Botched Batch?

[superslomo]

First batch in years, first time diving in solo even to extract brewing. Doing a simple hefeweizen kit, did the boil, and ran out of time waiting for it to cool fully before pitching.

The dry yeast went into the batch at right about 100 degrees.

Does this have any very adverse consequences? It was pitched on Saturday night, and has been merrily bubbling away through the airlock in primary since then...

Also, how long does fermentation usually last on a five gallon batch of hefe (kit included two 3.3 lb can's of Munton's Wheat Malt extract syrup, along with two hop packets, not that it makes a difference with the hops.)

My sense is that there's no real point putting this into a secondary, as it doesn't need to clarify, but how long should I let it rest in primary before bottling?

Thanks all!

 

[Nashbrewer]

It needs to stay in the primary until fermentation is done. The only way to know when fermentation is done is to take a hydrometer sample three days in a row and it no longer drops. My *guess* is that it will take about one to two weeks to finish. Pitching the yeast at 100 degrees means the beer was above your temp goal for several hours and you may get some off flavors due to that. If you were using a traditional hefe yeast that means strong banana or bubble gum flavors are possible. Either way it'll be beer when it's done.

 

[superslomo]

LOL. Thanks... It just sat and stayed warm for so long I had no choice... it was already 1 AM and it still hadn't cooled enough to pitch.

In that kind of instance, is there any harm in leaving it overnight without yeast added, if the lid is on, and the fermenter was properly sanitized? It was not a full boil, so clearly the other water from the brita filter wasn't "sterile" and might have had some alternate bugs in it...

 

[Jubilee]

Pitching at that high temp can kill off some yeast as well, but it sounds like your fermentation is coming along nicely.

 

[rycov]

did you put it in an ice bath? usually it gets the temperature down pretty quick.

 

[mcwilcr]

I'm sure it's fine. RDWHAHB!

next time this happens though, just sanatize a piece of aluminum foil to put over the top (loosely) of your carboy or if you are using a bucket for fermentation close it do the same to an unfilled airlock. let this sit over night or how ever long it takes to cool down to pitching temperature, aerate the wort and pitch your yeast. as long as everything is properly sanitized you will not have to worry about any infections.

 

[superslomo]

Thanks for the clarification. It seemed like the yeast was really cooking along the following morning (Sunday) and that fermentation has already slowed significantly. Seems sort of odd given the indication of 48-72 hours for the cycle, but I'll see what happens...

Again, no need to go to secondary for the Hefeweizen? Does it have any positive effect, or is it mainly an unnecessary point if I'm going to let it sit and condition in the bottle for a bit?

 

[superslomo]

Also, the pot was big one, and would have been too much to fit in our kitchen sink sadly... so I didn't have it iced... stupid idea on my part, but I didn't know what choice I had.

 

[jsweet]

My very first batch, I pitched at about that temp. Came out fine. The beer tasted a bit raw until it had conditioned for quite a while, but I think that had more to do with it not spending enough time in the primary, higher ferm temps, etc. So yeah, better to pitch cooler, but no biggie.

 

[TopherM]

Beer's going to be fine, but you are going to have some esters due to the high ferementation temps at the start. There's going to be a sour/vingary taste in the beer for the first 3-4 weeks after you bottle it, but just let it sit and condition for that extra time and the esters will mellow out.

So the extra 15 minutes it would have taken to go from 100 to 80 in an ice bath on brew day probably cost you about an extra 2 weeks in conditioning. Not a great return on investment, but no big woop!

Most professionals say yeast don't start to die off until the temp is about 120, and all will die instantly right at about 140 F.

 

[Yeagermiester]

I also have a question about a possible botched batch.

I recently second fermented an Oatmeal brew, and during the time when I was plugging the bung into the top of the plastic carboy, I seemed to press down on the bung too hard and it sucked half of the airlock cleaning solution into the fermenter!

Am I totally screwed? I can't remember the name of the non-rinse cleaning solution that I am using is, but it is the stuff that the Brew kit included.

 

[jsweet]

You said it's a no-rinse cleaner? It would be best if we knew which one it was, but that probably means it's okay. After all, if it's no-rinse, there'd be trace amounts in your beer anyway...

