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So I'd say it was a worthy investment. In my opinion, the water tastes much better out of the filter, and considering the filters last for 3 months of an entire household use, I think I'll get my milage out of it. Let me know if you have questions.

Teflon tape and hand tight connections were all that were necessary. Here is the ball valve. Here is the barb fitting. My silicone hose slips on and is clamped with some SS hose clamps. As you can see here, the brew kettle fills from the bottom up. Pretty slick.

So I've been less than 100% happy with some of my brews lately, and I've begun to systematically tune my system in order to take my beer from "good" to "great." Before brewing today, I tasted my water. I have a white potable water hose connected to a sink in the adjoining room that I run to the...

Hard to beat an ice cold MGD on a hot day

This. Is. Awesome. Subscribed! :mig:

I would assume it's ounces by weight. Otherwise it *should* say fluid ounces (fl. oz.) Can you change units in beersmith? If so, change it to grams or mL and use those unambiguous units ;)

My bad... I though OP was talking about an immersion chiller.... :tank:

Are you doing partial boils or full boils? If you are just doing partial boils and using water to top off to your final volume, and doing 5 gallon batches (this I'm assuming). Then you are most likely only chilling 2.5-ish gallons of wort. For this 20 should be OK. However, if you ever plan to...

I think you can use twist-off bottles, but you need a bench capper, not a two-handled one that most beer kits come with

Functionally, no. They both do the same. When I got into kegging, I found a better deal with a bunch of ball locks, thus I went with them. If the reverse was true, I'd be a pin lock guy. FWIW, there is a pressure release valve on ball lock kegs, I'm pretty sure it doesn't exist with pin...

Typically low abv beers that are easy to drink... so you can have several beers within a given session, yet still drive home...

I think if you want either a tower/coffin/collar with taps like most keezers around here, that looks like a tough conversion due to the sliding glass doors. If you just want to use the cobra taps, it'd be perfect. Also +1 for the fermentation chamber. For $25, you can't go wrong either way :mug:

I'm pretty sure I've seen someone else on this forum do this in their basement bar build... Pretty sweet, especially for a brewery/bar type of build Also, let the Miller Lite & Piss jokes begin!

I think that you'd be ok to just leave them as-is... especially since you are going to fill it up in a couple of days.

+1 on Oxyclean and some hot/warm water. After an hour or so the labels slide right off. I use a green scotch brite pad (or w/e it's called) after the soak and it works wonders.

One of my favorite beers of all time is Boulevard's Double-Wide IPA... It comes in a 750 mL wine bottle with a cork and a cage. I would assume that the wine bottles could withstand homebrew carb pressure, but I don't think i'd risk it without a cage on the cork.

He definitely changed the world. Thanks for your innovative genius Steve. - Sent from my Mac

Depending on his setup (gas/electric, pumps/gravity fed/ etc...), a nicely laid out brew stand/table would be point 1 for me. Well organized storage would also be good. Depending on the climate where you live, a temp-controlled fermentation chamber would be almost necessary if he is planning to...

I dry hop with pellets all the time. What I do is just throw them in the fermenter. If you really want to use a bag, a quick dunk in starsan or boiling would be just fine.

Two things... 1.) Nebraska will beat Wisconsin tomorrow. GBR! 2.) Green Bay will be 4-0 come Sunday evening. Bonus... 3.) I will be 4-0 in fantasy football come Monday night. Have a good weekend everyone! :mug: