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Any one who makes beer did not for any reason need the check the SG of that beer to see if the yeast was going. That photo is 100% all you need. It is actually almost done looks like the yeast is starting to slow. 1 to 1.5 weeks and you are ready to let or bottle. I stand by what I said...

We can agree to disagree on this one. I would rather not touch the beer or wort if I don't have to. I like to use a glass carboy, because I can see what is going on. I like using a 1 piece bubbler, because you can see if there is pressure in the fermenter. Pending temperature fluctuations, the...

Ok do your test, but it is irrelevant if you don't have krauzen on an ale. It is obvious if you have populations of yeast propagating. You can not accidentally have fermentation, in a hefe with that yeast, IT WILL BE MUNCHING SUGAR LIKE MAD. If you keep dipping into sugary unfermented wort and...

Ok do your test, but it is irrelevant if you don't have krauzen on an ale. It is obvious if you have populations of yeast propagating. You can not accidentally have fermentation, in a hefe with that yeast, IT WILL BE MUNCHING SUGAR LIKE MAD. If you keep dipping into sugary unfermented wort...

I second this, it should be going crazy blowing off the top.

If it really has been 4 days, you could be out of luck. Your best bet is to get some danstar Munich and cross your fingers. Do you have a local store you can get yeast at quickly? 1) have you checked you SG, is it dropping? 2) did you get something in your fermenter that would kill the...

That is a really good point. I wasn't being a very accurate brewer before hand and didn't calculate out how much water I needed, just eyeballed it in HLT. I had to stop the sparg and reload HLT and heat up. Added 20 mins to sparg time. I was heating up wort too as drawing off, it was at 180+, so...

I use BeerAlchemy on my iphone and mac. Yes the corrected value from 1.073 SG start and 6.8 brix was 0.999 SG.

BTW, using WLP 550. Pitched low, one vial in each fermenter. No time to make started that brew day.

I made a Belgian blond that is just at the end of conditioning phase. Started at 1.073 SG and is at 6.8 brix right now. Putting that in my software that is 0.999 FG. WTF I haven't run into this before, I 100% use a refractometer after I broke my hydrometer this winter. It there a way to...

Local steel shop, just look in Yellow pages and find a local shop. Not worth it to order, steel is heavy.

Did you use O2?

The extra hour will not do much, it can be tricky keeping the temp up. I would guess your temp dropped over that time. It will have probably increase your efficiency and increased your attenuation, but only slightly. Take a look at an old school triple decoction...they take 3+ hours. I...

I get similar results from S-04 too, takes a little longer to get started and doesn't floculate as well. I like 002 more because the beer clears really fast. I have been using pure O2 as well. I am going to take the suggestion on my next brown porter, big fan favorite, at 1.009 not as good.

I have been using a lot of the wyeast equivalent and get a consistently high 75% average. Has messed up a few beer because the mild I was making has no body at all. Mild 1.039 - 1.010(71%), English blond, 1.049 to 1.011(77%). Fullers 1845, 1.063 to 1.016(73%), ESB 1.051 to 1.010(79%), brown...

I can get a little control, but not much. Run top two at same level and warm up sparge at same time as strike water in mash tun. After start sparge, don't use mash burner and only heat wort in kettle and maintain sparge temp. Not ideal, if I was going to add more control with needle valve after...

Oh yeah, didn't totally answer your question... I have one regulator, but it is adjustable. I also added a pressure gauge to monitor. Not a big deal to adjust the pressure, only need higher initially to bring up to strike temps and sparge water, then lower for mash, adjust for mash...

It is the oriface, air mixture and the pressure, line diameter doesn't matter if you are talking 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 pipe.

Ha, that is my brother, he did all the welding too...with his tongue. :rockin:

They are the bayou classic, same ones that come on the SQ14...they call it the "High Pressure Cast Iron Fry Burner". The other one is the "High pressure Cast Iron Burner"...but actually mine specifically is disassembled from a SP10, which was also cut up to make the wind screen. In regards...