Automating Grain-In

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MikeRussell

The Brew Shed!
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Hey, brewers!

For the scope of this discussion, I would like to find a simple/clever/cheap way of automating the grain-in stage. I searched through about 6 pages of posts on the automation forum and didn't find anything that jumped out at me. Maybe I didn't get enough coffee - feel free to link me to other discussions if you feel like I might benefit or if there are cool ideas I should check out.

First, a little background:

I'm running a BrewTroller based electric brewing system which has a series of stages such as Fill, Preheat, Grain-In, Refill, Mash, Sparge, Boil, Chill. Some of these require user intervention and some don't.

Currently, I manually Fill the HLT with cold, filtered water the night before and set the Preheat step on delay. As soon as the delay has completed, the system will Preheat the strike water for me. When I wake up I transfer some of the hot water to the mash tun, add grain and start mashing. Wort is recirculated using a HERMS coil as necessary to maintain temperature during the mash. I then intervene again to set valves for fly sparging and I'm sure you're all familiar with the rest of the process.

I've made countless batches this way and I'm really happy with how the system works. The very minor amount of interaction when I wake up is awesome - I just have to add grain and go back to my coffee and breakfast. That said, the tinkerer in me wants to see what else I can do.

I've done a couple experiments where I filled the tun with cold water and crushed grain the night before. This mixture sat for about 8 hours before the Preheat stage kicked in and walked right through the mash. I didn't notice any off aromas or flavors when I came back to check on it and the brewday went really smooth. The idea of leaving crushed grain in ~50-60 degree water overnight sounds like I'm asking for trouble. It might be okay since no starch-to-sugar conversion has taken place but I would rather avoid the potential risk.

I've also toyed with the idea of having an overnight mash. From what I've read there shouldn't be any major problems if I mash while I sleep. After all, if I keep the temperatures around 150 no buggies should be able to grow, right? This sounds like quite a bit of wasted energy to maintain temperatures for that amount of time.

Okay, back to the topic at hand.

What I would like to achieve is the ability to prepare the system the night before so everything up through mashing is complete before user intervention is required. I'm currently happy with manually filling kettles with cold water and crushing grain - if the system could add the crushed grain to the preheated water I would be able to shave another hour off of the (already short) brew day and avoid the potential spoilage and energy waste mentioned above.

A simple solution: place the grain mill on top of the tun and set a drill (or other motor) to grind the grain directly when the time is right. I'm not in love with this option as it will likely expose the rollers (mine are aluminum I believe) to a steamy sauna session while the tun is heated and during the mash. What do you think?

Another alternative I've considered is building a crushed grain hopper and using a drill powered auger like this - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HD7OHOS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 - Perhaps I could put the auger inside a PVC pipe so less is exposed to the steamy mash tun. I expect the flour created while grinding would get stuck to the auger since it'll be so steamy. I would expect a little bit of the grain would get stuck in the auger or hopper area but hopefully not much. Still this would be better than putting the mill directly on top.

A final idea I've toyed around with is setting up a hopper with a solenoid to trigger a trap door at the base. The trap door will really be the only thing directly exposed to steam which would probably be fine. IU could see a couple conditions where this goes awry. If the trap door part is too large, it could cause significant dough balls. I would be recirculating while this happens so it might not be the biggest problem, just something to think about. Also, if the trap door is too small, grain could easily get stuck in the hopper.

If you have managed to read this far, I applaud your perseverance. You deserve an award and a cookie. And a beer.

TLDR- if you have automated the grain-in stage, share your solution! How did you do it? Auger? Grind directly into the tun? Trap door? Show some pics!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey, brewers!

For the scope of this discussion, I would like to find a simple/clever/cheap way of automating the grain-in stage. I searched through about 6 pages of posts on the automation forum and didn't find anything that jumped out at me. Maybe I didn't get enough coffee - feel free to link me to other discussions if you feel like I might benefit or if there are cool ideas I should check out.

First, a little background:

I'm running a BrewTroller based electric brewing system which has a series of stages such as Fill, Preheat, Grain-In, Refill, Mash, Sparge, Boil, Chill. Some of these require user intervention and some don't.

