Bow hunters out there?

[azazel1024]

I did see a couple of threads, but I think the newest was 2+ years old.

My neighbor hunts. Mostly bow hunting the last few years. I am looking at going with him this fall when bow hunting season opens (maybe not the first weekend). I've figured out everything I need to do in advance for MD, and it isn't too bad. online + field course which seems to be free (field is taught by volunteers). I may need an extra bow hunting course which is 3hrs on top of that for my bow hunting stamp, but even if not required, I'll do it anyway.

The license + stamp is $24.50 + $6 and valid for the year from July to July.

I then (I think it was) made the mistake of hitting up Brass Pro, Walmart and Amazon to look over some bow hunting equipment.

Oi Jezz am I out of my depth. I think the last time I shot I was about 15. I was pretty darned good with the simply 15lb bows I was using at the time.

I am trying to go relatively thrifty (because dropping $500+ on a combo subsistence/new hobby is not the way I want to go). I am thinking a recurve bow, which looks like maybe a Samick Sage Recurve take-down box might be a good starter recurve. I have NO idea what kind of draw weight. I am leaning towards a 55#, because I am rather strong (no Hercules, but I bench over 220lbs and can curl over 90lbs)...but I know the lower the draw weight, the more accurate my shot is likely to be, as well as the longer I'll be able to hold the draw if waiting for a deer to shift, or if trying to stalk closer. MD minimums are 30# for deer and bear hunting...but that also seems really low (not that I'd want to be shot with a bow of ANY draw weight). Would going with a 45# over a 55# be a better idea as a starter? Any issues with a take down at 25-35 yards with a 45# bow (other than accuracy)?

I am TOTALLY lost when it comes to shafts and heads (other than I need them).

Other "accessories"? I am thinking a forearm guard, shooting glove and hip quiver. Or would a back quiver be a better idea for stalking (granted, stalking with a 60" bow is NOT going to be super easy to start with).

Or am I being really stupid and I just need to look at an "entry level" compound bow and suck up the fact that it means $100-150 more to get started with bow hunting.

Of course ALL of this is ignoring the fact that I haven't even yet asked my neighbor if he has a spare bow I can borrow for a season.

I am exchanging brew/brewing lessons for taking me hunting. By exchanging I mean I am happy to do that for him and he is happy to take me hunting (and he has been happy to dump a ton of venison on me as he can't use all that he does have right now).

 

[Psylocide]

I have a 45# Samick Sage recurve and I absolutely love it.

I have taken deer, turkey, squirrels, rabbits, etc. 25-35 yards is going to be about the max range... I like to be in the 20-25 yard range at most for deer.

For the past two seasons I have taken it out to attempt to get a pheasant. I have come very close, but haven't done it yet. Really going to try and get that done this season.

Glove and forearm guard are a must, hip quivers limit mobility a bit and I like a back quiver better for that reason. But prefer my hip quiver when I target shoot.

Go for a nice fixed blade broadhead for hunting deer. Shaft weight/length/head weight will depend on the bow you go with.

 

[Mustard]

I have a compound bow PSE BRUTE. I paid 499 for in up here in canada. I would say that for a new bowhunter compound would be much easier to learn with. I haven't shot a recurve in a long time, but I remember it not having any let off. Let off is huge when your hunting and a deer steps behind a tree. Most economic pacakages come with everything but the arrow and broadhead.

My 2 cents would be to try them out at a local shop and see what you can hold for at least a minute.

 

[BowAholic]

I did see a couple of threads, but I think the newest was 2+ years old.

My neighbor hunts. Mostly bow hunting the last few years. I am looking at going with him this fall when bow hunting season opens (maybe not the first weekend). I've figured out everything I need to do in advance for MD, and it isn't too bad. online + field course which seems to be free (field is taught by volunteers). I may need an extra bow hunting course which is 3hrs on top of that for my bow hunting stamp, but even if not required, I'll do it anyway.

The license + stamp is $24.50 + $6 and valid for the year from July to July.

I then (I think it was) made the mistake of hitting up Brass Pro, Walmart and Amazon to look over some bow hunting equipment.

