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Another BrewSteel: BadAss Brewstands

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I forgot to mention if there is anything that you want to see that I havn't posted, let me know. I'm sure I have a picture somewhere along the build phase of things... :rockin:

I noticed the dual in-line plate chillers. Why 2 of them?
 
2 plate chillers:
Cold water is introduced into each chiller independently (in parallel), the wort travels from one chiller to the other (in series) and directly to the fermenter. It's fast and efficient.
 
That's...well.....Bad Ass!!

So...not counting what the setup cost...how much is shipping from CA to PA?:eek:

I'm in the early planning process of a stand. Every time I see pics like these I think I should drop it and call Brewsteel!

I couldn't tell you what the actual shipping cost is... I didn't recieve it yet... Soon enough... I asked Kurt to hang onto it for a week or two as I'm not going to be able to recieve it due to a commitment out of state... :drunk:
 
OneHoppyGuy said:
2 plate chillers:
Cold water is introduced into each chiller independently (in parallel), the wort travels from one chiller to the other (in series) and directly to the fermenter. It's fast and efficient.

So you split your cold water source to both chillers and run the wort from one to the other?

-=Jason=-
Sent from my HTC using Home Brew Talk
 
Jason - That's correct, we run the cold water up to the chiller and then a tee before the actual plumbing into the chiller. The wort is running from the BK through a BrewersHardware Trub filter, through the pump then to the chiller and out the the fermenter.

Deric and Rich - the actual shipping cost is $535. However, this cost includes three kettles and other equipment, the cost of packaging and crating (by a freight line). I'm not about to risk sending that much labor via UPS.
 
Not a good idea using the gray "Air Hose" material for LP in hot areas, true LP hose is black and will have the letters "CGA" embedded or printed on the cover, and is rated 350 PSI not 300 like air hose. While both products are hoses there is a big difference in materials used and construction for fuel gas hose material. Where your hoses are run you would be better off with the metallic flex lines that wont soften or burn from radiant heat from operating burner.

Kladue, I thought the metallic flex lines were used for low pressure propane only ? I don't see any Honeywell controllers on this system so assume it is all high pressure propane

(great build by the way, upset I found it so late into my build!)
 
So I just wanted to post a quick update here since a few have asked me where things stand. I was unfortunetly in and out of the country for quite a period of time on business which delayed the shipping since I wasn't here to recieve. The stand did come in about three weeks ago in a well packaged container.

That being said, I havn't fluid tested or gas tested the system as of yet but, did run into a few problems with the shipping. (which Kurt has helped to resolve at his point) First, two of the wheels were bend sideways, which in-turn ripped the welds right off of one of the wheels which makes the stand want to tip over. So unfortunetly, I have to take off a little bit from the bottom of each leg to put new 2x2 wheel inserts into the stand. It really crushed my heart just a bit. I havn't gotten to it but, the box with the parts to do so arrived two days ago from Kurt. There really wasn't/isn't another solution it would appear unless I had the welding tools/cutting gear to reattach the leg. Kurt let me know the inserts could hold up to 1200 lbs a piece I believe it was so I feel comfortable going that route... Cutting the 304 stainless could be a bit tricky but, I'll update once I get to that point...

I believe that damage and the damage to the ignitor which I'll get to in a minute was likely due to the shipping company stacking on top of my pallet. I think the pots, pumps, etc with some additional weight on top must have been too much for her to handle as far as the wheels are concerned....

The ignitor cap broke off, it can be glued on temporarily or held in place to ignite two of the burners that arn't on the Honeywell controller... So no worries there, and they are dirt cheap from what I've found on the net for an electronic ignitor that runs off a battery....

There were of course some loose fittings, what have you, that I expected to happen in the mail with so many buttons, gizmo's and gadgets... I'm going to have to give her a good polish too....

Pictures to come of course once I have all the other items sorted out!

Keep brewing! :rockin:
 
It's a hell of a lot cheaper to fix it myself than send it the whole way back across the country for repairs. Kurt has provided the parts in short order. I really have no complaints at the moment... He can't control what the shipping company did...

As I understand it, he's changed to the inserts on all his future stands. I'll be a bit upset if there are fluid or gas leak issues. I don't have the tools to take care of those sorts of things... Haha
 
Understood...

But none of that burden should fall on you, the customer, especially after spending that much coin. Surely it was insured and the shipping company will need to pay hefty claim, which should be relayed to you in some way. The fact that you'd have to go out and buy a replacement igniter cap or whatever on your own, no matter how cheap, is pretty ridiculous IMHO.
 