Currently, I manually Fill the HLT with cold, filtered water the night before and set the Preheat step on delay. As soon as the delay has completed, the system will Preheat the strike water for me. When I wake up I transfer some of the hot water to the mash tun, add grain and start mashing. Wort is recirculated using a HERMS coil as necessary to maintain temperature during the mash. I then intervene again to set valves for fly sparging and I'm sure you're all familiar with the rest of the process.

I've made countless batches this way and I'm really happy with how the system works. The very minor amount of interaction when I wake up is awesome - I just have to add grain and go back to my coffee and breakfast. That said, the tinkerer in me wants to see what else I can do.

I've done a couple experiments where I filled the tun with cold water and crushed grain the night before. This mixture sat for about 8 hours before the Preheat stage kicked in and walked right through the mash. I didn't notice any off aromas or flavors when I came back to check on it and the brewday went really smooth. The idea of leaving crushed grain in ~50-60 degree water overnight sounds like I'm asking for trouble. It might be okay since no starch-to-sugar conversion has taken place but I would rather avoid the potential risk.

I've also toyed with the idea of having an overnight mash. From what I've read there shouldn't be any major problems if I mash while I sleep. After all, if I keep the temperatures around 150 no buggies should be able to grow, right? This sounds like quite a bit of wasted energy to maintain temperatures for that amount of time.

Okay, back to the topic at hand.

What I would like to achieve is the ability to prepare the system the night before so everything up through mashing is complete before user intervention is required. I'm currently happy with manually filling kettles with cold water and crushing grain - if the system could add the crushed grain to the preheated water I would be able to shave another hour off of the (already short) brew day and avoid the potential spoilage and energy waste mentioned above.

A simple solution: place the grain mill on top of the tun and set a drill (or other motor) to grind the grain directly when the time is right. I'm not in love with this option as it will likely expose the rollers (mine are aluminum I believe) to a steamy sauna session while the tun is heated and during the mash. What do you think?

Another alternative I've considered is building a crushed grain hopper and using a drill powered auger like this - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HD7OHOS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 - Perhaps I could put the auger inside a PVC pipe so less is exposed to the steamy mash tun. I expect the flour created while grinding would get stuck to the auger since it'll be so steamy. I would expect a little bit of the grain would get stuck in the auger or hopper area but hopefully not much. Still this would be better than putting the mill directly on top.

A final idea I've toyed around with is setting up a hopper with a solenoid to trigger a trap door at the base. The trap door will really be the only thing directly exposed to steam which would probably be fine. IU could see a couple conditions where this goes awry. If the trap door part is too large, it could cause significant dough balls. I would be recirculating while this happens so it might not be the biggest problem, just something to think about. Also, if the trap door is too small, grain could easily get stuck in the hopper.

If you have managed to read this far, I applaud your perseverance. You deserve an award and a cookie. And a beer.

TLDR- if you have automated the grain-in stage, share your solution! How did you do it? Auger? Grind directly into the tun? Trap door? Show some pics!
Kladue has done it with an auger
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/members/kladue

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the heads up! I posted a reply asking about a step-by-step - do you know if one is available for that build?

I also stumbled upon some 1" or 1.5" auger bits today - they might be a neat way to skip ahead. Pretty easy to automate a drill :)

Also a friend suggested a hair dryer and PVC. Sounds like my kinda trick, haha. I might give it a test because it would be so cheap to mock up.
 
Thanks for the heads up! I posted a reply asking about a step-by-step
You want the easy way out:D

do you know if one is available for that build?
He made the auger himself, send Kladue a PM and ask him.

Also a friend suggested a hair dryer and PVC. Sounds like my kinda trick, haha. I might give it a test because it would be so cheap to mock up.
I don't think a hair dryer can do it, show me otherwise.
Air vacuum nozzles are available starting at $90.00, require compressed air.

I hope more brewers reply and show there system.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it?

I would worry that an automated system would screw something up and cause a fire.

I'm old school though...

metal%20scoop.jpg
 
FWIW here are a few pictures of the screw conveyor, 1-1/4" copper inner pipe, wound with 1/4" od copper tube, soldered full length, running in a 2" SS tube. Power is a 1/8 HP motor with 1-3/4" pulley driving a 4" pulley. Shafts were 1/2", and washers were welded on to center tube and connect the copper inner to the shaft.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110297595278760536729/ScrewConveyor?noredirect=1#5188941875307268178.
This works well with the powered Valley mill at the top, and the crush falls directly into the mash tun.
This is part of a nearly hands off automated system, way beyond what would be considered sane and cost effective, but lets me do other brewing chores while not blowing me up.
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it?

