JollyIsTheRoger
Well-Known Member
If I don't finish it in two weeks I get new yeast. Dry yeast is cheap enough so I don't risk it.
Nice, probably wouldn't have thought of that
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If I don't finish it in two weeks I get new yeast. Dry yeast is cheap enough so I don't risk it.
Nice, probably wouldn't have thought of that
biggdaddymatt
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Wouldnt it still leach some of the oil out of the coconut in the time it was one it?
bellmtbbq
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I keep mine for a couple months open with no problems.
cheesecake
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If I have half a pack I vacuum seal it
rawkstar320
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Should be fine! I'll brew my amarillo this week and we can swap.
divrguy
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bellmtbbq said:
I have kept dry yeast for 4 months. Once opened, I did the same. Ziplock vacuum bag and back in the fridge. If its been there a while then I just pitch up a little more but if it were maybe 6 months... i would chuck it.
biggdaddymatt
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Cool. Thanks for the response everyone. You can tell im new to this. I cant wait to try this white house honey ale. One more week in primary then 2 weeks in bottles. I need to decide if i want to bottle in 16oz swing tops or SN 12oz bottles. Any suggestions?
JollyIsTheRoger
Well-Known Member
I've read a few things about Mackeoli and always thought it would be cool to try, but I'm not really sure where I could the yeast or nuruk stuff. I'll ask around a few places and that would be a fun one.
I hadn't ever heard or read either of the non-english words in this post before tonight. I found rice yeast balls at my local Asian market though. They were labeled simply, dried yeast. I've got a quart jar in my closet that is covered with white dots, and starting to liquefy. I have high hopes, but I just put it together on Monday. So, to early to tell what it will be like.
huntingohio
Well-Known Member
makegoli is wierd i have 2 badones one ok one.they were from korean families so they were homebrewed i assum. I didnt think it terrible at all. Sake is much more involved and would make for quite a few blog posts.
If you get a chance find great divide samurai beer.. its a rice beer ive been experementing on recreating and have had no luck.. at the very least itll give ya a few posts of material
If you get a chance find great divide samurai beer.. its a rice beer ive been experementing on recreating and have had no luck.. at the very least itll give ya a few posts of material
JollyIsTheRoger
Well-Known Member
I had read about rice wine on another site where a guy was going through making it in Korea and that is what he called stuff. Yeah I'm going to look into it and see what I can find. Sounds like that would be a fun one to try
ReaderRabbit
Well-Known Member
I find the calculator at Mr Malty (find it at http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html ) helpful. If you have a food scale, it will tell you how much yeast you need (be sure to turn the tab to "dry yeast") based on how much sugar (original gravity) is in the wort.
Then again, a lot of people eyeball a half-packet and that seems to work out pretty well, so I'd say go through the trouble of measuring only if it makes you feel better.
jwalk4
Well-Known Member
Alright, all grain photo time. This was a recipe for a 3.5 Gallon Cascadian Pale Ale. I know that this is the 1 gallon thread but, I still consider this small batch brewing. Also, this is really the only thread I follow and where I get most of my advice from. So cheers to everyone on here that provided advice and inspiration along the way.
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: US-05
Yeast Starter: No
Batch Size (Gallons): 3.5
Original Gravity: 1.059
Final Gravity: 1.015
IBU: ~70
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21 @ 66F
Tasting Notes: Amazing hop aroma, flavor, and bitterness with the malt bill to back it up.
Boil Size: 4.5 Gallons
Boil Time: 60 min
Actual Brewhouse Efficiency: 78%
Strike temp :166F
Mash Temperature: 152 F
Mash Time: 60 Minutes
Yeast Starter: none
**Efficency was calculated @ 70% ***
Heating up the strike water – 3 Gallons to 163F.
Adding the water and grains to the 5 gallon mash tun.
Hit my temp bang on, 150F. I like my pale ales nice and dry, so I mash low temps.
Keeping the mash tun insulated, stirring every 20 minutes.
Set up to collect wort.
Collecting first runnings.
My colander for vorlaufing.
Adding first runnings to the boil kettle, I collected ~2 gallons. (*edit* The veil only makes it LOOK like I'm going to marry my mush tun. But actually, its a small experiment on my part since I ran into a stuck sparge on my last all grain batch. I was hopping that lining my tun with a layer of voil would make a separation between the grain and permeable SS sleeve. Thus, an inexpensive and quick alternative to altering my tun geometry without having to some surgery.)
Heating up my sparge water, 2.5 gallons to 170F.
Adding the sparge water to the grain.
Recirculating and Vorlaufing.
Boiling space.
Boiling and hot break. The hot break was pretty crazy, if you can see through the steam the foam is all the way up to 1" of the handle rivets. I have a 9 gallon pot and was boiling 4.5 gallons of wort! That's a lot of foam!
Chilling with snow. Took about 20 mins.
Into the carboy. I wound up with 3 gallons because I didn’t account for how much boil off I would get from -5C degree weather. Should be fine though, a little stronger, but will still be good.
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: US-05
Yeast Starter: No
Batch Size (Gallons): 3.5
Original Gravity: 1.059
Final Gravity: 1.015
IBU: ~70
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21 @ 66F
Tasting Notes: Amazing hop aroma, flavor, and bitterness with the malt bill to back it up.
