Big pot question

[beertoole]

I am about to make the much anticipated switch to all grain and my first step is a huge stainless steel pot. I am looking into a 7.5 gal Polar brand pot or spending a little more for a 8 gal (Polar) that has a valve and temp gauge on it. Are the upgrades on the more expensive pot worth the money? (its about $45 more). Has anyone had issues with the pre-installed thermometers not being trustworthy/reliable?

Thoughts?

Shawn

 

[MalFet]

Are you going to be mashing or boiling in this pot? In either case, you definitely want a 10 gallon pot.

The upgrades are convenient, particularly the ball-valve. The bimetal thermometers are all reasonably decent.

 

[ILuvIPA]

For a boil kettle, what MalFet said - 10 gallon. I wanted 10 but settled for an 8 gallon (killer price - morebeer deal 'o the day.) I can do a 5 gallon batch but it is stressful coming to the boil. Between boil-off (1.25gal,) loss to trub/kettle (.5gal,) & loss to fermenter/sediment (.25 gal,) I have to start with 7 gallons to bottle 5 gallons of brew. 7 gallons is tight in an 8 g. pot.

Ball valve is a must have. (I initially though I wouldn't need it. . .but it's great. Get the 3 piece valve so you can clean it.) Thermometer. . .not so much. The probe is in the way if you use a chiller. I capped my thermometer welded fitting with a SS plug and just dangle a digital probe over the side. YMMV

I love my 8 megapot but secretly wish it was 10 every time I come to the boil

 

[Golddiggie]

I fully agree that the larger the pot, the better... I'm using a 32 quart aluminum pot right now, but will be getting a 60-80 quart soon (for 10 gallon batches) and possibly another 32-40 quart pot at the same time.

I would ask, how far up from the bottom is it safe to install a ball valve in the pot? I ask because my current pot doesn't have one, and I'm thinking of installing one. It would make transfers a hell of a lot easier, if I install one... I, basically, just want it far enough from the flame to be safe (it's a valve designed to be used in a brew pot/kettle)...

 

[weirdboy]

I agree with the points above. 10 gallons is better if you're really planning to invest in a proper brew kettle. I have used a 7.5 gallon turkey aluminum fryer pot for a long time, and you can get by with it. I have since modded mine by adding a valve, although I used it for a long time as-is. But the reason I got it is because it was CHEAP and came with the burner I still use today.

If I were going to spend good money on a proper brew kettle that I was planning to use forever (at least, for 5 gallon batches), I'd go with a 10 gallon pot. Hell I did a 5 gallon batch last weekend that started at over 8 gallons preboil. If I were going to do that in a smaller pot I'd have to do partial mash probably.

A valve is not strictly necessary, but it sure makes things easier, especially when later on you start looking at pumps and whatnot.

 

[Hex]

I'm using this one as a mash/boil kettle:
http://www.cozydays.com/home-garden/cookware/stockpot-lid-36-qt-stainless-steel-1194.html

It's a little tight on space for a 90+min boil and 5.5-6gal into the carboy. I'll probably get this one next to add to the collection:
http://www.cozydays.com/home-garden/cookware/stockpot-lid-44-qt-stainless-steel-1195.html

 

[maida7]

I love my 8 megapot but secretly wish it was 10 every time I come to the boil

I agree that 10 gallons is probably better but 8 gallons will work fine.

Try adding a few drops of fermcap to control the foam in the boil. It's like magic

 

[beertoole]

Thanks so much guys. I didnt even think about the wort chiller I have not fitting with the thermometer in the way, cheers IluvIPA!!!! 10 gallon it is.

Freakin love this site.

 

[str8wire]

One more thing...for a boil kettle only, there is no real need for a thermometer. It boils when it boils. All I do is watch the thermometer creep up and remind me that it's not at 212 yet.

 

[maida7]

One more thing...for a boil kettle only, there is no real need for a thermometer. It boils when it boils. All I do is watch the thermometer creep up and remind me that it's not at 212 yet.

