All-Grain Automation Build Concept

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AG3

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Hello everyone! First post here!

I've been working on an all-grain system design with some level of automation in mind and I'd appreciate any input before I move onto the detailed design and start ordering components. I currently live in an apartment with limited space and a stove not worthy of larger batches, so I'm planning to go with an electric setup in a vertical configuration. The goal is to brew 5 and 10 gallon batches using only one pump, one heating element, limited number of valves, and minimal hose changes. I'd also like to maintain some level of portability and keep the smallest storage footprint possible. On to the design!

I attached an image of the flow diagram, but I believe the size was reduced which removed some detail, so here is a link to a public Dropbox image if you'd like to take a closer look: Flow Diagram

The first image is the system completely assembled. The numbers on the valves (dark gray circles) tell what type of valve each is (2-way or 3-way ball valve). I was planning to use motorized valves; however, two of the valves will probably need to made out of a standard ball valve and a servo motor to provide flow control. From what I've seen, all affordable motorized ball valves only have on/off states. The black lines are fixed stainless tubing, the white lines are silicon tubing with cam locks or tri clovers (haven't decided yet). Finally, the dashed lines represent the one hose swap that will be required. The heat exchanger is a 1/2" x 50ft stainless coil, fixed inside the lowest kettle just above the heating element and used for a HERMS system, maintaining sparge water temps, and wort chilling.

The remaining 9 images show how I expect the typical brew process to flow. I'll list a brief description of each step, but hopefully it's clear from the diagram. The red lines show the paths that have water or wort running through them.

Step 1: Bring water up to strike temperatures. Hopefully enough water for mashing and sparging, but additional water can be added to the sparge pot if necessary.

Step 2: Stack mash tun on boil kettle and connect two lines. Transfer required amount of water up to mash tun.

Step 3: Recirculate water in mash tun to bring back up to strike temperatures if they dropped and preheat the mash tun. Once temperatures are correct, add grains and begin mash process. The remaining water in the boil kettle will be used to maintain mash temperatures as a HERMS system.

Step 4: After mashing, stack sparge pot on top of mash tun. Move line from input of mash tun to input of sparge pot and make other connections shown. After mashing, transfer remaining water in boil kettle up to sparge pot.

Step 5: Drain wort into boil kettle leaving an inch or so above the top of grain bed. Once enough wort is in boil kettle, heat wort and recirculate sparge water to maintain temperatures.

Step 6a and 6b: Sparge. Adjust the two ball valves to match wort out and sparge in flow rates, maintaining an inch or so of water over the grain bed. If sparge temperatures drop, close boil kettle recirculation path and recirculate sparge water to bring back up to temp. I don't expect this to be required too often but the capability is there.

Step 7: Sparge completed.

Step 8: Remove sparge pot and mash tun. Boil.

Step 9: Chill wort. Use an outdoor hose or sink faucet adapter to push cold water through the coils for initial cooling. If necessary, after initial cooling, a cheap pump can push ice water through the coils from the mash tun pot once cleaned. The main pump continuously runs to create a whirlpool for faster cooling.

Hopefully that gives you the general idea!

A few questions I have:

1.) Do you see any issues with not being able to access any pots below the highest pot. This would be the boil kettle while mashing, and the mash tun while sparging. There may be enough room to see what's going on but it will be pretty limited.

2.) Do you see any limitations to the system? Any methods or techniques this would not allow? I'd like to keep options open to try different methods of mashing, sparging, etc.

3.) Any thoughts? Pros, cons, etc.

Thanks everyone! I'm excited to be a part of this awesome community and looking forward to your inputs! :mug:

System Flow.jpg
 
While you're planning out your electric system, make sure you have an adequate power source.
 
Thanks everyone. My original plan was to go with an all-in-one BIAB type design like the Grainfather, but it evolved quickly into something a little more. BIAB should still be simple to do if I go with the current design and I will most likely do a few BIAB brews in the kettle before the whole system is finished.

I should be okay on power. I have easy access to a 240V 30A dryer outlet and plan on using an inline GFCI extension cord.
 
Any inputs to the design as is? Interested in hearing thoughts on possible limitations of a 3-tier design with the pots stacked directly on top of each other. Also interested in thoughts on mounting the heat exchanger directly in the boil kettle and using it as a HERMS coil and wort chiller. I was planning on going with 62 or 64-qt Bayou classic pots for the boil kettle and mash tun, and a 36-qt for the sparge water storage pot. From what I've read, that should be just large enough for 10 gallon batches. I think I left those details out in the initial post.

I spent some time looking for a similar concept on here, but couldn't find anything quite like it and I figured it'd be a good idea to verify the idea with some of you more seasoned brewers to make sure I didn't overlook something.

Thanks again!
 
I wouldn't mind having a full Blichmann setup, but I'd like to keep the cost to a small fraction of what a setup like that would cost. I also enjoy the DIY aspect of this hobby and looking forward to building something. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
I agree with Brundog while cool it seems unnecessarily complicated.

Where do you see the added complexity? By controlling a few ball valves (5 total), it combines the simplicity of a gravity fed 3-tier system with the benefits of a 1-tier, 2-pump setup. Only one or two valve changes are needed for each step. Most of the other systems I've seen require two pumps, a large number of valves, and require some tube changes throughout the process.

Maybe my description and flow diagram aren't as clear as I was hoping. I will try to make a little animated image to better show some of the details.
 
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My comment was just to say BIAB is much simpler, takes up less space, and will be less costly. If you want to build a three vessel rig, go for it (personally I like 2 vessels and see no need for three or HERMS... oops... I digress). But its more space, more parts, more pots to clean, more ports, pipe swapping, etc. No sparge efficiency regained with finer crushing.
 