Boil Size: 4.5 Gallons
Boil Time: 60 min
Actual Brewhouse Efficiency: 78%
Strike temp :166F
Mash Temperature: 152 F
Mash Time: 60 Minutes
Yeast Starter: none
**Efficency was calculated @ 70% ***
Heating up the strike water – 3 Gallons to 163F.
Adding the water and grains to the 5 gallon mash tun.
Hit my temp bang on, 150F. I like my pale ales nice and dry, so I mash low temps.
Keeping the mash tun insulated, stirring every 20 minutes.
Set up to collect wort.
Collecting first runnings.
My colander for vorlaufing.
Adding first runnings to the boil kettle, I collected ~2 gallons. (*edit* The veil only makes it LOOK like I'm going to marry my mush tun. But actually, its a small experiment on my part since I ran into a stuck sparge on my last all grain batch. I was hopping that lining my tun with a layer of voil would make a separation between the grain and permeable SS sleeve. Thus, an inexpensive and quick alternative to altering my tun geometry without having to some surgery.)
Heating up my sparge water, 2.5 gallons to 170F.
Adding the sparge water to the grain.
Recirculating and Vorlaufing.
Boiling space.
Boiling and hot break. The hot break was pretty crazy, if you can see through the steam the foam is all the way up to 1" of the handle rivets. I have a 9 gallon pot and was boiling 4.5 gallons of wort! That's a lot of foam!
Chilling with snow. Took about 20 mins.
Into the carboy. I wound up with 3 gallons because I didn’t account for how much boil off I would get from -5C degree weather. Should be fine though, a little stronger, but will still be good.
jwalk4
Well-Known Member
No, I don’t like topping up with water. I know that a lot of guys do; theorizing that, if the wort is boiled away with steam there is no harm in adding water, and I know not many people report much (if any) flavor changes. I just don’t like adding it because I don’t like risking infections that come from adding tap water, and I don’t want to take the time to boil and cool top-off water.
Also, I did the calculations. My beer will go from ~5.5 ABV to ~6.5 ABV with 3.5G to 3.0G, respectively. I’ll also take an IBU hit of about 5. So, not too bad.
Also, I did the calculations. My beer will go from ~5.5 ABV to ~6.5 ABV with 3.5G to 3.0G, respectively. I’ll also take an IBU hit of about 5. So, not too bad.
JollyIsTheRoger
Well-Known Member
I decided to put together a much larger batch of rice wine today. FYI: 30 cups of dry rice cooked and fluffed will completely fill a 5 gallon bucket. I guess that was all grain.
Nice, its on my list to brew now, but its a long list and I have to buy the yeast. Plenty of other stuff to do in the meantime. Got a fun some what double brew day coming up this week with a few interesting techniques. I'll post more about it after I figure out exactly what I am doing haha
bellmtbbq
Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever used Munich in an American pale/brown ale? I have a pound laying around that I need to use
Doing my first 1 gal experimental batch this week. Used the recipe converter on beersmith to make it smaller. I've only ever used yeast smack packs and the converter tells me to use Two grams of dry yeast. Two questions. Does that sound like enough? And do I just drop the dry yeast in or should I hydrate it first?
Cheers!
Cheers!
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
Everytime...LOVE Munich. In my last two brews (Pale Ale, IPA) I did 20% Munich in each. I'm a big hop head so having a stronger malt helps to create some balance. Adds a nice orange color to it as well
jwalk4
Well-Known Member
Hydrating yeast is a personal thing. Some guys say its a must, some guys report better results, others will say it doesn't matter either way. Personally, I don't hydrate and get good results.
Yes, 2 grams sounds about right for any beer that's 1.060 OG and under for a 1 Gallon batch.
BorealBrewer
Well-Known Member
How do you other 1-gallon folks deal with liquid yeast? I'd like to expand my one-gallon horizons beyond what I can do with dry yeast.
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
Specifically, I'm wondering about Wyeast smackpacks. Do you pitch the whole thing? Do you save some? If so, how?
Any info is greatly appreciated!
JollyIsTheRoger
Well-Known Member
I haven't used wyeast since I started doing small batches, but the first thought that came to mind was to have a small mason jar with some starter wort in it and pitch what you need and put the rest in the jar and place the jar in the fridge until you need it again. Just make sure everything is sanitized very well.
Since there was some interest, I tasted the fermented maple syrup today. It doesn't taste bad, but I didn't get a hint of maple from it. It is possible that this is because it is very young and the strong alcohol flavor is overwhelming it.
I'm going to age some to be sure, but my first impression was watered vodka. Disappointing.
A simultaneous batch I was running was cranberry wine. Just ocean spray cranberry juice with some sugar to up the gravity. Nicely smooth, and a nice cranberry flavor. Pleasantly surprised this time. I expected this to go horribly sour with the sugar fermented out. If anything, the impression of the sour cranberry flavor has mellow a great deal.
It's still to young really, but I put a couple bottle away to age. It should be fantastic in a few months.
I'm going to age some to be sure, but my first impression was watered vodka. Disappointing.
A simultaneous batch I was running was cranberry wine. Just ocean spray cranberry juice with some sugar to up the gravity. Nicely smooth, and a nice cranberry flavor. Pleasantly surprised this time. I expected this to go horribly sour with the sugar fermented out. If anything, the impression of the sour cranberry flavor has mellow a great deal.
It's still to young really, but I put a couple bottle away to age. It should be fantastic in a few months.
Meh, it finished at 10.4% abv. I've made way stronger stuff.
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