Aeration pre boil?

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Toppers

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I will be heating my strike and sparge water inside, as well as my mash in a cooler. The boil will take place outside on a burner.

Do most people just drain into a bucket/pot, and pour straight into the brew kettle? Or is avoiding aeration so important pre-boil that I should find a way to drain straight into the brew pot?

Thanks
 
I have always drained my wort into the kettle, for that reason... if you are draining your wort into a bucket, why cant you just drain it into your kettle?
 
I have always drained my wort into the kettle, for that reason... if you are draining your wort into a bucket, why cant you just drain it into your kettle?

The kettle will be outside on a burner. The mash tun is inside (its 35f outside). It's just easier to mash/sparge/vorlauf indoors for me. I'd rather not carry around a loaded mash tun, and I certainly don't want to be carrying a red hot kettle in and out each time I drain the runnings.
 
Sorry, I thought you said that you were doing everything inside, and only boiling outside. If that is what you are doing, what is the difference between carrying a bucket of hot running outside to the kettle, or carrying the kettle with hot runnings in it, outside? Do you have a garage where you could do all of this easily?
And why would your kettle be red hot? Why not drain your warm runnings into it, carry it to the burner, boil, and be finished?
 
I am doing everything inside, and only boiling outside. I'm doing a two batch sparge (no mash out) so the first runnings are going to the burner asap. I don't want to carry a 10 gal stainless pot hot off the burner back and forth for the 2nd and 3rd runnings after I sparge, is what I'm trying to get at. By the 3rd one it's going to be heavy (and hot) as hell.

I will just drain them into a cool pot, and transfer pour that to the kttle I suppose. Make sense?

I was wondering if the aeration from pouring my runnings from a pot, into the kettle, would be a problem.
 
Generally boiling will de-oxygenate your wort, so I think you will be ok. Dont though pour it from say 2' above the level of the wort already in the kettle. Do it as gently as poissible, any O2 issues should be resolved by boiling the wort.
 
I'm not sure. The entire argument in the BYO "batch vs. fly sparge" article was that batch sparging exposed the mash to too much oxygen. I didn't see references to anything scientific that would explain what's happening chemically but I have some empirical evidence that it might have some effect. I used to collect runnings and dump them into the kettle vigorously but I immediately noticed an improvement in my beers when I stopped that practice and started using a pump. Of course, probably another 10 small changes were made along with that so it could have been something else.


How about collecting in your bottling bucket and using the spigot and a short piece of hose to drain into the kettle more gently?
 
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