Oi Jezz am I out of my depth. I think the last time I shot I was about 15. I was pretty darned good with the simply 15lb bows I was using at the time.

I am trying to go relatively thrifty (because dropping $500+ on a combo subsistence/new hobby is not the way I want to go). I am thinking a recurve bow, which looks like maybe a Samick Sage Recurve take-down box might be a good starter recurve. I have NO idea what kind of draw weight. I am leaning towards a 55#, because I am rather strong (no Hercules, but I bench over 220lbs and can curl over 90lbs)...but I know the lower the draw weight, the more accurate my shot is likely to be, as well as the longer I'll be able to hold the draw if waiting for a deer to shift, or if trying to stalk closer. MD minimums are 30# for deer and bear hunting...but that also seems really low (not that I'd want to be shot with a bow of ANY draw weight). Would going with a 45# over a 55# be a better idea as a starter? Any issues with a take down at 25-35 yards with a 45# bow (other than accuracy)?

I am TOTALLY lost when it comes to shafts and heads (other than I need them).

Other "accessories"? I am thinking a forearm guard, shooting glove and hip quiver. Or would a back quiver be a better idea for stalking (granted, stalking with a 60" bow is NOT going to be super easy to start with).

Or am I being really stupid and I just need to look at an "entry level" compound bow and suck up the fact that it means $100-150 more to get started with bow hunting.

Of course ALL of this is ignoring the fact that I haven't even yet asked my neighbor if he has a spare bow I can borrow for a season.

I am exchanging brew/brewing lessons for taking me hunting. By exchanging I mean I am happy to do that for him and he is happy to take me hunting (and he has been happy to dump a ton of venison on me as he can't use all that he does have right now).

-easy as pie... been shooting nothing but longbows, recurves, and selfbows for 30 years... try a few of the bow sites like http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/tf/lw/THREADSX2.CFM
welcome to the addiction...PM/email me for any questions...

 

[azazel1024]

Oh gods, please don't say that. My marriage can't afford another hobby addiction. I am in it for the subsistence. Honest (I think I am saving slightly more on brewing than I am spending on gear and ingredients still. I'd hope to make up in a couple of years an investment in hunting...but GAS I know can strike at any time).

Thanks all! Half of what I am hoping to get out of a bow hunting course is trying out some gear. That said, I think the Bass pro near me has an archery range to try things out and looking at their prices they are competitive with all of the other guys I have looked at. Just need to figure out when to take the course as I'd like to get that out of the way before investing in any equipment (and of course ask if I can borrow anything from my neighbor. I'd rather do that the first season).

Compound seems seductive, but at the same time, I'd rather use a recurve (and a yew long bow for target shooting, as I'd like to try to find a 75-90# long bow for target shooting, but I know I can't use that for actual hunting). The, generally, lower price to me is an incentive too. That and the easy ability to take it apart for storage (and keep bow string(s) and heads well hidden. I love my kids and because of that I do not trust them. Though I guess I shouldn't worry too much about a 7yr old shooting a 45+# bow).

 

[Hophunter]

Be prepared to dedicate plenty of time to practice. I hunt with a recurve (63#) and find I am most comfortable with a max 20yd range because my practice time is limited. You also need to make sure your setup is calibrated. Correct brace height, arrow length, shaft stiffness (spline), and broadhead weight. There is a little less of a learning curve with compounds but practice is still necessary. Find a good mom and pop place to get you properly setup. Enjoy.

 

[azazel1024]

Thanks! Sadly my property is not as large as I'd like (only about an acre*), but my backyard is sufficient that I could setup an archery butt with 30 yards to target shoot on (actually I could probably manage 60 yards, but that would be a bit of a "convoluted shot" as I'd be either 3-4ft above or below the target with the slope of my property. On the level, 30, maybe 40 yards max.

I am thinking in large part of trying to get the classes done by mid August to either borrow my neighbor's spare gear (if he has any) or buy my own to give me at least 3-4 weekends, half an hour or an hour each day (fair weather) to practice.

I need to get me a couple of bails of straw too.