I would worry that an automated system would screw something up and cause a fire.

I'm old school though...

metal%20scoop.jpg

But to the OP it is broke - it gets him out of bed a whole hour earlier than he should need to be :D
And I'm surprised Claudius that you have not already done it :D
I don't think blowing/vacuum transporting crushed grain would work as the dust (which is the most important part since it is the starches) would most likely get blown right out the top of the tun.
This is one of those things that I can see a lot of money being spent doing it right... or doing it on the cheap and it not really working for you.

OP what sort of budget are you looking at?
If it were me I would be looking at mounting the a grist hopper above the tun, with a pneumatic knife gate. The build a simple grain hydrator to ensure the grain is nicely wetted before hitting the tun. Process would be:
  • Place crushed grain in grist hopper night before
  • Set up as normal
  • strike water pumped over to MLT
  • recirc mash water through HERMS and then into mash hydrator
  • open grist hopper gate and mash in

Matutu Brewery in Rarotonga have something similar to this setup
1544977_10152259237699703_1749294561_n.jpg

1010392_10152259238179703_513211298_n.jpg
 
But to the OP it is broke - it gets him out of bed a whole hour earlier than he should need to be :D
Home brewing is a very demanding hobby:D

I don't think blowing/vacuum transporting crushed grain would work as the dust (which is the most important part since it is the starches) would most likely get blown right out the top of the tun.
A good design and it will work.
You can add a hydrator too.

http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary Navigation/Products/Air Operated Conveyors/Pages/Line Vac.aspx

If it were me I would be looking at mounting the a grist hopper above the tun, with a pneumatic knife gate.
Like this, pneumatic or electric?

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

100_5574.jpg


100_4358.jpg
 
Wow, a ton of responses, I love it! With all of this I'm really happy to get opposing ideas or opinions - feel free to poke holes in what I come up with! I'm a really lighthearted person so often times what I type is in jest - take for what it's worth I suppose.

Regarding if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think the saying is if it works, it's obsolete. ;)

Regarding automated systems blowing up or burning. My current brewing system was my first dive into wiring, electronics and my first time working with high voltage. Just imagine how much I was sweating when I fired it up the first time. Hah.

Thanks for the input with the large scoop - I'm not sure how big the scoop would need to be to fit the entire crushed grain bill and how much energy it would take to knock it over tipping the grain into the tun.

Klaude thanks for your response - I'm well on my way to the same level of insanity. As mentioned before the only times I currently touch the system is to add grain, sparge and add hops. With this minor change I'll start the brew day with mashing complete. That'll be nice. Next up would be valves to control sparge.

When considering making my own auger I figured I would be cutting discs and spreading them out on the pipe. Dang, bending copper around the center pipe would be significantly simpler.

Your mill crushes directly into the tun? Do you get flour buildup on the rollers? Is the tun preheated by the time you crush grain? If you're happy with things running this way maybe I'll give it a try. This may be the quickest and simplest to implement - the mill is already mounted to a board I just have to place it on top of the tun and attach my drill, really. I've already got a spare outlet ready to automate for this purpose. I really like this idea - can anyone come up with negatives on this?

Mattd2 thanks for your response as well. Budget is an interesting concept. Have yet to try it. I expect most projects to get done between two weeks and never but people don't tend to like that answer. For this project, I expect to do a bit on my own to save cost and maintain the spirit of DIY. I will definitely not go out and spend a grand for an industrial auger but I don't mind paying a little extra in places for a shortcut. If it ends up costing more, I'll just wait longer before acting on it.

The concept you mentioned is really neat. In the one I described in the novel above (sorry about that again) I figured I would mount a hopper above the tun and use a different type of valve. In mine I would just have a trap door that swings open, dumping the grain into the tun. While the mash is recirculating the grain would hit directly into the stream of hot water, allowing them to mix and splash around together. Great minds, right? Hmm, I could probably just use a solenoid to hold the door closed.

Regarding the blowdryer idea - here's a mockup a buddy put together:

http://s8.postimg.org/c1ufm3h6t/blowdryer_idea.jpg

The grist would be blown directly into the top of the tun - perhaps through a hole in the lid - and hit about the same spot the hot water is running. I dunno how much flour I will lose - does this sound pretty legit? I don't know how powerful the blower would have to be, but I suppose I could always get a bigger fan, vroom vroom.

