Weissbier Bee Cave Brewery Bavarian Hefeweizen

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Cheers from your neighbor (kinda close) in Boerne.

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Switched out the yeast this time as I was told the 380 gives a much stronger clove profile, Has anyone tried this vs. the 3068 from Wyeast? I pitched a batch 12 days ago and still have a thick kreusen ( but little to no airlock activity), even though I let this one ferment at 66 vs my normal 62, Normally with 3068 or 3056, I have a crystal clear surface after 5-6 days, the only difference is that I have had a blow off tube connected to a bottle a foot below the fill line rather than a regular airlock, might be adding some head space pressure?
 
The coolest place in my house in July and August is the basement, at about 70F. I don't have a way to keep wort colder than that. I decided to try this recipe after brewing a Pale Ale with a lot of off flavors and after trying a Hefeweizen at Two Roads Brewery, not far from my house, that was a very nice beer. It was bubbling nicely after 24 hours. I then left for a day and a half and then found the lid to my fermenting bucket about 4 feet away from the bucket. I re-sanitized the bucket lid and bubbler and put them back on. I am hoping that there was enough of a CO2 blanket over the wort to protect if from whatever air it was exposed to. Not much else I can do at this point except proceed and see what I end up with. I haven't ever used a blow off tube and assumed I was ok, since I was using a bucket and not a carboy with a constricted neck, but I guess I was wrong. First explosion like this in about 3 years of brewing.
 
The coolest place in my house in July and August is the basement, at about 70F. I don't have a way to keep wort colder than that. I decided to try this recipe after brewing a Pale Ale with a lot of off flavors and after trying a Hefeweizen at Two Roads Brewery, not far from my house, that was a very nice beer. It was bubbling nicely after 24 hours. I then left for a day and a half and then found the lid to my fermenting bucket about 4 feet away from the bucket. I re-sanitized the bucket lid and bubbler and put them back on. I am hoping that there was enough of a CO2 blanket over the wort to protect if from whatever air it was exposed to. Not much else I can do at this point except proceed and see what I end up with. I haven't ever used a blow off tube and assumed I was ok, since I was using a bucket and not a carboy with a constricted neck, but I guess I was wrong. First explosion like this in about 3 years of brewing.

you can chill it with a swamp cooler, put a wet T-shirt over the bucket and aim a fan at it, keep the t-shirt wet, should get you a few degrees cooler, and thats all it takes
 
I am planning on brewing a 1 gallon version to this recipe. I have a couple questions:
- Can I use Safale WB-06 instead of Wyeast 3068? If so should I just pitch 1/2 of the package? If there is a better yeast, let me know. At this point in my brewing career I'm not yet comfortable using liquid yeast.
-I read thru 65 pages of this post. I believe someone mentioned red wheat. Is this preferred over Weyermann German Light (Pale) Wheat Malt? Just want to make sure I get the correct grain.
- Rice hulls.. I am a BIAB brewer. is rice hulls necessary> I know the recipe says "if needed". If it's necessary then I will get some.

I do not want to stray from the original recipe. If using dry yeast will make alot of difference then I'll use liquid and figure it out.
Thanks
Eddie
 
Id shoot for a 2.5 to 3 gallon batch. No need for rice hulls if you are BIAB and def use a smack pack of 3068. It's perfect for a 3 gallon batch. Dry yeast just does not produce the same esters and phenols of liquid yeast. They use strains of yeast that are suited for dehydration. In the case of Torulaspora (Hefeweizen yeast) they have not quite gotten that right yet
 
I am planning on brewing a 1 gallon version to this recipe. I have a couple questions:
- Can I use Safale WB-06 instead of Wyeast 3068? If so should I just pitch 1/2 of the package? If there is a better yeast, let me know. At this point in my brewing career I'm not yet comfortable using liquid yeast.
-I read thru 65 pages of this post. I believe someone mentioned red wheat. Is this preferred over Weyermann German Light (Pale) Wheat Malt? Just want to make sure I get the correct grain.
- Rice hulls.. I am a BIAB brewer. is rice hulls necessary> I know the recipe says "if needed". If it's necessary then I will get some.

