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AZ's Keezer Build

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j_adkison27

Active Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2010
Messages
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Location
San Diego
Hi everyone. I've never started a thread but I thought some of my keezer ideas were pretty unique and since starting, I have become quite proud of it! I started this after extensive reading on this site - so thank you all! I received most of my build inspiration from TomSD's extensive and well documented build:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/

Here goes...
 
I started off with the popular GE 7.0 freezer. I got it for a steal at HD for $186 a few months ago. Since then, I have been saving and researching on how to get this done right.
GE_7'_FREEZER-FCM7SUWW.jpg
 
I taped off the seal between the body and the lid and painted the whole thing with black chalkboard paint. I lightly scuffed the outside with fine sandpaper and used a primer. I'm not sure it was necessary but that's what I did. I disconnected the facia with the temp control on the front and painted it and the grill on the right side separately. I used a total of 3 cans. The first coat, even when dry was very prone to scratching.

keezer 1.jpg


keezer2.jpg
 
I scrounged some wheels from around work. I made a dolly out of 2x3 and attached the wheels. I originally wanted to keep the wood frame away from the exterior of the keezer but in hindsight, i should have extended the wood out fully - flush with the outside. This would give me better attachment purchase for the skirt that I plan on putting around the bottom to hide the wheels. If you decide to use the casters that turn as I did on one end, ensure you attach them inboard enough to allow them to rotate free of any skirting you may apply to hide them.

wheels.jpg


dolly.jpg
 
I made the collar out of 5 1/2" x 1/2" redwood. Before you all go crazy with the replies on how dumb of a wood choice that was - just hang on for a bit. I 45'd the front joints and joined the rear panel in "stupid simple" fashion because I SUCK at making 45 deg joints! The decor will cover the screws later down the line.

keezer3.jpg


keezer4.jpg
 
The next part is quite unique. I would love to claim that I came up with it but my buddy Tim did. We originally wanted to reinforce the flimsy, porous, soft redwood with 1x6 poplar. It ended up being too wide. If you are familiar with this freezer, there is a lip that is stepped down toward the interior. It provides a 3/4" shelf that works perfectly for the size of lumber that Tim donated to me. I made another collar out of the 1x6 and dropped it in as well. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this but I haven't seen it posted anywhere. We filled the gap with expanding foam and are waiting for that to cure up tonight. A note on the foam. I lined the top lip and the stepped down lip of the freezer with tape. I set both collars on the tape in the exact spot where it will end up and clamped it down. I taped the top of both collars to ensure they won't get the sticky foam on them either. This effectively molds the foam to the exact shape necessary for the now unified collar to rest on the freezer. You could still opt for either option of the collar resting on the freezer or moving with the lid. Mine will rest on top. I know the paint looks shoddy in these photos but I have rubbed loose chalk on it as directed on the instrukshuns.

keezer5.jpg


keezer6.jpg
 
I put spacer blocks between the two collars and attached the OEM hinges. Here is how it looks now. We'll see how far the foam expanded tomorrow...

hinges.jpg


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Ok. So the expanding foam idea, while good in theory, was poor in execution. I completely under estimated the power of this stuff to expand, even with room to diffuse. Some of you probably knew this would happen It bowed out the collar. End state: I removed the foam. I will use some other insulator and tidy up the seal around the lid.

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I added a kick plate or skirt to the bottom portion to hide the casters. It is painted with bronze metallic that isn't properly represented in the photo. The overall look will resemble a steampunk theme. I temporarily mounted the Johnson analog controller (bronzed) to the collar. All regs, dials, and gauges will be mounted on the exterior in keeping with the theme. Does anyone know of any adverse effects that may result of having short portions of air hose exposed to unconditioned air? Example steampunk art for anyone unfamiliar.

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Air hose? Do you mean the gas line? Unconditioned air? I'm not really sure what you are asking here. (taking a shot in the dark) If you're storing the CO2 tank in the cooled area and a little bit of the gas line runs out of the area I don't see how it would have any bad effects.

Also those holes in the collar look mighty small to be for taps?
 