To hopefully add more insight into the project, I really don't need to move the grain far. If I went with an auger to deliver grain to the tun, it would really only move grain a few inches. I could make a hopper for the crushed grain and probably mount it right next to the tun (if not above) so the auger would really just be used to slowly deliver grain to avoid dough balls. At least, that was the idea I had with the auger bits. 1" PVC pipe with an auger bit inside at the base of the hopper. As soon as the time comes, the drill starts running which pushes the grain out the end of the pipe.

Hmm, I should add photos of the shed I'm brewing out of. Let's see if facebook lets me.

https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/993321_10201627186263922_60872226_n.jpg

From left to right is HLT, BK and MLT. I can mount brackets directly to the studs if I need to.
 
Woah, awesome pictures, ClaudiusB. I was writing when you posted those. Is that your setup? Really that type of system would be perfect for what I'm trying to do!
 
Home brewing is a very demanding hobby:D


A good design and it will work.
You can add a hydrator too.

http://www.exair.com/en-US/Primary Navigation/Products/Air Operated Conveyors/Pages/Line Vac.aspx


Like this, pneumatic or electric?

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
Yeah didn’t put the hydrator idea and pneumatic conveying together – I’m used to transporting milk powders of wood chip via pneumatics and then you start needing cyclons and bag house to keep the dust down. If you hydrated at the end of the tube when the grain drops into the tun you would knock all the flour dust down into the tun where you want it :D
…
Regarding if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I think the saying is if it works, it's obsolete. ;)
I like that saying! Or the engineers saying " If it works, it doesn't have enough features yet" :D
Mattd2 thanks for your response as well. Budget is an interesting concept. Have yet to try it. I expect most projects to get done between two weeks and never but people don't tend to like that answer. For this project, I expect to do a bit on my own to save cost and maintain the spirit of DIY. I will definitely not go out and spend a grand for an industrial auger but I don't mind paying a little extra in places for a shortcut. If it ends up costing more, I'll just wait longer before acting on it.

The concept you mentioned is really neat. In the one I described in the novel above (sorry about that again) I figured I would mount a hopper above the tun and use a different type of valve. In mine I would just have a trap door that swings open, dumping the grain into the tun. While the mash is recirculating the grain would hit directly into the stream of hot water, allowing them to mix and splash around together. Great minds, right? Hmm, I could probably just use a solenoid to hold the door closed.

Regarding the blowdryer idea - here's a mockup a buddy put together:

http://s8.postimg.org/c1ufm3h6t/blowdryer_idea.jpg

The grist would be blown directly into the top of the tun - perhaps through a hole in the lid - and hit about the same spot the hot water is running. I dunno how much flour I will lose - does this sound pretty legit? I don't know how powerful the blower would have to be, but I suppose I could always get a bigger fan, vroom vroom.

To hopefully add more insight into the project, I really don't need to move the grain far. If I went with an auger to deliver grain to the tun, it would really only move grain a few inches. I could make a hopper for the crushed grain and probably mount it right next to the tun (if not above) so the auger would really just be used to slowly deliver grain to avoid dough balls. At least, that was the idea I had with the auger bits. 1" PVC pipe with an auger bit inside at the base of the hopper. As soon as the time comes, the drill starts running which pushes the grain out the end of the pipe.
Yeah I realise what I said was pretty much what you said with a few words exchanged :D
I think you have the biggest problem in mind about slowly adding the grain to avoid finding dough balls when you do eventually wake up. Also look at the Steel’s / Steele’s Mashers – basically it is a auger to push the grain into the mashing portion which has arms which mix up the grain and water and eventually dropping it into the tun.

I am looking forward to watching this thread evolve!
 
I think my first attempt at solving this will be the trap-door approach:

I'm going to use a 5 gallon water jug as the hopper and use hole saw to cut a brace out of some 2x6s and mount that to a board. Kinda like this one: http://wardiesworld.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/photo118.jpg but without the mill underneath.

Underneath I'll have a hinge and a couple solenoids kinda like this: https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net...9_10204016769922020_1770722857923696515_n.jpg to hold the grain until the time is right. Once the grain-in step is reached, voltage will be applied to the solenoids and retract the pins holding the trap door in place.