I do not want to stray from the original recipe. If using dry yeast will make alot of difference then I'll use liquid and figure it out.
Thanks
Eddie

I did a cherry wheat extract kit from my LHBS late in the winter when I was recovering from a broken leg. It had Safale WB-06 yeast. It was in the upper 50s in my basement but it chugged away and was done in 2 weeks. It had a nice clove flavor to it, mainly due to the cold temperature I'm assuming. Don't know if it gives off banana esters at warmer temps but I liked it. It may be more like WLP380 than the 300 or wyeast 3068
 
Finally! 5 attempts and it's perfect! The first was an extract version, my wife's favorite. Next 2 partial mash attempts. Lastly 2 all grain versions, with this last one bordering on phenomenal! I followed eds recipe exactly except I added 2 oz of acid malt. My well h2o is extremely alkaline, so I figured the acid malt would help with mash. All my numbers were an exact match with eds. I kept the fermentation temps between 62F-65F ,then let it go to 75F after 7 days. It's 90 degrees right now and this beer is tasting sooooo good! Pictures to come. Prost!
 
Finally! 5 attempts and it's perfect! The first was an extract version, my wife's favorite. Next 2 partial mash attempts. Lastly 2 all grain versions, with this last one bordering on phenomenal! I followed eds recipe exactly except I added 2 oz of acid malt. My well h2o is extremely alkaline, so I figured the acid malt would help with mash. All my numbers were an exact match with eds. I kept the fermentation temps between 62F-65F ,then let it go to 75F after 7 days. It's 90 degrees right now and this beer is tasting sooooo good! Pictures to come. Prost!


Congrats. Maybe try the acid malt in all your beers. I've seen many people on here that use it to get their PH down
 
I just brewed this Saturday.

Just curious, is a starter really necessary? I woke up 8 hours later to the airlock screaming, and a few hours later evolved to shooting a stream of brew 10 feet up into the air, thus needing a blow off tube setup :)

I also messed up water somehow. Plugged this into Beersmith and ended up with a gallon less! I put in 3.5 gallons as recommended for mash, sparged with 4.2 gallons. I'm kinda stumped on that. Maybe I measured wrong..
 
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I call this my nightmare brew. First brew made in my new apt, and I was woefully unprepared. Ran out of propane, stuck sparge, major boilover, missed OG by 10 points, and found out at 2am when it was finally all done that I misplaced the lid for my fermentation bucket somewhere in the move...so unintentional open fermentation!

All said and done, it came out great
 
Well your starter question is a matter of debate. I have made a starter in about 95% of my brews. In my 4 previous weizen brews I made a starter and always had violent fermentation requiring a blow off. This last time I pitched the vial straight in. No starter as I wanted to under pitch and stress the yeast. I hoped the yeast would create different flavors and aromas. I mentioned above I kept the fermentation temps low and steady. I also used a 7.5g carboy with 5.5g of wort. I didn't even come close to a blow off. This batch was probably the best beer I have made yet. So the short answer to the question is.....there is no right or wrong answer. The question really should be what do you want your end result to taste like! Prost!View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1438820047.417184.jpg
 
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Decided to make this last minute with a friend on July 10. Had to make some substitutions due to availability of ingredients. Specifically, I had to sub US White Wheat for German Wheat, US Liberty for Hallertau (I believe they are closely related) and had to use Wyeast 3056. (No starter.) Fermented at 68, kegged after two weeks later and carbed for another two weeks. Started drinking it two days ago--amazing beer. Will definitely make it again exactly the same--substitutions and all. Good as-is and also with a slice of orange. (Sacrilege, I know.)

Outstanding.
 
I brewed this a few weeks ago. It tastes great but I have a question about clarity.
That was my first brew with such a high amount of wheat. I was under the impression that the wheat will make the beer hazy, but I can’t confirm that.
The beer is crystal clear when I pour from the bottle, it only gets hazy when I shake up the yeast at the bottom and pour it in.

Did I get that wrong all the time, or what?

Thanks.
 
I have a question about this recipe. I brewed a 2 gallon batch on 9/6. Followed the boil time/mash temp & time and ferm temps. 14 days in primary then bottled.

