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We got to about 2/3rds of the grain and had to add hot water just to be able to stir the mash. It was like oatmeal. Ridiculous.
 
Yeah, that's exactly what happened. I did a 4.5 gallon mash with about 20 pounds of grain... In a pot just a bit too small. Normally my batches are about 10-14 pounds. Too thick this time.

O_O. That would be seriously thick. Today I brewed with 20 pounds of grain in an 11.9 gallon mash, so I can only imagine...
 
I did a 4.5 gallon mash with about 20 pounds of grain... In a pot just a bit too small. Normally my batches are about 10-14 pounds. Too thick this time.

OMG, I wouldn't have even thought that possible! That's not a mash, more like malt conditioning:D
 
Hah! Yeah, luckily I RDWHAHB'd and said, you know what? I'm still going to have beer! Woohoo!

image-3906097785.jpg
 
First all grain batch is a success!! Thanks for the help! I couldn't be happier. Had a bit of a time holding the mash temp but still managed to get my OG a bit higher than expected. All in all I'd say it was a success BIAB rules!! I can already taste a huge difference between this wort and an extract wort. I'll never go back

image-3879917550.jpg
 
Nice congratulations:rockin:

I am looking forward to my first BAIB sometime this year, but I also want to get everything in order. I have to order a new brew kettle. I want to brew 10 gallon batches of some heavy beers, or at least have the flexibility to do so. Therefore I am considering a 100 liter brew pot (if this does not work out then I could convert the pot to a 3v system). The reason behind this is, because an 80 litter might be enough but for the heavy stuff, there might not be enough room. A 100 litter pot would give me extra room for grain, however there is an issue with how high the wart will go. I am thinking 1.080. Am I right on this?

Next issue is with the trub. What is the best way to get rid of the trub? I have heard somewhere on this thread that whirl-pooling is a good idea, and I have also heard someone here say that by a double bag, like in a nylon paint strainer inside a voile material type bad that the trub was reduced by half? Which would be a better method and why? What if a combination of the two were to be applied? What would the final result be?
 
johns said:
Nice congratulations:rockin:

I am looking forward to my first BAIB sometime this year, but I also want to get everything in order. I have to order a new brew kettle. I want to brew 10 gallon batches of some heavy beers, or at least have the flexibility to do so. Therefore I am considering a 100 liter brew pot (if this does not work out then I could convert the pot to a 3v system). The reason behind this is, because an 80 litter might be enough but for the heavy stuff, there might not be enough room. A 100 litter pot would give me extra room for grain, however there is an issue with how high the wart will go. I am thinking 1.080. Am I right on this?

Next issue is with the trub. What is the best way to get rid of the trub? I have heard somewhere on this thread that whirl-pooling is a good idea, and I have also heard someone here say that by a double bag, like in a nylon paint strainer inside a voile material type bad that the trub was reduced by half? Which would be a better method and why? What if a combination of the two were to be applied? What would the final result be?

You don't need a 100 liter brew pot. I've done 5 gallons of 1.060 wort in a 10 gallon pot. If you don't mind topping up with water after the mash (before the boil) you'll be fine with a 20 gallon pot for beers in that range. Lots of people use 15.5 gallon keggle to do 10 gallon BIAB.

As for trub I don't usually worry about it, let it all go into the fermenter. A couple of times I cleaned my grain bag after the mash, and put it into my fermenter. Transferred the wort into the fermenter and then pulled the bag out, all the trub stayed in the bag. Works good but I didn't see any real benefits compared to leaving trub in the fermenter.
 
Excellent thread! I want to try an all grain batch and there are so many methods out there that require more equipment than I want to get right now. I have basically everything I need to do this method so I think I will give it a go! Thanks!

One question though, if you don't have the turkey frying basket what do you do? Just hang the bag by itself?
 
Excellent thread! I want to try an all grain batch and there are so many methods out there that require more equipment than I want to get right now. I have basically everything I need to do this method so I think I will give it a go! Thanks!

One question though, if you don't have the turkey frying basket what do you do? Just hang the bag by itself?

