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Conditioning in the cubetainers might work well...however, carbing and conditioning in a keg at low levels might get a REALLY creamy head going for stouts and such (thinking guiness clone sans nitro setup) since it releases a large portion of the dissolved gas when served. I would be curious...

Thats pretty damn cool, Are those just the collapsible water jugs filled from already carbonated kegs? What is it that you are using for the aerator piece where it pours into the glass?

Count me in! Purdy lookin gear.

This is great...I might try a variation and hoot it up to my HERMS system and ditch the mash tun for some of my brews!

This is great...I might try a variation and hoot it up to my HERMS system and ditch the mash tun for some of my brews!

Looking to trade an almost new (used twice so far) 3"x12" 30 plate chiller for a chillzilla or similar convoluted counterflow chiller. This thing is super efficient, but as I whirlpool with the chiller inline, I have worries about trub/hops getting clogged up during a brew sessions. I'm...

Ideally, you would solder it to the threaded lug that is welded to the kettle for the best grount, but since the tri clamps and all the pieces are conductive, even soldering or screwing to the back cover plate where the cord comes out should work. Justclamp everything up with the seals in place...

I guess the only thing to worry about if something 'fermented' (fermentation actually stopped long ago...its just conditioning in the same vessel now to be technically correct) for a long time is yeast flocculation. If you have a highly flocculent yeast and it is almost all settled out, you...

As long as it was kept at a proper temperature you shouldnt worry too much. I've done 8 week primary ferments with no secondary and things came out just fine. I know that theres alot of talk and argument about yeast autolysis(sp?) but I think it only becomes a big issue with huge conical...

Correct, the temp controller only allows the motor to cycle on for long enough to keep it at the set temp...some also use a temp control that will provide power to a heater as well. For a heat source you can use a light bulb (the incandesant kind that are apparently going away) or a fermenter...

This has the be the best/most nerdy explanation I could have hoped for then the lead 'pellets' were asked about. This makes my day. Now...time to leave work a bit early and go have a pint.

No, the Camco ripple elements are a proprietary nickel-something plating that has a black/gray color. Lowes has stainless elements in their water heater section...no ripple ULWD ones, but regular foldback LWD. To be honest, I have both the camco 5500W ripple and a 5500W stainless foldback, and...

If direct mounting to the kettle isnt to your liking, look in the electrical/plumbing area of the hardware store for some pipe straps that fit the pump around the motor housing. They would be the easiest way to mount to a wood stand

Those pumps look small enough to mount directly to the bulkhead of your kettle. I've thrown arou d the idea of mounting one directly to the bottom drain and putting the ball valve after it on my HLT.

The fact that they are completely sealed is nice...no neeed for a splash shield. They do indeed look like the gtreatbreweh pumps but without the stainless npt threads...the control board is likely just 120 to 12 v converter with the potentiometer, and should be easy to hack. I'm interested if...

Count me in...zee brewery can always use some shiny new bits!

Although it doesnt mention it, it may be magnetically coupled...One of the reviewers emntioned using a ball valve for flow control. If it was directly coupled, it probably would have burned up pretty quick with a valve on there. Heres another inexpensive option some people have talked alot...

You SHOULD use a heatsink of some sort on the SSR. It may be able to operate without it, as you will only be pulling about 12.5A(50% rated capacity)but its lifespan will be diminished if running at elevated temperatures for any period of time. Even something as simple a mounting it to a metal...

Thats looks like a good idea, and I think you're right about it being easier to make it for less. Here is the Yakima setup for a 2" reviever: http://compare.ebay.com/like/281058917962?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Honestly though, the Hitch bolts are only like $9, and if you...

If it is properly welded, yes...you could probably drive a bus over 12ga 2" stainless. If it is just the stand and burner, it'll be no problem at all. I would however put the hitch point lower by the wheels. The way you have it right now puts the casters way down below the hitch...any steep...