Bottom drain on keggle

[pickles]

Swagman,
You mention the gasket groove, I assume it's not necessary for what we're proposing? I know others have made fermenters out of sankes and I positive they didn't machined a groove in the keg side fitting. I suppose ideally its advantageous to do it on more manageable pieces but not needed?

 

[Swagman]

Swagman,
You mention the gasket groove, I assume it's not necessary for what we're proposing? I know others have made fermenters out of sankes and I positive they didn't machined a groove in the keg side fitting. I suppose ideally its advantageous to do it on more manageable pieces but not needed?

Not necessay a flat gasket will work just as good.

Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman

 

[GreenMonti]

Swagman,
You mention the gasket groove, I assume it's not necessary for what we're proposing? I know others have made fermenters out of sankes and I positive they didn't machined a groove in the keg side fitting. I suppose ideally its advantageous to do it on more manageable pieces but not needed?

Just use an O-ring and a grove isn't needed.

 

[pickles]

Ok great! Swagman I'll get in touch with you when I figure out my layout. I definately want to try this.

 

[conpewter]

Thanks Swagman, I'll also work out exactly what I want for this, but seems like it is a good solution for a bottom drain solution on a Sankey.

 

[Swagman]

Every keg has a 2" tri-clover welded onto it. Just flip the keg upside down.

My two cents I'll try to help if I can BUT. If I was wanting a keg with a bottom drain here is what I would do. Just as the quote says turn it upside down.

This my opinion

1. cut the bottom from the keg
2. cut the top rim off the bottom of the keg
3. remove the rest of the remaining bottom from the side

At this point you have a keg with easy access and nice straight sides. One thing upside down no handles but a pair can easily be make and tig welded to side.

Second.

4. A false bottom in my opinion is a must.
5. If bottom space under the neck is a priority I would go with a 2 inch cap and go to a 1 inch size fitting. like 90 degrees elbow, and short length of pipe to another cap 1 1/2 for the reduced size of piping.

To settle the fears on size of keg necks here is picture where I took two necks one upside down and use them to hook up my keg on the rig.

Here is how I like to do kegs as mention above for nice straight sided keg no sharp edges to get by and it can be done on the bottom of a keg

Here is another option this brewer wanted to put his heating element straight up from the bottom. Tig welded a 1 inch half coupler in the bottom

That is my two cents not saying its the best way just the way I would do it.
If a larger false bottom is needed I do have some material left over from a large project. I would sell very reasonable to get rid of it. its 1/16 thick 3/32 hole on a 5/32 stagger.

God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman

 

[conpewter]

Wow thanks for the pictures Swagman! I think a 2" Tri-Clover with a 1" 90 welded in would be great. I suppose since it is a boil kettle and I recirculate I don't need to worry about too much crap in the threads. With the tri-clover I can always take it off to clean it as well (or maybe shove a bottle brush in from the end hmm). Would the fitting be for 1" NPT stainless pipe? I'll have to see where I can get some of that, and have it threaded.

 

[pickles]

This is perfect! I really like the straight side of that keggle. I'm using a Brewtroller and wonder if I can have it run a CIP cycle and connect all the vessels together? Maybe connect the bottom drains (daisy chain) and have lids with spray nozzles; recirc having the BT control, and then drain from on outlet. Hmmmmm, this is starting to get crazy!