Ok, It was only a matter of time. But I went and left 4 cups of diluted starsan in the bottom of the fermentation bucket, an proceeded to pour 5 gallon of 1.103 Belgian dark strong on top. I've looked at other threads but I'm looking for some reassurance on this one that I haven't screwed the...
I don't have time to find the link, but it's my understanding that cold break (trub), has natural yeast nutrients; hence a faster fermentation in the "dirty" wort.
Yooper, not to turn this into a pond maintenance thread, but I have a pond of similar size. I used to remove all the fish to a winter tank as well, until I found a "trough heater" at the local farm supply store. In winter I turn it on for a few hours a day just to create a hole in the ice for...
What is the the og of the stout? What are the adjuncts and at what quantities? Sometimes you can develop plenty of bitterness through roasty and toasty grains to compensate for hop bitterness. I often back off on my hops for my stouts because roasted barley adds plenty of sharpness. To answer...
Hi Mike, my standard procedure is to gently heat (not boil) a half gallon of juice to dissolve the brown sugar and thaw the concentrate, then add that to the fermenter with the remaining juice, then pitch yeast.
I've made this cider at least a dozen times with perfect clarity:
5 gal store bought juice (absorbic acid preserved)
1lb light brown sugar
s-04 yeast (or whatever ale yeast slurry is handy)
a bit of apple flavoring...usually 1/3 of a bottle
Ferment to 1.006 or so....rack to keg with...
Consider the evaporation rate of your wort sample at cold temps. A small sample in cold and dry air will evaporate at a rapid rate, giving you an innacurate reading. I collect a small sample in a small jar or glass, cover with a piece of plastic wrap to control evaporation, and bring in the...
I had the same problem as the OP with a brand new picnic tap. I replaced it and it worked fine. I assume I just got one that was faulty. Try another one and see if that works.
Let the beer ferment out. 1335 should go fast and floc tight. Dump a little bit of yeast and trub. Collect the middle creamy layer and pitch direct (that's the healthiest yeast), and discard the last bit of yeast (it's the least flocculant and most likely the most stressed yeast).
I would consider dropping the cara-pils from the recipe. It will add body that a big IPA really doesn't need....let the hops be the focal point. The crystal malt will add all the complexity and head retention this beer needs.
I've partigyled twice (barley wine/ special bitter). My experience is that roughly 2/3rds of your gravity will come during the first runnings. I fly sparge however, and am not sure if this holds true for batch sparge.
I calculate for 80% efficiency total, and the first runnings yeild 55% eff...
I've gone back and forth on this issue. I initially loved the plate chiller for it's efficiency and compact size. I used whirlfloc and whirpooled, and had virtually sediment free wort run through the chiller. It never clogged, but some hop bits would go through. I rinsed back and forth for...
perhaps you shocked the yeast if it went from fridge to 68 degree wort. I wouldn't start to panic just yet, it will recover. And to echo Jlem, you don't need break material.
you've got 7lbs of specialty malts and your mash temp is rather high for a high gravity belgian. I agree it needs more time, but I wouldn't expect your gravity to go very low. That recipe will leave quite a bit of unfermentables. You may want to add some basic table or corn sugar (about a pound)...