Adapt and overcome. Improvise. Endeavor to persevere.

Large colander
Pizza screen
Grill grate
3 or 4 dowels
etc....
 
One question though, if you don't have the turkey frying basket what do you do? Just hang the bag by itself?

yep, that's what I do. you can also place a replacement Weber grill cooking grate over you pot and sit the bag on it to let drain, place in a colander and let drain over the kettle or a second pot (did this before installing a rope and pulley). I have used my pulley to hang my original grain bag that my wife made (last weekend when doing 2 BIABs at once) as well as the bag I got from CustomBIAB which has built in handles for doing exactly that.
 
...As for trub I don't usually worry about it, let it all go into the fermenter. A couple of times I cleaned my grain bag after the mash, and put it into my fermenter. Transferred the wort into the fermenter and then pulled the bag out, all the trub stayed in the bag. Works good but I didn't see any real benefits compared to leaving trub in the fermenter.

I could see doing this as far as getting the hot break material out of the wort but you'd still have to deal with a majority of trub due to cold break material.
 
Sorry, I have another question. Would a 40 lb grain bill fit into a 5 gallon pot, or a 10 gallon cooler? I am thinking about high gravity beers that are over 1.090. I understand that I could take out the grain and sparge or add DME to increase the efficiency, but I like the idea of grain instead of adding extract more. I am seriously thinking about this and want to cover all the bases. thanks in advance
 
Sorry, I have another question. Would a 40 lb grain bill fit into a 5 gallon pot, or a 10 gallon cooler?

Sure! As long as you don't actually plan on adding water to mash it.

40# grain + 5.7 ounce water/pound takes up 5 gallons of volume

40# grain + 11.4 ounces water/pound takes up 10 gallons of volume

Standard liquor/grain ratios are 1-1.5 quarts (32-48 ounces)/pound of grain, BIAB full volume mash approaches 3+ quarts (96 ounces)/pound grain.

can I mash it?
 
Sure! As long as you don't actually plan on adding water to mash it.

40# grain + 5.7 ounce water/pound takes up 5 gallons of volume

40# grain + 11.4 ounces water/pound takes up 10 gallons of volume

Standard liquor/grain ratios are 1-1.5 quarts (32-48 ounces)/pound of grain, BIAB full volume mash approaches 3+ quarts (96 ounces)/pound grain.

can I mash it?

that makes me question the formula they use at can you mash it. I know when I buy a 55lb sack of grain, it takes 2 (and a partial 3rd) 5 gallon buckets to store it. even if I stuffed it all into 2 buckets, that would still be 27.5 pounds per bucket.

now to give the answer to the OP's question. no 40# wont fit in a 5 gallon bucket or a 10 gallon mash tun. you would need a MUCH bigger mash tun. 40# of grain would make a 1.090 11 gallon batch or a 1.193 5.5 gallon batch. If you plan on doing 11 gallons of a beer that big (or bigger) you need the equipment to handle it. a 20 gallon kettle for a 11 gallon big beer would still be tight and would require sparging for BIAB or a 35 gallon kettle for full volume. If making a 5.5 gallon 1.090 beer with 20# of grain you'd need a 20 gallon kettle for full volume BIAB of 15 gallon for BIAB with sparging
 
that makes me question the formula they use at can you mash it. I know when I buy a 55lb sack of grain, it takes 2 (and a partial 3rd) 5 gallon buckets to store it. even if I stuffed it all into 2 buckets, that would still be 27.5 pounds per bucket. sparging

Yeah, now that you put it that way (BTDT with storing grain in 5 gallon buckets).......thier formula must be more than a bit wrong.
 
Question. Is it ok to cook your mash in an aluminum pot? Just as long as your not fermenting in an aluminum pot right??
 
You can boil in aluminum. Just don't scrub off the aluminum oxide layer inside (it should NOT be shiny). My kettle is a commercial grade 60 qt aluminum pot that I got from a caterer that was going out of business.
 
iceman190 said:
Question. Is it ok to cook your mash in an aluminum pot? Just as long as your not fermenting in an aluminum pot right??

