Unboxing Colorado Brewing Systems new Single Vessel System

So I made the leap and bought the 20 gal system with 400 micron grain basket. Here are some pics and my impression. For the price point I am extremely pleased with the quality of the product. All welds are quality sanitary welds that will last a lifetime. Both the kettle and the grain basket are very well made. The 220v controller only controls the PID and not the pump but I already have a switch for my pump so no big deal for me. It comes with tri clamp fittings for all ports. You only need pump fittings. I assume the would all be included if you also bought a pump as part of the package. The heating element is all stainless so will be easy to clean. Can't wait to brew with it. Here are some pics.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1434682780.694794.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1434682793.660413.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1434682815.457456.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1434682828.942442.jpg

Man, that's a big boy. Looks good! Do you have any pictures of the basket inside? They various esetups are at a pretty sweet price.

I do agree that no fittings, switch on the pump is a bit odd; they took the add-on philosophy a bit literal. If I were them I'd think about adding $10 to the addon cost and providing that functionality.

Here's a pic with the basket in.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1434688581.057756.jpg

It's ok that even though I don't know you, I can hate you right now. Right?

Nice set up. Let us know how the first brew day goes.

Looks like a pretty slick package.

Will you be using something to aid in lifting the basket?

That's ok Ink, I understand.

Gameface, I will probably just hook a small carabiner up in my garage and use paracord to lift it.

One more thing I want to add. Customer service at Colorado Brewing Sytems is outstanding. Constant email updates as my system was fabricated, they asked for feedback and immediately responded to my feedback. You can't get any better than that! Thanks to Tim at Colorado Brewing..........

thats a pretty slick setup... I was checking them out a couple weeks ago, Their prices seem very reasonable.

man... more and more it makes me want to ditch my setup and save for one of those

+1 for Tim. I got cobrewing to fabricate a custom TC E-BK. Outstanding feedback throughout the process. Would buy from again.

Pretty

So after 3 brew days dialing the system in, I'm happier than ever with the system! I'm consistently getting 82-84% preboil efficiency! My total time for a brew day is coming down as I get used to the system and it's much cheaper than using propane.....

I too am the happy owner of the same system. The basket rocks! I went from a 3 vessel system to this and wonder why I ever brewed with 3 vessels. 5 stars

This looks like another great way to go! Affordable to. Good luck dialing in your new system!

John

Can the 20 gallon setup do 5 or 10 gallon batches? I am very tempted to go this route over building another 3 keggle single tier system on electric. Still need to do a lot of research, but COBS has been very helpful in the few emails I have sent with kettle questions.

I do 6 gal batches most of the time, which gives me a full 5 gal finished/carbed. Occasionally I do 12 gal bouble batch and split for fermentation. Both ways are equally easy/effective. Highly recommend this system.

Contemplating on this setup or going with a Brew-Boss controller & custom basket for my existing kettle.

I know this is not common with these kind of systems, but could it still do extract brews? Or would the dme pose a problem contacting the heating element. I am very new to AG and am not totally ready to walk away from extract as an option.

chinkson said:

I know this is not common with these kind of systems, but could it still do extract brews? Or would the dme pose a problem contacting the heating element. I am very new to AG and am not totally ready to walk away from extract as an option.

Click to expand...

I do not have any personal experience, so don't go off my word alone, but I have seen plenty of people with e-kettles and extract brews. There's some mentions here and there of turning off the element and stirring/dissolving well before kicking it back on, but not sure how required that is.

iijakii said:

I do not have any personal experience, so don't go off my word alone, but I have seen plenty of people with e-kettles and extract brews. There's some mentions here and there of turning off the element and stirring/dissolving well before kicking it back on, but not sure how required that is.

Click to expand...

If you dont mix it in with the element off I believe you are almost guaranteed to have scorching on the element. since the extract will caramelize onto the element almost instantly. Its not a difficult precaution to take.

rappell said:

So after 3 brew days dialing the system in, I'm happier than ever with the system! I'm consistently getting 82-84% preboil efficiency! My total time for a brew day is coming down as I get used to the system and it's much cheaper than using propane.....

Click to expand...

Thanks for providing the info on your efficiency. Is that for a 5 or 10g batch (or is there even a difference)?

I'm seriously considering the next model up that includes the stand. I'm having a hard time talking myself into going away from a 3 vessel system.

Any pics inside the kettle without the basket? I assume that top TC port is to recirculate, but wondering if that's for the boil since the basket would be in the way. Is there a valve there? Were your valves an upgrade? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get as much info as I can from owners

I'll have to take a pic. I asked for the butterfly valves instead of ball and Tim swapped it out. There are three TC ports in the bottom, temp probe, heating element and out flow. Top one is for recirculating like you figured so no valve.

Thank you for the updates along the way, I'm very close to pulling the trigger on one of these 15gal setups.

Are there any issues with mash in malt dust sitting on the element? Or does the strike water temp (helping dissolvability) plus the basket negate anything really being an issue? This is my only issue I'm worried about is scorching malt dust in an e-biab.

I haven't experienced that issue. You always get a little wort cooked onto the element but it cleans right off with oxyclean/tsp or pbw. No scorched flavors at all.

rappell said:

I haven't experienced that issue. You always get a little wort cooked onto the element but it cleans right off with oxyclean/tsp or pbw. No scorched flavors at all.

Click to expand...

same here, same system

rappell said:

I haven't experienced that issue. You always get a little wort cooked onto the element but it cleans right off with oxyclean/tsp or pbw. No scorched flavors at all.