*And unless I've missed it, the laws in my county mean I have to be 150yds from a private residence to take a shot, even with archery. Which I am okay with, but also means in season, I can't take down any of the friggen deer trying to eat my plants or running across my property. If I could, I'd probably never need to actually go hunting. Just carry the stuff around on the weekends or leave it in the trunk of my car when I come home in the evenings. I probably average 3-4 deer sightings in my yard a week in the fall. Heck, half the time it is taking my garbage to the curb...just take the bow out while doing trash duty .

 

[Rhaop]

If in Maryland look up Autumn Skies if you live close they are a great shop to start at

 

[Rhaop]

Also plenty of public bow hunting around baltimore along with free archery ranges

 

[Rhaop]

And for what it's worth i bought a Redhead toxic compound made by a Diamond, draws and shoots smooth offered from 50-70# and 80% let off to make it easier on your practice sessions

 

[Hophunter]

I do it on 1/2 an acre. My preference is to get judo heads that are the same weight as the broad heads and shoot at clover blossoms, leaves, or other similar small targets. It teaches you to aim small. I also use a foam block but pulling arrows can be a pita.

 

[Rhaop]

Yeah another good point if your buying arrows that are $5-$10 a piece do not go cheap on an archery target and always take your own target to an outdoor public range you never know whats buried inside those hay bails

 

[Hophunter]

*And unless I've missed it, the laws in my county mean I have to be 150yds from a private residence to take a shot, even with archery. Which I am okay with, but also means in season, I can't take down any of the friggen deer trying to eat my plants or running across my property. If I could, I'd probably never need to actually go hunting. Just carry the stuff around on the weekends or leave it in the trunk of my car when I come home in the evenings. I probably average 3-4 deer sightings in my yard a week in the fall. Heck, half the time it is taking my garbage to the curb...just take the bow out while doing trash duty .

I'm in a philly suburb and while I don't hunt in my back yard, with a proper backstop my neighbors haven't had issue with my practicing. Bowhunting is 50 yds from an occupied building in PA.

 

[Rhaop]

1 Maryland county has changed bow hunting minimum to 50yds I believe i'll have to check

Correction

It is unlawful
Hunt, trap or shoot at wildlife within 150 yards of an occupied building or camp without permission of the owner or occupant. For archery hunters this distance is 100 yards in Harford and Montgomery counties and 50 yards in Carroll and Frederick counties.

http://www.eregulations.com/maryland/hunting/general-hunting-regulations/

 

[Chris_Primavera]

I went through this all last year.

If all you are looking to do is hunt, a compound bow that is rated at 310 FPS ± is enough. Look at huntersfriend.com for some good information. The only reason to use a traditional bow is if you want the additional challenges they offer.

Next, try to find a local archery shop. I was able to buy a ready to hunt package for $500.00 - about the same as the online price. The difference is that the owner spent over an hour with me making sure I was fitted properly.

Third, practice. A lot.

Fourth - brush up on all things hunting, especially if you are after deer. Getting within 35 yards is quite a bit tougher than 60.

As for borrowing a bow - not a great idea. Unless the draw length and pull fits you, you will find it difficult to shoot accurately and you won't have a bow for practice.

And one more thing - Bowhunting is like brewing - you can spend significant amounts of money on the extras (treestand?) so do your research.

 

[Psylocide]

Or still hunt with a recurve and get into it for >$300.

 

[azazel1024]

1 Maryland county has changed bow hunting minimum to 50yds I believe i'll have to check

Correction

It is unlawful
Hunt, trap or shoot at wildlife within 150 yards of an occupied building or camp without permission of the owner or occupant. For archery hunters this distance is 100 yards in Harford and Montgomery counties and 50 yards in Carroll and Frederick counties.

http://www.eregulations.com/maryland/hunting/general-hunting-regulations/

Yeah, I am howard sadly. I am sure I could get permission from my next door neighbor and I give myself permission, which means I could do it at distances >50yds from other occupied residences, but not the 150 that I am subject to.

 

[Rhaop]

Yeah, I am howard sadly. I am sure I could get permission from my next door neighbor and I give myself permission, which means I could do it at distances >50yds from other occupied residences, but not the 150 that I am subject to.

