Another NEIPA issue.

[Harleybrew32]

So I have brewed a total of 11 NEIPAs now.
I stopped brewing them for awhile since they kept getting oxidized in less then a month.
I ferment in a all-rounder fermenter after the second day of active fermentation I DH and dont open the fermenter again.
this time I did a double DH, One 24hrs after pitching voss kveik and the next day the second DH. put the spunding valve on keg.
I recycle Co2 like most everyone, fill keg till starsan comes out gas port and burp the PRV, then hook to the fermenter and push it to another keg.
after a week I transfer to keg using pressure gravity, all lines sanitized and purged with Co2.
beer was pale yellow, hoppy and juicy day one, day 2 not so yellow alittle more bitter. I know what is next brown bitter cardboard.
I cant figure out why it is oxidizing so fast with out any exposure to O2.
my other IPAs and double IPAs dont oxidize like these NEIPAs. could it be the recipe or the voss yeast.
my next thing to try is going to be either half of a crushed campden tablet or I think it was 3grams sodium metabisulphite in the keg.
I use 2row, golden promise, some sugar and flaked oats. I havent got into adjusting water yet in my brewing.
I heard people say drop the flaked oats and try oat malt, is that a 1 to 1 swap?
almost ready to give up on NEIPAs until I get my water tested and try to understand water
anybody got any suggestions?

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I don't dry hop during active fermentation but I understand why you are.. in any case my hazies became better when I built my oxygen free dry hopping ummm thingamabob... before that I would occasionally have oxidation problems. So even though you are hopping early I don't know if this could still be your issue... in regards to the flaked oats, yes, swap them for malted oats, make sure they are milled properly (tighter gap) I'd add some white wheat also.. other then that, for you oxygen problem... maybe look at the lines you're using for your purging setup, some hoses are more oxygen permeable then others.. try evabarrier if you're not already. It is a tough style and very rewarding when you nail it down, so don't give up. This is a hazy I brewed in January, it scored a 43 and won best in show and 2 first place ribbons at local comps in February. I brew 15 gallon batches and this is from last keg, poured a week ago, so it's on month 4 in the keg.

 

[day_trippr]

Am I following the sequence right and the beer gets racked twice?
If true, don't do that, for a start. One racking through purged hoses to a purged keg. And if you want some extra help (I do and you should) dissolve 1 teaspoon of Ascorbic Acid powder in 30ml of sanitary water and inject that into the keg just prior to filling it.

fwiw, I ferment in glass carboys and dry hop after fermentation is complete and the beer has been soft crashed to 50°F for two days. Two days of dry hopping then a hard crash for 2 days then rack to fermentation-gas-purged kegs with the AA solution injected.

I routinely have hazies on tap, "hazy bright" and delicious, for 5 months or more. It's by far my favorite style - I have 3 on tap at all times - so it's important they stay awesome to the end...

Cheers!

[edit] For the sake of completeness in case any of this matters: as soon as fermentation has slowed to where CO2 production is minimal (ie: the bubbler end of my two keg daisy-chain gives a little burp maybe once in 30 seconds or so) I disconnect and seal the two kegs with a little extra CO2, then connect very low pressure (0.4 psi) CO2 to the two fermentors. That remains hooked up for the soft-crash, dry hop, and hard-crash phases, before the CO2-pushed transfer to kegs.

 

[doug293cz]

I don't think it's the Voss. I have only done one hazy, and it was with Voss. It has held up well for a couple of months so far. Kveik yeasts can often be pretty much done fermenting in 2 days, so you may not have had enough yeast activity to scavenge the O2 adequately after your second dry hop.

Brew on

 

[matt_m]

Can someone explain the flaked oats vs malted oats?

 

[day_trippr]

I use malted oats in my hazies - when I can get them without friggin' weevils (ugh) - otherwise I'll use flaked oats instead. I have never noticed any difference, whether in character or life span

Cheers!

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Can someone explain the flaked oats vs malted oats?

Flaked oats have longer (heavier) protein chains, long story short, because of this they will drop out of suspension leaving you with a "less hazy" final product.. obviously there's more scientific explanation but that's the general idea.

 

[Harleybrew32]

Am I following the sequence right and the beer gets racked twice?
If true, don't do that, for a start. One racking through purged hoses to a purged keg. And if you want some extra help (I do and you should) dissolve 1 teaspoon of Ascorbic Acid powder in 30ml of sanitary water and inject that into the keg just prior to filling it.

fwiw, I ferment in glass carboys and dry hop after fermentation is complete and the beer has been soft crashed to 50°F for two days. Two days of dry hopping then a hard crash for 2 days then rack to fermentation-gas-purged kegs with the AA solution injected.

I routinely have hazies on tap, "hazy bright" and delicious, for 5 months or more. It's by far my favorite style - I have 3 on tap at all times - so it's important they stay awesome to the end...

Cheers!

[edit] For the sake of completeness in case any of this matters: as soon as fermentation has slowed to where CO2 production is minimal (ie: the bubbler end of my two keg daisy-chain gives a little burp maybe once in 30 seconds or so) I disconnect and seal the two kegs with a little extra CO2, then connect very low pressure (0.4 psi) CO2 to the two fermentors. That remains hooked up for the soft-crash, dry hop, and hard-crash phases, before the CO2-pushed transfer to kegs.

I only rack from the allrounder to my keg with sanitized and purged lines.
i push starsan from 1 keg to keg 2 using fermentation Co2, then spund it to 12psi.
I will have to try the Ascorbic acid method.
thanks

 

[Harleybrew32]

They are my favorites too, but so sensitive
Last one I brewed, I used Amarillo, Citra and El Dorado.
Was thinking of maybe trying the fermzilla top with the 2in TC fitting and a Hopbong.
Only problem is it wont fit in my chamber.
Would love a conical, maybe a X3 jacketed one and make a chiller out of an old AC unit and make a Hopbong for it for dry hopping. but its so freakin expensive.
I will have to look at the recipe section and see if there is a NEIPA i can brew with ingredients I have on hand.

Cheers

 

[matt_m]

I dumped a ton of hazy over a couple years trying to get a batch that was drinkable, then that would last. I added a dry hopper, purge starsan from one keg to another, purge my lines, etc, etc etc. and finally added Potassium Metabisulfite more recently and have managed to finish almost all my 2 most recent kegs. If the flaked oats think is about clarity, I haven't had that problem. Mine consistently looks like OJ til it starts turning brown and gets dumped.

 

[Indian_villager]

I've had a decent improvement lately using the hop bong with the all rounder. When I load the hop bong I also add some ascorbic acid to scavenge some o2. Few key things about the HB, on the CO2 in carbonation cap, I have a bit of tubing that extends the point where CO2 comes in down past the bottom TC face such that the CO2 is coming out just at the butterfly blade. I will then open the relief valve on the HB cap and do a slow continuous sweep for about a minute. Then pressurize the HB and dose into the fermenter. Also while kegging I make a solution of about 3g of ascorbic acid and enough kmeta to get the whole volume of beer to 20ppm metabisulfite by weight and inject that into a purged keg using a syringe and a gas disconnect before racking the beer on top. These improvements have helped me get my hazies stable for a lot longer.