5gal / 240V eBIAB in a toolbox - wiring critique

[tjash]

Planning a toolbox controller build for an eBIAB system. Basically pirating voltin/johnodon/others, a la PJ. Major differences include using a power switch instead of an E-stop, and an added LED for "element on" in addition to "element power". Hoping you guys can take a look and let me know if I screwed anything up. I laid everything out as close as possible to the actual physical arrangement I'm planning, so please forgive the wiring spaghetti and let me know if there's any redundancy I can eliminate!

Thanks to all those who helped out with this design - even though you may not have known you were involved (kal, PJ, voltin, johnodon, thughes, etc)!

(edit - couldn't attach the image, so here's the link)

http://flic.kr/p/dc5E4J

 

[grandequeso]

i could be wrong, but I think the power to the alarm is missing / wrong. Look at the auber diagram 5.3 from their manual. Also I think it would be a good idea to run the power for the controls thru your fuse block. You tapped off the fuse block to power the pid, you could just tap off the same spot to power the rest of your contactors, lights, ect.

 

[tjash]

i could be wrong, but I think the power to the alarm is missing / wrong. Look at the auber diagram 5.3 from their manual. Also I think it would be a good idea to run the power for the controls thru your fuse block. You tapped off the fuse block to power the pid, you could just tap off the same spot to power the rest of your contactors, lights, ect.

Grandequeso,

Thanks for the feedback! I took a look and you may be right about the alarm, but I'm unsure how to fix it. I was confusing the actual relays with the alarm parameters. There's no need to wire both points 1 and 14 to get high and low temp alarms; it can all be done through setting the output parameters. In that case, do I just need to drop the jumper from 1 to 14 and run a single wire to the alarm/buzzer? Neutral back to the terminal block? The neutral isn't shown on the Auber diagram, which confuses me.

As for the fuses in the control & indicator circuits - I was basing my decision not to fuse those on this conversation:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/unfused-14-awg-switches-leds-354516/

Sounds like you disagree? It wouldn't be that much more effort to wire through the terminal block, but if it's not necessary, I'd prefer to save the time and energy.

Thanks again for taking a look. All input is appreciated!

 

[P-J]

...
I took a look and you may be right about the alarm, but I'm unsure how to fix it. I was confusing the actual relays with the alarm parameters. There's no need to wire both points 1 and 14 to get high and low temp alarms; it can all be done through setting the output parameters. In that case, do I just need to drop the jumper from 1 to 14 and run a single wire to the alarm/buzzer? Neutral back to the terminal block? The neutral isn't shown on the Auber diagram, which confuses me.
...

There are relay contacts between 1 & 13 and 13 & 14

You need to deliver power to the alarm buzzer for it to work properly. Something like this:

 

[tjash]

PJ - thanks for chiming in - glad to have your input on this as well! I see what I did wrong from your diagram, thanks for that. I will make the changes and (hopefully) wire it correctly. In your drawing above, you would just put the switch in the hot leg, between the PID and alarm, correct?

 

[P-J]

PJ - thanks for chiming in - glad to have your input on this as well! I see what I did wrong from your diagram, thanks for that. I will make the changes and (hopefully) wire it correctly. In your drawing above, you would just put the switch in the hot leg, between the PID and alarm, correct?

You are more than welcome.

Yes. The alarm disable switch would go where you said. Place it in the line from the alarm buzzer to the input power (terminal 9 on the PID).

The switch allows you to turn the audible alarm off while you do other things. Without it you would be resetting the alarm parameters in order to silence it. Bottom line, it makes your brew day go a little easier.

Wishing you the best.

P-J

 

[grandequeso]

Fuses no fuses it doesnt really matter if its just for your controls. If you've got them set up already, why not use them. I personally use a 1.5a fuse for my controls. I just happened to have laying around, I like it for piece of mind so I don't accidently burn up all my pid if something goes wrong (like the time my control panel got left out, tropical thunderstormed on & filled up with 4" of water)