Anyone Have Experience With this Controller for Your RIMS?

[joety]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=102

Here are the basics. I am building a single tier RIMS system with three direct fire NG kettles (BK, MLT, HLT) as well as a RIMS Tube which will have a water heater element to control the temp. Since I can direct fire the MLT to do Steps, I really only need the water heater element to maintain temps.

The controller above has the ability to avoid a relay and directly control up to 1200 watts. It also has fuzzy logic capabilities. Since my temperature probe will be at the output from the MLT, I am guessing I will have serious lag time issues as the newly heated wort enters the top of the bed. I assume the fuzzy logic will mitigate that, as well as using a lower wattage element.

Thoughts?

 

[joety]

Checking back, I think what it really comes down to, is to avoid an SSR or external contactor, can I maintain mash temps for 10 gallon batches (15 gallon MLT) using a SS RIMS tube using a heating element of 1000 watts or less?

It would be nice if I don't have to monkey with an SSR and heat sink. I am only using one PID in my setup.

Edit: I could also wire for 240v and use a 1500w element, as it allows 7a at 240 and 10a at 120. I'm just nervous if my voltage drops below 215 that could damage the PID.

 

[joety]

After reading a dozen or so more threads in their entirety, I elected to get the 4352 model instead, along with an SSR and matching heat sink. What pushed me over the edge is I could not find an ultra-low density element that only used 1000 watts. What I found in that range was generally cheap crap sold for motor homes and the like. I did find someone using a 1500w ultra low density element with a RIMS tube and I purchased one from the link. If I have trouble holding temps I can always insulate the MLT.

I still can't decide whether to put the thermometer probe in the RIMS tube or the outlet from the MLT.