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I found this big bottle at the local Ross store for like $9 bucks! Just seems right to ferment beer in a big beer bottle! I like that big bottle of yours as well but I might have to remove that label LoL. And Google it. You just might find caps that size. You never know.
 
Bottled my first one gallon batch not quite the yield I expected (8 beers) the beer smelled and tasted pretty damn good, my concerns are as follows:
I used (at the suggestion of my LHBS) DME and water for priming and it seemed to reduce quite a bit and letting it cool almost made it too thick.
I need to do something different next time for bottling bucket, I siphoned out of fermenter into a pot that had the priming solution it then siphoned over dishwasher into the bottles it just seemed awkward.
Sanitized bottles in a large 5 gallon bucket, gonna invest in a fast rack.


Like someone said, a bottling bucket is a cheap investment that will make it easier. No siphon, just open the spigot. More stable, too.

8 bottles is decent. The absolute most you could get is 10.25, but you have trub to account for. The more compact it is, and the less you have, the more beer you get. Strain it going into the fermenter. Cold crash to make it compact a little more. I'm happy with 8. If I get 9 I'm really happy.
 
Like someone said, a bottling bucket is a cheap investment that will make it easier. No siphon, just open the spigot. More stable, too.

8 bottles is decent. The absolute most you could get is 10.25, but you have trub to account for. The more compact it is, and the less you have, the more beer you get. Strain it going into the fermenter. Cold crash to make it compact a little more. I'm happy with 8. If I get 9 I'm really happy.

I am definitely getting a bottling bucket w/spigot, makes sense regarding the yield cause there was quite a bit of sediment at the bottom, hoping to do another batch this weekend.
What is optimal temp for the bottles to carbonate in, I have them ion my garage which is unheated and it is still chilly here in CT in the mornings?
 
Been reading through the thread and did my first 1 gallon batch today. I'm definitely going to keep doing this. Less time and way less effort. I'll still make a couple 5 gallon batches over the summer but will stick to 1 gallon for some diversity and indoor brewing.
 
I found this big bottle at the local Ross store for like $9 bucks! Just seems right to ferment beer in a big beer bottle! I like that big bottle of yours as well but I might have to remove that label LoL. And Google it. You just might find caps that size. You never know.

I know what you mean about the label! :rolleyes: But, it appears to be silkscreened and fired on! I love the bottle, if not the product it advertises.

I do also have about a half-dozen 1.5L Grolsch swing-top bottles that I do plan on bottling in some time! Mine are in storage right now, but I found this pic on the interwebs:

1.5LGrolsch.jpg


Edit: I measured the top of the Bud bottle. It would need a 50mm crown cap. A standard beer bottle takes a 26mm crown cap, a champagne or Belgian beer bottle takes a 29mm crown cap. Nothing on Google... yet...

:D
 

Worst case scenario use some food grade silicon caulk around the rim on the inside of the caps to help seal it. Give it a try! And for the label try acetone and maybe some 1000 or 1500 grit sand paper. And I'm a huge collector of random cool shaped bottles
 
Long time one gallon brewer, wanted to start brewing sours. Had a barrel question. Do you guys think that a barrel like this could be used for long term aging?

http://www.barrelsonline.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=18

Let me know what you think.

@tbred
Short answer, no. I have a one gallon keg and your beer will be thoroughly oaked in 3-4 weeks. Long term storage is not an option because most will evaporate and what's left will be over oaked. If you want long term oaked experience, use glass and cubes or keg and cubes. Use the barrel for either short term secondary to oak a beer and you can season the barrel with wine or whiskey, or as an inoculation vessel for bacteria and wild yeast where you maintain a culture in the barrel.

TBH, I'd recommend not buying one.
 
I am definitely getting a bottling bucket w/spigot, makes sense regarding the yield cause there was quite a bit of true at the bottom, hoping to do another batch this weekend.
What is optimal temp for the bottles to carbonate in, I have them ion my garage which is unheated and it is still chilly here in CT in the mornings?

The ideal temperature is 70 degrees for 2-3 weeks. The colder it is, the longer it will take to get fully carbonated. At 70 degrees, you might be carbed at 1 week, but it needs a couple weeks usually. It also usually tastes better after 3-4 weeks anyway. You should probably keep them in the house while they carbonate.

Also, refrigerating for 3 days seems to help the flavor. A week if you can stand it. Don't just ice it down for an hour and drink it. It needs just a little more time.
 
I've been looking everywhere for 1 gallon kits to "cut my teeth" on and found it really hard to justify buying a kit for $14-$15 bucks and turn around and pay $7-10 to ship. I have found a couple of recipes online and ordered the ingredients for them though more beer and found out I can get enough for 2 gallons for about the same price... (On simple dme kits). Check out perrys brewer they specialize in 1 gallon all grain with everything (grains, grain bag, hops, dry yeast sanitizer, priming sugar and even caps) for 14.99 and offer free shipping on their kits. I think they have about 6 different ones. No minimum.... I just ordered a summer sassion spice that will be here tomorrow http://perrysbrewer.com

Also if you have Amazon prime you can get a few of the different Brooklyn brew shops kits for $15ish

I would love to see a recipe you used.
 
