Aerating wort with aquarium pump from Walmart

[Superstorm]

I really need some help figuring out a solution to aerate my wort because brew day is tomorrow, and it has to be tomorrow because I’m brewing a pumpkin ale for Thanksgiving and it won’t be done in time if I wait any longer. I’ve never aerated a wort before, but I feel like I should now that I’ve read about all the benefits of doing it. So I went into my local home brew store today, and the guy working there said that I can just buy an aquarium pump and air stone at Walmart and use that. But I’m not so sure that’s a good idea because I’ve read that using a pump not meant for brewing isn’t that good of an idea because pumps meant for brewing contain a HEPA filter to prevent any airborne bacteria from getting into your wort and a pump from Walmart doesn’t have that, so you’re taking a risk by using one. I can’t order anything that’s only available online because I need to brew tomorrow and can’t wait for anything to be shipped. I’ve heard that a paint stir attachment for a power drill that has been sanitized first can work, or there’s also the shake method. Are those my best options?

 

[IslandLizard]

What kind of fermenter are you using?

First make sure the wort is cool, no higher than ~75F, cooler (~68F) is better.
You could pour back and forth between 2 buckets or your kettle and a bucket. Pour from a foot (or 2) height to create a lot of splashing and foam and thus aeration.

• What yeast are you using?
• How big is the batch?
• What's the intended gravity after the boil?

Although modern day dry yeast doesn't need to be re-hydrated or aerated, according to current instructions, I'm not convinced and doubt it would do any harm if you do. It may even help, who knows.

If you're kegging you will be able to drink it by Thanksgiving. If bottling, it's doubtful, may not be fully carbonated by then. Under optimal circumstances fermentation will take a week, likely longer, especially with higher gravity.

What's the recipe?

 

[burntchef]

I move my wort manually from the boil kettle to the fermenter using a ss bucket. Aeration is built into my process, not a additional step.
Eric

 

[ericbw]

Your brew store should have an in line air filter. It will go in the line between the pump and the stone.

If you stir or shake or pour back and forth, that air is not filtered. The only different contamination would be bacteria inside the pump or tube. So the filter will catch that. Sanitize the tube and stone. .

 

[Jag75]

I use a big spoon and stir in different directions. Never used anything else to oxygenate wort.

 

[IslandLizard]

I use a big spoon and stir in different directions. Never used anything else to oxygenate wort.

So did I in the beginning years, then used a whisk, sometimes poured back and forth 2x between buckets. But visible fermentation always took at least a day or 2 and usually longer, especially with dry yeast (always rehydrated).

Fast forward to last week.
Poured a large active yeast starter into chilled and well oxygenated wort, using pure O2. Had lift off within 3-4 hours. That was at 70F. I kept it exactly at that. Steady bubbles, no blow off, no surprises. That 5 gallon batch (1.058) was done fermenting 46 hours after pitching. I had raised the temp 4 degrees for the last 6 hours to finish her out. Cold crashed for 12 hours, kegged, force carbonated, and served 2 hours later and delicious! 3-Day Hazy IPA.

Quick, excellent beer is very possible when everything lines up. Look at commercial craft breweries.

P.S. I did not include the 4 days it took prior to that, making a starter (3 days) and crashing it (1 day). I brought it "up to speed" on brew day with 1 liter of 1.040 boiled and chilled, then oxygenated 2nd runnings of that very same brew, put on a shaker.