The big worry would be if it were a chlorine-based sanitizer, because that could really screw up your beer. Most other sanitizers, it should be alright, I would think.

 

[mcwilcr]

Thanks for the clarification. It seemed like the yeast was really cooking along the following morning (Sunday) and that fermentation has already slowed significantly. Seems sort of odd given the indication of 48-72 hours for the cycle, but I'll see what happens...

Again, no need to go to secondary for the Hefeweizen? Does it have any positive effect, or is it mainly an unnecessary point if I'm going to let it sit and condition in the bottle for a bit?

Primarily, the use of secondary for every batch of beer is considered an old concept and largely unnecessary. Most people here, myself included, only use secondary for beers that require long clarification time, aging, adding fruit, oaking, dry hopping, etc.

since your hefe is cloudy by style, once fermentation stops in the primary, prime and bottle.

 

[Yeagermiester]

Thank you for the fast reply!

I am at work right now, but I really don't think it was a Chlorine based cleaner. If my memory serves me, it was TWC or something like that. I know its eco- friendly.

Thanks again!

 

[Yeagermiester]

Sorry, the cleaner is called PBW. Any know issues with contamination or weird flavoring with beer?

Thanks,

 

[jsweet]

Here is a post from somebody who said they had PBW sucked back through their airlock just like you, with no problems: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/beer-safe-pbw-question-137543/#post1558076

So I think you're good!

However, on a side note, you should know that PBW is a cleaner, not a sanitizer. If you don't also use a sanitizer, you risk infections (though if you didn't this time, don't worry, it will almost certainly be fine). Also, there's no point in putting a cleaner in your airlock... you can put a sanitizer or vodka or something, or you can just put water if you aren't worried -- but there's really no point in putting a cleaner in there, I don't think.

That's all a side note though. RDWHAHB. This beer will be fine!

 

[nefarious_1_]

Here is a post from somebody who said they had PBW sucked back through their airlock just like you, with no problems: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/beer-safe-pbw-question-137543/#post1558076

So I think you're good!

However, on a side note, you should know that PBW is a cleaner, not a sanitizer. If you don't also use a sanitizer, you risk infections (though if you didn't this time, don't worry, it will almost certainly be fine). Also, there's no point in putting a cleaner in your airlock... you can put a sanitizer or vodka or something, or you can just put water if you aren't worried -- but there's really no point in putting a cleaner in there, I don't think.

That's all a side note though. RDWHAHB. This beer will be fine!

+1

PBW is definitely not no-rinse though. Just don't want OP thinking it's ok not to rinse it out. Rinse it thoroughly after use, then sanitize. It really shouldn't be consumed.

No worries though, I bet your beer will be fine! Just keep this in mind next time. Cheers all around!

 

[superslomo]

Odd thing: it's a Brewer's Best kit, and suggests bottling after 72 hours of fermentation. Is that a little bit short, or am I missing something here?

If it's only going to do three days of fermentation, I would assume it will need to sit for some time in the bottles before it's really drinkable. How long do you folks usually figure for brew-to-bottle on a super-simple hefeweizen??

The kit was 6.6 pounds of Munton's Wheat LME, 2 ounces of hops in the boil, and a nifty-thrifty packet of dried yeast to boot.

If I want to make space in the primary to start something else, is it worth the bother of racking to secondary, or should I just suck it up, bottle quickly, and start a fresh batch in primary in the next week or so?

 

[rycov]

thats too soon to bottle. wait two weeks. do you have a hydrometer? thats your best bet.

 

[unionrdr]

I'm going to have to talk to my LHBS. They have a sticker on the bags of PBW that claim it's a no rinse cleaner/sanitizer. I know it's not a sanitizer,although in a pinch,I used it as such before. Now I know it's no rinse,contrary to claims made. Shnike's! Now I have to go back to doing my bottle recycling in the kitchen. I use cheap grocery store vodka in my airlocks,since any nasties that settle in it get alcohol poisoning. And wheat beers shouldn't take too long from pitch to glass. They're one of the quickest for turn around time.