I'm north harford and it's not any easier finding property here unless you have alot of cash or a club to secure a lease, on another note you must shop at MD homebrew how you like that place?

 

[Monkey-BB]

Check eBay on really weird dates and times-- I scored a Matthews Crewd on New Years Eve for $300
But I previously hunted with a $150 bass pro 50# setup for years and took many deer. It's not the bow in my book, it's the hunter. Practice with what you got!
Good luck bro!

 

[cbenn22]

I'm going to absolutely recommend a compound bow. I'd think in the area that you're located you should be able to score one for <$100. 2 years ago I paid $60 for a $400 PSE bow package that included everything I needed for hunting. Granted I turned it into a bowfishing bow, but it still was a great deal.

I know it looks like you need the latest most technologically advanced bow, but compounds really haven't changed "that much" over the past 15 years. Yeah they've got a little faster and a little quieter, but an older bow will kill a deer just as well. I still use a 60-70# bow that I got 10 years ago for Christmas.

If you buy a bow and have the arrows, most of the accessories you should be able to borrow from your buddy. It's some of the small things (releases, string loops, string wax, peeps, fletchings, bow square etc) that you're buddy will have that you can use that'll save you a lot of money. I'm going to guess your neighbor hunts from a tree stand and you'll be doing more waiting than stalking. As far as arrows, and tip weights, that will depend on your draw length/weight.

If you ever travel south, there's a place called Anne Arundel Archers in Gambrills that have an awesome free public range. I shot there quite a bit when I went to school down there.

 

[jdp]

I'll second the recommendation to start on a compound. I have nothing against traditional bows at all, but the time it takes to get proficient enough to shoot at a living thing is much shorter with a compound with pins and a peep sight. Don't buy from Walmart or any other mass seller, buy an inexpensive package at a bow shop... One that will fit the bow to you, size the arrows properly, and they will usually give you some instruction and some range time before you leave. Its worth the extra couple bucks. I started with a PSE bowhunter package that was cheaper than the release I use now. It included everything. Arrows, release, bow and quiver. Even an armguard, but I still ended up with a massive bowhickie.

It is addictive, I do have several bows now, and probably have more tied up in backtension releases than I spent on my first few bows (have to have spares... Lol!)


Good luck! Its a fun sport!

 

[azazel1024]

I'm north harford and it's not any easier finding property here unless you have alot of cash or a club to secure a lease, on another note you must shop at MD homebrew how you like that place?

Quite a lot. Most of the staff is super knowledgeable and their prices and stock are very good. Being a brew club member (at least Killer Ales, I think Baltibrew and one or two others may qualify as well) get a 10% discount. These days, I typically only get bulk grains, the occasional yeast and bottle caps from them, since I went bulk/oversized starters awhile ago. I do get grains by the pound from them occasionally when it is something I know I only need a fraction of a pound or a pound from them (like smoked malt, which I have used never, but will use half a pound in a Wee Heavy I am going to brew in a month or two).

 

[azazel1024]

Hrm, well now I need to huddle with my neighbor. He may be more interested in muzzle loader hunting this fall than bow hunting. I'd really rather bow hunt, but with the cost of "extras" muzzle loader hunting looks like it is actually cheaper to get in to. For the BASICS. CVA Wolf from Dick's is $250 includes a 9x40 scope. Bass Pro has it with a value pack, that includes a 9x32 scope and a ton of accessories for $330 and also the basic with nothing for $230. Which is probably roughly the cost I am thinking it would take me to start out on re-curve hunting and probably less than it would for composite hunting. Also probably a bit better chance of success (no idea, but I'd imagine with a 24" barrel I could be accurate enough with iron sights to at least 80 yds with a few hours on the range. I've shot .22LR a couple of times before, but never a muzzle loader).

I think I'd appreciate the challenge of bow hunting more, and it is something I can practice in my backyard. That and, honestly owning a gun gives me the willies. Especially with young kids, no matter how securely I thought it was stored.

But, if that is what he'd prefer to do, I'd be willing to give it a go. But I do want to do bow hunting eventually, if not this fall.

