

But why don't you just make the measurements yourself? You can measure dead space and boil off rate using water. And it'll be a great opportunity to take it through a test run without the risk of running a batch of beer.

 

[Cobby]

Sorry, can't help. I use Brewer's Friend.

But why don't you just make the measurements yourself? You can measure dead space and boil off rate using water. And it'll be a great opportunity to take it through a test run without the risk of running a batch of beer.

Thank you, actually I did , I just wanted to compare the data,cos I think my water marking a little off.