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I'm going to say that your problem is under-pitching. A packet / vial of yeast would be good enough for a 1.050 beer, but you'd need to double up for something as big as a 1.070 beer. It has to do with attenuation.

No, they just go in the tun.

24 hours without pitching is quite a risk. Remember that there is a lag time of ~24 hours even after you pitch. The best defence wort has against contamination is inoculation :) Seriously, chill and pitch as quickly as possible.

It should be fine if it's strong enough. The benefit of the dome is the added strength against the pressure of the mash. Is it flimsy?

I've taken to using rice hulls in all my beers regardless of style. It helps with the speed of the sparge if nothing else. I use 250g for 20L and 500g for 40L brews. I use Beersmith to work out the difference in the strike water, but if you don't use that software, just soak the rice hulls...

You're talking about no-sparge brewing. Totally valid, but more expensive. Hops utilization would be a bit lower, but you can compensate for that. I say go for it. Worst that can happen is you end up with beer :)

I only really noticed that when brewing really light, clean beers like pilsners or blondes with little hops to cover up the DMS. The aroma hops was the primary reason for the change.

I've been using a CFC for a year now, and it's been working ok, but I wanted a way to chill my wort to below 120F as quickly as possible. A CFC was chilling 10 gallons of wort to pitching temps in about 20 minutes, but the wort sat in the kettle at boiling temps that whole time creating DMS and...

There are lots of formulas on the internet for this, but your best bet is to start with a long line, and keep chopping off 6" at a time until you get a good pour...about a pint in 8 seconds.

Foam happens for a couple of reasons. 1. Over carbonation. If you have over-carbonated beer, there's not a really quick way to deal with it. Take the keg off the gas, and bleed the pressure out of it every few hours. Your pressure is something you shouldn't adjust, or you adjust the amount of...

I say STAY AWAY FROM THESE PUMPS! I recently got one of the stainless steel versions, and the input fitting was an NTP fitting, and the output was a BSP fitting...I think. In any case I could only thread my stainless steel quick disconnects onto one side, and only half way. They were not...

Well, I get decent water pressure in my house. It's just that after water going through 12' of hose to get to the CFC, and then through that 25' of fairly obstructed hose, the output is pretty slow. I think maybe a pump before the chiller would help raise the pressure in the hose, and...

I wonder if there is a simple solution to the low flow rate...A march pump between the faucet and the CFC perhaps?

My CFC is 3/8 OD copper inside 5/8 ID garden hose. What I'm trying to determine is what I should be expecting from my CFC. I've read that many people have to restrict the flow of water to avoid over-chilling the wort. Since my ground water is pretty cold, is my problem simply a matter of cold...

Shouldn't I be able to chill the wort closer to the input water temperature though?

I've been using my 25' CFC for a few months now, and it's doing what I need it to do for now. Right now it's gravity fed, and with my water temperature being about 48F, I chill the wort down to about 68F. I'm wondering if I should be getting colder wort in the end. I have the water faucet...

Hi all, I misjudged by pipeline. I primed 3 kegs with dextrose on Sunday, and since then I kicked 2 kegs! I want to charge at least one of them before the weekend using CO2, but I want to make sure the 1/3 cup of priming sugar I put in each keg is fermented first. The temperature of the beer...

That's probably a good idea.

I'm getting ready to brew an IIPA that calls for a full pound of pellet hops. I'm using a 5 gallons paint strainer bag on my hop spider, and I'm wondering if I'm going to have any issues in my keggle. Is this too much hop matter?

You can do this, but you'd want to leave the keg hooked up until the CO2 has fully saturated the beer before storing.