 

[Rhaop]

The thing about bow hunting is that is opens so much more opportunity to hunt, basically the beginning of sept to end of January

I worked in columbia for about 3 years as a sub contractor for the Columbia Assoc i really miss visiting MDHB Chris and the gang are great people, i had an account there with a 10% discount because i had spent over $2000 lol most of that was blichman and kegging equipment thou lol there are two shops near me in bel air and in Fork but they aren't even close to the size or price competitiveness

 

[azazel1024]

Yeah, a bit of me wants to try/do both. I am more inclined towards bow hunting though, I think.

I am itching to both talk to my neighbor as well as hit up Bass Pro to try out of a number of bows. I really think a re-curve would be fine for me and I'd enjoy it more. The rare few times I've handled a composite, I actually really don't like the let off...though, since I've never hunted, only target shot or played with in store, the let off my might REALLY nice for hunting for all I know.

I like the fact that the re-curve I am looking at has replaceable limbs and the price is pretty good on new limbs as well. So if I outfit it with everything I want, $80 and I can easily take the entire rig from 45# to 50, 55 or 60 (or I think it goes down to 35, but I don't think I'd start at less than 45#). I like that I can practice in my backyard. I like that I don't have to wear ear protection or worry about ringing ears/hearing loss. No oogie feelings about owning a bow.

Though, with a muzzleloader I'd have a lot more range, easier to stalk, especially through brush and a lot more take down power, but ZERO chance for a follow on if I miss. At least with a bow, on the tiny off chance it doesn't scare off the deer on the missed shot, I'd at least have a chance. Or if fast on the draw, a tiny chance if it hesitates or runs in to brush or up against a hill, drawing and firing a second arrow (albeit a tiny chance) Me thinks the boom of 100 grains of BP is going to cause every deer within a quarter mile to go heading for the hills instantly.

Dunno. I'll leave it up to my neighbor what he'd like to do and then down the road I can always switch or add in the other. One perk is, Potapsco State park is about 1.5 miles from my house, right down the road. Bow hunting is allowed there, but NOT firearm/ML hunting. Next closest public lands area I think is a good 12-15 miles from me.

 

[TheCADJockey]

I've got an old longbow that my grandfather gave to me. I know nothing about it other than the fact that I paid all my allowance to get it cleaned up and arrows cost me a small fortune to have custom made. I've spent three seasons hunting deer, haven't seen one either season so have never had the chance to take one. Its been three years since I've been out, since graduating and moving to the city. I miss it. I used to target shoot from horseback, clout shoot and set up silly targets on our 40 acres. It would take a long time to get back to the skill I was at. The longbow has definitely stripped skin from my forearm in the past though. Its beautiful.

 

[Rhaop]

Later in life i hope to take up the longbow, patapsco state park is a great place to bow hunt, i always saw deer mostly smaller deer but i at least saw some, since you live close you'll do better since you can start scouting now thru summer, i live an hr from there so made it tough to burn the fuel to travel just to scout

 

[azazel1024]

Yeah, I walk the trails there a lot. Though not in a year or two. I'd guess on average maybe 1 in 5 times I walked a trail I'd at least see deer, even if they weren't within 30yds. I'd imagine with a little scouting time off the trails as well as being able to cherry pick time of day (30 min before sun up to a couple of hours after dawn, go home and try again a couple of hours before sun up to 30 min after sun down) I'd up my chances.

With it that close too, it makes it a lot easier to just go for a few hours every Saturday for a few weekends to try my luck, then it would be if the drive meant I'd have to sacrifice an entire day if I got skunked.

 

[sheephrdr]

used to bow hunt but no time, only rifle hunt a couple times a year... id like to get my boys into archery though so maybe one day...

 

[azazel1024]

used to bow hunt but no time, only rifle hunt a couple times a year... id like to get my boys into archery though so maybe one day...

Some day I might when my kids are grown up. But probably not. Muzzleloader is maybe about as far along as I'd go.

