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AdamPag

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
351
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6
Location
Glen Cove
So whats going on guys! Ive always wanted to brew, and finally for my birthday my GF got me a pretty kick ass starter kit!

My 1st brew was going perfectly (a hefeweizen) when while cooling the wort, the freaking thermometer cracked on the bottom of the kettle... So I had to dump it considering glass doesnt taste great and the weights in the thermometer I suspected were lead and all over the bottom of the pot.

My second batch I started last nite which is a simple all malt amber. Once again, perfect, no burning, no boilover, cooled to ideal temp in 20 mins, activated the yeast and pitched. Fermentation began very slowly but was visible around 3-4 hours, currently its at 16 hours and has a steady consistant bubble every 2 seconds.

A few questions!

I was expecting a more, idk, vigorous fermentation, should I see that happening in the next 24 hours or is a slow steady bubble what I want?
(5 gal batch in a 6.5gal bucket)

How long should I wait before transferring to the 2ndary carboy? is it more a matter of specific gravity? or just a few days after primary fermentation slows?

And the bad question of: I put vodka in the airlock (as recommended at the brewshop) and when putting the airlock on the bucket accidentally pressed down and pushed air in the air lock resulting in some (maybe 1/2 oz or less) of the vodka contaminating the wort.... How badly is this gonna affect my final product?
 
Just hang out and watch it work. 16 hours is nothing. I think the vodka won't matter other than taste. Secondary it if you feel like it or don't, but wait a few weeks anyway.

What's your atmospheric temp?
 
There are a lot of variables that can affect fermentation. The fact that it's fermenting is a good sign.

Don't secondary. Just let it go in the primary for 2-3 weeks and call it good. (Someone will surely pop in & discredit this...)

Vodka is sanitary so no worries. You'd have to add a lot to actually taste it.

Cheers, and Happy Brewing!!!
 
Sorry to hear about the first batch, probably could have saved it but that's water under the bridge now.

As to the second batch, pretend it's not there anymore and start thinking about making your next batch. What I am trying to say is: forget about it and let it ferment for @ 3 weeks, check the gravity to see if it is done, then bottle it. There is no real "requirement" to rack it to a secondary. In the meantime, you need to use that "2nd carboy" to ferment your 3rd batch in.

Don't worry about the vodka.
 
I was expecting a more, idk, vigorous fermentation, should I see that happening in the next 24 hours or is a slow steady bubble what I want?
(5 gal batch in a 6.5gal bucket)
It may pick up after the lag phase and be more vigorous. You never really know how the yeast will react though. Dry yeast tends to start slower.

How long should I wait before transferring to the 2ndary carboy? is it more a matter of specific gravity? or just a few days after primary fermentation slows?
Let it finish fermenting before racking. You can tell if it's done by checking the gravity over the course of a few days.

And the bad question of: I put vodka in the airlock (as recommended at the brewshop) and when putting the airlock on the bucket accidentally pressed down and pushed air in the air lock resulting in some (maybe 1/2 oz or less) of the vodka contaminating the wort.... How badly is this gonna affect my final product?
A small amount of vodka should have no effect on the beer.
 
AdamPag said:
So whats going on guys! Ive always wanted to brew, and finally for my birthday my GF got me a pretty kick ass starter kit!

My 1st brew was going perfectly (a hefeweizen) when while cooling the wort, the freaking thermometer cracked on the bottom of the kettle... So I had to dump it considering glass doesnt taste great and the weights in the thermometer I suspected were lead and all over the bottom of the pot.

My second batch I started last nite which is a simple all malt amber. Once again, perfect, no burning, no boilover, cooled to ideal temp in 20 mins, activated the yeast and pitched. Fermentation began very slowly but was visible around 3-4 hours, currently its at 16 hours and has a steady consistant bubble every 2 seconds.

A few questions!

I was expecting a more, idk, vigorous fermentation, should I see that happening in the next 24 hours or is a slow steady bubble what I want?
(5 gal batch in a 6.5gal bucket)

How long should I wait before transferring to the 2ndary carboy? is it more a matter of specific gravity? or just a few days after primary fermentation slows?

And the bad question of: I put vodka in the airlock (as recommended at the brewshop) and when putting the airlock on the bucket accidentally pressed down and pushed air in the air lock resulting in some (maybe 1/2 oz or less) of the vodka contaminating the wort.... How badly is this gonna affect my final product?

Airlock is not the best measure for fermentation.

I wait 3-4 weeks in primary and then bottle. Make sure you take gravity readings. If gravity is stable for 3 days you should be ok. I only secondary, well I never secondary. The glass carboy that came with my set is now dedicated to apfelwein.

Vodka is sterile so you just added a little more alcohol to your beer.

Congrats and visit the beginners forum and use the search feature often.
 
3-4 hour lag time is great. You have nothing to worry about with the vigor of the fermentation...all are different. In terms of the secondary, unless you want to add fruit or dry hop, I advise skipping it. I would guess the vast majority skips secondary. Also, vodka is no problem.
 
