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Witbier Austin Homebrew's Belgian White Beer

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I brewed this up with Safale WB-06, flaked barley and oats combo instead of the flaked wheat and I have to say...

I don't like it. I like the actual malt, mouthfeel and what not, but I don't like the bitter orange peel. I put equal amounts of coriander and orange peel, but the orange peel completely dominates the taste right now - it's actually lending an almost lambic type sourness it's so prominent (no it's not infected, the sweet malty backbone is hiding behind the orange peel). It's been in the bottle for 3 weeks and it looks like I'll have to age it a bit to tone down the orange.

I would recommend to anyone (including the future me) to swap out the bitter orange peel for a fresh orange peel of the brewer's choice.
 
Making batch number 5 of this brew as we speak. My last batch I used T58 and everyone thought it was the best batch. This batch I am using some Harvested Wyeast from a previous batch. This is my most popular brew by far. I don't brew over the winter and plan on brewing one more batch before the snow flys. If your on edge about trying this one go for it.
 
Ok, I brew this recipe every now and then because it’s an approachable easy drinking beer and some of family and friends can’t always handle the beers I normally brew. My problem is this. When I brew the extract version it’s great but the all grain version finishes full of DMS. I saw that this was discussed earlier in this thread and I don’t want to offend anyone but I can’t see how it could be caused by anything but the length of the boil. After doing my own research and multiple brews I have to think Philrose has a point. My boil off rate is right at 12% an hour so that may be why it affects me more than others. This is the only recipe that I use this much Pilsen Malt and the only one that I have this problem with. Again, I’m not attacking Forrest. I love AHS and there recipes. I just want to diagnose this problem.
 
I just did a 5 gal batch of this. I couldn't help myself but to do a 60 min boil. Fist time I've used coriander. Man, them things smell good when you crush em.
 
Damn good beer. I just opened one early after carbing for...3 days, and it was delicious. Gonna be hard to wait a full 3 weeks for these things to be ready. I will be brewing 20 gallons more as soon as my grain comes in. Thanks AHS for sharing the recipe!
 
I bottled this 6 days ago and had to try it. One of the best Wit's I've ever had. Damn proud of it and thinking of entering it in the next competition I can find once it's ready.

The only deviation from the original recipe was that I added some zest from approximately 1/4 of a lemon to the boil at 10 min and fermented with Wyeast 3944.
 
This is the one I made its warm bottle aging now

13.30 lbs Belgian Pils info
0.22 lbs Oats Flaked info
0.31 lbs Wheat Flaked info
1.2 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker (Pellets, 4.5 %AA) boiled 60 min. info
1.10 oz. Orange Peel (dried) (last 5 minutes-sweet peel) (not included in calculations)
1.10 oz. Corriander crushed (last 5 minutes) (not included in calculations)
Yeast : WLP400
 
I'm wondering what's the differance between Belgian pilsner 2 row and plain old 2 row? Can plain old 2 row be subbed?
 
Second batch brewed, very happy with this recipe. Changes made are as follows: Added .25 oatmeal oats, changed to .25 sweet orange, and .25 fresh orange peals.
 
Just trying to understand, because I am new to brewing with Pilsner malt.

Everything I've read before this thread says to boil Pilsner malts for 90 minutes to drive off DMS. For this brew, 30 minutes is the correct amount.

Does this recipe generate less DMS than one would expect, or is DMS part of the desired flavor profile for this beer?

Or is something else going one that I'm not picking up on?
 
All I can tell you is that I've brewed this at least 6 times all grain and twice as partial mash. Each time delicious.

Forrest (the owner of AHS) said he consulted with Pierre Celis on this recipe. It has won awards, etc.

I have heard the same concerns about pilsner and DMS. I don't doubt it.

However, I encourage you to brew the recipe as written and judge for yourself.

Cheers
 
U do a 60 min boil just start added hops at 30mins. A total of a 30min boil would not be enough to drive off the dms. I still think it is a 60 min boil just written to add the hops when you get to 30mins. That's my take on it.
 
I just brewed this up today (chilling as we speak) I ended up with about 1/2 gal too much wort so I ended up with something closer to a 90 min boil but followed the hops schedule starting with 30 min left in the boil the temp corrected gravity was 1.047 with about 5.25 gal of wort. I will be using the WPL0400 yeast and I made a 1l starter with my newly homebuilt stir plate , I will post how the beer came out with the extended boil in a few weeks.
 
I just got this AG kit in today along with their Blue Moon clone (my buddy bought that one). We are going to brew this the same day and see which one we like more.

I'm going to follow the directions exactly.

Those that have made it a few times and have said it was excellent, how long did you boil it for?
 
h22lude said:
I just got this AG kit in today along with their Blue Moon clone (my buddy bought that one). We are going to brew this the same day and see which one we like more.

I'm going to follow the directions exactly.

Those that have made it a few times and have said it was excellent, how long did you boil it for?

I've made this all grain kit about 4 times, the partial mash kit at least two more. My sweetheart loves witbier and I rotate through 3-4 recipes to avoid monotony within the style.

I strongly suggest you follow the recipe to the letter the first time you make it. Boil it the prescribed 30 minutes. Forrest consulted Pierre Celis on this recipe.

After making it at least 6 times before
(with delicious results), I just made my first modification when I brewed it two weeks ago: I added .5 pound of oats and added a rest at 133 to get a better adjunct mash. I really enjoy the silky effect oats provide and wanted to try this technique out after reading about it in Gordon Strong's book.

