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Brake job question

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McCall St. Brewer

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West Monroe, Louisiana
I had my rear brakes fixed today. They lasted 103,000 miles, which isn't too bad at all I guess. When I picked up my vehicle, I noticed that the shop had replaced the rotors.

I've often wondered about that. It seems as though for as long as I've been driving cars any time I need my brakes done they want to replace my rotors. Is that necessary, or is it just a scam for shops to make more money? I always thought that the brake pads were the part that was supposed to wear out and be replaced. The rotors are a big, heavy chunk of metal.

The problem is, I have to work for a living and I don't have time to argue with shops about an issue like that. As a practical matter, I can't really have my vehicle laid up in shops for two or three days until I can resolve what is and what is not going to be replaced on the car.
 
You can have the rotors reground and get more life but it depends on the amount of metal there. It is usually more practical to just buy new ones.
 
Well...yes and no.
Rotors wear out just like the pads. IF the rotor has enough metal left on it, they can be turned (lathed back to smooth) surface for the new brake pad to ride on. The problem is when brakes last over 100,000 miles, often times the rotors are so badly worn, they can not be safely turned. That is to say that they don't have enough surface metal left.
IF you really want to know for sure, make sure that you ask (Ahead of time) for the old rotors back. The shop should give them to you with no hassle at all, and really this applies for any parts that they replace. Just be aware that most reman parts have a core charge, and they will need to turn your old part back in to the parts store for the core credit. If you act the fool and make them give you your old parts back, you may incur the core charge.

Also, be aware that a lot of shops will definitely charge you the ******* tax if you are rude to their girl at the front desk. BE NICE TO THEM, They will be nice to you!
 
brake rotors can be 'turned', basically ground down to resurface the metal. This costs about $8 a rotor at AutoZone, checker auto parts, etc. and takes about 20 minutes. But, after a lot of use, and multiple turnings, they get to a point where they are thinner than the specifications for the manufacturer, and need to be replaced. 100k miles is excellent life out of a set of pads and rotors, I would not be surprised if they were past spec.
 
The problem with turning rotors is that the machines are usually not set up properly nor are they perfectly squared. This is usually ok for most people. The rotors being of thinner material now after being turned will now overheat much quicker leading to more easily warped rotors.

I usually buy new rotors ever 50K. But then I buy the slotted rotors which help tremendously.
 
The quality of the rotors just aren't what they used to be. The rotors on my 2000 dakota warped in 15k and I replaced them with drilled and slotted and they've been smooth so far up to 60k. The only problem I see with letting them do the replacing is the huge markup. You can usually get them online for $100 a set for cars and maybe $100 each for trucks.
 
Bobby

Ever since the mid 90s Car manufactures have mad rotors and drums the thinnest possible allowed to save weight and $. They are not designed in any way to be reused from the factory.
 
You can usually get them online for $100 a set for cars and maybe $100 each for trucks.

This only works if you are able to install a brake rotor by yourself. Also be aware that any shop that is willing to put YOUR parts on for you, may not be the type of shop that you want to do business with. Most shops offer a warrantee with their service, and when you bring in parts, they have no controll over the quality or source of those parts. I for one would not want my name behind something that I have no controll over the quality.
 
When I do my brakes I always replace the rotors. Every time I've had them turned they've warped. When you are getting the brakes done just ask them to replace the rotors you can usually have it done for the cost of the parts no labor charge if you ask. Remember brakes are great money makers for these guys you can always save from the quote. Most shops go by the "book" times for repairs, these are great for brakes as each component has a time associated with the replacement.....Now here's the catch the times include the time to drive it in put it on the hoist and take off the tires. Don't be afraid to ask for a reduced labor rate they will still make their money. Things may be different in the states but I'd bet they are the same.
 
This only works if you are able to install a brake rotor by yourself. Also be aware that any shop that is willing to put YOUR parts on for you, may not be the type of shop that you want to do business with. Most shops offer a warrantee with their service, and when you bring in parts, they have no controll over the quality or source of those parts. I for one would not want my name behind something that I have no controll over the quality.