The vigor of your fermentation is not really important and is dependent on a number of factors (yeast strain, temperature, gravity to name a few). You'll eventually have concern on some batch or another that your airlock has little to no activity and you might feel the urge to post a question, but let me tell you now, don't use that as a gauge. The only thing that tells you your beer is fermenting is a hydrometer.

You don't need to transfer to secondary. Once the beer hits terminal gravity, which could be anywhere from 3 or 4 days to 2 weeks, the yeast is still doing its thing - cleaning up off-flavors and clearing are the most beneficial. I typically leave mine in primary for three to four weeks before I bottle or keg, but have also moved beer after only two weeks.

Vodka getting into your wort is 0.0% concern.

Also, I wouldn't have dumped the first batch. The glass and beads would have settled in primary.
 
Sorry to hear about the first batch, probably could have saved it but that's water under the bridge now.

As to the second batch, pretend it's not there anymore and start thinking about making your next batch. What I am trying to say is: forget about it and let it ferment for @ 3 weeks, check the gravity to see if it is done, then bottle it. There is no real "requirement" to rack it to a secondary. In the meantime, you need to use that "2nd carboy" to ferment your 3rd batch in.

Don't worry about the vodka.

^^^The biggest mistake by newbies is impatience. Once you think it's ready, wait a few more days to be sure.
 
"The mistakes are all there, waiting to be made." - Chess Grandmaster S. Tartakower, on the game's starting position.

Congrats on getting started, and on getting one mistake under your belt. Somewhere on this site there is an ongoing "broken thermometer" count, you can add to it and join the crowd. I believe the weights are steel not lead, but done is done.

If you are only 16 hours into the fermentation, you may yet see some high-kraeusen activity, or eruptions, or explosions. What yeast did you pitch?

Personally I would skip the secondary, just leave the brew alone for about three weeks, then bottle. For most beergarden-variety beers, secondary is not necessary. But if you want to be freeing up your primary vessel for your next batch, wait until visible signs of fermentation are well and truly done (wait at least a week), then transfer.

One benefit of using vodka in the airlock is that if some gets into your beer, all is good. Don't worry about it!

Cheers!
 
3-4 hour lag time is great.

I agree. Long lag times (IMO) are due to underpitching or lack of viable yeast. Making good starters with healthy yeast and good oxygenation will make a drastic improvement in your beer and will significantly reduce lag times. I can't remember the last time I didn't see activity within 8 hours and most show signs in half that time.
 
Geez you guys respond fast lol.

I killed the 1st batch only out of health concern, Ive switched from a floating glass thermometer to a stainless one which works MUCH better, sits outside the kettle and doesnt fog up at all.

I didnt expect the vodka to disturb anything anyway, its nearly tasteless, sterile, and there's gonna be alcohol in there soon anyway so mood point haha.

Id really like to get comfortable using the secondary as I plan on this being a trial by fire batch and moving very quickly to 3-4 brews staggered at the same time in multiple carboys. IF im going to rack this batch, I should wait until the final specific gravity is attained? Other than clarity, does the secondary carry any added benefits other than the ability to have multiple batches at once?

Ambient temperature is approx 72 degrees and steady
 
It has been discussed ad nauseum on this site and as far as I'm concerned (and I'm pretty sure I'm among the majority), there are no real benefits to secondary that cannot be obtained by leaving you beer in primary for the entire time. The yeast will settle out - like I mentioned in my earlier post, my beers sit for 3 to 4 weeks i primary and with that much time they come out crystal clear. I believe the only time you might consider a secondary is if you plan ahead that you're going to be doing an extended aging program > 6 months or a year and are concerned about oxygen permeability and maybe yeast autolysis. But those aren't issues with beer in a bucket or better bottle for a month.

As far as multiple batches, won't you still have the same number of fermentors filled with beer??

Besides, the less you touch the beer, the lower the chances are for contamination.

But, this is a hobby and we do it for fun (and great beer). If you insist on doing secondaries just because, hey, go nuts.
 
[QUOTEAmbient temperature is approx 72 degrees and steady[/QUOTE]

You're gonna wanna do something about that. 72 ambient = 78-80 under full ferment. Take it from me, you wont like what high ferm temps and fusels do to your beer. If you're just doing low abv batches and pitching plenty of yeast you might be OK for a while but you will eventually get a batch that smells and tastes like nail polish remover.

Do some reading on swamp coolers or better yet fermentation chambers. I keep all my ales at a steady 64 degrees now and never get off flavors anymore. Not trying to scare you, just giving you a heads up. Good luck and keep going!
 
[QUOTEAmbient temperature is approx 72 degrees and steady

You're gonna wanna do something about that. 72 ambient = 78-80 under full ferment. Take it from me, you wont like what high ferm temps and fusels do to your beer. If you're just doing low abv batches and pitching plenty of yeast you might be OK for a while but you will eventually get a batch that smells and tastes like nail polish remover.

Do some reading on swamp coolers or better yet fermentation chambers. I keep all my ales at a steady 64 degrees now and never get off flavors anymore. Not trying to scare you, just giving you a heads up. Good luck and keep going!