Im almost doen with my new system and im amazed at how close my system is to yours, minus the SS stand. I can't wait to use mine and I'm really interested to hear how yours works as well. Ill eventually post something showing the build and design.
 
im almost doen with my new system and im amazed at how close my system is to yours, minus the ss stand. I can't wait to use mine and i'm really interested to hear how yours works as well. Ill eventually post something showing the build and design.

photos photos photos
 
No pictures until I finish, it has changed a few times so I don't want to show it off just yet. It has 3 keggles with custom sight glass / Jaybird false bottom / cam locks / whirlpool fittings, bcs460, netgear wireless adapter, keg cowboy plate chiller, (2) march 809 pumps but may add a third, needle valves for all of the burners, (2) BG14, (1)BG10 for the Direct Fire RIMS, EBay valves, silicone hoses, Honeywell pilot lights. The frame has the control panel running the length of the frame with everything mounted in it; the switches, needle valves, BCS and all other electronics. My only concern right now is if the heat from the BG14 will make the control panel too hot for the electronics. I'm going to try and test fire it and get some readings and see if I need to relocate the BCS, relays, and netgear adapter. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Putting a thin plate behind the face panel will help dissipate heat as well as burner shrouds. Also, by providing a rear exit for your flame heat wash to reduce front heat build up. Kettles are much better at directing heat in the direction you want. With their convex bottom, keggles spread the flame in all directions decreasing your ability to control heat wash.
 
I threatened to give his stand away if he divulged the cost... :cross:

This system includes a stainless RIMS tube and trub filter from Brewers Hardware, a BCS 460 controller, hard plumbing, automated burner, 2 stage chiller, kettles...
around $5000 with far more features than you will find anywhere (manufacturers) at any price.

Wait until you see all the kettles, RIMS and stuff

Here's a teaser
P1030879.jpg

Contact us and tell us what we can build for you

No one guessed at the price paid, the vendor himself confirmed the cost in this very thread (and then $500+ later for shipping).

If the buyer is happy with what he got then so be it, however i think it's extremely shady to just sweep the experience under the rug.
 
Trying again....

Seems like the post here trashing Kurt is Deja-Va when a certain TX stand builder was trashing him. Now a different name but same thing....
 
Trying again....

Seems like the post here trashing Kurt is Deja-Va when a certain TX stand builder was trashing him. Now a different name but same thing....

Huh? Who is being trashed? Not sure if you are referring to me, but my earlier post was more about being surprised that you'd invest that much and then have to be responsible for damages on your own, but the OP is fine with it, so be it.

Sorry for the hijack, I'm out. :off:
 
Sorry Mark
Wasn't you who was bashing Kurt. His earlier post were deleted along with mine.....

Again sorry if you thought I was referring to you.

Brew on....
 
How does an awesome build thread by horric29 and OneHopGuy turn into a crap discussion on who's responsible for some damage that neither party had any control over? Thank goodness OneHopGuy and horric29 are consummate professionals and haven't gotten involved in this madness! Us fellow HBT members should be thankful for their openness and time taken to share with us their project. Let the two parties involved work out the issues if there are any, and the rest of us can sit back, relax, have a home brew and watch the build and brewing continue;)!!!!!!
 
I swear this whole thing is going to lead to my exit from brewing... I just finished converting to electric today... Hooked up my water and the plumbing that Kurt had in place leaks like there is no tommorow... I pull all that apart, re solder, and then water test... The damn kettles he sold me at several hundred dollars a piece leak... I have no idea what to do... It's been a year of nothing working out...

Would silver solder work on stainless steel kettles? Any ideas? :drunk:
 
I swear this whole thing is going to lead to my exit from brewing... I just finished converting to electric today... Hooked up my water and the plumbing that Kurt had in place leaks like there is no tommorow... I pull all that apart, re solder, and then water test... The damn kettles he sold me at several hundred dollars a piece leak... I have no idea what to do... It's been a year of nothing working out...

Would silver solder work on stainless steel kettles? Any ideas? :drunk:

Refund?
 
Yes, you can silver solder stainless. Others have done it with success but I'm still not sold.

We had a stint with soldering last year and it was a giant failure. They were leaking because of damage during shipping and because we've found the process to be tricky. If you plan to attempt you'll need this: Silver Solder and this Flux.
 

Yea, I wish... He has you pay via paypal and after the 45 days are gone I think your up the creek. I just opened an inquiry with my credit card because they include a 2 year warranty on all items... Not sure if this is going to qualify or not... There isn't exactly anyone to "fix" it...
 
Yes, you can silver solder stainless. Others have done it with success but I'm still not sold.

We had a stint with soldering last year and it was a giant failure. They were leaking because of damage during shipping and because we've found the process to be tricky. If you plan to attempt you'll need this: Silver Solder and this Flux.

I don't have much of an option short of finding a shop to weld it for me or buy new kettles with the attachments, faucets, thermowells, etc that I need. I don't really have a penny left to put into this. I have three 15 gallon leaky kettles now lining my shelves in my brew shed.... LOL
 
Not that you should have to do this, but it is going to be cheaper to have someone fix the welds than to replace the kettles.I don't know anyone in the area that does it though.

I feel so bad about the problems you've had with this rig. sucks.
 
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