Click to expand...

That would be carmelization (and scorching if it turns black ) This is why using an ULWD ripple element is preferred over the LDW system these come with. The light tan film is normal but it should wipe right off with a cloth or sponge with minimal effort I dont get any buildup on my 4500w element that doesnt wipe right off after brewing unless I did something wrong like turn off the element during a boil for a while and turn it back on without stirring things up first.

have any of you made any heavy beers in this system yet? if the element density was going to be an issues thats when you would see it.

Nice system! What's the grain capacity of the basket?

I've had 35lbs and still had some room. If you go on their web site and ask Tim he always responds within a day. Great folks to deal with....

Utah BioDiesel hop filter I assume or was that also from COBS?

Provided with the system, made by Utah Biodiesel

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'm strongly considering going this route (from two coolers and a kettle with propane burner). Any more pics you have would be very welcome.
Can you advise... how long does it take to reach mash temps, then boil temps, for a given typical volume?
Also, how are you chilling your wort? Is it possible to chill with an immersion chiller, with the element in there?

sburnt said:

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'm strongly considering going this route (from two coolers and a kettle with propane burner). Any more pics you have would be very welcome.
Can you advise... how long does it take to reach mash temps, then boil temps, for a given typical volume?
Also, how are you chilling your wort? Is it possible to chill with an immersion chiller, with the element in there?

Click to expand...

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow. For a 6.5 gal batch it takes about 15 min to get to mash temp and I get about a degree per 1.5 min rise with grain and pump running during a step mash. With grai/basket out takes about 8-10 min to reach full boil from 168 deg mashout. Am using a 5500 w stainless element @ 220v w/30 amp gfi outlet. With a 12 gal batch about half again longer. Hope this helps.

As for chilling, I use a plate chiller. I would be cautious about putting the a heavy chiller on top of the element.

rappell said:

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow. For a 6.5 gal batch it takes about 15 min to get to mash temp and I get about a degree per 1.5 min rise with grain and pump running during a step mash. With grai/basket out takes about 8-10 min to reach full boil from 168 deg mashout. Am using a 5500 w stainless element @ 220v w/30 amp gfi outlet. With a 12 gal batch about half again longer. Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Very helpful, thank you!

rappell said:

I've had 35lbs and still had some room. If you go on their web site and ask Tim he always responds within a day. Great folks to deal with....

Click to expand...

Do you use BeerSmith? I've been playing with recipes in BeerSmith to try and get a feel for what will scale to a 10g batch and still be possible with this system. I'm using the add-on for the Brew-Boss as a guideline. I was wondering if you had found another equipment profile more useful or accurate.

I do use BeerSmith, I made my own profiles. I didn't know there was a brew boss add on or I would have just used their profile. I made 2 profiles, a 6.5 and a 13. When I brew a double batch I ferment in 2 fermenters.

Time to stir up this thread as it's gone dormant lately.

Rappell I believe you've done quite a few brews with your Colorado system; what keeps me wondering though is how do you handle hop filtering?
Do you actually boil in the basket, or once you're done mashing, out goes the basket and you just proceed to boiling 'normal way'?

I'd say it'd be tempting to boil in a basket, too - if it could keep the hops away from clogging each and every pipe and pump.
Have you tried?
Please share your experience of using this brewery. Good quality steel and welding is a lot but still not everything. How does it actually feel in hand?

Also, those welding dots along the brim of the basket... have they turned rusty after a few months in use? Did you have to passivate them in any way?

Thanks.

rappell said:

I'll try to take some pics tomorrow. For a 6.5 gal batch it takes about 15 min to get to mash temp and I get about a degree per 1.5 min rise with grain and pump running during a step mash. With grai/basket out takes about 8-10 min to reach full boil from 168 deg mashout. Am using a 5500 w stainless element @ 220v w/30 amp gfi outlet. With a 12 gal batch about half again longer. Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Curious if you have a way to confirm an even temp increase of ALL the grain when step mashing... It seems that most of the wort would recirculate around the basket and not through the grain basket effectively taking the path of least resistance? this would be my biggest concern as mentioned before in another thread.

One way to easily test this (and disprove it) would be to put a waterproof temp probe in the center of the basket of grain to compare to the temps around it your already reading while step mashing.... With a bag this isnt a concern being that the liquid sees equal resistance through the grain bed (hence equal flow) with no easy way around it. I also believe this is why other systems like the brewmiester use a sleeve with solid walls to contain grain and push the liquid through evenly.

GQT said:

Time to stir up this thread as it's gone dormant lately.

Rappell I believe you've done quite a few brews with your Colorado system; what keeps me wondering though is how do you handle hop filtering?
Do you actually boil in the basket, or once you're done mashing, out goes the basket and you just proceed to boiling 'normal way'?

I'd say it'd be tempting to boil in a basket, too - if it could keep the hops away from clogging each and every pipe and pump.
Have you tried?
Please share your experience of using this brewery. Good quality steel and welding is a lot but still not everything. How does it actually feel in hand?

Also, those welding dots along the brim of the basket... have they turned rusty after a few months in use? Did you have to passivate them in any way?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

You would have to mount the element inside the basket or the liquid in the basket wouldnt boil...

I just use a stainless hop sider and a 30" long piece of stainless braided hose that attaches to my BK diptuube... I use a plate chiller and small DC pumps and have seen no evidence of hop trub in either this way with over 55 brew sessions now.