I find the thermometer helpful when cooling with an immersion chiller. Makes it easy to know when you've got it cooled down to the proper pitching temp.

I've had no problems using an IC with the thermo probe. Even in an 8 gallon pot. You just need to adjust the IC so it fits around the probe.

 

[SamuraiSquirrel]

15 gallon !!!! strongly recommended .....

10 gallon ...... ABSOLUTE minimum.

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm going to stick with the 32 quart (8 gallon) as the absolute smallest you would want to go with for 5 gallon all-grain batches... 10+ gallon sizes, though, will be MUCH better... Get a 15-20 gallon and then you're all set for when (not if) you go to 10 gallon batches...

 

[mikebowman]

slightly off topic, but what are the benefits to getting a kettle with a valve? presumably if one were to use it for mashing it'd make sense, but if its for boiling, is there a real advantage?

 

[maida7]

slightly off topic, but what are the benefits to getting a kettle with a valve? presumably if one were to use it for mashing it'd make sense, but if its for boiling, is there a real advantage?

I use a valve to drain it into the fermenter(s)

 

[Golddiggie]

I use a valve to drain it into the fermenter(s)

+1 right there...

Plus, if you decide to go with BIAB, you can use it to recirculate the wort... I'm thinking that with a valve in there, I could also use the same pot to sparge, making it even easier to BIAB... Would just need something to hold the mash runnings in while I sparge... Not difficult for me right now with 5 gallon batches.

 

[starrfish]

+1 Ball valve is a must have. I wish I had one and will be installing one on my el cheapo stainless 10 gallon pot. I just hope I don't screw the pot while drilling through that thin stainless, otherwise I'll be looking for another 10 gallon pot. I only do 5.5 gallon batches but with a 6.5 gallon or better boil volume an 8 gallon would be a close fit esp once it gets rolling and hot break forms.

On the ball valve on the kettle.. transfering boiled and cooled wort by siphon is a pain in the butt... would love to just turn a valve and transfer to primary.

 

[Golddiggie]

Hey starrfish, how far from the bottom are you planning on installing the ball valve? Looking to put one I have on hand into my 8 gallon aluminum brew pot... I'll also be installing one into the 15-20 gallon pot I'll be picking up later next week. Just want it far enough from the flame to be safe, but low enough to get most of the wort out... Don't mind having a gallon, or so, left in the pot, since I could either just tip it so that more get through the valve, or dump it in using a funnel (could aerate the wort that way )...

 

[Brewfat]

Hey starrfish, how far from the bottom are you planning on installing the ball valve? Looking to put one I have on hand into my 8 gallon aluminum brew pot... I'll also be installing one into the 15-20 gallon pot I'll be picking up later next week. Just want it far enough from the flame to be safe, but low enough to get most of the wort out... Don't mind having a gallon, or so, left in the pot, since I could either just tip it so that more get through the valve, or dump it in using a funnel (could aerate the wort that way )...

Add a dip tube and you can raise the valve

 

[Golddiggie]

Add a dip tube and you can raise the valve

Not even close to an answer... I don't have a dip tube and have no idea if I ever will to this pot...

Looking for more clear answer... Such as is 2" from the bottom enough? Can I place it 1" from the bottom? Should I go up to 3" from the bottom??? Does it matter at all? Can the seals that come with the kettle conversion ball valves take the heat from any height?

 

[joeybeer]

I've been using a buddies turkey fryer pot and it's close when 7 gallons come to a boil...
I'm going to switch to a keggle soon.. I can boil away in there, move up to 10 gal batches and even pimp it with a sight glass and valve (and maybe a pump) for the price of a "normal" pot..

 

[jeffmeh]

I put the valve as low in the pot as I could. If that is a problem you could always create some type of heat shield.

I use a 15-gal pot on a turkey fryer that came with a 7.5-gal pot. The extra diameter moves the valve far enough from the flame that it is safe, but I do take care to throttle the burner back enough so that flames are not shooting up the sides of the pot. That would be a waste of propane anyway.

