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Oh man, I'd chalk this batch up to a loss, but you ought to check out one of the basic homebrewing books before you take on your next batch! And go back to extract before making the leap into all-grain. Good luck!

Did you put any hops in?

Did you not boil the wort at all? /edit/ OCBrewin got to it first

I brewed this using 14 lbs of Maris Otter, and WLP007, and otherwise keeping the recipe the same. I went through it pretty fast; this can definitely be brewed as a double pumpkin ale.:cross:

You could thrown some new yeast in the keg, once it's warmed up, but it seems like too much of a hassle to drop a few more points. If it tastes good, roll with it. I've got a RyePA that stalled out at 1.032...now there's a beer that needs to dry out. But I've made several beers in the 20-22...

I'm pretty sure I've had that one as well, but the stronger version of these beers might be more tolerable because they are huge on malt and alcohol, and the pumpkin and spices are just lingering there in the background.

Would you increase all the malt proportionately, or just the base malt? I'm going with Maris Otter, and for a 1.080 beer, 11 gallon batch @ 75%eff, I've got 27.5# of base malt! The color still seems to be close to what you have though. I just had the Shipyard Smashed Pumpkin over the...

What were you going to do to the spices for an imperial version? I was thinking of making this with an OG of 1.075 or so, and using WY1968, but I don't know if the alcohol and malt increase will dwarf the spices.

I think the grains are smaller than I'm used to; next time I'll tighten up my mill. I still can't believe the drop in efficiency.

Is anyone having efficiency/extraction issues with their recently purchased CMC grain? My numbers used to be 80%, now with the CMC I'm getting 60s or lower. Let me know if it is just me or if I should look for other issues in my system.

Great deal...I'm in for 250#.

We should open it up now, maybe late October delivery?

Me too! I'm in for a few hundred lbs.

Make sure to seal your keg with CO2 before letting it sit; it might not seal without a little shot of CO2 first. I tried to naturally carb, without hitting it with CO2, and after 3 weeks it was flat, as it didn't seal properly.

I just had a beer go from 1.05 to 1.004 with a reused WLP001 with a starter. It tastes good in the secondary, but I guess it's not exactly to style (I was going for a Pale Ale, and they are supposed to finish at 1.01). But if it tastes good, then no worries...

Just don't order a "yard" - it comes in a 32 oz glass shaped like those long ones you see in Vegas. So when you're halfway done, it hits you in the face. Just buy two pints, you'll be happier, if you like to sip, and not wear, your beer.

This thread is back from the dead... But on the subject of leaks, I went thru a CO2 tank in about 3 weeks, without much use. So I just went thru my setup and realized that my manifolds are leaking, some slow, others not. So these leaks can appear anywhere. The best was to find them is to...

You'll probably have to wait more like 2-3 weeks to get carbed, but yes, once it's primed, you're good to go. The first pint might be full of yeast, don't worry, the next pint will be more or less clear.

Do you mean you unscrewed the charger from the quick disconnect, or took it off the corny keg? You should be able to take it off the keg, but leave it attached to the quick disconnect (that gray thing that you attach to the keg) without any problems. If you unscrewed it from the quick...

Those portable chargers only give gas when you hit the trigger, so you can leave it on the keg, or take it off, it doesn't matter.