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I agree for the most part, but this is HIGHLY dependant on your water source: I would guess that the majority of places in the US would actually benefit from some sort of filtration; if you have a municipal water source, then you almost *definately* would benefit from a carbon filter...

the time it takes to heat X-amount of liquid (and thus, the 'recommended amount' of power) depends on the wattage of the heater, and the size of the brew. If you were brewing 1 ounce of beer at a time, a 50 watt induction coil would be more than you would ever need... :p But, you didnt define...

I use a cheap DIY '2-stage' filter for brewing. The first stage is a 5-10 micron sediment filter, and the second is a 0.5micron nominal carbon block filter for chlorine and chemicals. true, carbon wont remove minerals, but it will still absorb a huge amount of trace chemicals or pesticides in...

that programming logic itself is possible, but physically, the controler might not be able to switch both a high power cooler and high power chiller. however if you controlled the on/off of the devices with a discreet relay/SSR, the Johnson unit could take over handling the relay/SSR's control...

+1 the confusion in this thread stems from a confusion between measuring "mass" itself, and measuring "mass-per-unit-of-area". "Pounds" is a measure of mass. "Pounds per square inch" is a measure of mass-per-area. (see my post here)

pressure is dependent on the amount (mass/relative weight/'pounds') of gas present, and the size/volume of the container it is in, yes. However, since the unit of measure is not sheer weight (simple 'pounds'), but PSI (pounds per square inch), the spatial/volumetric parts of the math formula...

CO2, and the amount used, certainly imparts its own flavor profile into a beer. too much and the sting/bite of the gas can certainly overpower other flavors in the beer. its good that you found the cause however there are a few misconceptions in your logic i will point out for others... its...

the head pressure will increase inside the keg, but so long as its sealed, that extra escaped gas will reenter the beer when it gets chilled again, so, no lost gas (unless you have a leak; remember that increased pressures will cause existing leaks to increase in size/rate).

I wasnt able to find it either, but the only force that would have an effect on direction of a whirlpool as described would be the Coriolis effect, as mentioned. It has quite a noticable effect on the 1-2 gallons in my toilet, so I would imagine it would have a non-zero effect on similar...

just keep in mind the difference between accuracy and precision three probes reading similar readings should lead you to believe that they are *precise* ...but, you dont have enough info to make a determination about accuracy. :mug: the specs of the arduino are less important than the temp...

a dual-channel peristaltic pump with a shared stepper motor to drive it would ensure that for every ounce of wort coming out the bottom, an ounce of water is replaced at the top of the grain bed... controlling the speed of the motor controls the speed of the lauter directly. easy and simple; no...

I suggest reading extensively over on probrewer.com forums but to address a few of your questions... a "15bbl brewery" (meaning fifteen "barrels"; 1bbl = 117.35 liters; ~31 gallons) is generally referring to the amount of beer you can brew in one single production run on the equipment...

Peltiers are one of the least efficient methods of cooling, per unit of energy input. That being said, if electricity is freely available, then it should work. You should understand that putting nine 60w-max-rated modules together does NOT get you 540 watts of cooling power. Some advice from...

there is no real reason, other than "I want to", to use two sanitizers back to back like that. you are just wasting chemicals. I would eliminate chlorine from the brewery as much as possible. I would bet I could pick out a beer fermented in a chlorine-soaked plastic conical, vs an otherwise...

I wouldn't suggest baking at all, especially if your plate chiller has soft parts (plastic or rubber seals, etc). Baking would almost ensure that anything left inside dries on and never comes out. If you want to sterilize, pump or dump boiling water thru it. If you use water to chill your boil...

I didnt read all the other thread pages, but if it hasnt been mentioned before- dont kill yourself over assumptions. standard shipping barrels, stainless or otherwise, should never be pressurized. 10-20 PSI over dozens of square feet of surface area is a huge amount of energy that regular...

without knowing the size, uline.com sells all sorts of plastic bottles and pieces. I know you can buy a bag of regular-size 2-Liter soda bottle caps from them (if that is what you are after).

The first thing you should do is spend some time reading about the process of brewing root beer, and actual 'real' beer. I think you may be getting confused by the word "beer" in Root Beer; Root Beer is a 'soda', not a 'beer'. The questions you are asking are /so/ basic that they suggest you...

picnic taps were never meant to be a continuous-use, highly-reliable product. By design, the little spring inside is the only thing preventing beer from escaping. Turn up the pressure too much, and the spring gets overwhelmed all on its own (no positive-closed, fail-safe features here). the...

the sulphur molecule in metabisulphite will combine with any present methyl alcohol molecules (methyl alcohol is usually produced along with ethanol in very trace amounts), to produce dimethyl sulfide (DMS), which is a very undesirable flavor in most beer styles. in general, you never want to...