Adding ball valve to brew pot, questions

[TravelingLight]

So I want to add a ball valve to my 10 gallon pot. But I'm getting confused between bulkheads and ball valves. Tell me if I have this right...

The bulkhead is the piece that goes through the hole I drill in the pot, i.e., with just a bulkhead and no ball valve, it would essentially just be a hole in the side of my pot, correct?

Ergo, to have a valve, I need to drill the hole (step bits and all that), install the bulkhead, and then connect the ball valve to the bulkhead, correct?

Finally, what about dip tubes? I understand how they work and why (I think?). Would you absolutely recommend it? I'd rather go ahead and do it all at once rather than wanted to install a dip tube down the road.

 

[jddevinn]

Bulkhead goes threw the pot and the valve goes on the bulkhead. You need the dip tube to pick up anything below the valve connection and not have dead space.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/diptubewl58.htm

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/3pbv.htm

 

[TravelingLight]

Bulkhead goes threw the pot and the valve goes on the bulkhead. You need the dip tube to pick up anything below the valve connection and not have dead space.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/diptubewl58.htm

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/3pbv.htm

Perfect! Thanks. I was also looking at the two piece ball valve (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2pbv.htm). Is the only different between it and the 3 piece the ease of disassembly and cleaning?

 

[Firewalker11]

Perfect! Thanks. I was also looking at the two piece ball valve (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/2pbv.htm). Is the only different between it and the 3 piece the ease of disassembly and cleaning?

A good two piece ball valve will disassemble all the way down like a three piece will.

 

[jddevinn]

Ease of cleaning, ability to remove from hard plumed line, and easier to align correctly since the body can be rotated into (4) positions. Normally if you look you can find the 3 pieces for a couple dollars more than the two pieces. Worth the extra cost to me.

 

[TravelingLight]

Ease of cleaning, ability to remove from hard plumed line, and easier to align correctly since the body can be rotated into (4) positions. Normally if you look you can find the 3 pieces for a couple dollars more than the two pieces. Worth the extra cost to me.

Great points. Yeah, the guy at brewhardware.com has the 3 piece for only about 5 bucks more. Sounds like I'll probably go that route. I just want to get a barb insert for it to connect silicone tubing to the outflow when I transfer.

 

[jddevinn]

Great points. Yeah, the guy at brewhardware.com has the 3 piece for only about 5 bucks more. Sounds like I'll probably go that route. I just want to get a barb insert for it to connect silicone tubing to the outflow when I transfer.

For a couple bucks more than the barb you can probably go with a quick disconnect.

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
or
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1914.htm

 

[TravelingLight]

For a couple bucks more than the barb you can probably go with a quick disconnect.

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
or
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1914.htm

I don't even understand how in the hell those work. I'm gonna have to read up on them this afternoon. But what would be the difference between going that route and just keeping the barb on the valve all the time and just shoving some silicone on it when I need to drain it to the fermenter?

 

[aangel]

Note about 3-piece and 2-piece ball valves:

if you have a pipe wrench, you'll have no trouble getting ANY pipe fitting to correct orientation. Also, use the thicker yellow or orange pipe tape rather than the white stuff - when you take it apart, it won't shred and require annoying and time consuming removal like the white stuff.

 

[jddevinn]

Note about 3-piece and 2-piece ball valves:

if you have a pipe wrench, you'll have no trouble getting ANY pipe fitting to correct orientation.

Unless say you have an 'O' ring behind the fitting going through a kettle that you don't want to destroy or are screwing onto something plastic like a March pump head...

 

[aangel]

Unless say you have an 'O' ring behind the fitting going through a kettle that you don't want to destroy or are screwing onto something plastic like a March pump head...

Good caveat about plastic fittings. Though about the O-ring bulkheads: those don't have an orientation anyway: tighten to appropriate degree. Then hold the bulkhead in place with one wrench while you tighten the valve or fitting till the cows come home with the other wrench.