This will be placed directly above the return port on the tun which should have hot water blasting through to wet the grain as it falls.

My main concern with this method will be flow rate. If grain falls too quickly and I'm concerned with dough balls, I can try to make flow restriction plates like the first image I linked. Alternatively I could put a sort of fan blade underneath to make sure the grain and water get all splashy together. Ooorrr I can mount an electric motor with paint stirrer in the mix somewhere. Hah.
 
It may sound a bit crazy but why not try just putting your grain in the mash tun dry and adding the hot water automatically in the morning. I have never seen a dough ball on a home brew scale. In my not yet automatred system, i mill my grain into my mash tun while heating my strike water, then add water to my grain. If you are worried you could add some kind of stirer which could be automated.
Just an idea
 
Here is the mash tun with stirring motor and paddles https://picasaweb.google.com/110297595278760536729/WetTestProgressPhotoS?noredirect=1#5225298861192897346. Motor is a 60 rpm gear motor with a 1/2" shaft coupled to 1/2" SS tubing with a swagelok tube union. This works if water is added first then the grist is added while water is moving, if not done in that order then it will lock up the paddles.
The kiss method used with the older system is 3/8" SS tubing bent to form a "J" on the end and chucked up in a cordless drill to stir in the grain. It makes no difference what order the grain and water come together as the surface area of the tubing is low enough to limit torque needed while mixing.
 
LordUlrich - Thanks for the input! I considered this at design time when I put together the system. This is a totally viable way to go! In order to accurately carry out this step I would need to know how much water has transferred to the mash tun. Many automated systems have volume measurement but at this point I do not. In fact, I don't even have automated valves yet :\

I suppose I could do this in a roundabout way by configuring the system to run the HLT output to the MLT for a certain amount of time (measure how long it takes to transfer 5 gallons for instance) I could do it this way. Once mashing begins, however, the MLT would need to recirculate so I would need a passive T in the line in order for both HLT and MLT outputs to get back to the MLT.

TLDR on this idea - I love it but would need a few more pieces of automation to make it work correctly. I'll keep it slated for the future :)

Klaude, thanks again for sharing. That looks awesome! I also ran through the other pictures on your gallery. Love the sparge ring!
 
Made some (quick) progress last night. I went out and bought a water jug - $17 at safeway. what a rip. That was more than the two solenoids with overnight shipping!

Since this is in the proof of concept stage I just used some scraps to mock it up. I grabbed 3 sections of 2x6 and a 16x16" section of plywood and used a hole saw to cut a hole through the center of each. This will act as a collar for my jug. I used the leftover section (what was left in the bit) as the trap door. I attached a hinge to it and threw it all together:

Here's a closeup through the collar from the top:

http://s29.postimg.org/7wg7ls69j/100_MEDIA_IMAG03911.jpg

Here's a shot of the mockup put together:

http://s3.postimg.org/pjc7e12ir/100_MEDIA_IMAG04001.jpg

Notice the keezer - still a work in progress, hah.
 
Made some (quick) progress last night. I went out and bought a water jug - $17 at safeway. what a rip. That was more than the two solenoids with overnight shipping!

Since this is in the proof of concept stage I just used some scraps to mock it up. I grabbed 3 sections of 2x6 and a 16x16" section of plywood and used a hole saw to cut a hole through the center of each. This will act as a collar for my jug. I used the leftover section (what was left in the bit) as the trap door. I attached a hinge to it and threw it all together:

Here's a closeup through the collar from the top:

http://s29.postimg.org/7wg7ls69j/100_MEDIA_IMAG03911.jpg

Here's a shot of the mockup put together:

http://s3.postimg.org/pjc7e12ir/100_MEDIA_IMAG04001.jpg

Notice the keezer - still a work in progress, hah.

Without vibrating the water jug a lot of grain will stay behind.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Hmm, bummer. If a lot is left maybe I'll make my own hopper. I should be able to test it out tonight.
 
A motor with stirring paddles would create enough vibration to drop in all but the last few grains.

I like the idea with the blower motor and horizontal PVC pipe. No solenoids, just a timer on the blower. It is easy to experiment with and tune before committing grain to water. My concern would be that the initial grain resting in the pipe would block the flow entirely - hair dryers have weak blowers. You might prevent this with a horizontal blade in the horizontal pipe just at the grain drop. It would permit fee flow of air beneath the blade until the grain started moving.
 
