I currently have the Auber PIDs on my 50 amp panel and was wondering if any of you have switched from Auber to Electric Brew Supply PIDs or the other way around. Thanks
Auber PID vs Electric Brew Supply PID
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Why do you want to change out your PID's? And are they really Auber PID's, or are they EZ-Boils (which do the same job as a PID, but better)?
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They are real Auber PIDs. I just feel like they have so many functions and extras that we don't need. I'd like to know if the eBrew Supply PIDs are easier to adjust power to the elements for a easier rolling boil, etc. Just putting a feeler out there mainly.
Why do you want to change out your PID's? And are they really Auber PID's, or are they EZ-Boils (which do the same job as a PID, but better)?
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The Auber EZ-Boils are easiest to adjust for boil vigor - just turn the knob. They also have a function that allows full power (or a specified percentage of full power) to be applied until a temp just below boiling (user settable temp) and then automatically back off the power to your pre-selected boil power. They also don't usually need tuning to get good mash temp control without overshoot or oscillation issues.
Electric Brew Supply PID's are not going to be any easier to use than Auber PID's.
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Electric Brew Supply PID's are not going to be any easier to use than Auber PID's.
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Agree 100% that you should switch from the Auber PID to the Auber EZboil (DSPR-120 or 310)
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I bought an Electric Brewing panel and swapped out their PID for an EZ Boil before I ever used it.
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Which model would be the best? I already have probes and ssrs hooked up to my pids. The 300 model?
Depends on how many extra functions you want the controller to perform. If you are not interested in pre-programmed step mashing, programmable auxiliary relays, or external alarms vs. internal alarms, then you can go with the low end DSPR-120. The higher level systems provide additional functions, that you may or may not need or want.
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Relative noob here, in regards to electric brewing. I have a pretty simple system and don't need anything fancy. I went with the DSPR-120 and I love it. I find it reasonably intuitive to use and didn't need to adjust anything out of the box. It just works well. Only using to heat strike water and boil control, but it does a good job of bringing the water to temp and keeping where I set it. Nice to be able to just twist the knob for boil power control.
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EZBOIL is just that easy! I would never consider any other controller.
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So I have a Kal Clone 50 amp setup with some extras on it but for the most part the PIDs have a buzzer and a switch which will mute the buzzer. Other than that one controls the HLT element, another the BK element and the third just displays the mash temp probe and doesnt control any elements. I do step mash but I manually adjust temps for this so a preprogrammed controller isnt necessary. If this would be accomplished with the DSPR-120 then ill put that on my list.
Depends on how many extra functions you want the controller to perform. If you are not interested in pre-programmed step mashing, programmable auxiliary relays, or external alarms vs. internal alarms, then you can go with the low end DSPR-120. The higher level systems provide additional functions, that you may or may not need or want.
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Are the alarm buzzers and switches separate from the PID, or built into the PID? The DSPR-120 has a built in alarm buzzer, but no provision for connecting to an external buzzer. The DSPR-3x0 series can connect to external alarms, and also have internal alarms.
I would leave the MLT temp monitoring PID alone. An EZ-Boil offers no advantages over a PID for just temperature monitoring.
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I would leave the MLT temp monitoring PID alone. An EZ-Boil offers no advantages over a PID for just temperature monitoring.
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OP
OP
Yes the buzzer and switch are external. So sound like in in for 2 new 310s. Maybe a 120 just for for having the same look (damn aesthetics!). Thanks for the help guys.
Are the alarm buzzers and switches separate from the PID, or built into the PID? The DSPR-120 has a built in alarm buzzer, but no provision for connecting to an external buzzer. The DSPR-3x0 series can connect to external alarms, and also have internal alarms.
I would leave the MLT temp monitoring PID alone. An EZ-Boil offers no advantages over a PID for just temperature monitoring.
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For Mash temps, I use Auber's SYL-2352. It's just a simple temp display unit, capable of displaying temps from two RTDs. It's also slightly cheaper than the DSPR-120 and can tie into an external alarm.
I think you only need the EZBoil for the kettle. You aren't trying to adjust the boil in your HERMS/HLT, just set and maintain a temperature.
OP
OP
Just for reference: Auber's handy dandy selector chart for EZ-Boils:
The "Step Mashing" column means the unit can do automatic, pre-programmed mash steps. The 120 and 300 can be used for manual stepping (manually setting temp and time for each step, after the previous step completes.)
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The "Step Mashing" column means the unit can do automatic, pre-programmed mash steps. The 120 and 300 can be used for manual stepping (manually setting temp and time for each step, after the previous step completes.)
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yes, thanks for clarifying, the SYL-2802B is what I meant
The Auber EZ-Boils are easiest to adjust for boil vigor - just turn the knob. They also have a function that allows full power (or a specified percentage of full power) to be applied until a temp just below boiling (user settable temp) and then automatically back off the power to your pre-selected boil power. They also don't usually need tuning to get good mash temp control without overshoot or oscillation issues.
Electric Brew Supply PID's are not going to be any easier to use than Auber PID's.
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I'm in a nearby boat; thinking of changing from CraftbeerPi to hardware PID's and the EZboil caught my eye.
Does this mean that I can manually control the PWM duty cycle with the EZ boil? For example, I have enough juice to run both my elements simultaneously, but I still worry that my chiller, fridge, freezer might start up and pop the breaker. So when I'm sparging I set both BK and HLT elements to 50% just to lighten the load until I can turn the HLT off completely.
Is this also possible with the DSPR 120 and 300?
cheers
All the DSPRs will allow you to set max power output for boiling heat up acceleration mode, but only the 320 allows max power output for mash temp heat up acceleration mode. It's the latter that you would want to use on your HLT.
You shouldn't have to worry about your breaker tripping, if you have all those other loads you mentioned on separate circuits from the main breaker panel. You should never plug more than your brew control panel into the power circuit that feeds it.
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