 

[b-boy]

I don't even understand how in the hell those work. I'm gonna have to read up on them this afternoon. But what would be the difference between going that route and just keeping the barb on the valve all the time and just shoving some silicone on it when I need to drain it to the fermenter?

I highly recommend QDs. I bought barbs and ended up replacing them with QDs.

 

[jddevinn]

I don't even understand how in the hell those work. I'm gonna have to read up on them this afternoon. But what would be the difference between going that route and just keeping the barb on the valve all the time and just shoving some silicone on it when I need to drain it to the fermenter?

Not having a hose pop off because you didn't think you needed a clamp on the barb fitting

 

[aangel]

Not having a hose pop off because you didn't think you needed a clamp on the barb fitting

Or having to pull so hard on the barb to remove the hose that, when the silicone hose rips off the barb, you send yourself flying backwards and bang your head.

Note that I did that.

Nope, like that'd ever happen.

Dammit.

 

[b-boy]

Or NOT having $40 worth of barbs sitting in a drawer, because you realized QDs are so much easier to work with.

 

[TravelingLight]

Fair points all around, gentlemen. I shall no go read up on the QDs. Hell, it'll help pass the time in the office until the bell sounds to go home!

ETA: Think I figured out what I need. Decided on the ball lock QDs. Don't know why, just did. Probably because I understood them better. Just emailed Bobby to make sure what I was getting is the right stuff and they'll all pair nicely.

 

[TravelingLight]

So I'm getting this bulkhead: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/truebulkheadelbarb.htm

My question is...how close to the bottom of the pot does the inlet need to be? I just want to make sure I drill high enough so the 90 degree elbow has room, but not so high that it leaves too much behind when I'm draining out.

 

[aangel]

So I'm getting this bulkhead: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/truebulkheadelbarb.htm

My question is...how close to the bottom of the pot does the inlet need to be? I just want to make sure I drill high enough so the 90 degree elbow has room, but not so high that it leaves too much behind when I'm draining out.

That bulkhead has a hose barb at the end; just attach some hose and you can suck all the wort out of the bottom of your pot. Or get a different bulkhead with an integrated stainless steel dip tube (it's using a compression fitting so you can rotate it to be flush against the bottom of your kettle)

 

[Bobby_M]

That bulkhead has a hose barb at the end; just attach some hose and you can suck all the wort out of the bottom of your pot. Or get a different bulkhead with an integrated stainless steel dip tube (it's using a compression fitting so you can rotate it to be flush against the bottom of your kettle)

Not exactly. Our true bulkhead with elbarb using that barb on the inside of the kettle as a diptube. The diptubes that use bent stainless tubing are overkill for a flat bottom pot.

The right side of the picture is inside the kettle. The male threads on the left go outside the kettle onto which you thread the ball valve. I highly recommend the 3pc valve. The install height should put the opening of the elbarb about 1/4" off the bottom of the pot for good flow while not leaving too much liquid behind.

For a hose connection, the cheapest is a regular barb for $4. Next would be the Camlock type F and Big C for $10.50 for the pair. The BLQD style disconnects are notably more expensive.

 

[TravelingLight]

Not exactly. Our true bulkhead with elbarb using that barb on the inside of the kettle as a diptube. The diptubes that use bent stainless tubing are overkill for a flat bottom pot.

The right side of the picture is inside the kettle. The male threads on the left go outside the kettle onto which you thread the ball valve. I highly recommend the 3pc valve. The install height should put the opening of the elbarb about 1/4" off the bottom of the pot for good flow while not leaving too much liquid behind.

For a hose connection, the cheapest is a regular barb for $4. Next would be the Camlock type F and Big C for $10.50 for the pair. The BLQD style disconnects are notably more expensive.

Thanks Bobby! I actually just emailed you about this last week and you promptly responded. I really appreciate that. I'm going to be ordering this soon!