I'm carbing it up, so I'll have to wait a week or so before I can evaluate it.

You will enjoy the beer EXACTLY as prescribed in the instructions. Even with my small change I stuck to the 30 minute boil.

Cheers
 
kcpup said:
I've made this all grain kit about 4 times, the partial mash kit at least two more. My sweetheart loves witbier and I rotate through 3-4 recipes to avoid monotony within the style.

I strongly suggest you follow the recipe to the letter the first time you make it. Boil it the prescribed 30 minutes. Forrest consulted Pierre Celis on this recipe.

After making it at least 6 times before
(with delicious results), I just made my first modification when I brewed it two weeks ago: I added .5 pound of oats and added a rest at 133 to get a better adjunct mash. I really enjoy the silky effect oats provide and wanted to try this technique out after reading about it in Gordon Strong's book.

I'm carbing it up, so I'll have to wait a week or so before I can evaluate it.

You will enjoy the beer EXACTLY as prescribed in the instructions. Even with my small change I stuck to the 30 minute boil.

Cheers

That's is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you. I'm going to follow the recipe to the T.

Out of all the batches you have done, what yeast do you like the best?
 
h22lude said:
That's is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you. I'm going to follow the recipe to the T.

Out of all the batches you have done, what yeast do you like the best?

WLP400, without a doubt (or the Wyeastlab analog). The wit strain is the classic and it works well. Occasionally you need to swirl the carboy to rouse the yeast to get full attenuation. Make a starter.

I also enjoy Wyeastlab's private collection Belgian/Canadian. It's the Unibroue yeast. That is not available now. When it does come out try it in any Belgian style. Very flexible and tasty.

Cheers
 
kcpup said:
WLP400, without a doubt (or the Wyeastlab analog). The wit strain is the classic and it works well. Occasionally you need to swirl the carboy to rouse the yeast to get full attenuation. Make a starter.

I also enjoy Wyeastlab's private collection Belgian/Canadian. It's the Unibroue yeast. That is not available now. When it does come out try it in any Belgian style. Very flexible and tasty.

Cheers

Great thanks. I will give 400 a try.

Did you ferment this in the higher 60s to get rid if the sulfur smell (that I've read about) or did you ferment in the low 60s and kept it in primary a little longer?
 
h22lude said:
Great thanks. I will give 400 a try.

Did you ferment this in the higher 60s to get rid if the sulfur smell (that I've read about) or did you ferment in the low 60s and kept it in primary a little longer?

According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
 
According to White Labs, WLP400 functions best from 67-74.

I keep the temp definitely below 70 during the ramp up and rapid growth phase over the first 2-3 days. 67 works great and I target that. You might not have precise fermentation temperature control. If you don't, your biggest goal is to stay below 70 during the first phase.

After the aggressive phase slows, I let the temp run as high as it wants to, typically into the mid-70's and it's even hit 80 in the summer. This is often coincident with rousing the yeast. This temp run is to encourage full attenuation.

By using a starter and employing this fermentation strategy, I've always achieved attenuation at the high end of the range (range is 74-78, and I get 77-79%).

Finally, I only primary. I leave this beer in the carboy for typically 3 weeks and no less than 2 to ensure full attenuation and good flavor. After kegging and carbing it is ready to drink immediately.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Awesome, thank you. I typically keep my buckets in my basement which keeps the beer between 62 and 65 during the first aggressive fermentation stage. I don't yet have anything to keep my temp controlled but for now my basement will do.

I typically keep my ales in primary for 2 to 3 weeks. From reading, this yeast seems to take a little longer so I will probably keep it 3 weeks.
 
I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.
 
I'm brewing this weekend but can't get over the 30 min boil.

How does this not turn the beer into a DMS mess?

I'm contemplating being Dave and boiling 60 or 90min.

There are other ways to remove DMS other than boiling for 60 to 90 minutes. A very vigorous boil (of any length), quick cooling and vigorous fermentation all remove DMS at varying degrees.

AHS is a well known homebrew store. This kit has been selling for many years with all great reviews. Forrest has even posted in this thread that the 30 minutes is done on purpose.

You never know, maybe the secret ingredient in this successful recipe is the corn flavor from a little DMS :)
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll do a 30 I've read through all posts but didn't see much detail on this.

I think I'll just boil a little more vigorously.
 
I'm about to brew this in 30 minutes. I put the recipe in Beer Smith and it says my OG is 1.054 but the AHS instructions says 1.048. Why the 6 GU difference? Should I follow Beer Smith or the instructions?

We are also brewing the AHS Blue Moon clone and Beer Smith hit the OG exactly with the AHS instructions.
 
My boil was almost 90 minutes because I had too much wort and wanted to boil it off and the beer tastes great, the only thing I would change is I will add 20-40% more orange peel next time. That is not to say that a 30 minute boil would be bad I am just saying the beer will taste good with a 90 minute boil too.
 
I boiled mine for probably 45 minutes.

I actually went with WLP380 Hefe IV. My LHBS owner said he has brewed many Belgian Whites with a range of different White Labs yeasts and he said this one comes out very close to Allagash White with the clove and phenol aroma. Not really banana which is good.

I made a starter and fermentation took off immediately at 64 - 65. I'm trying to keep it a little under the 66 - 70 range they recommend so ester production isn't as high.
 
Here's Mine

IMAG0209.jpg
 
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