To me, this beer does not taste good. Has a weird taste and mouthfeel. My question is when Pilsner Malt is used, I thought the boil time should be 90 min to allow for DMS removal. The boil time shows 60 min which is what I did. it very well could have been me, my process or something else or maybe I just don't like this style of beer but everyone who has tried it says it has a strange taste.

Anyone have issues with this recipe?
 
Hey guys this looks like a great recipie and I just ordered the ingredients:)

One question I have is about the best size starter to make for this beer? I have read that its best to underpitch to stress the yeast to increase the banana/clove character is this what you guys are doing? I believe I read that Edwort used 1/2 cup DME to 16oz water,so just wondering how this size starter would compare to my usual 1.5L starter that is usually about 160g dme to 1600 mls water??

Does starter volume matter if you keep the ratios the same and end up with a 1.030-1.040 gravity starter wort???

sorry for the newb question:)

Jamie.
 
Hey guys this looks like a great recipie and I just ordered the ingredients:)

One question I have is about the best size starter to make for this beer? I have read that its best to underpitch to stress the yeast to increase the banana/clove character is this what you guys are doing? I believe I read that Edwort used 1/2 cup DME to 16oz water,so just wondering how this size starter would compare to my usual 1.5L starter that is usually about 160g dme to 1600 mls water??

Does starter volume matter if you keep the ratios the same and end up with a 1.030-1.040 gravity starter wort???

sorry for the newb question:)

Jamie.

I'll let those who have brewed this reply to your starter question, but I will say that I plan to brew it in a couple weeks, and since Wyeast 3068 is a smack pack, I'm not planning to make a starter.
 
I made an extract version


4# breiss dry wheat extract
2# breiss dry pilsen malt extract
6 oz carapils steeped @ 155 for 30 min
1/2 oz hallertau @ 60 min
1/2 oz hallertau @ 15

1liter starter of wyeast 3068

fermented in a 62-64 degree water bath for 14 days

crash cooled and kegged/force carbed @ room temp at 40psi for 20 min 2 days ago

Perfect!

FYI, the pic looks quite a bit lighter than the actual beer.

Brewing this version as I type. I couldn't get hallertau so I substituted tettnanger instead, which my LHBS said was the closest they had...

Excited to try this out!
 
I'll let those who have brewed this reply to your starter question, but I will say that I plan to brew it in a couple weeks, and since Wyeast 3068 is a smack pack, I'm not planning to make a starter.

I always make a starter with any liquid yeast..there is just not enough in there to be guaranteed to be alive to make me comfortable that I am actually pitching enough without a starter. I also know that my yeast is good beforehand with a starter as well.
Underpitching can keep a beer from being all it can really be.
YMMV
 
I always make a starter with any liquid yeast..there is just not enough in there to be guaranteed to be alive to make me comfortable that I am actually pitching enough without a starter. I also know that my yeast is good beforehand with a starter as well.
Underpitching can keep a beer from being all it can really be.
YMMV

I appreciate the advice, and I know it would probably be better to do so, but I don't have the equipment or space to make starters yet. All my previous brews have been with hydrated dry yeast. Plus, per the Wyeast website, the smack pack is supposed to be the correct amount for beers under 1.060. I'm shooting for 1.052. here are their instructions:

https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_makingastarter.cfm
 
So what's the deal with Hallertau hops? I usually use this link to review hop profiles: http://www.homebrewstuff.com/hop-profiles

Per this link, there are five different Hallertau hops. A domestic version, a NZ version, and three different German versions, Hallertauer, Hersbrucker and Mittelfruh. I assume for the most correct style Bavarian hefeweizen that I should use one of the German varieties in this beer. But which one, and why?
 