Out of curiosity, anyone who has done muzzleloading, can you load shot in a modern muzzleloader rifle? Is the rifling sturdy enough to handle it? Or will you destroy the rifling? I know with "old" rifles, circa the 19th century, you couldn't load shot without destroying the rifling. I know a rifle would make a poor shotgun, but just curious if you could use shot in one for something like wild turkey hunting. I've seen a couple of places that carry shot under the muzzleloader section (unsure if it is supposed to be for smoothbore/muzzleloader shotguns). As "small" as .32, which I'd think with a .50 rifle, you could pack 5-6 .32" ball in on top of a charge with wadding to use as a tight grouping shotgun.

Or is that a BAD idea?

 

[Tin4]

I shoot a bow but I don't hunt. I use a longbow. I can make one of those if I need to hence the reason I stay away from compounds (though I have them).

My archery is about self reliance, so I should try to kill something, but I don't want it to hit my neighbors houses so there you go.

 

[hunter_le five]

I just recently got into bowery (Arching? Arching.), so no hunting yet. I'm getting better every session, but still not comfortable enough to try and arch a deer and be confident of a clean kill. Using a 40# Samick Sage recurve for now. Compound bows never interested me much.

 

[azazel1024]

So, reporting back in. Talking with my neighbor, I am going to do muzzleloading this year. I still want to do bow hunting, but I think it is realistically going to take me a couple of years to get in to that. Price seems roughly similar to muzzleloading at an entry level vs recurve hunting, but a lot easier and faster to get proficient "enough" with muzzleloading.

I can find a couple of half days to hit the range to dial in the sights, practice reloading and firing off a couple of dozen rounds (I have some limited experience with a .22 from YEARS ago, so the fundamentals of shooting aren't entirely foreign to me). I figure it is a much more fun challenge then just grabbing a shotgun or .308. I don't know that this summer I am going to be able to find 1-2hrs 2-3x a week all summer to practice archery.

If hunting goes well enough this fall, I'll probably be able to talk myself (and more importantly, dear wife) in to buying a recurve in the spring and starting to practice with an eye towards mixing in some box hunting fall of 2016, or 2017.

Finished the online portion of the safety test that my state requires and I am reserved for the field day next week so that I can get my hunting license this fall. I want to get those out of the way before buying anything. Just on the tiny chance I somehow turn out to be the most inept human being in the universe. And...well, fitting in some extra overtime hours at work to help pay for it all isn't a bad thing either. I think when I priced it, just the basic rifle and gear surrounding it is about $400. Which doesn't include hunting clothing, safety vest, etc. I'll need to buy this fall, which I am sure will be at least another $150 or so. I am glad I buckled down and took the online course today.

I wasn't exactly dragging my heels. But I was taking a "well, I need a free day on the weekend to do it, because it'll probably take me 4-5hrs". I managed to squeeze it in, in about 2hrs during work (break, lunch and maybe a bit of "not busy time" in there too). Very good, because the earliest time I could reasonably fit it in is next week...after that, it would be mid July and the next time after that is early August looking at the class schedule and my own schedule.

Yikes! Mid July wouldn't be the worst, but I wouldn't want to wait until early August to finish everything up. I want the rifle and equipment in hand by mid July so that I have plenty of freedom to find at least one weekend day before August to hit a range with my neighbor and at least 1, if not 2 more times after that where I can either go again to the range with him, or on my own to the range. Muzzleloading season here in Maryland starts something like the end of the 2nd week in October (3rd week?).

I am a very methodical planner, so I want all of my i's crossed and t's dotted well in advance. Wait, not that is t's crossed and...eh, whatever.

PS The one thing that is making me pale a little bit is looking at the price of ammo for muzzleloading. I realize I am not going to go to a range and unload a couple of hundred rounds. But, DANG man. Looks like about $1.10-1.30 per round once you take in to account the bullet, powder, primer and cleaning supplies. I mean, spending $20-30 every couple of months to "stay fresh" and maybe have a little isn't really all that much expense, well plus range costs. But still. Was looking at Hornady JHP .45 pistol bullets and sabots to load, but I am just wary of non-aerotipped rounds and ballistic performance, but it would cut the costs about $.30 a round...dunno (and also, how realistic around the Maryland area, that I'd be taking a shot at over 50-80yds anyway, where the difference between a (I think) 230 grain JHP and a 250 grain aerotip JHP is really going to show? And even if it did show, is it going to really matter on white tail?)