Search results

I think I was getting bypass grains in the wort from the fact that I could only get the silicone gasket to stay in place about 1 tries out of ten. My working theory is that I was just on the wrong side of manufacturing tolerances, it was just too tight!

I finally bit the bullet and took the bottom plate to the mash bin in to a local machine shop to have it trimmed ever so slightly (a little over 1mm). The whole assembly now works like it was intended, without pulling the silicone gasket off the edge of the plate when I lowered it into position...

I went through all this 3 years ago. Eventually got the old boiler's plug loose from the failed Connect unit. Both boilers work!

... Well, after I provided the pictures and my impression that the pump was out of round from the factory, they got back to me, asking if I was "comfortable" swapping the defective pump out for the known good one on the boiler they already replaced. I let them off the hook, since they had...

So has anyone with an overheated Grainfather Connect managed to remove the welded boiler plug without cutting the cord? I've been thinking about heating the connections with a soldering iron or heat gun. I'd like to have a working boiler in reserve.

Here's what Grainfather said: Hi Steve, Thank you very much for your email and sorry to hear of the issues that you are experiencing. Can you please try the following to see if this helps: 1. Fill the Grainfather with water and turn the pump on for 5 seconds and off for 5 seconds. Repeat 4-5...

I got through the initial cleaning, as well the mash and boil before problems. I eventually got it started for cooling, but stopped again on the cleaning cycle. I had to empty by hand. I'll try a rinse tomorrow. Fortunately, I have my original boiler (with GF Connect v1 welded to the power cord)...

First batch with my replacement Grainfather (after failure of early model Gf Connect). Same mash issues as earlier, I need about 105 minutes to hit Gravity targets, maybe I need to stir more early in the mash? I think my LHBS may have their crusher set coarse. Pump wouldn't prime right away...

dupe post, sorry.

Well, I got my replacement Grainfather, after a Connect controller failure left my old boiler plug welded to the controller. I'm starting to wonder if I can salvage my old boiler (the breaker never tripped, so I think it's still good). Am I going to need a torch to get it off the old Connect...

Exactly what happened to me. It's like the boiler plug is now welded into the Connect receptacle. This is a known defect. Hopefully you're still under warranty. Contact Grainfather!

I spoke to GF and will get a replacement unit. Apparently this may be a known defect in early model Connect controllers. In the meanwhile, I'll find out whether 30 minutes is enough boil for a double IPA. :(

I did, after I drained it. I think the breaker may have failed because the button can't be pushed in. The burner scorched the mash, too. I noticed it was boiling a lot more vigorously than I have come to expect.

Looks like my boiler has given up the ghost at about the 8 month point, at about 40 minutes into a 90 minute boil. Connect controller looks fine, says it's heating at 100% but reading 204 F and falling... I'll let you all know how the warranty support goes.

Generally, I'm only able to cool down to about 80-85 during the summer using my Grainfather cooler. I might get it down to 75 degrees if I let it run full blast and recirculated the wort for an extra half an hour (wasting lots of water). I stick it in my spare refrigerator overnight to get to...

Last couple of brew sessions, I've run it with several inches of sparge gasket popped off the edge. The weight of the grain seems to seal it sufficiently.

I'm on my sixth or seventh batch in the Grainfather, mostly very pleased. I haven't had a stuck sparge, even though I often double crush at my LHBS. My largest grain bill was 19lbs for a Pliny the Younger clone. One remaining (and ongoing) issue is the continuing problem getting the silicone...

I'm using the Grainfather right now, but I'd like a 20 amp line. In fact, I was thinking of running 10 gauge-3 wire to my panel, leaving a conductor unused, but available if I want to upgrade to a 240V system (Breweasy, maybe?) Anyone see any problems with that approach? Steve