And fusel alcohol headaches are a beach, even after 1-2 beers.
 
Just use your primary. And hey do what I did, use your secondary as another primary. Your beer will benefit from staying in the primary 3-4 weeks.
 
Alright alright no more secondary then lol, atleast I have 2 fermentors now!

Is it a big deal if I move the bucket to a cooler place? or should I try to no disturb the brew at all?
 
I agree. Long lag times (IMO) are due to underpitching or lack of viable yeast. Making good starters with healthy yeast and good oxygenation will make a drastic improvement in your beer and will significantly reduce lag times. I can't remember the last time I didn't see activity within 8 hours and most show signs in half that time.

A normal healthy lag time is between 12-18 hours. Specific flavor compounds are produced during the growth phase (lag time) that are important. When two identical batches of beer are made identically and one has a lag time between 12-18 hours and one has a much shorter lag time most people prefer the taste of the beer with the longer lag time.
 
A normal healthy lag time is between 12-18 hours. Specific flavor compounds are produced during the growth phase (lag time) that are important. When two identical batches of beer are made identically and one has a lag time between 12-18 hours and one has a much shorter lag time most people prefer the taste of the beer with the longer lag time.

I'm sorry but I totally disagree. It's during this phase that esters, diacetyl, vegetal and other byproducts are formed. IMO, with the exception of Saison's or maybe Weizens, you would want to minimize the lag time. Especially in all Lagers and most ale's. To say that people prefer a beer with a longer lag time is conjecture.
 
I'm sorry but I totally disagree. It's during this phase that esters, diacetyl, vegetal and other byproducts are formed. IMO, with the exception of Saison's or maybe Weizens, you would want to minimize the lag time. Especially in all Lagers and most ale's. To say that people prefer a beer with a longer lag time is conjecture.

Is this^^^ a main reason for using starters?
 
I'm sorry but I totally disagree. It's during this phase that esters, diacetyl, vegetal and other byproducts are formed. IMO, with the exception of Saison's or maybe Weizens, you would want to minimize the lag time. Especially in all Lagers and most ale's. To say that people prefer a beer with a longer lag time is conjecture.

Well you can argue with Chris White and Jamil if you want.
 
Is this^^^ a main reason for using starters?

Yep. Imagine you go to an all you can eat buffet that feeds 50 and if you eat 75% you get it free. Now each person can clone themselves a few times to help. You and your 5-6 clones would be stressed, sweating ungodly byproducts and would evetually drown in your pee (alcohol).

Now if you could bring 5-10 friends with their clones to eat you'd have no problem and dinner would be on the house.
 
Well you can argue with Chris White and Jamil if you want.

No need. I've read that book too. I'm just saying it isn't so black and white. If the goal is to achieve a 12 hour lag time by underpitching or using weak yeast, I'll take the short lag time.

I can only speak for myself in saying that I've never had anyone say "that's the best beer I ever had" when I pitched a single vial and it took 18 hours to start, but I have with almost every beer I made an appropriate starter for and oxygenated with pure O2. In every case where I've done that the lag time was 8 hours or less. I really just disagree with a blanket statement that if the lag time is 12 hours or more its better.

Either way, different strokes for different folks and everyone can agree that no two processes are the same. It's worked quite well for me.
 
No need. I've read that book too. I'm just saying it isn't so black and white. If the goal is to achieve a 12 hour lag time by underpitching or using weak yeast, I'll take the short lag time.

I can only speak for myself in saying that I've never had anyone say "that's the best beer I ever had" when I pitched a single vial and it took 18 hours to start, but I have with almost every beer I made an appropriate starter for and oxygenated with pure O2. In every case where I've done that the lag time was 8 hours or less. I really just disagree with a blanket statement that if the lag time is 12 hours or more its better.

Either way, different strokes for different folks and everyone can agree that no two processes are the same. It's worked quite well for me.

I can agree with that. I guess I took the statement in the book to mean that there is a certain taste slot where the beer tastes better (subjective) than if there were any more of any less of those compounds.
 
I can agree with that. I guess I took the statement in the book to mean that there is a certain taste slot where the beer tastes better (subjective) than if there were any more of any less of those compounds.

I can understand that. I tell you, if anything, I will definitely look closely at the style I'm brewing when making my starter instead of blindly making it the same way every time. It's discussions like this that reinforce how important fermentation is to the whole process. Thanks bro! Let's grab a home brew! Cheers! :mug:
 
Guys, If all disputes were solved with healthy debate, ending in mutal understanding, topped off by icy cold beer, the world would solve all of its problems.

Anyhow, I re-read the recipe, and it VERBATIM says, primary fermentation 48-72 hours, let stand and finish for 4-6 days and your brew should be ready to bottle about a week after fermentation begins... This cant be right, Can it?
 
I used to secondary according to what my kits said, after reading all this I am notgoing to. Which saves me money cuz all my carboys are full, I have a clone ipa fermenting now in the primary bottling bucket I have. Do u transfer once before bottling to rid some sediment or bottle straight from primary?
Thanks
 
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