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Bittering hops added way late

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rtrevino

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Ok, I got distracted today while brewing and forgot to add my buttering hops at the start od boil. It was like 40 minutes into the boil when I realized my big mistake. I continued to only boil for 60 minutes, so at best my bittering hops were only in for 20 minutes. Anyone have any idea how bad this will affect the final outcome?
 
It really depends on the style you were brewing and what hops you used. Obviously you are going to have much less bittering and significantly lower IBUs. Bittering hops are usually high Alpha acid varieties that don't multitask well as flavor additions. You can dry hop to try and balance it out, though it will not technically increase IBUs it will increase perceived bitterness.

What was the recipe?
 
it'll just make the balance more malt forward, while adding more hop flavor. I wouldnt worry about it

Bittering hops are usually high Alpha acid varieties that don't multitask well as flavor additions.

That's an old myth. Many high AA hops are used late in lots of brews today and are quite fantastic as flavor/aroma additions.
 
American Ale recipe. 1oz brawling cross was used for the bittering. Suppose to be around a 4.6% AA.

I haven't dry hop before but it sounds like I may not have made as much of an error as I thought. Please keep the opinions coming. Thanks guys.
 
*poof* your bittering hops have now magically transformed into taste/aroma hops!

You may actually prefer the result!

RDWHAHB :mug:
 
hop_utilization.jpg



In case the picture doesn't work -
http://www.brewsupplies.com/hop_characteristics.htm
 
You could have just continued the boil and adjusted the FG with distilled water.
 
That's an old myth. Many high AA hops are used late in lots of brews today and are quite fantastic as flavor/aroma additions.

I was not suggesting it could not be done or would even have bad results. Hell, I use Summit and Warrior as late hop additions (5 minute and flameout) in my CDA recipe! But they are a small part of a big hop bill that has significant bittering additions as well. I don't expect to get a lot out of them.

Most high alpha hops simply do not contain the quantity of hop oils, byproducts, and other compounds that make traditional low alpha flavor and aroma hops give the results they do. However, Bramling Cross IS a low alpha British hop variety that is considered an aroma hop. It WILL contribute great flavor and aroma.

The concern is adequate bitterness in a pale ale that received no bittering hop addition. That is why I suggested dry hopping and the later suggestion of steeping/ hop tea is good as well. You have a unique opportunity to wait until fermentation is complete and sample. If it is not bitter enough, try dry hopping for a few days and sample again. If still not bitter enough, leave 'em in longer or even throw in a little more. The dry hopping will also add a ton of hop aroma which contributes significantly to the perception of hop flavors and bitterness.
 
Most high alpha hops simply do not contain the quantity of hop oils, byproducts, and other compounds that make traditional low alpha flavor and aroma hops give the results they do. However, Bramling Cross IS a low alpha British hop variety that is considered an aroma hop. It WILL contribute great flavor and aroma.

Also a myth. AA and essential oil content are unrelated

http://www.yakimachief.com/hopvarieties/varietychart.html

The concern is adequate bitterness in a pale ale that received no bittering hop addition.

In an average PA it'd account for less than a 10 IBU difference (doing 20 instead of 60), there's nothing to worry about. Just roll with what you got or dry hop if you want more aroma
 
Interesting chart, Colby. Makes me wonder why the fuss with all the flame out or two minute hops when even aroma needs 7 minutes to peak.

In my experience (not professional nor expert, just made a lot of beer) that chart seems pretty accurate IF you had instant chilling at the end of the boil. I think that the time delay between shutting off power and getting the wort chilled is why the near flameout and flameout hops are used. A flameout addition that steeps for 10 mins until the wort gets down below 140 F is kind of like a 10 min addition on that chart. I struggled with this with my old setup, where I'd gravity drain through a CFC. I could get great flavor, all the bitterness I was expecting, but for a while I couldn't get decent aroma from kettle hops. I ended up having to double the final addition, and throw it in the kettle when about 1/2 of the wort was drained. YMMV, but this worked for me. with the slower chilling system.
 
In my experience (not professional nor expert, just made a lot of beer) that chart seems pretty accurate IF you had instant chilling at the end of the boil. I think that the time delay between shutting off power and getting the wort chilled is why the near flameout and flameout hops are used. A flameout addition that steeps for 10 mins until the wort gets down below 140 F is kind of like a 10 min addition on that chart. I struggled with this with my old setup, where I'd gravity drain through a CFC. I could get great flavor, all the bitterness I was expecting, but for a while I couldn't get decent aroma from kettle hops. I ended up having to double the final addition, and throw it in the kettle when about 1/2 of the wort was drained. YMMV, but this worked for me. with the slower chilling system.

I have no experience, but I also believe that just because the flame goes out does not mean that the hops stop reacting to the temp of the wort.
 
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