 

[starrfish]

I had an answer from a place where I almost purchased my ball valve kit for a brew pot a while back, but I've lost his reply... I think it was around 1 1/2 inches from center of 3/4-7/8" hole to bottom of pot, but don't quote me on that as I have not done it yet.

If you find the answer before I find the reply I got please post back here. I would think anymore than 1 1/2 inches may be too high.

I use a pellets a lot and a hop straining bag so I'm not concerned with hop pellet residue or whole hop parts getting into ferm. tank so I won't be adding the bazooka screen at least not right away.

I do remember on the cheap economy pot it was suggested to drill a small pilot hole and work the hole larger with a step drill bit. go slow and use a "cutting oil" used when cutting or drilling metal (I have heard 3-in-1 oil also works W-D 40 is too thin and has a tendency to smoke. I found that out while drilling through the top of my kegerator to install tower!)

I'm not going with a dip tube either just for simplicity I don't mind tilting the pot to get the last bit if needed but I usually leave a bit of hot break behind anyway after boil.

I use a Bayou Classic Square 14" burner and flame is already pretty far from the pot.

 

[Golddiggie]

I put the valve as low in the pot as I could. If that is a problem you could always create some type of heat shield.

I use a 15-gal pot on a turkey fryer that came with a 7.5-gal pot. The extra diameter moves the valve far enough from the flame that it is safe, but I do take care to throttle the burner back enough so that flames are not shooting up the sides of the pot. That would be a waste of propane anyway.

Now THAT'S actually useful information...

I'll work to get the valve as low as possible, but still be able to get a wrench on the fittings (that need to be tightened on the inside)... I'll need to pick up a drill bit to get to the 7/8" hole size, but that's a minor thing...

 

[dirtybear7]

I just got this because it was super cheap and I had a $50.00 Amazon gift card:

Bayou-Classic-1036-Stainless-Steamer

They make an 11gl one for a little more.

They may not be the "coolest" brew pot out there but they work and are cheap. I do plan on drilling a hole for a ball valve at some point. It has worked great for 7gl boils. No worries about boil over. I also like the smaller diameter of the pot as compared to some other brew pots around that capacity. I can get 7gl to a boil on my kitchen stove without the pot spanning two burners. I think the smaller diameter cuts down on evaporation too. If you can afford a nicer, thicker brew pot specifically designed for brewing go for it. Mine was good on the cheap.

 

[Golddiggie]

I had an answer from a place where I almost purchased my ball valve kit for a brew pot a while back, but I've lost his reply... I think it was around 1 1/2 inches from center of 3/4-7/8" hole to bottom of pot, but don't quote me on that as I have not done it yet.

If you find the answer before I find the reply I got please post back here. I would think anymore than 1 1/2 inches may be too high.

I use a pellets a lot and a hop straining bag so I'm not concerned with hop pellet residue or whole hop parts getting into ferm. tank so I won't be adding the bazooka screen at least not right away.

I do remember on the cheap economy pot it was suggested to drill a small pilot hole and work the hole larger with a step drill bit. go slow and use a "cutting oil" used when cutting or drilling metal (I have heard 3-in-1 oil also works W-D 40 is too thin and has a tendency to smoke. I found that out while drilling through the top of my kegerator to install tower!)

I'm not going with a dip tube either just for simplicity I don't mind tilting the pot to get the last bit if needed but I usually leave a bit of hot break behind anyway after boil.

That's all I was looking for [initially]...

I'm using the BIAB method, as well as nylon hop bags so trub is minimal... I might install a false bottom/screen at some point, but more as something for the bag to rest on so that it won't touch the actual pot bottom...

I'm using aluminum pots, so not really any need for cutting oil/lube for drilling... I'll get either a cobalt, titanium coated, or carbide drill bit to make the hole. Should make real short work of it (probably through in a few seconds)... I have some bits already, so making a pilot hole is no issue... This is all stuff I've done before, when drilling through hard materials, like tool steel, or even annealed stainless... I might even bring the pot to a party on 2/12 so that I can have someone on hand to hold the pot while I drill it... More for safety and make things easier on me (I live alone, and my landlord/neighbor is an a$$hole)...