Belgian witbier
1 lb 2 row
1 lb flaked wheat
6 g hallertaur 4% aa 60 min for 14 ibu
6 grams coriander 5 min
6 g dried orange peel 5 min
6 g fresh orange zest 5 min
2 g t-58 yeast
 
@tbred
Short answer, no. I have a one gallon keg and your beer will be thoroughly oaked in 3-4 weeks. Long term storage is not an option because most will evaporate and what's left will be over oaked. If you want long term oaked experience, use glass and cubes or keg and cubes. Use the barrel for either short term secondary to oak a beer and you can season the barrel with wine or whiskey, or as an inoculation vessel for bacteria and wild yeast where you maintain a culture in the barrel.

TBH, I'd recommend not buying one.

@Weezy

Thanks for the advice. I think the first couple I will just use a carboy and oak cubes. Any advice on the amount of oak cubes to use?
 
Belgian witbier
1 lb 2 row
1 lb flaked wheat
6 g hallertaur 4% aa 60 min for 14 ibu
6 grams coriander 5 min
6 g dried orange peel 5 min
6 g fresh orange zest 5 min
2 g t-58 yeast

I'm new to all grain, so how much water are you using?
 
So I opened up my 2 first all grain batches tonight and the perle is pretty pale which is pretty cool and the NW IPA smells a little odd but ok. Not as hoppy as expected either. But I did add my dry hops tonight. A little under .25oz of perle in the perle beer and a whopping .40oz of Columbus to the NW IPA. Wish me luck on these 2 batches. I bottle in 7 days!
 
How long are you guys noticing fermentation takes? I brewed a batch this past Sunday and it's already starting to settle.
 
Really just depends on the yeast, temperature, and amount of sugar. Check the gravity and see if it's where it needs to be. I've notice it helps to pick up the fermenter and set it back down to kick up some of the yeast. Make sure you're not picking it up violently. Would hate for there to get unneeded oxygen
 
How long are you guys noticing fermentation takes? I brewed a batch this past Sunday and it's already starting to settle.
Agree that it depends. I find the fermentation is less or more exciting to watch based on the fermentables (e.g. wheat) and yeast. When I was new I would check gravity (refractometer) every 3 days. Once it stops moving, it's done. Now I usually allow for 7-10 days for primary unless it's a big beer then I'll give it 2 weeks.
 
I figured it was about the same times as bigger batches. Just wanted to check and make sure.

Thanks!
 
I am currently doing a gallon hefeweizen kit. The kit says to add HALF the yeast packet that came with it. I am wondering if I should make a starter with the whole packet and add just half?
 
For dry yeast, don't do a starter. Just pitch half the pack. If you want to rehydrate with water you can Preboil and cool to 85-90F then sprinkle half the pack into about 50-100 mL water, wait 15 mins shake it up and pitch.
 
So just finished my 2nd batch and here are my concerns/observations.
This was a one gallon kit (Brooklyn Summer ale clone) from my LHBS, all grain.
For this one I used a 3 gallon water cooler (I saw a guy on Youtube) to do my mash and it held the temp better than in the kettle on the stove but not perfect I had to add hot water twice to attempt to bring the temp up and I ended up up with a little more than a gallon after my boil. My only real concern is my yeast, the kit I picked up they just packaged the grains and hops in separate bags while I waited and for the yeast they gave me a Weyeast smack pack which activated fine but I pitched the entire pack for a one gallon batch, the instructions they included with the kit were pretty detailed and did not say anything about using only a portion so I pitched the entire packet, is that too much yeast? Oh and I have yet to take any type of a gravity reading, how does one do this for such a small batch? I do not want to have to take two samples and toss them which will reduce my yield?
 
For the gravity reading, I use a hydrometer. I just make sure the tube, hydrometer, and wine thief are sanitized and dump the sample back in. For some reason I am hesitant to purchase a refractometer...
I stick my pot in the oven during the mash on its lowest setting. It's small enough to fit if I take the grates out. In your cooler, next time put the water a bit hotter than your target and let it sit for a few minutes with the lid on. When you are ready to dough in, stir the water until it hits your target temp. After that dough in and mix well. Grab a piece of foil and rest it over the grains then put the lid on. That should help with the temps. The smaller the cooler the better.
 
I sanitize my hydrometer in starsan and put it right into the fermenter to do a reading. A guy at a LHBS suggested doing it that way.
 
I sanitize my hydrometer in starsan and put it right into the fermenter to do a reading. A guy at a LHBS suggested doing it that way.

I have heard of people doing that, I ferment in a one gallon glass bottle and am not sure I could get it out of there, maybe I should use a one gallon bucket.
 
I sanitize my hydrometer in starsan and put it right into the fermenter to do a reading. A guy at a LHBS suggested doing it that way.

I do this as well, only I tie a piece of thread to the hydrometer and lower it in and take my reading and then pull it back out. Just make sure to sanitize the string too.
 
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