No problem with Aluminum kettles. If you have a new one and boil water in it for 30 minutes or more. This will stabilize to surface. I nick in this layer is not a big problem, it will reestablish itself in a regular wort boil.
 
did my first 3.5 gallon BIAB batch the other day and I'm kinda hooked on all grain. wanna try another batch but don't want to have to go as small as 3 gallon batches again (just as much effort for only 60% the beer). I have a 5 gallon pot and a 7.5 gallon pot. which isn't a big deal for doing 5 gallon batches, the REAL issue is that my stove DOES NOT like to boil above 4.5 MAX 5 gallons of liquid at a time... and even then it's not the greatest boil.

I was thinking. if I split the grains evenly into TWO BIAB bags and did a 2.5 gallon BIAB in each pot simultaneously THEN combined them in the ale pail and pitch my yeast like normal I could do a full 5 gallon batch without having to go out and buy a burner, and propane re-fill to do it outside on the burner. Does that sound like it will work ok?
 
did my first 3.5 gallon BIAB batch the other day and I'm kinda hooked on all grain. wanna try another batch but don't want to have to go as small as 3 gallon batches again (just as much effort for only 60% the beer). I have a 5 gallon pot and a 7.5 gallon pot. which isn't a big deal for doing 5 gallon batches, the REAL issue is that my stove DOES NOT like to boil above 4.5 MAX 5 gallons of liquid at a time... and even then it's not the greatest boil.

I was thinking. if I split the grains evenly into TWO BIAB bags and did a 2.5 gallon BIAB in each pot simultaneously THEN combined them in the ale pail and pitch my yeast like normal I could do a full 5 gallon batch without having to go out and buy a burner, and propane re-fill to do it outside on the burner. Does that sound like it will work ok?

Yes, you can absolutely do a two pot mash and boil...just plan on a lot of boil-off given two pots. Just think of it as two small batches simultaneously. OH, and FWIW IMHO don't feel yoiu have to split everything to the micron...I would just divvy up between the pots and brew...little more, little less won't matter in that you are combining it all in the end anyways....cheers.
 
Yes, you can absolutely do a two pot mash and boil...just plan on a lot of boil-off given two pots. Just think of it as two small batches simultaneously. OH, and FWIW IMHO don't feel yoiu have to split everything to the micron...I would just divvy up between the pots and brew...little more, little less won't matter in that you are combining it all in the end anyways....cheers.

sweet, that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure. I usually boil off 1/2 -2/3 of a gallon of water in 4ish gallon boil... is there a calculator or rule of them to guess how much water absorption I can expect from the grain + how much extra water I'll need to account for boil off when doing a 2.5 gallon (at the end) batch??? my first one I guessed and had to do a 90 minute boil to down to about 3.5 gallons
 
absorption is weight in lbs * .060= water absorbed.

say you had 10lbs of grain. 10 * .060 = .6 gallons absorbed. you can adjust that number up or down as needed depending on how hard you squeeze the grain bag.
 
did my first 3.5 gallon BIAB batch the other day and I'm kinda hooked on all grain. wanna try another batch but don't want to have to go as small as 3 gallon batches again (just as much effort for only 60% the beer). I have a 5 gallon pot and a 7.5 gallon pot. which isn't a big deal for doing 5 gallon batches, the REAL issue is that my stove DOES NOT like to boil above 4.5 MAX 5 gallons of liquid at a time... and even then it's not the greatest boil.

I was thinking. if I split the grains evenly into TWO BIAB bags and did a 2.5 gallon BIAB in each pot simultaneously THEN combined them in the ale pail and pitch my yeast like normal I could do a full 5 gallon batch without having to go out and buy a burner, and propane re-fill to do it outside on the burner. Does that sound like it will work ok?

Just boil 5-5.5 gal in your 7.5 gal pot then cool take an O.G. reading (it should be higher) then top it up with sterile water! The best thing about leaving a gallon or so out of your boil is you can nail your recipes O.G. every time!
 
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