I'll plan on making the pilot hole about 1-1/2" from the bottom of the pot (inside)... That should leave about a gallon left in the bottom, without tilting the pot... Will have to see how much I can get out of it come next brew day...

Now, since I've taken the fittings off the back of the ball valve a few times, I need to find a diagram that shows how it really needs to go together/be installed...

 

[Golddiggie]

I just got this because it was super cheap and I had a $50.00 Amazon gift card:

Bayou-Classic-1036-Stainless-Steamer

They make an 11gl one for a little more.

They may not be the "coolest" brew pot out there but they work and are cheap. I do plan on drilling a hole for a ball valve at some point. It has worked great for 7gl boils. No worries about boil over. I also like the smaller diameter of the pot as compared to some other brew pots around that capacity. I can get 7gl to a boil on my kitchen stove without the pot spanning two burners. I think the smaller diameter cuts down on evaporation too. If you can afford a nicer, thicker brew pot specifically designed for brewing go for it. Mine was good on the cheap.

I got my 4mm thick 32 quart aluminum pot for about half of that (a few dollars for the lid)... I'll be getting the 60-80 quart pot for about that amount...

 

[dirtybear7]

I got my 4mm thick 32 quart aluminum pot for about half of that (a few dollars for the lid)... I'll be getting the 60-80 quart pot for about that amount...

Yes aluminum pots are cheaper than ss ones. I think that is a surprise to no one. I wanted ss.

 

[Brewfat]

Not even close to an answer... I don't have a dip tube and have no idea if I ever will to this pot...

Looking for more clear answer... Such as is 2" from the bottom enough? Can I place it 1" from the bottom? Should I go up to 3" from the bottom??? Does it matter at all? Can the seals that come with the kettle conversion ball valves take the heat from any height?

If you have no idea if you are doing this, why ask. Sorry i took the time to give you ideas. I suppose i could tell you how far up i put mine but ill pass.

 

[starrfish]

If you have no idea if you are doing this, why ask. Sorry i took the time to give you ideas. I suppose i could tell you how far up i put mine but ill pass.

Just out of curiosity did you make your own diptube or did you purchase one. I haven't found one in any of my catalogs... I think it would need to be pretty short correct?

 

[MalFet]

Just out of curiosity did you make your own diptube or did you purchase one. I haven't found one in any of my catalogs... I think it would need to be pretty short correct?

Brewfat will likely have his own answer of course, but after futzing about with some other solutions I just ended up getting one of these and threading it on the inside of my ball valve coupler. Drains my kettle virtually dry.

 

[maida7]

Bargain Fittings sells the valves, Weldless bulkheads and drain tubes. LINK

 

[starrfish]

Brewfat will likely have his own answer of course, but after futzing about with some other solutions I just ended up getting one of these and threading it on the inside of my ball valve coupler. Drains my kettle virtually dry.

WOW! That is a simple as it gets answer to a dip tube! I'll be using one of these as a dip tube.

How high from the bottom of your kettle is your valve mounted? About 1.5" to center of valve mount hole to bottom of the brewpot?

Thanks again for that simple solution!!!

 

[Brewfat]

Just out of curiosity did you make your own diptube or did you purchase one. I haven't found one in any of my catalogs... I think it would need to be pretty short correct?

I got it from Bargain Fittings since I ordered other things at the same time.

I should have just made one and saved a few bucks. If you can solder, a copper male adapter and a street 90 would be an easy and cheap solution for a side pickup.

 

[MalFet]

WOW! That is a simple as it gets answer to a dip tube! I'll be using one of these as a dip tube.

How high from the bottom of your kettle is your valve mounted? About 1.5" to center of valve mount hole to bottom of the brewpot?

Thanks again for that simple solution!!!

Eyeballing it, I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5" to 2". Like brewfat mentions, you can always just sweat some copper pipe to it if it doesn't quite reach as far down as you'd like.

 

[maida7]

I'd put it as low as possible