I feel like I really want to try the blower idea - at least for novelty. Now that the solenoids are on their way, I could combine the ideas - the pipe would be empty until the solenoids drop grain into the pipe at the same time the blower starts.
 
A motor with stirring paddles would create enough vibration to drop in all but the last few grains.
Both of my mash tuns have grain mixer and non of them create any vibration to empty my hopper.
A correct hopper cone angle will solve the problem.

I like the idea with the blower motor and horizontal PVC pipe. before My concern would be that the initial grain resting in the pipe would block the flow entirely - hair dryers have weak blowers.
You got it right.

You might prevent this with a horizontal blade in the horizontal pipe just at the grain drop. It would permit fee flow of air beneath the blade until the grain started moving.
Starting a strong blower before the grain falls may prevent a block if the run is very short.

For my automated grain processing system a vacuum system is used, 20' run.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Do you normally recirc during dough-in? There is a tendency for that to lead to a stuck situation. I let the grain soak in the MLT for 5-10 minutes before I start to recirc
 
I usually make sure the pump is primed and then dump in the entire bill. A quick stir and I'm off to the races. To be honest, I'm not too worried about dough balls - the water jug is going to dump grain significantly slower than I normally do with the bucket.

Never know, maybe I get to build a stirrer! :D
 
Brief update: The water jug hopper was a total bust for crushed grain. So much was stuck in the handle area and the semi-conical area that I just abandoned it. Maybe I'll find another use for it someday.

-Edited- I had to shake the hopper pretty vigorously to get the grain to come out - a stirrer motor wouldn't be enough to work the grain through. At least, not crushed grain.

Instead I put together this cheap little hopper out of sheet aluminum:

http://s21.postimg.org/i6lo263uf/10443513_10204054978437209_3958986725450627840_n.jpg

A 10 foot section of this aluminum stuff is enough for 2 hoppers. I haven't tested the capacity yet - will get back to that later.

The solenoids are hooked up underneath the shotty base you see in the photo. They seem fine at first glance but upon first test the little magnet on one shot out across the shed floor to the abyss. I suppose that's why I got 2? Ugh. What a bummer. If I continue on the solenoid route I'll have to build a little bracket to make sure the magnets don't shoot into the tun each time.

FWIW here's the solenoid I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AQKXEI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 - the spring is a tad too powerful for its own good.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Brief update: The water jug hopper was a total bust for crushed grain.

-Edited- I had to shake the hopper pretty vigorously to get the grain to come out - a stirrer motor wouldn't be enough to work the grain through. At least, not crushed grain.

Results as expected

Instead I put together this cheap little hopper out of sheet aluminum:

http://s21.postimg.org/i6lo263uf/10443513_10204054978437209_3958986725450627840_n.jpg
Looking great and will work.

They seem fine at first glance but upon first test the little magnet on one shot out across the shed floor to the abyss. I suppose that's why I got 2? Ugh. What a bummer. If I continue on the solenoid route I'll have to build a little bracket to make sure the magnets don't shoot into the tun each time.

The plunger will fly out if a stop is not installed. Make a L-bracket with a hole large enough for the plunger to fit through but not the C-clip.
The C-clip is your de-energized stop.

the spring is a tad too powerful for its own good.
All solenoids are like that.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
I have a bolt latch sitting around that could do the trick if I attach the solenoid rod to the end of the latch. As a backup plan, I just purchased a push-type solenoid that has a nut on the back to restrict forward travel. That should work fine with the bolt latch as well.

I'll look around the shed for some pre-made brackets, I'm pretty sure I already have something that could work. Otherwise I might be able to put something together.

Thanks again for the insights.
 
I made a small bracket out of some scrap sheet metal - looks like it will hold that C-clip just fine.

I'll post more pictures after I have a chance to test it a little more.

Thanks again for the feedback, everyone!
 
Dry testing went very well - the sheet aluminum is quite smooth and left very minimal grain in the hopper.

Here's what the bottom side of the grain hopper looks like: https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hph...8_10204084361491767_8296850562119006663_n.jpg - sorry it's so blurry.

I did my first automated preheat-strike-mash with this new addition today and I must say it is great to see it all work together (on the first try) - no dough balls or anything. The grain bed looked pretty well distributed but my return port could use some adjustment. Essentially my water was just blasting out of the port so quickly one side of the grain bed looks less ideal. More on that later.