I know. It still sucks to eat the typical 50% percent markup. I'm willing to accept there are just people who aren't comfortable doing any auto work for themselves. I'm not one of them. I'm not talking about transmission rebuilds but stuff like brakes, brake lines, tune up and stuff like that can save some money over one's 50 year driving career.
 
I've replaced pads on worn rotors many times wih great sucess. I simply accept that the pads will wear unevenly, and that I'll get less life out of them. Hoever, this will not solve braking problems if the rotors are warped.
 
I may be walking into a hornets nest here...

I do this stuff for a living and we turn LOTS of rotors at my shop. Many times they are machined under factory warranty! I agree that in alot of cases, it is not a good idea to let someone machine your rotor. Inexpensive aftermarket rotors are not designed to be machined. If a lathe is not properly maintained (probably the majority of them) lateral runout will be machined into them. General Motors requires us to qualify our lathes(3 of them) on a monthly basis. In snow-belt areas, salt is a major factor in rotor wear ~ or more to the point, excessive rusting and flaking. In cases like this, the rust often goes deep into the rotor and is impossible to machine away. In the OP's case, I would surmise that it was a case of wear. After over 100K miles, the rotors were prolly worn below minimum thickness.

It amazes me how often I hear about people who pick up there car from the shop and are surprised with the repairs made. We will not perform any repairs without calling the customer with a detailed estimate. I know that there are many unscrupulous mechanics out there. I take pride in performing high quality repairs and treat every customer's car as if it were my mom's. Lately I haven't done too much in the way of brake work. Check this post out to see my latest project...
 
I always replace pads and rotors together.
When I had cars with one piece hub-rotors I tried having the rotors turned,
but they made more noise and didn't seem to feel good to me.
I think the newer cars have disposable rotors.
And brand new rotors aren't all rusty inside. :mug:
 
We charge $7 to turn a rotor or a drum.

It's just that you need to be pretty diligent about inspecting them in order to benefit from that. When you hear your brakes making noise, it's probably too late to have those rotors turned.

Well what I mean is usually by the time people realize the rotors are fouled, it is not really worth it for the trouble involved to swap them out, etc. He is over 100k, I'd definitely get new ones. If you do the work yourself then sure, it's easy to just get them reground.
 
The quality of the rotors just aren't what they used to be. The rotors on my 2000 dakota warped in 15k .

Tell me about it. I had the rotors on my Chevy replaced at 17k. I couldn't believe it. Piss poor manufacturing. I suppose they are making them out of recycled vegetable cans :D. I blame the concept of "engineering efficiency".
 
I know. It still sucks to eat the typical 50% percent markup. I'm willing to accept there are just people who aren't comfortable doing any auto work for themselves. I'm not one of them. I'm not talking about transmission rebuilds but stuff like brakes, brake lines, tune up and stuff like that can save some money over one's 50 year driving career.

It depends also on having a place to do the work. I have no garage and nowhere that is even level to park my car, etc. Even though I am capable of doing probably 80% of the work on my car, I am just not equipped. Thankfully I have a really good mechanic that is a mile away and is completely fair and honest. Yes they are rare.
 
Simple answer. Replace the pads and the rotors and do it yourself. Very easy. Learned how to do it last spring. Do a quick google search and youll learn everything you need to know.
 
I tend to go a long time between brake jobs as well. Some of the time, the rotors can be re-surfaced (turned), but not all of the time. If there is any grooving the pads will wear faster and you'll need new ones sooner.

Brake drums also wear, but they tend to be thick enough that they can be turned a couple times.
 
It's usually not very hard to do brakes yourself (unless you have specific problems with anti-lock). I can't remember the last time I changed rotors, but after 100,000 miles it's time! I'd never have a shop turn rotor unless they were very new and got warped. And, in that case, figure out why they warped! Plus, they are probably not even capable of being turned because most rotors are too close to minimum specs to start with.

Now that I have a new garage, I can't wait to find time to replace the rear brakes on my Jeep!! (No really!)
 
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