Hi

Just a thought here - you really don't want your CO2 regulator inside the freezer. It's going to be damp in there from time to time and regulators don't like that much at all.

Bob
 
Hi

Just a thought here - you really don't want your CO2 regulator inside the freezer. It's going to be damp in there from time to time and regulators don't like that much at all.

Bob

I keep mine inside the freezer, as do a great number of other people. Then again some people don't. You can use something like DampRid to keep the moisture down inside of the freezer.
 
Jeebas:
Yes, I was referring to the air lines that will run from the tank that will remain inside the keezer. I want them to run to a reg that will be located on the outside, then immediately back into the keezer. Also, the holes are just pilot holes. I will be cutting the full size holes later.

Bob:
I have heard of many people running their tank on the inside. Do you know of any Pro/Cons to this approach?

Cheers.
AZ
 
Hi

Just a thought here - you really don't want your CO2 regulator inside the freezer. It's going to be damp in there from time to time and regulators don't like that much at all.

Bob

I am confused by this as well. What is your reasoning? I've had mine in the freezer for years without issue. Sure the gauge for the Co2 tank is never accurate, but by the time it gets into the red it's time to switch it anyway. Having a second tank on hand solves this problem.
 
Much sanding, lacquering, and polishing today - so not much visual progress. I did some of the lighting system installed.

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I've filled the double wall with pipe insulation and covered the whole thing with caulk. I've added a piece of copper tubing above the skirt (aesthetic only - it will tie into the theme). I've removed the original temperature control faceplate with the intention of covering it up. The collar has been solidly fixed to the freezer (3 day cure, just to be sure) and the lid is firmly secured. Finally, taps and shanks arrived. I am operational but am going to wait until all the trim pieces and additional gizmos are attached until I bring it home and fill it with beer.

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Yes, just like that! I want to have regs on the outside. It'll fit in with my wife's steampunk theme. I made some tubing thing to hide the power cord for the thermostat today... Didn't finish. Pics to follow.
We ended up getting right tore up with Chuck and Nick - the brewer and rep from Green Flash. If you haven't tried it yet: Rayon Vert. Cali IPA and dry, tart Belgium in harmony. Awesome. Now if I can only copy it...
 
I have pretty much hit a stopping point until I gather all of the various accoutrement for the outside. Here is how she stands now... More to follow.

image-1259862614.jpg
 
I am confused by this as well. What is your reasoning? I've had mine in the freezer for years without issue. Sure the gauge for the Co2 tank is never accurate, but by the time it gets into the red it's time to switch it anyway. Having a second tank on hand solves this problem.

Hi

Many keezers are damp regardless of how much people try to dry them out. Regulators are made of a bunch of metal parts. Some of the metal rusts. I have several rusty regulators lying around in the scrap parts bucket here. When they rust they can mess up.

Bob
 
I've filled the double wall with pipe insulation and covered the whole thing with caulk. I've added a piece of copper tubing above the skirt (aesthetic only - it will tie into the theme). I've removed the original temperature control faceplate with the intention of covering it up. The collar has been solidly fixed to the freezer (3 day cure, just to be sure) and the lid is firmly secured. Finally, taps and shanks arrived. I am operational but am going to wait until all the trim pieces and additional gizmos are attached until I bring it home and fill it with beer.

Nice work on this and a very unique theme too :mug:

Did you do anything on the bottom of the collar to seal the insulation in? That's a wide joint for the caulk - what did you use?
 
I glued the collar to the freezer with some very impressive stuff. I'll post a pic of it later. It takes forever to cure but is some of the strongest at a range of temperatures yet flexible enough to not become brittle. I have caulked around both inside and outside bottom of the collar/freezer joint with black silicon caulk. I used plain white over that black foam pipe insulation that I squished into that void. I pushed the foam down far enough so that the highest part of it is covered by about 1/4" of caulk. The caulk was smoothed to flush with a putty knife. That was tricky! It did take two tubes but the finished product looks so much better when you open the top. I know a lot of you may not care what the inside looks like but I do.
 
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