My comment was just to say BIAB is much simpler, takes up less space, and will be less costly. If you want to build a three vessel rig, go for it (personally I like 2 vessels and see no need for three or HERMS... oops... I digress). But its more space, more parts, more pots to clean, more ports, pipe swapping, etc. No sparge efficiency regained with finer crushing.

I spent a couple hours last night reading your entire build thread and watching your demo on YouTube. Very impressive! I wish I would've found it sooner. It is actually very similar to the level of detail I am hoping to put into my build and around the same level of automation. I just want to go vertical to make use of gravity to eliminate the need for a second pump. I think using gravity to sparge may provide better control of the flow rates as well. I tried to keep my initial post simple just to get thoughts on the layout and general idea minus any control and automation details, but I think it was interpreted by most that I am looking for a simple, low cost method of brewing when I'm really looking forward to building, writing code, and tuning a complex control system with a bunch of sensors and all over the place.

I agree on the two vessel approach; however, I will still need some way of storing the sparge water, whether it's heated on the fly or preheated. Considering I will have to move the system outdoors on brew days, I don't have the option of keeping a bunch of water stored in a convenient place above the system at the moment. The solution was to just pump some preheated water from the boil kettle to another pot on top right before sparging (no heating element, just a storage pot). Additionally, I only have access to a a single 240V 30A circuit so I am limited to one 5500W heating element at a time. By using the heat exchanger in the bottom vessel, I can use it to heat the sparge water and only use one heating element for the whole system.

How do you like those Bayou Classic pots? I'm assuming they're the 62-qt versions? Are they large enough to handle a 10 gallon batch without much worry of boil overs?
 
Gotcha. Build away - it's half the fun of this hobby!

The kettles are pretty junky, but expected and adequate for under a hundo shipped each. The drill easy and I had no problem soldering them, but with a side mounted valve you have to be careful torquing as the material will bend easily enough. Just be gentle and it's fine. Because of the top "lip" you need either a domed false bottom or a hinged one like Norcal's. Also you have to place the return port above or below it, but this is not really an issue.

I have not done a 10 gallon batch, only 7.5, but I imagine they will if you are really careful at the beginning of the boil. 10 gal batch will be basically 13+ gals at the start of the boil so it's tight.
 
Gotcha. Build away - it's half the fun of this hobby!

The kettles are pretty junky, but expected and adequate for under a hundo shipped each. The drill easy and I had no problem soldering them, but with a side mounted valve you have to be careful torquing as the material will bend easily enough. Just be gentle and it's fine. Because of the top "lip" you need either a domed false bottom or a hinged one like Norcal's. Also you have to place the return port above or below it, but this is not really an issue.

I have not done a 10 gallon batch, only 7.5, but I imagine they will if you are really careful at the beginning of the boil. 10 gal batch will be basically 13+ gals at the start of the boil so it's tight.

Thanks for the details. Are you able to maintain a consistent sparge flow with your chugger running through the proportional valve controlled by the flow meter feedback? I noticed you mentioned the chugger decoupling a few times. Is this still an issue?

I think I made some adjustments to the design and moved the sparge storage tank below the boil kettle. If I ever got a stuck sparge with multiple gallons of water directly above the mash kettle, it would be difficult to fix. This will require the sparge water to be pumped in vs. gravity fed, similar to your setup.
 
I was getting decoupling on the other pump, not the sparge pump. No, the sparge system has worked pretty flawlessly actually. Truth be told, the flowmeter is not really needed. It is a nice-to because once the valve position is set, it doesn't change, so a fixed setting would be fine. The AutoSparge really takes care of matching. However, because it also totals the sparge liquid, the transition from sparging with water to just MLT draining is automatic. Take out the flowmeter and that function is lost.

The decoupling came from having no restriction on the output to the whirlpool. This caused cavitation which apparantly is enough to decouple my pump. I have slightly flattened the output of my whirlpool arm, and this created a restriction and increased my whirlpool velocity, so that problem is well solved.
 
After some additional thought, I became a little concerned about fixing a stuck sparge if/when it happens. With 5 gallons or so of sparge water sitting above the MLT, it would be difficult to access. I moved the sparge water pot below the boil kettle, which elevated the boil kettle to a better height for stirring and adding ingredients. This means I have to now pump the sparge water up instead of relying on gravity.

A new flow diagram is attached with a higher quality one on Dropbox, here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3ljb2vbtok7cbq/System%20Flow%20v2.png?dl=0. I eliminated the whirlpool arm on the boil kettle, which will now be replaced with a slow mechanical stirrer (not shown in the diagram). I was able to replace one of the 3-way valves with a 2-way. Tubing swaps were also eliminated. Flow regulating valves are shown in gold, black valves will be opened completely. The heating element is also now shown as the little red squiggly line in the boil kettle.

Here is a brief description of each step in the flow diagram:

Step 1: Bring water up to strike temperatures.

Step 2: Stack mash tun on boil kettle and transfer required amount of water up to mash tun.

Step 3: Recirculate water in mash tun to bring back up to strike temperatures.

Step 4: Add grains. Wort will be recirculated through heat exchanger to maintain proper temps.

Step 5: Heat remaining water in boil kettle above sparge temperatures and drain into storage pot.

Step 6: Drain wort into boil kettle leaving an inch or so above the top of grain bed.

Step 7: Sparge. Water will run through heat exchanger and splitter. Water at regulated flowrates with be directed to the MLT, and the remaining water will recirculate back into sparge pot to maintain temps.

Step 8: Sparge completed.

Step 9: Remove mash tun and boil.

Step 10: Chill wort.


As with the previous design, comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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System Flow v2.jpg
 
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