I have a couple improvements to make:

Apparently when a solenoid de-charges, there is a bit of stored energy in the electromagnetic coil. If you follow my design add a diode to the solenoid leads ( connect the stripe to the positive side ) to protect the rest of your electronics.

Also I think I'll build a ring which will sit above the grain bed inside the tun to help spread out the water over the top of the grain bed. I used to use a hose that sat on top of the grain bed but since I'm adding grain automatically now, that idea won't work. I'm thinking about something like this: http://api.ning.com/files/riDYdV1A9...BTTyJmNISCHwOvXvDFP9Zh7SZOHJKeq/IMG_0439s.jpg (grabbed from google search)
 
Dry testing went very well - the sheet aluminum is quite smooth and left very minimal grain in the hopper.
You got a winner

Apparently when a solenoid de-charges, there is a bit of stored energy in the electromagnetic coil. If you follow my design add a diode to the solenoid leads ( connect the stripe to the positive side ) to protect the rest of your electronics.
Applies to relays too

Also I think I'll build a ring which will sit above the grain bed inside the tun to help spread out the water over the top of the grain bed. I used to use a hose that sat on top of the grain bed but since I'm adding grain automatically now, that idea won't work.
Will adding the water first work for you?
I add mash water first than the grain and use a mixer.
Keep us informed:mug:

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
I attached a diode to the solenoid and it still fires. Whee. Always nice when you change something without it breaking. I also managed cut the daylight out of my finger (how'd the daylight get in?) so I taped up the edges of the hopper in a bloody mid-sparge rage. Safety is important.

Here's how the ring came together: https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net...6_10204099086419881_6598764015699771096_n.jpg

Notice the screws instead of solder - easier to take apart this way. The larger holes are big enough for mash bits to pass easily. That's really only a problem for the first few minutes of re-circulation - they should clear pretty quick.

Actually, ClaudiusB, I do add (mash) water first. After preheating, the grain is added and re-circulation stabilizes temperatures for the duration. Previously I used a silicone hose attached to a barb inside the tun but now the hose would sink to the bottom and grain would get added on top. I took the hose off for my test batches so wort during recirc just blasts across the center of the tun and hits the other side. This isn't ideal as the grain bed was heavily impacted by the force of the liquid hitting the vessel wall and splashing down. Essentially the top of the grain bed looked like a slide. I didn't notice efficiency degradation but I probably just wanted another problem to solve. Funny how these projects turn into more projects.

I'm hoping the ring is an improvement over the old way as it will spread the wort over the top of the grain bed more evenly while recirculating. It should also reduce the amount of splashing while recirculating and when grain is added, I can have the tun recirculating as a way to make sure grain hits water relatively evenly with a hot shower.
 
Hi ClaudiusB,

No major updates but I noticed the humidity (and/or barley flour) might be a bit much for the little solenoid. I took it apart and sanded things down to reduce the buildup (rust? wet flour?) and things keep chugging along. It's mighty nice getting 2 full batches done by 9am.

I bought another (bigger, stronger) solenoid but haven't put it in since everything is going fine. I'll post again if I end up doing a redesign to move the solenoid out of steam's reach.
 
Sorry, dogs, I'll head back and see if I can upload them somewhere else. I think I may have linked directly from facebook - even though I have not removed them, maybe permissions have changed or something.

Here is the side view:
http://s7.postimg.org/rok1s7oh7/grain_hopper_side_view.jpg

And underneath:
http://s16.postimg.org/fn9fauyf9/grain_hopper_underneath.jpg

Hopper when full (14.5 pounds of grain):
http://s21.postimg.org/nc1up1qxj/full_hopper.jpg

An older (from 2013) iteration of the shed layout, viewed from the front doors:
http://s18.postimg.org/5f5r70za1/shed.jpg

I really should start another thread for the sparge ring, but here are some photos.

Side:
http://s16.postimg.org/jim04wwcl/sparge_ring_side.jpg

Top view:
http://s23.postimg.org/6i0vv1c0b/sparge_ring_top.jpg

full hopper.jpg


grain hopper side view.jpg


grain hopper underneath.jpg


shed.jpg


sparge ring side.jpg


sparge ring top.jpg
 
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