Wild Yeast and Carbonation Issues

Recently I accidentally infected a Pale Ale with wild yeast (due to poor sanitation of a fruit addition). Not a huge deal, lessons learned, didn't waste much time/money on it.

Around the same time I purchased a corny keg and kegerator set up but had to replace all of the beer and gas lines. My next brew wasn't going to be ready for a few weeks, so I figured I could use the infected batch to balance my keg.

Since then I have had TONS of issues, took to the forums to seek advice, and followed the steps pretty carefully. My initial issues were diagnosed as "overcarbed beer" and incorrect line ID and length. Since then I have, released all pressure from the keg, used the set/forget method to recarb, and attempted to balance my setup using some software (Currently I'm using approximately 4' of 3/16 ID tube in a standard sized mini fridge, 11-12 PSI, and a serving temp at around 38 degrees).

Unfortunately I am still pouring ALL foam but getting flat tasting beer. In addition, I recently opened one of the bottles from the same brew and I am getting an extremely carbonated beer, but with very little body. It was as if I was drinking beer flavored seltzer water from a bottle.

So my question: Have I still not perfected my keg setup, or is beer infected by wild yeast known to have these issues with carbonating?? Want to sort this out quick since I should be moving a double IPA to the keg over the weekend.

Thanks!

I think you still have problems with your setup. I use a similar setup (PSI and serving temp) but my lines are about 10' of 3/16". I'd try about 10' and see if that fixes the issue. Also, clean and sanitize the heck out of your lines. Sounds like you've introduced a pretty voracious wild yeast.

Thanks for the feedback.

I have a second tap that I will be using this weekend, so I'm not concerned about contaminating my next brew. Also, I bought tons of extra tubing so i can find the find balance for my setup. The previous owner of this kegerator had slightly less line than I am currently using and said it worked just fine.

Based on calculations I've been seeing, 10' seems a bit long for the ID length and setup I have going, but I'm willing to try anything!

My real concern is that I have read all about how wild yeast can create bottle-bombs but have seen very very little on forums about how it affects kegging. I don't want to waste my next (hopefully delicious) beer by pouring off gallons of foam!

Go higher than 10 feet. I'd say 15 feet. You can always cut down the lines easily but its a lot harder to lengthen them.

How are you bottling from the keg? If its just straight from the tap using a small; length of tubing, I wouldnt worry about infections. They wont stay fresh long enough to cause issues. Those bottles are essentially small growlers

Thanks for the keg setup feedback. I will be trying the start long and cut down progressively approach. It seems that the forums and calculators all give wildly different advice. I believe my current problem is one regarding temperature and line length (The foam/little of beer that pours is only coming out at about 45 degrees.

With regard to the initial question I asked, I have a new theory that I could use feedback on:

Since the beer was infected by wild yeast, it became over-attenuated. Over attenuated beer does not properly carbonate. I won't be able to use this batch to perfect the balance of my setup. All I am doing is wasting time and CO2.

Thoughts??

How is it that "over attenuated" beer does not properly carbonate? By over attenuated I assume you mean lower FG than expected.
Adding priming sugar as long as you have active yeast or carbonating with CO2 shouldn't be any different than any other beer.
mOOps has it right- longer lines are generally better, as long as you can keep them cold, so that the resistance in the lines prevents excessive head.
You might want to check the Bottling/kegging forum for more info: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35
There's a great sticky with FAQs.