I appreciate the advice, and I know it would probably be better to do so, but I don't have the equipment or space to make starters yet. All my previous brews have been with hydrated dry yeast. Plus, per the Wyeast website, the smack pack is supposed to be the correct amount for beers under 1.060. I'm shooting for 1.052. here are their instructions:

https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_makingastarter.cfm

I tend to just use large sanitized mason jars with the lids loosely tightened for my starters..nothing fancy, expensive or anything that takes up any large amount of room or equipment to make. All you need besides a small amount of DME/water for the wort and the sanitized large mason jar is a shelf in a closet to set the starter for a day or 2 while it "starts". Should be easy-peasy and help give you that piece of mind you are pitching enough and the yeast is healthy. Those numbers Wyeast puts on those packages from what I have been told is the number of yeast cells alive at the time of packaging..poor storage or temp swings during the time it was packaged to when it gets into your hands can affect that number negatively so there is no guarantee that that cell count is accurate when pitched.
Again..YMMV.

:mug:
 
So what's the deal with Hallertau hops? I usually use this link to review hop profiles: http://www.homebrewstuff.com/hop-profiles

Per this link, there are five different Hallertau hops. A domestic version, a NZ version, and three different German versions, Hallertauer, Hersbrucker and Mittelfruh. I assume for the most correct style Bavarian hefeweizen that I should use one of the German varieties in this beer. But which one, and why?

Anyone care to share which Hallertau hops you are using in this beer?
 
Anyone care to share which Hallertau hops you are using in this beer?

At 10-13 IBU's, I doubt it matters. Hefeweizen is a yeast driven beer, so any of the German Hallertau varieties should be just fine. If you read through the first pages, EdWort indicates that the IBU's are far more important than the specific variety.
 
At 10-13 IBU's, I doubt it matters. Hefeweizen is a yeast driven beer, so any of the German Hallertau varieties should be just fine. If you read through the first pages, EdWort indicates that the IBU's are far more important than the specific variety.

I have used all three german varieties with no discernable variation in hop profile. All about that yeast!

Cool, thanks! Most of the other beers I've made are ALL about the hops, so I didn't realize it wouldn't matter.
 
Cool, thanks! Most of the other beers I've made are ALL about the hops, so I didn't realize it wouldn't matter.

IMO just don't go to extremes and use an inappropriate hop. I tried a couple of batches using Horizon hops because the HBS catalog said they had a European noble character, but these weren't as good as when I used Tettnang or Hallertau. Even though it is bittering hops, I still feel it lends flavor.
 
My Hallertau hops and Wyeast 3068 arrived yesterday! I will buy my grains this weekend and brew up this beauty one day next week. I've been getting excellent efficiency lately, and want to keep this down in the low 5% ranges, so will back off to 10 pounds of grain.

Q1: Does it make any discernable difference if I do a 60/40 or a 65/35 wheat to pilsner ratio?

Q2: What's the purpose for the 90 min mash? I've never intentionally done more than 60 minutes.

Q3: I assume with pilsner malt that I also need to boil for 90 minutes. Last 90 minute boil I did, I ended up with lower than desired volume due to my kettle being just 9 gallons. Safe starting level is about 7.75 gallons, so I was thinking of pulling off that amount, then putting another gallon into my mash tun while I begin the boil, and topping the kettle back up just before the first hop addition. Good or bad idea? Or should I just top up with straight water? Either way I would run my calcs with a beginning boil volume of 8.5-8.75 gallons.
 
My Hallertau hops and Wyeast 3068 arrived yesterday! I will buy my grains this weekend and brew up this beauty one day next week. I've been getting excellent efficiency lately, and want to keep this down in the low 5% ranges, so will back off to 10 pounds of grain.

Q1: Does it make any discernable difference if I do a 60/40 or a 65/35 wheat to pilsner ratio?

Q2: What's the purpose for the 90 min mash? I've never intentionally done more than 60 minutes.

Q3: I assume with pilsner malt that I also need to boil for 90 minutes. Last 90 minute boil I did, I ended up with lower than desired volume due to my kettle being just 9 gallons. Safe starting level is about 7.75 gallons, so I was thinking of pulling off that amount, then putting another gallon into my mash tun while I begin the boil, and topping the kettle back up just before the first hop addition. Good or bad idea? Or should I just top up with straight water? Either way I would run my calcs with a beginning boil volume of 8.5-8.75 gallons.

Bump. Anyone have thoughts on my questions?
 
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